Mormon Settlement 



IN ARIZONA 



A RECORD OF PEACEFUL CONQUEST 
OF THE DESERT 



BY 

JAMES H. McCLINTOCK 

ARIZONA HISTORIAN 




PHOENIX, ARIZONA 
1921 



Fin 

Mi 2^ 



COPYRIGHT 1921 

BY 

JAS. H. McCLINTOCK 

ARIZONA HISTORIAN 



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;" 



PRINTING AND BINDING BY 

THE MANUFACTURING STATIONERS INC., PHOENIX 

ILLUSTRATIONS BY PHOENIX ENGRAVING COMPANY, PHOENIX 

MAPS BY JAS. M. BARNEY, PHOENIX 

ART WORK BY DAVID SWING, PHOENIX 



jUN 2U #21 

©Ci.A6i.7394 



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FOREWORD 



j-o 



This publication, covering a field of southwestern in- 
terest hitherto un worked, has had material assistance from 
Governor Thos. E. Campbell, himself a student of Arizona 
history, especially concerned in matters of development. 
There has been hearty cooperation on the part of the 
Historian of the Mormon Church, in Salt Lake City, and 
the immense resources of his office have been offered freely 
and have been drawn upon often for verification of data, 
especially covering the earlier periods. There should be 
personal mention of the late A. H. Lund, Church Historian, 
and of his assistant, Andrew Jenson, and of Church Libra- 
rian A. Wm. Lund, who have responded cheerfully to all 
queries from the Author. There has been appreciated 
interest in the work by Heber J. Grant, President of the 
Church, and by many pioneers and their descendants. 

The Mormon Church maintains a marvelous record of 
its Church history and of its membership. The latter 
record is considered of the largest value, carrying out the 
study of family genealogy that attaches so closely to the 
theology of the denomination. During the fall of 1919, 
Andrew Jenson of the Church Historian's office, started 
checking and correcting the official data covering Arizona 
and New Mexico settlements. This involved a trip that 
included almost every village and district of this State. 
Mr. Jenson was accompanied by LeRoi C. Snow, Secretary 
to the Arizona State Historian and a historical student 
whose heart and faithful effort have been in the work. Many 
corrections were made and many additions were secured 
at first hand, from pioneers of the various settlements. 
At least 2000 letters have had to be written by this office. 
The data was put into shape and carefully compiled by 
Mr. Snow, whose service has been of the largest value. 
As a result, in the office of the Arizona State Historian 
now is an immense quantity of typewritten matter that 



in 



covers most fully the personal features of Mormon settle- 
ment and development in the Southwest. This has had 
careful indexing. 

Accumulation of data was begun the last few months 
of the lifetime of Thomas E. Farish, who had been State 
Historian since Arizona's assumption of statehood in 1912. 
Upon his regretted passing, in October of 1919, the task of 
compilation and writing and of possible publication dropped 
upon the shoulders of his successor. The latter has found 
the task one of most interesting sort and hopes that the 
resultant book contains matter of value to the student of 
history who may specialize on the Southwest. By no 
means has the work been compiled with desire to make it 
especially acceptable to the people of whom it particularly 
treats — save insomuch as it shall cover truthfully their 
migrations and their work of development. With inten- 
tion, there has been omitted reference to their religious 
beliefs and to the trials that, in the earlier days, attended 
the attempted exercise of such beliefs. 

Naturally, there has had to be condensation of the mass 
of data collected by this office. Much of biographical in- 
terest has had to be omitted. To as large an extent as 
possible, there has been verification from outside sources. 

Much of the material presented now is printed for the 
first time. This notably is true in regard to the settlement 
of the Muddy, the southern point of Nevada, which in 
early political times was a part of Arizona Territory and 
hence comes within this work's purview. There has been 
inclusion of the march of the Mormon Battalion and of the 
Calif ornian, New Mexican and Mexican settlements, as 
affecting the major features of Arizona's agricultural 
settlement and as contributing to a more concrete grasp of 
the idea that drove the Mormon pioneers far afield from 
the relative comfort of their Church centers. 

JAS. H. McCLINTOCK, 
Arizona State Historian. 

Phoenix, Arizona, May 31, 1921. 



IV 



SUMMARY OF SUBJECTS 



Chapter One 
WILDERNESS BREAKERS— Mormon Colonization in the West, 1; 
Pioneers in Agriculture, 2; First Farmers in Many States, 4; The 
Wilderness Has Been Kept Broken, 6. 

Chapter Two 
THE MORMON BATTALION— Soldiers Who Sought No Strife, 7; 
California Was the Goal, 8; Organization of the Battalion, 10; 
Cooke Succeeds to the Command, 11; The March Through the 
Southwest, 12; Capture of the Pueblo of Tucson, 13; Congratula- 
tion on Its Achievement, 15; Mapping the Way Through Arizona, 
16; Manufactures of the Arizona Indians, 18; Cooke's Story of 
the March, 18; Tyler's Record of the Expedition, 19; Henry 
Standage's Personal Journal, 20; California Towns and Soldier 
Experiences, 22; Christopher Layton's Soldiering, 24; Western 
Dash of the Kearny Dragoons, 25. 

Chapter Three 
THE BATTALION'S MUSTER-OUT— Heading Eastward Toward 
"Home," 27; With the Pueblo Detachment, 29; California Com- 
ments on the Battalion, 31; Leaders of the Battalion, 32; Passing 
of the Battalion Membership, 34; A Memorial of Noble Con- 
ception, 34; Battalion Men Who Became Arizonans, 35T '"" 

Chapter Four 
CALIFORNIA'S MORMON PILGRIMS— The Brooklyn Party at 
San Francisco, 38; Beginnings of a Great City, 39; Brannan's 
Hope of Pacific Empire, 41; Present at the Discovery of Gold, 43; 
Looking Toward Southern California, 44; Forced From the South- 
land, 45; How Sirrine Saved the Gold, 46. 

Chapter Five 
THE t r STATE OF DESERET— A Vast Intermountain Commonwealth, 
48; Boundary Lines Established, 49; Segregation of the Western 
Territories, 50; Map of State of Deseret, 51. 



Chapter Six 

EARLY ROADS AND TRAVELERS— Old Spanish Trail Through 
Utah, 53; Creation of the Mormon Road, 54; Mormon Settlement 
at Tubac, 56; A Texan Settlement of the Faith, 57. 

Chapter Seven 

MISSIONARY PIONEERING— Hamblin, "Leatherstocking of the 
Southwest," 59; Aboriginal Diversions, 60; Encounter with Federal 
Explorers, 62; The Hopi and the Welsh Legend, 63; Indians Await 
Their Prophets, 65; Navajo Killing of Geo. A. Smith, Jr., 66; 
A Seeking of Baptism for Gain, 67; The First Tour Around the 
Grand Canyon, 67; A Visit to the Hava-Supai Indians, 69; Experi- 
ences with the Redskins, 70; Killing of Whitmore and Mclntire, 72. 

Chapter Eight 

HAMBLIN AMONG THE INDIANS— Visiting the Paiutes with 
Powell, 74; A Great Conference with the Navajo, 76; An Official 
Record of the Council, 78; Navajos to Keep South of the River, 
79; Tuba's Visit to the White Men, 80; The Sacred Stone of the 
Hopi, 81; In the Land of the Navajo, 82; Hamblin's Greatest 
Experience, 84; The Old Scout's Later Years, 86. 

Chapter Nine 
CROSSING THE MIGHTY COLORADO— Early Use of "El Vado 
de Los Padres," 89; Ferrying at the Paria Mouth, 90; John D. 
Lee on the Colorado, 91; Lee's Canyon Residence Was Brief, 93; 
Crossing the Colorado on the Ice, 94; Crossings Below the Grand 
Canyon, 96; Settlements North of the Canyon, 97; Arizona's First 
Telegraph Station, 98; Arizona's Northernmost Village, 99. 

Chapter Ten 
ARIZONA'S PIONEER NORTHWEST— History of the Southern 
Nevada Point, 101; Map of Pah-ute County, 103; Missionaries of 
the Desert, 104; Diplomatic Dealings with the Redskins, 106; 
Near Approaches to Indian Warfare, 108; Utilization of the Colo- 
rado River, 110; Steamboats on the Shallow Stream, 111; Estab- 
lishing a River Port, 113. 

Chapter Eleven 

IN THE VIRGIN AND MUDDY VALLEYS— First Agriculture in 

Northern Arizona, 117; Villages of Pioneer Days, 118; Brigham 

Young Makes Inspection, 120; Nevada Assumes Jurisdiction, 121; 

The Nevada Point Abandoned, 121; Political Organization Within 



v% 



Arizona, 123; Pah-ute's Political Vicissitudes, 124; Later Settle- 
ment in "The Point," 126; Salt Mountains of the Virgin, 127; 
Peaceful Frontier Communities, 128. 

Chapter Tioehe 

THE UNITED ORDER— Development of a Communal System, 130; 
Not a General Church Movement, 132; Mormon Cooperative 
Stores, 133. 

Chapter Thirteen 

SPREADING INTO NORTHERN ARIZONA— Failure of the First 
Expeditions, 135; Missionary Scouts in Northeastern Arizona, 
137; Foundation of Four Settlements, 138; Northeastern Arizona 
Map, 139; Genesis of St. Joseph, 140; Struggling with a Treacherous 
River, 141; Decline and Fall of Sunset, 142; Village Communal 
Organization, 144; Hospitality Was of Generous Sort, 145; Brig- 
ham City's Varied Industries, 145; Brief Lives of Obed and Taylor, 
147. 

Chapter Fourteen 

TRAVEL, MISSIONS AND INDUSTRIES— Passing of the Boston 
Party, 149; At the Naming of Flagstaff, 150; Southern Saints 
Brought Smallpox, 151; Fort Moroni, at LeRoux Spring, 152; 
Stockaded Against the Indians, 153; Mormon Dairy and the 
Mount Trumbull Mill, 154; Where Salt Was Secured, 156; The 
Mission Post of Moen Copie, 157; Indians Who Knew Whose Ox 
Was Gored, 157; A Woolen Factory in the Wilds, 158; Lot Smith 
and His End, 159; Moen Copie Reverts to the Indians, 160; Wood- 
ruff and Its Water Troubles, 161; Holbrook Once Was Horsehead 
Crossing, 163. 

Chapter Fifteen 

SETTLEMENT SPREADS SOUTHWARD— Snowflake and Its Nam- 
ing, 164; Joseph Fish, Historian, 166; Taylor, Second of the Name, 
166; Shumway's Historic Founder, 167; Showlow Won in a Game 
of "Seven-Up," 168; Mountain Communities, 169; Forest Dale on 
the Reservation, 170; Tonto Basin's Early Settlement, 173. 

Chapter Sixteen 
LITTLE COLORADO SETTLEMENTS— Genesis of St. Johns, 177; 
Land Purchased by Mormons, 179; Wild Celebration of St. John's 
Day, 180; Disputes Over Land Titles, 181; Irrigation Difficulties 
and Disaster, 182; Meager Rations at Concho, 183; Springerville 
and Eagar, 184; A Land of Beaver and Bear, 185; Altitudinous 
Agriculture at Alpine, 186; In Western New Mexico, 187; New 
Mexican Locations, 188. 

vii 



Chapter Seventeen 

ECONOMIC CONDITIONS— Nature and Man Both Were Difficult, 
190; Railroad Work Brought Bread, 191; Burden of a Railroad 
Land Grant, 192; Little Trouble with Indians, 194; Church Ad- 
ministrative Features, 195. 

Chapter Eighteen 

EXTENSION TOWARD MEXICO— Dan W. Jones' Great Exploring 
Trip, 197; The Pratt-Stewart-Trejo Expedition, 199; Start of the 
Lehi Community, 201; Plat of Lehi, 202; Transformation Wrought 
at Camp Utah, 205; Departure of the Merrill Party, 207; Lehi's 
Later Development, 209. 

Chapter Nineteen 

THE PLANTING OF MESA— Transformation of a Desert Plain, 211; 
Use of a Prehistoric Canal, 213; Moving Upon the Mesa Townsite, 
215; An Irrigation Clash That Did Not Come, 216; Mesa's Civic 
Administration, 216; Foundation of Alma, 218; Highways Into the 
Mountains, 218; Hayden's Ferry, Latterly Tempe, 219; Organiza- 
tion of the Maricopa Stake, 220; A Great Temple to Rise in Mesa, 
222. 

Chapter Twenty 

FIRST FAMILIES OF ARIZONA— Pueblo Dwellers of Ancient Times, 
225; Map of Prehistoric Canals, 226; Evidences of Well-Developed 
Culture, 227; Northward Trend of the Ancient People, 228; The 
Great Reavis Land Grant Fraud, 229. 

Chapter Twenty-one 
NEAR THE MEXICAN BORDER— Location on the San Pedro 
River, 232; Malaria Overcomes a Community, 233; On the Route 
of the Mormon Battalion, 235; Chronicles of a Quiet Neighborhood, 
235; Looking Toward Homes in Mexico, 236; Arizona's First 
Artesian Well, 238; Development of a Market at Tombstone, 238 

Chapter Twenty-two 
ON THE UPPER GILA— Ancient Dwellers and Military Travelers, 
241; Early Days Around Safford, 242; Map of Southeastern 
Arizona, 243; Mormon Location at Smithville, 244; A Second Party 
Locates at Graham, 246; Vicissitudes of Pioneering, 248; Gila 
Community of the Faith, 248; Considering the Lamanites, 250; 
The Hostile Chiricahuas, 251; Murders by Indian Raiders, 253;' 
Outlawry Along the Gila, 254; A Gray Highway of Danger, 255. 



mil 



Chapter Twenty-three 

CIVIC AND CHURCH FEATURES— Troublesome River Conditions, 
257; Basic Law in a Mormon Community, 258; Layton, Soldier 
and Pioneer, 260; A New Leader on the Gila, 262; Church Acad- 
emies of Learning, 263. 

Chapter Twenty-four 

MOVEMENT INTO MEXICO— Looking Over the Land, 265; Coloni- 
zation in Chihuahua, 266; Prosperity in an Alien Land, 268; 
Abandonment of the Mountain Colonies, 269; Sad Days for the 
Sonora Colonists, 271; Congressional Inquiry, 273; Repopulation 
of the Mexican Colonies, 274. 

Chapter Twenty-five 

MODERN DEVELOPMENT— Oases Have Grown in the Desert, 275; 
Prosperity Has Succeeded Privation, 276. 

BIBLIOGRAPHY.. 279 

PLACE NAMES OF THE SOUTHWEST 281 

CHRONOLOGY ' 2 87 

TRAGEDIES OF THE FRONTIER „L~ _„" _„".„." 291 



INDEX. 



293 



MAP OF ARIZONA MORMON SETTLEMENT 310 



IX 



THE ILLUSTRATIONS 



"El Vado," Pioneer Gateway into Arizona Frontispiece 

MormOn Battalion Officers.- 20 

Battalion Members at Gold Discovery in California.- 20 

Battalion Members who Returned to Arizona _ 21 

Battalion Members who Returned to Arizona 28 

Battalion Members who Returned to Arizona 29 

The Mormon Battalion Monument 36 

Old Spanish Pueblo of Tubac 37 

Jacob Hamblin, "Apostle to the Lamanites" 60 

The Church Presidents 61 

Lieutenant Ives' Steamboat on the Colorado in 1858 68 

Ammon M. Tenney, Pioneer Scout of the Southwest 69 

Early Missionaries Among the Indians 84 

Moen Copie, First Headquarters of Missionaries to the Moquis 85 

Pipe Springs or Windsor Castle... 100 

Moccasin Springs on Road to the Paria... _ 101 

In the Kaibab Forest, near the Home of the Shivwits Indians 101 

A Fredonia Street Scene 108 

Walpi, One of the Hopi (Moqui) Villages 108 

Warren M. Johnson's House at Paria Ferry 109 

Crossing of the Colorado at the Paria Ferry.„ 109 

Brigham Young and Party at Mouth of Virgin in 1870 116 

Baptism of the Tribe of Shivwits Indians 117 

Founders of the Colorado River Ferries 132 

Crossing the Colorado River at Scanlon's Ferry 133 

Crossing the Little Colorado River with Ox Teams 140 

Old Fort at Brigham City 140 

Woodruff Dam, After One of the Frequent Washouts 141 

First Permanent Dam at St. Joseph 141 

Colorado Ferry and Ranch at the Mouth of the Paria (G. W. James) 148 

Lee Cabin at Moen Avi (Photo, by Dr. Geo. Wharton James)._ 149 

Moen Copie Woolen Mill 149 

Grand Falls on the Little Colorado 156 

Old Fort Moroni with its Stockade 157 



Fort Moroni in Later Years 157 

Erastus Snow, Who Had Charge of Arizona Colonization 164 

Anthony W. Ivins 165 

Joseph W. McMurrin 165 

Joseph Fish, an Arizona Historian 172 

Joseph H. Richards of St. Joseph 172 

St. Joseph Pioneers and Historian Andrew Jenson _ 173 

Shumway and the Old Mill on Silver Creek 173 

First Mormon School, Church and Bowery at St. Johns 180 

David K. Udall and His First Residence at St. Johns 180 

St. Johns in 1887 181 

Stake Academy at St. Johns 181 

Founders of Northern Arizona Settlements 188 

Group of Pioneers 189 

Presidents of Five Arizona Stakes 196 

Old Academy at Snowflake : 197 

New Academy at Snowflake 197 

The Desolate Road to the Colorado Ferry 204 

Leaders of Unsuccessful Expeditions 204 

First Party to Southern Arizona and Mexico 205 

Second Party to Southern Arizona and Mexico 205 

Original Lehi Locators 212 

Founders of Mesa 213 

Maricopa Stake Presidents._ 220 

Maricopa Delegation at Pinetop Conference 221 

The Arizona Temple at Mesa 228 

Jonathan Heaton and His Fifteen Sons 229 

Northern Arizona Pioneers 229 

Teeples House, First in Pima 244 

First Schoolhouse at Safford 245 

Gila Normal College at Thatcher... 245 

Gila Valley Pioneers 260 

Pioneer Women of the Gila Valley 261 

Killed by Indians 292 

Killed by Outlaws 293 

SPECIAL MAPS 

State of Deseret 51 

Pah-ute County, Showing the Muddy Settlements 103 

Northeastern Arizona, Showing Little Colorado Settlements 139 

Lehi, Plan of Settlement 202 

Ancient Canals of Salt River Valley._ 226 

Southeastern Arizona 243 

Arizona Mormon Settlement and Early Roads 309 



XI 



Chapter One 



tlterrass ^xmkexs 



Mormon Colonization in the West 

The Author would ask earliest appreciation by the 
reader that this work on "Mormon Settlement in Arizona" 
has been written by one entirely outside that faith and 
that, in no way, has it to do with the doctrines of a sect set 
aside as distinct and peculiar to itself, though it claims fel- 
lowship with any denomination that follows the teachings 
of the Nazarene. The very word "Mormon" in publica- 
tions of that denomination usually is put within quotation 
marks, accepted only as a nickname for the preferred and 
lengthier title of "Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day 
Saints." Outside the Church, the word, at least till within 
a decade or so, has been one that has formed the founda- 
tion for much of denunciation. There was somewhat of 
pathos in the remark to the Author by a high Mormon 
official, "There never has been middle ground in literature 
that affected the Mormons — it either has been written 
against us or for us." From a religious standpoint, this 
work is on neutral ground. But, from the standpoint of 
western colonization and consequent benefit to the Nation, 
the Author trusts the reader will join with him in apprecia- 
tion of the wonderful work that has been done by these 
people. It is this field especially that has been covered in 
this book. 

Occasionally it will be found that the colonizers have 
been referred to as "Saints." It is a shortening of the 
preferred title, showing a lofty moral aspiration, at least. 
It would be hard to imagine wickedness proceeding from 
such a designation, though the Church itself assuredly 



would be the first to disclaim assumption of full saintliness 
within its great membership. Still, there might be testi- 
mony from the writer that he has lived near the Mormons 
of Arizona for more than forty years and in that time has 
found them law-abiding and industrious, generally of sturdy 
English, Scotch, Scandinavian or Yankee stock wherein 
such qualities naturally run with the blood. If there be 
with such people the further influence of a religion that 
binds in a union of faith and in works of the most practical 
sort, surely there must be accomplishment of material and 
important things. 

Pioneers in Agriculture 

In general, the Mormon (and the word will be used 
without quotation marks) always has been agricultural. 
The Church itself appears to have a foundation idea that 
its membership shall live by, upon and through the pro- 
ducts of the soil. It will be found in this work that Church 
influence served to turn men from even the gold fields of 
California to the privations of pioneer Utah. It also will 
be found that the Church, looking for extension and yet 
careful of the interests of its membership, directed the ex- 
peditions that penetrated every part of the Southwest. 

There was a pioneer Mormon period in Arizona, that 
might as well be called the missionary period. Then came 
the prairie schooners that bore, from Utah, men and women 
to people and redeem the arid southland valleys. Most of 
this colonization was in Arizona, where the field was com- 
paratively open. In California there had been religious 
persecution and in New Mexico the valleys very generally 
had been occupied for centuries by agricultural Indians and 
by native peoples speaking an alien tongue. There was 
extension over into northern Mexico, with consequent travail 
when impotent governments crumbled. But in Arizona, in 
the valleys of the Little Colorado, the Salt, the Gila and 
the San Pedro and of their tributaries and at points where 
the white man theretofore had failed, if he had reached 



them at all, the Mormons set their stakes and, with united 
effort, soon cleared the land, dug ditches and placed dams 
in unruly streams, all to the end that farms should smile 
where the desert had reigned. It all needed imagination 
and vision, something that, very properly, may be called 
faith. Sometimes there was failure. Occasionally the 
brethren failed to live in unity. They were human. But, 
at all times, back of them were the serenity and judgment 
and resources of the Church and with them went the en- 
gendered confidence that all would be well, whatever befell 
of finite sort. It has been said that faith removes moun- 
tains. The faith that came with these pioneers was well 
backed and carried with it brawn and industry. 

"Mormon Settlement in Arizona" should not carry the 
idea that Arizona was settled wholly by Mormons. Before 
them came the Spaniards, who went north of the Gila only 
as explorers and missionaries and whose agriculture south 
of that stream assuredly was not of enduring value. There 
were trappers, prospectors, miners, cattlemen and farmers 
long before the wagons from Utah first rolled southward, 
but the fact that Arizona's agricultural development owes 
enormously to Mormon effort can be appreciated in con- 
sidering the establishment and development of the fertile 
areas of Mesa, Lehi, the Safford-Thatcher-Franklin district, 
St. David on the San Pedro, and the many settlements of 
northeastern Arizona, with St. Johns and Snowflake as 
their headquarters. 

It is a remarkable fact that Mormon immigrants made 
even a greater number of agricultural settlements in Arizona 
than did the numerically preponderating other peoples. 
However, the explanation is a simple one: The average 
immigrant, coming without organization, for himself alone, 
naturally gravitated to the mines — indeed, was brought to 
the Southwest by the mines. There was little to attract 
him in the desert plains through which ran intermittent 
stream flows, and he lacked the vision that showed the 



desert developed into the oasis. The Mormon, however, 
came usually from an agricultural environment. Rarely 
was he a miner. 

Of later years there has been much community com- 
mingling of the Mormon and the non-Mormon. There even 
has been a second immigration from Utah, usually of 
people of means. The day has passed for the ox-bowed 
wagon and for settlements out in the wilderness. There 
has been left no wilderness in which to work magic through 
labor. But the Mormon influence still is strong in agri- 
cultural Arizona and the high degree of development of 
many of her localities is based upon the pioneer settlement 
and work that are dealt with in the succeeding pages. 

First Farmers in Many States 

It is a fact little appreciated that the Mormons have 
been first in agricultural colonization of nearly all the inter- 
mountain States of today. This may have been providen- 
tial, though the western movement of the Church happened 
in a time of the greatest shifting of population ever known 
on the continent. It preceded by about a year the discovery 
of gold in California, and gold, of course, was the lodestone 
that drew the greatest of west-bound migrations. The Mor- 
mons, however, were first. Not drawn by visions of wealth, 
unless they looked forward to celestial mansions, they 
sought, particularly, valleys wherein peace and plenty could 
be secured by labor. Nearly all were farmers and it was 
from the earth they designed drawing their subsistence 
and enough wherewith to establish homes. 

Of course, the greatest of foundations was that at Salt 
Lake, July 24, 1847, when Brigham Young led his Pioneers 
down from the canyons and declared the land good. But 
there were earlier settlements. 

First of the faith on the western slopes of the continent 
was the settlement at San Francisco by Mormons from the 
ship Brooklyn. They landed July 31, .1846, to found the 



first English speaking community of the Golden State, 
theretofore Mexican. These Mormons established the farm- 
ing community of New Helvetia, in the San Joaquin Valley, 
the same fall, while men from the Mormon Battalion, 
January 24, 1848, participated in the discovery of gold at 
Sutter's Fort. Mormons also were pioneers in Southern 
California, where, in 1851, several hundred families of the 
faith settled at San Bernardino. 

The first Anglo-Saxon settlement within the boundaries 
of the present State of Colorado was at Pueblo, November 
15, 1846, by Capt. James Brown and about 150 Mormon 
men and women who had been sent back from New Mexico, 
into which they had gone, a part of the Mormon Battalion 
that marched on to the Pacific Coast. 

The first American settlement in Nevada was one of 
Mormons in the Carson Valley, at Genoa, in 1851. 

In Wyoming, as early as 1854, was a Mormon settle- 
ment at Green River, near Fort Bridger, known as Fort 
Supply. 

In Idaho, too, preeminence is claimed by virtue of a 
Mormon settlement at Fort Lemhi, on the Salmon River, 
in 1855, and at Franklin, in Cache Valley, in 1860. 

The earliest Spanish settlement of Arizona, within its 
present political boundaries, was in the Santa Cruz Valley 
not far from the southern border. There was a large ranch 
at Calabasas at a very early date, and at that point Cus- 
todian Frank Pinkley of the Tumacacori mission ruins 
lately discovered the remains of a sizable church. A priest 
had station at San Xavier in 1701. Tubac as a presidio dates 
from 1752, Tumacacori from 1754 and Tucson from 1776. 
These, however, were Spanish settlements, missions or 
presidios. In the north, Prescott was founded in May, 
1864, and the Verde Valley was peopled in February, 1865. 
Earlier still were Fort Mohave, reestablished by soldiers 
of the California Column in 1863, and Fort Defiance, on 
the eastern border line,' established in 1849. A temporary 



Mormon settlement at Tubac in 1851, is elsewhere de- 
scribed. But in honorable place in point of seniority 
are to be noted the Mormon settlements on the Muddy 
and the Virgin, particularly, in the very northwestern corner 
of the present Arizona and farther westward in the southern- 
most point of Nevada, once a part of Arizona. In this 
northwestern Arizona undoubtedly was the first permanent 
Anglo-Saxon agricultural settlement in Arizona, that at 
Beaver Dams, now known as Littlefield, on the Virgin, 
founded at least as early as the fall of 1864. 

The Wilderness Has Been Kept Broken 

Of the permanence and quality of the Mormon pioneer- 
ing, strong testimony is offered by F. S. Dellenbaugh in his 
"Breaking the Wilderness:" 

It must be acknowledged that the Mormons were wilderness 
breakers of high quality. They not only broke it, but they kept it 
broken; and instead of the gin mill and the gambling hell, as corner- 
stones of their progress and as examples to the natives of the white 
men's superiority, they planted orchards, gardens, farms, schoolhouses 
and peaceful homes. There is today no part of the United States 
where human life is safer than in the land of the Mormons; no place 
where there is less lawlessness. A people who have accomplished 
so much that is good, who have endured danger, privation and suf- 
fering, who have withstood the obloquy of more powerful sects, have 
in them much thatf'is commendable; they deserve more than abuse^ 
they deserve admiration. 



Chapter Two 



Soldiers Who Sought No Strife 

The march of the Mormon Battalion to the Pacific sea 
in 1846-7 created one of the most picturesque features of 
American history and one without parallel in American 
military annals. There was incidental creation, through 
Arizona, of the first southwestern wagon road. Fully as 
remarkable as its travel was the constitution of the Bat- 
talion itself. It was assembled hastily for an emergency 
that had to do with the seizure of California from Mexico. 
Save for a few officers detailed from the regular army, not 
a man had been a soldier, unless in the rude train-bands 
that held annual muster in that stage of the Nation's 
progress, however skilled certain members might have 
been in the handling of hunting arms. 

Organization was a matter of only a few days before 
the column had been put into motion toward the west. 
There was no drill worthy of the name. There was establish- 
ment of companies simply as administrative units. Dis- 
cipline seems to have been very lax indeed, even if there 
were periods in which severity of undue sort appears to 
have been made manifest by the superior officers. 

Still more remarkable, the rank and file glorified in 
being men of peace, to whom strife was abhorrent. They 
were recruited from a people who had been driven from a 
home of prosperity and who at the time were encamped in 
most temporary fashion, awaiting the word of their leaders 
to pass on to the promised western Land of Canaan. For 
a part of the way there went with the Battalion parts of 
families, surely a very unmilitary proceeding, but most of 



the soldiers for the time severed all connection with their 
people, whom they were to join later on the shore of the 
Great Salt Lake of which they knew so little. They were 
illy clad and shod, were armed mainly with muskets of type 
even then obsolete, were given wagon transportation from 
the odds and ends of a military post equipment and thus 
were set forth upon their great adventure. 

Formation of the Mormon Battalion came logically as 
a part of the determination of the Mormon people to seek 
a hew home in the West, for in 1846 there had come con- 
clusion that no permanent peace could be known in Illinois 
or in any of the nearby States, owing to religious prejudice. 
The High Council had made announcement of the intention 
of the people to move to some good valleys of the Rocky 
Mountains. President Jesse C. Little of the newly created 
Eastern States Mission of the Church, was instructed to 
visit Washington and to secure, if possible, governmental 
assistance in the western migration. One suggestion was 
that the Mormons be sent to construct a number of stock- 
ade posts along the overland route. But, finally, after 
President Little had had several conferences with President 
Polk, there came decision to accept enlistment of a Mormon 
military command, for dispatch to the Pacific Coast. The 
final orders cut down the enlistment from a proffered 2000 
to 500 individuals. 

California Was the Goal 

There should be understanding at the outset that the 
Mormon Battalion was a part of the volunteer soldiery of 
the Mexican War. At the time there was a regular army of 
very small proportions, and that was being held for the 
descent upon the City of Mexico, via Vera Cruz, under 
General Scott. General Taylor had volunteers for the 
greater part of his northern army in Mexico. Doniphan in 
his expedition into Chihuahua mainly had Missouri volun- 
teers. 

In California was looming a very serious situation. 

8 



Only sailors were available to help American settlers in 
seizing and holding the coast against a very active and 
exceptionally well-provided and intelligent Mexican, or 
Spanish-speaking, opposition. Fremont and his "surveying 
party" hardly had improved the situation in bringing dis- 
sension into the American armed forces. General Kearny 
had been dispatched with all speed from Fort Leavenworth 
westward, with a small force of dragoons, later narrowly 
escaping disaster as he approached San Diego. There was 
necessity for a supporting party for Kearny and for pro- 
vision of troops to enforce an American peace in California. 
To fill this breach, resort was had to the harassed and home- 
less Saints. 

The route was taken along the Santa Fe trail, which 
then, in 1846, was in use mainly by buffalo hunters and 
western trading and trapping parties. It was long before 
the western migration of farm seekers, and the lure of gold 
yet was distant. There were unsatisfactory conditions of 
administration and travel, as narrated by historians of the 
command, mainly enlisted men, naturally with the view- 
point of the private soldier. But it happens that the details 
agree, in general, and indicate that the trip throughout was 
one of hardship and of denial. There came the loss of a 
respected commander and the temporary accession of an 
impolitic leader. Especially there was complaint over the 
mistaken zeal of an army surgeon, who insisted upon the 
administration of calomel and who denied the men resort 
to their own simple remedies, reinforced by expression of 
what must have been a very sustaining sort of faith. 

A more popular, though strict, commander was found in 
Santa Fe, whence the Battalion was pushed forward again 
within five days, following Kearny to the Coast. The 
Rockies were passed through a trackless wilderness, yet on 
better lines than had been found by Kearny's horsemen. 
Arizona, as now known, was entered not far from the 
present city of Douglas. There were fights with wild bulls 



9 



in the San Pedro valley, there was a bloodless victory in 
the taking of the ancient pueblo of Tucson, there was 
travail in the passage of the desert to the Gila and a brief 
respite in the plenty of the Pima villages before the weary 
way was taken down the Gila to the Colorado and thence 
across the sands of the Colorado desert, in California, to 
the shores of the western ocean. 

All this was done on foot. The start from Leavenworth 
was in the heat of summer, August 12, 1846. Two months 
later Santa Fe was entered, Tucson was passed in December 
and on January 27, 1847, "was caught the first and a 
magnificent view of the great ocean; and by rare chance it 
was so calm that it shone like a great mirror." 

In detail, the following description of the march, as far 
as Los Angeles, mainly is from the McClintock History of 
Arizona : 
Organization of the Battalion 

Col. Stephen W. Kearny, commanding the First Dra- 
goon regiment, then stationed at Fort Leavenworth, selected 
Capt. James Allen of the same regiment to be commander 
of the new organization, with volunteer rank as lieutenant- 
colonel. The orders read: "You will have the Mormons 
distinctly understand that I wish to have them as volun- 
teers for twelve months; that they will be marched to 
California, receive pay and allowances during the above 
time, and at its expiration they will be discharged, and 
allowed to retain as their private property the guns and 
accouterments furnished them at this post." 

Captain Allen proceeded at once to Mount Pisgah, a 
Mormon camp 130 miles east of Council Bluffs, where, on 
June 26, 1846, he issued a recruiting circular in which was 
stated : "This gives an opportunity of sending a portion of 
your young and intelligent men to the ultimate destination 
of your whole people at the expense of the United States, 
and this advance party can thus pave the way and look out 
the land for their brethren to come after them." 

10 



July 16, 1846, five companies were mustered into the 
service of the United States at Council Bluffs, Iowa Terri- 
tory. The company officers had been elected by the re- 
cruits, including Captains Jefferson Hunt, Jesse B. Hunter, 
James Brown and Nelson Higgins. George P. Dykes was 
appointed adjutant and William Mclntyre assistant sur- 
geon. 

The march westward was started July 20, the route 
through St. Joseph and Leavenworth, where were found a 
number of companies of Missouri volunteers. Colonel Allen, 
who had secured the confidence and affection of his soldiers, 
had to be left, sick, at Leavenworth, where he died August 23. 

At Leavenworth full equipment was secured, including 
flintlock muskets, with a few caplock guns for snapshoot- 
ing and hunting. Pay also was drawn, the paymaster ex- 
pressing surprise over the fact that every man could write 
his own name, "something that only one in three of the 
Missouri volunteers could accomplish." August 12 and 
14 two divisions of the Battalion left Leavenworth. 

Cooke Succeeds to the Command 

The place of Colonel Allen was taken, provisionally, by 
First Lieut. A. J. Smith of the First Dragoons, who proved 
unpopular, animus probably starting through his military 
severity and the desire of the Battalion that Captain Hunt 
should succeed to the command. The first division arrived 
at Santa Fe October 9, and was received by Colonel Doni- 
phan, commander of the post, with a salute of 100 guns. 
Colonel Doniphan was an old friend. He had been a 
lawyer and militia commander in Clay County, Missouri, 
when Joseph Smith was tried by court martial at Far West 
in 1838 and had succeeded in changing a judgment of 
death passed by the mob. On the contrary, Col. Sterling 
Price, the brigade commander, was considered an active 
enemy of the Mormons. 

At Santa Fe, Capt. P. St. George Cooke, an officer of 
dragoons, succeeded to the command, as lieutenant-colonel, 

11 



under appointment of General Kearny, who already had 
started westward. Capt. James Brown was ordered to take 
command of a party of about eighty men, together with 
about two-score women and children, and with them winter 
at Pueblo, on the headwaters of the Arkansas River. 
Fifty-five more men were sent to Pueblo from the Rio 
Grande when found unable to travel. 

Colonel Cooke made a rather discouraging report on the 
character of the command. He said: 

It was enlisted too much by families; some were too old, some 
feeble, and some too young; it was embarrassed by too many women; 
it was undisciplined; it was much worn by travel on foot and march- 
ing from Nauvoo, Illinois; clothing was very scant; there was no money 
to pay them or clothing to issue; their mules were utterly broken 
down; the quartermaster department was without funds and its 
credit bad; animals scarce and inferior and deteriorating every hour 
for lack of forage. So every preparation must be pushed^-hurried. 
The March Through the Southwest 

After the men had sent their pay checks back to their 
families, the expedition started from Santa Fe, 448 strong. 
It had rations for only sixty days. The commander wrote 
on November 19 that he was determined to take along his 
wagons, though the mules were nearly broken down at 
the outset, and added a delicate criticism of Fremont's 
self-centered character, "The only good mules were taken 
for the express for Fremont's mail, the General's order 
requiring the 21 best in Santa Fe." 

Colonel Cooke soon proved an officer who would en- 
force discipline. He had secured an able quartermaster in 
Lieut. George Stoneman, First Dragoons. Lieutenant 
Smith took office as acting commissary. Three mounted 
dragoons were taken along, one a trumpeter. An additional 
mounted company of New Mexican volunteers, planned 
at Santa Fe,- could not be raised. 

Before the command got out of the Rio Grande Valley, 
the condition of the commissary best is to be illustrated by 
the following extract from verses written by Levi Han- 
cock: 

12 



We sometimes now lack for bread, 

Are less than quarter rations fed, 
And soon expect, for all of meat, 

Nought less than broke-down mules to eat. 

The trip over the Continental Divide was one of hard- 
ship, at places tracks for the wagons being made by march- 
ing files of men ahead, to tramp down ruts wherein the 
wheels might run. The command for 48 hours at one time 
was without water. From the top of the Divide the wagons 
had to be taken down by hand, with men behind with ropes, 
the horses driven below. 

Finally a more level country was reached, December 2, 
at the old, ruined ranch of San Bernardino, near the south- 
eastern corner of the present Arizona. The principal in- 
terest of the trip, till the Mexican forces at Tucson were 
encountered, then lay in an attack upon the marching 
column by a number of wild bulls in the San Pedro Valley. 
It had been assumed that Cooke would follow down the 
San Pedro to the Gila, but, on learning that the better and 
shorter route was by way of Tucson, he determined upon 
a more southerly course. 

Capture of the Pueblo of Tucson 

Tucson was garrisoned by about 200 Mexican soldiers, 
with two small brass fieldpieces, a concentration of the 
garrisons of Tubac, Santa Cruz and Fronteras. After some 
brief parley, the Mexican commander, Captain Comaduron, 
refusing to surrender, left the village, compelling most of 
its inhabitants to accompany him. No resistance whatever 
was made. When the Battalion marched in, the Colonel 
took pains to assure the populace that all would be treated 
with kindness. He sent the Mexican commander a cour- 
teous letter for the Governor of Sonora, Don Manuel 
Gandara, who was reported "disgusted and disaffected to 
the imbecile central government." Little food was found 
for the men, but several thousand bushels of grain had 
been left and were drawn upon. On December 17, the day 

13 



after the arrival of the command, the Colonel and about 
fifty men "passed up a creek about five miles above 
Tucson toward a village (San Xavier), where they had seen 
a large church from the hills they had passed over." The 
Mexican commander reported that the Americans had 
taken advantage of him, in that they had entered the town 
on Sunday, while he and his command and most of the 
inhabitants were absent at San Xavier, attending mass. 

The Pima villages were reached four days later. By 
Cooke the Indians were called "friendly, guileless and 
singularly innocent and cheerful people." 

In view of the prosperity of the Pima and Maricopa, 
Colonel Cooke suggested that this would be a good place 
for the exiled Saints to locate, and a proposal to this effect 
was favorably received by the Indians. It is possible that 
his suggestion had something to do with the colonizing by 
the Mormons of the upper part of the nearby Salt River 
Valley in later years. 

About January 1, 1847, to lighten the load of the half- 
starved mules, a barge was made by placing two wagon 
bodies on dry cottonwood logs and on this 2500 pounds of 
provisions and corn were launched on the Gila River. 
The improvised boat found too many sandbars, and most 
of its cargo had to be jettisoned, lost in a time when rations 
had been reduced to a few ounces a day per man. January 
9 the Colorado River was reached, and the command and 
its impedimenta were ferried over on the same raft contriv- 
ance that had proven ineffective on the Gila. 

Colonel Cooke, in his narrative concerning the practi- 
cability of the route he had taken, said: "Undoubtedly the 
fine bottomland of the Colorado, if not of the Gila, will 
soon be settled; then all difficulty will be removed." 

The Battalion had still more woe in its passage across 
the desert of Southern California, where wells often had 
to be dug for water and where rations were at a minimum, 
until Warner's ranch was reached, where each man was 

14 



given five pounds of beef a day, constituting almost the 
sole article of subsistence. Tyler, the Battalion historian, 
insists that five pounds is really a small allowance for a 
healthy laboring man, because "when taken alone it is not 
nearly equal to mush and milk," and he referred to an 
issuance to each of Fremont's men of ten pounds per day 
of fat beef. 

Congratulation on Its Achievement 

At the Mission of San Diego, January 30, 1847, the 
proud Battalion Commander issued the following memo- 
rable order: 

The Lieutenant-Colonel commanding congratulates the Battalion 
on their safe arrival on the shore of the Pacific Ocean, and the con- 
clusion of their march of over 2000 miles. 

History may be searched in vain for an equal march of infantry. 
Half of it has been through a wilderness, where nothing but savages 
and wild beasts are found, or deserts where, for want of water, there is 
no living creature. There, with almost hopeless labor we have dug 
wells, which the future traveler will enjoy. Without a guide who had 
traversed them, we have ventured into trackless tablelands where 
water was not found for several marches. With crowbar and pick, and 
ax in hand, we worked our way over mountains, which seemed to defy 
aught save the wild goat, and hewed a pass through a chasm of living 
rock more narrow than our wagons. To bring these first wagons to 
the Pacific, we have preserved the strength of our mules by herding 
them over large tracts, which you have laboriously guarded without 
loss. The garrisons of four presidios of Sonora concentrated within 
the walls of Tucson, gave us no pause. We drove them out with our 
artillery, but our intercourse with the citizens was unmarked by a 
single act of injustice. Thus, marching, half-naked and half-fed, 
and living upon wild animals, we have discovered and made a road of 
great value to our country. 

Arrived at the first settlements of California, after a single day's 
rest, you cheerfully turned off from the route to this point of promised 
repose, to enter upon a campaign and meet, as we supposed, the ap- 
proach of an enemy; and this, too, without even salt to season your 
sole subsistence of fresh meat. 

Lieutenants A. J. Smith and George Stoneman of the First Dra- 
goons have shared and given invaluable aid in all these labors. 

Thus, volunteers, you have exhibited some high and essential 

15 



qualities of veterans. But much remains undone. Soon you will 
turn your attention to the drill, to system and order, to forms also, 
which are all necessary to the soldier. 

Mapping the Way Through Arizona 

The only map of the route of the Mormon Battalion is 
one made by Colonel Cooke. Outlined on a map of Arizona, 
it is printed elsewhere in this work, insofar as it affects this 
State. The Colonel's map is hardly satisfactory, for only at 
a few points does he designate locations known today and 
his topography covers only the district within his vision as 
he marched. 

Judging from present information of the lay of the land, 
it is evident that LeRoux did not guide the Mormon Bat- 
talion on the easiest route. Possibly this was due to the fact 
that it was necessary to find water for each daily camp. 
The Rio Grande was left at a point 258 miles south of 
Santa Fe, not far from Mesilla. Thence the journey was 
generally toward the southwest, over a very rough country 
nearly all the way to the historic old rancho of San Bernar- 
dino, now on the international line about 25 miles east of 
the present city of Douglas. The rancho had been aban- 
doned long before, because of the depredating Apaches. 
It was stated by Cooke that before it had been deserted? 
on it were 80,000 cattle, ranging as far as the Gila to the 
northward. The hacienda was enclosed by a wall, with 
two regular bastions, and there was a spring fifteen feet 
in diameter. 

The departure from San Bernardino was on December 
4, 1846, the day's march to a camp in a pass eight miles to 
the westward, near a rocky basin of water and beneath a 
peak which Nature apparently had painted green, yellow 
and brown. This camp was noted as less than twenty miles 
from Fronteras, Mexico, and near a Coyotero trail into 
Mexico. 

On the 5th was a march of fourteen miles, to a large 
spring. This must have been almost south of Douglas or 
Agua Prieta (Blackwater). 

16 



On the 6th the Battalion cut its way twelve miles 
through mesquite to a water hole in a fine grove of oak and 
walnut. It is suggested by Geo. H. Kelly that this was in 
Anavacachi Pass, twelve miles southwest of Douglas. 

On December 8 seventeen miles were made northwest, 
to a dry camp, with a view of the valley of the San Pedro. 
On the 9th, either ten or sixteen miles, for the narrative is 
indefinite, the San Pedro was crossed and there was camp 
six miles lower down on the western side. There is notation 
that the river was followed for 65 miles, one of the camps 
being at what was called the Canyon San Pedro, undoubted- 
ly at The Narrows, just above Charleston. 

December 14 there was a turn westward and at a 
distance of nine miles was found a direct trail to Tucson. 
The day's march was twenty miles, probably terminating 
at about Pantano, in the Cienega Wash, though this is 
only indicated by the map or description. 

On the 15th was a twelve-mile march to a dry camp and 
on the 16th, after a sixteen-mile march, camp was made a 
half mile west of the pueblo of Tucson. 
P| From Tucson to the Pima villages on the Gila River, a 
distance of about 73 miles, the way was across the desert, 
practically on the present line of the Southern Pacific rail- 
road. Sixty-two miles were covered in 51 hours. At the 
Gila there was junction with General Kearny's route. 

From the Pima villages westward there is mention of a 
dry "Jornada" (journey) of about forty miles, caused by a 
great bend of the Gila River. Thus is indicated that the 
route was by way of Estrella Pass, south of the Sierra 
Estrella, on the present railroad line, and not by the 
alternative route, just south of and along the river and 
north of the mountains. Thereafter the marches averaged 
only ten miles a day, through much sand, as far as the 
Colorado, which was reached January 8, 1847. 

The Battalion's route across Arizona at only one point 
cut a spot of future Mormon settlement. This was in the 

17 



San Pedro Valley, where the march of a couple of days 
was through a fertile section that was occupied in 1878 by 
a community of the faith from Lehi. This community, 
now known as St. David, is referred to elsewhere, at length. 

Manufactures of the Arizona Indians 

Colonel Cooke told that the Maricopas, near the junc- 
tion of the Gila and the Salt, had piled on their house 
arbors "cotton in the pod for drying." As he passed in the 
latter days of the year, it is probable he saw merely the 
bolls that had been left unopened after frost had come, and 
that this was not the ordinary method for handling cotton. 
That considerable cotton was grown is evidenced by the fact 
that a part of Cooke's company purchased cotton blankets. 
Historian Tyler states that when he reached Salt Lake the 
most material feature of his clothing equipment was a Pima 
blanket, from this proceeding an inference that the Indians 
made cotton goods of lasting and wearing quality. In the 
northern part of Arizona, the Hopi also raised cotton and 
made cloth and blankets, down to the time of the coming 
of the white man, with his gaudy calicoes that undoubtedly 
were given prompt preference in the color-loving aboriginal 
eye. 
Cooke's Story of the March 

"The Conquest of New Mexico and California" is the 
title of an excellent and entertaining volume written in 
1878 by Lieut.-Col. P. St. George Cooke, commander of 
the Battalion. It embraces much concerning the political 
-features found or developed in both Territories and deals 
somewhat with the Kearny expedition and with the Doni- 
phan campaign into Mexico that moved from Socorro two 
months after the Battalion started westward from the Rio 
Grande. Despite his eloquent acknowledgment of good 
service in the San Diego order, he had little to say in his 
narrative concerning the personnel of his command. In 
addition to the estimate of the command printed on a pre- 



18 



ceding page, he wrote, "The Battalion have never been 
drilled and though obedient, have little discipline; they 
exhibit great heedlessness and ignorance and some ob- 
stinacy." The ignorance undoubtedly was of military mat- 
ters, for the men had rather better than the usual schooling 
of the rough period. At several points his diary gave such 
details as, "The men arrived completely worn down; they 
staggered as they marched, as they did yesterday. A great 
many of the men are wholly without shoes and use every 
expedient, such as rawhide moccasins and sandals and even 
wrapping the feet in pieces of woolen and cotton cloth." 

It is evident that to the Colonel's West Point ideas of 
discipline the conduct of his command was a source of 
irritation that eventually was overcome when he found he 
could depend upon the individuals as well as upon the 
companies. Several stories are told of his encounters in 
repartee with his soldiers, in which he did not always have 
the upper hand, despite his rank. Brusque in manner, he 
yet had a saving sense of humor that had to be drawn upon 
to carry off situations that would have been intolerable in 
his own command of dragoons. 

Tyler's Record of the Expedition 

The best of the narratives concerning the march of the 
Battalion is in a book printed in 1881 by Daniel Tyler, an 
amplification of a remarkable diary kept by him while a 
member of the organization. This book has an exceptionally 
important introduction, written by John Taylor, President 
of the Mormon Church, detailing at length the circum- 
stances that led to the western migration of his people. 
He is especially graphic in his description of the riots of the 
summer of 1844, culminating in the assassination of 
Prophet Joseph Smith and his brother Hyrum at Carthage, 
Illinois, on June 27th. Taylor was with the Prophet at the 
time and was badly wounded. There also is an interesting 
introductory chapter, written by Col. Thos. L. Kane, not 
a Mormon, dramatically dwelling upon the circumstances 

19 



of the exodus from Nauvoo and the later dedication there 
of the beautiful temple, abandoned immediately thereafter. 
He wrote also of the Mormon camps that were then working 
westward, describing the high spirit and even cheerfulness 
in which the people were accepting exile from a grade of 
civilization that had made them prefer the wilds. Colonel 
Kane helped in the organization of the Battalion, in bring- 
ing influence to bear upon the President and in carrying 
to Fort Leavenworth the orders under which the then Col- 
onel Kearny proceeded. 

Henry Standage's Personal Journal 

One of the treasures of the Arizona Historian's office 
is a copy of a journal of about 12,000 words kept by Henry 
Standage, covering his service as a member of the Mormon 
Battalion from July 19, 1846, to July 19, 1847. The writer 
in his later years was a resident of Mesa, his home in Alma 
Ward. His manuscript descended to his grandsons, Orrin 
and Clarence Standage. 

Standage writes from the standpoint of the private 
soldier, with the soldier's usual little growl over conditions 
that affect his comfort ; yet, throughout the narrative, there 
is evidence of strong integrity of purpose, of religious feel- 
ing and of sturdiness befitting a good soldier. 

There is pathos in the very start, how he departed from 
the Camp of Israel, near Council Bluffs, leaving his wife and 
mother in tears. He had been convinced by T. B. Piatt of 
the necessity of obedience to the call of the President of the 
United States to enlist in the federal service. The narrative 
contradicts in no way the more extensive chronicle by Tyler. 
There is description of troubles that early beset the inex- 
perienced soldiers, who appear to have been illy prepared to 
withstand the inclemency of the weather. There was sage 
dissertation concerning the efforts of an army surgeon to 
use calomel, though the men preferred the exercise of faith. 
Buffalo was declared the best meat he had ever eaten. 

On November 1 satisfaction was expressed concerning 

20 




MORMON BATTALION OFFICERS 

1 — P. St. George Cooke, Lieut. Col. Commanding 
2 — Lieut. George P. Dykes, Adjutant, succeeded by 
3 — Lieut. Philemon C. Merrill, Adjutant 




BATTALION MEMBERS AT GOLD DISCOVERY 

Above — Henry W. Bigler Azariah Smith 

Below — Wm. J. Johnston James S. Brown 




BATTALION MEMBERS WHO RETURNED TO ARIZONA 



1 — Sergt. Nathaniel V. Jones 
2 — Wm. C. McClellan 
3 — Sanford Porter 
4 — Lot Smith 
5 — John Hunt 



6 — Wilson D. Pace 
7 — Samuel Lewis 
8 — Wesley Adair 
9 — Lieut. James Pace 
10 — Christopher Layton 



the resignation of Geo. P. Dykes as adjutant and over 
substitution to the place of Philemon C. Merrill. When the 
sick were sent to Pueblo, November 10, Standage fer- 
vently wrote, "This does in reality make solemn times for 
us, so many divisions taking place. May the God of 
Heaven protect us all." 

San Bernardino, in Sonora, was reached December 2, 
being found in ruins, "though all around us a pleasant 
valley with good water and grass." Appreciation was ex- 
pressed over the flavor of "a kind of root, baked, which the 
Spaniards called mas kurl" (mescal). Many of the cattle 
had Spanish brands on their hips, it being explained, 
"Indians had been so troublesome in times past that the 
Spaniards had to abandon the towns and vineyards, and 
cross the Cordillera Mountains, leaving their large flocks 
of cattle in the valley, thus making plenty of food for the 
Apalchas." 

In San Pedro valley were found "good horse feed and 
fish in abundance (salmon trout), large herds of wild cattle 
and plenty of antelope and some bear.''" The San Pedro 
River was especially noted as having "mill privileges in 
abundance." Here it was that Lieutenant Stoneman, acci- 
dentally shot himself in the hand. Two old deserted towns 
were passed. 

Standage tells that the Spanish soldiers had gone from 
Tucson when the Battalion arrived, but that, "we were 
kindly treated by the people, who brought flour, meal, 
tobacco and quinces to the camp for sale, and many of 
them gave such things to the soldiers. We camped about 
a half mile from the town. The Colonel suffered no private 
property to be touched, neither was it in the heart of any 
man to my knowledge to do so." 

Considering the strength of the Spanish garrison, Stand- 
age was led to exclaim that, "the Lord God of Israel would 
save his people, inasmuch as he knoweth the causes of our 
being here in the United States." Possibly it was unfair to 

21 



say that no one but the Lord knew why the soldiers were 
there, and Tucson then was not in the United States. 

The journey to the Gila River was a hard one, but the 
chronicler was compensated by seeing "the long looked-for 
country of California," which it was not. The Pimas were 
found very friendly, bringing food, which they readily 
exchanged for such things as old shirts. Standage especially 
was impressed by the eating of a watermelon, for the day 
was Christmas. January 10, 1847, at the crossing of the 
Colorado, he was detailed to the gathering of mesquite 
beans, "a kind of sweet seed that grows on a tree resembling 
the honey locust, the mules and men being very fond of 
this. The brethren use this in various ways, some grinding 
it and mixing it in bread with the flour, others making pud- 
ding, while some roast it or eat it raw." "January 27, at 
1 o'clock, we came in sight of the ocean, the great Pacific, 
which was a great sight to some, having never seen any 
portion of the briny deep before." 

California Towns and Soldier Experiences 

At San Diego, which was reached by Standage and a 
small detachment January 30, provisions were found very 
scarce, while prices were exorbitant. Sugar cost 50 cents a 
pound, so the soldier regaled himself with one-quarter of 
a pound and gathered some mustard greens to eke out his 
diet. For 26 days he had eaten almost nothing but beef. 
He purchased a little wheat from the Indians and ground 
it in a hand mill, to make some cakes, which were a treat. 

Late in April, at Los Angeles, there was a move to 
another camping ground, "as the Missouri volunteers 
(Error, New York volunteers — Author) had threatened to 
come down upon us. A few days later we were called up at 
night in order to load and fix , bayonets, as Colonel Cooke 
had sent word that an attack might be expected from 
Colonel Fremont's men before day. They had been using 
all possible means to prejudice the Spaniards and Indians 
against us." 

22 



Los Angeles made poor impression upon the soldiers in 
the Battalion. The inhabitants were called "degraded" 
and it was declared that there were almost as many grog 
shops and gambling dens as private houses. Reference is 
made to the roofs of reeds, covered with pitch from tar 
springs nearby. Incidentally, these tar "springs" in a later 
century led to development of the oil industry, that now is 
paramount in much of California, and have been found to 
contain fossil remains of wonderful sort. 

The Indians were said "to do all the labor, the Mexicans 
generally on horseback from morning till night. They are 
perhaps the greatest horsemen in the known world and very 
expert with lariat and lasso, but great gamblers." 

Food assuredly was not dear, for cattle sold for $5 a 
head. Many cattle were killed merely for hides and tallow 
and for the making of soap. 

About the most entertaining section of Standage's 
journal is that which chronicles his stay in Southern Cali- 
fornia, possibly because it gave him an opportunity to do 
something else beside tramping. There is much detail 
concerning re-enlistment, but there was general inclination 
to follow the advice of Father Pettegrew, who showed "the 
necessity of returning to the prophets of the Lord before 
going any further." 

Just before the muster-out, the soldiers were given an 
opportunity to witness a real Spanish bull fight, called "a 
scene of cruelty, savoring strongly of barbarity and in- 
dolence, though General Pico, an old Mexican commander, 
went into the ring several times on horseback and fought 
the bulls with a short spear." 

What with the hostility of the eastern volunteers, the 
downright enmity of Fremont's company and the alien 
habits of the Mexican population, the sober-minded mem- 
bers of the Battalion must have been compelled to keep 
their own society very largely while in the pueblo of Los 
Angeles, or, to give it its Spanish appellation, "El Pueblo 

23 



de Nuestra Senora la Reina de los Angeles de Porciuncula." 
Still, some of them tried to join in the diversions of the 
people of the country. On one occasion, according to His- 
torian Eldridge, there was something of a quarrel between 
Captain Hunt and Alcalde Carrillo, who had given offense 
by observing that the American officer "danced like a 
bear." The Alcalde apologized very courteously, saying 
that bears were widely known as dancers, but the breach 
was not healed. 

Christopher Layton's Soldiering. 

Another history of the Battalion especially interesting 
from an Arizona standpoint, is contained in the life of 
Christopher Layton, issued in 1911 and written by Layton's 
daughter, Mrs. Selina Layton Phillips, from data supplied 
by the Patriarch. The narrative is one of the best at hand 
in the way of literary preparation, though with frank 
statement that President Layton himself had all too little 
education for the accomplishment of such a task. 

Layton was a private soldier in Company C, under 
Capt. James Brown. There is nothing of especial novelty in 
the narrative, nor does there seem anything of prophecy 
when the Battalion passed through the Valley of the San 
Pedro in December, 1846, through a district to which 
Layton was to return, in 1883, as leader of a Mormon 
colony. 

Layton was one of the number that remained in Cali- 
fornia after the discharge of the Battalion, eventually 
rejoining the Saints, at Salt Lake, by way of his native 
land, England. 

In B. H. Roberts' very interesting little work on the 
Mormon Battalion is told this story of the later patriarch 
of the Gila settlement: 

While Colonel Cooke was overseeing the ferrying of the Battalion 
across the Colorado River, Christopher Layton rode up to the river 
on a mule, to let it drink. Colonel Cooke said to him, "Young man, I 
want you to ride across the river and carry a message for me to Cap- 

24 



tain Hunt." It being natural for the men to obey the Colonel's order, 
he (Layton) tried to ride into the river, but he had gone but a few 
steps before his mule was going in all over. So Brother Layton stopped. 
The Colonel hallooed out, "Go on, young man; go on, young man." 
But Brother Layton, on a moment's reflection, was satisfied that, if 
he attempted it, both he and his mule would stand a good chance 
to be drowned. The Colonel himself was satisfied of the same. So 
Brother Layton turned his mule and rode off, saying, as he came 
out, "Colonel, I'll see you in hell before I will drown myself and mule 
in that river." The Colonel looked at him a moment, and said to the 
bystanders, "What is that man's name?" "Christopher Layton, 
sir." "Well, he is a saucy fellow." 

That the Mormon Battalion did not always rigidly 
obey orders is shown in another story detailed by Roberts : 

While the Battalion was at Santa Fe, Colonel Cooke ordered Lot 
Smith to guard a Mexican corral, and, having a company of United 
States cavalry camped by, he told Lot if the men came to steal the 
poles to bayonet them. The men came and surrounded the corral, 
and while Lot was guarding one side, they would hitch to a pole on the 
other and ride off with it. When the Colonel saw the poles were gone, 
he asked Lot why he did not obey orders and bayonet the thieves. 
Lot replied, "If you expect me to bayonet United States troops for 
taking a pole on the enemy's ground to make a fire of, you mistake 
your man." Lot expected to be punished, and he was placed under 
guard; but nothing further was done about it. 

Western Dash of the Kearny Dragoons 

Of collateral interest is the record of the Kearny expe- 
dition. The Colonel, raised to General at Santa Fe, left 
that point September 25, 1846, with 300 dragoons, under 
Col. E. V. Sumner. The historians of the party were Lieut. 
W. H. Emory of the Corps of Topographical Engineers 
(later in charge of the Boundary Survey) and Capt. A. R. 
Johnston, the latter killed at San Pascual. Kearny was 
piloted by the noted Kit Carson, who was turned back as 
he was traveling eastward with dispatches from Fremont. 
The Gila route was taken, though there had to be a detour 
at the box canyon above the mouth of the San Pedro. 
Emory and Johnston wrote much of the friendly Pima. The 
former made prophecy, since sustained, concerning the de- 

25 



velopment of the Salt and other river valleys, and the work- 
ing of great copper deposits noted by him on the Gila, at 
Mineral Creek. The Colorado was crossed November 24. 
On December 6 the small command, weary with its 
march and illy provisioned, was attacked at San Pascual 
by Gen. Andres Pico. Two days of fighting found the 
Americans in sad plight, with eighteen killed and thirteen 
wounded. The enemy had been severely handled, but still 
barred the way to the nearby seacoast. Guide Kit Carson 
and Naval Lieutenant E. F. Beale managed to slip through 
to San Diego, there to summon help. It came to the be- 
leaguered Americans December 10, a party of 180 well- 
armed sailors and marines, sent by Commodore Stockton, 
falling upon the rear of the Mexican host, which dispersed. 
The following day, Kearny entered San Diego, thence 
proceeding northward to help in the final overthrow of 
Mexican authority within Alta California. 



26 



Chapter Three 



Heading Eastward Toward "Home" 

Muster-out of the Battalion was at Los Angeles, July 
16, 1847, just a year after enlistment, eight days before 
Brigham Young reached Great Salt Lake. The joyous 
ceremonial was rather marred by the fact that the muster- 
out officer was none other than Lieutenant Smith. There 
was an attempt to keep the entire Battalion in the service, 
both Kearny and Colonel Mason urging reenlistment. At 
the same time was an impolitic speech by Colonel Steven- 
son of the New York Volunteers. He said: "Your patriot- 
ism and obedience to your officers have done much toward 
removing the prejudices of the Government and the com- 
munity at large, and I am satisfied that another year's 
service would place you on a level with other communities." 
This speech hardly helped in inclining the men toward 
extension of a service in which it was felt all that had been 
required had been delivered. Stevenson, a politician 
rather than a soldier, seemed to have a theory that the 
Mormons were seeking reenlistment of a second battalion 
or regiment, that California might be peopled by them- 
selves. There was opposition to reenlistment among the 
elders, especially voiced by "Father" Pettegrew and by 
members Hyde and Tyler. Even promise that independent 
command would be given to Captain Hunt did not prove 
effective. Only one company was formed of men who 
were willing to remain in California for a while longer. In 
this new company were Henry G. Boyle, Henry Brizzee, 
Lot Smith and George Steele, all later residents of Arizona. 

27 



Most of the soldiers of the Battalion made haste in 
preparation to rejoin the main body of the people of their 
faith. Assuredly they had little knowledge of what was 
happening in the Rocky Mountains. On the 20th of July, 
four days before the Mormon arrival in the Salt Lake 
Valley, most of the men had been organized to travel 
"home" after what Tyler called "both the ancient and the 
modern Israelitish custom, in companies of hundreds, 
fifties and tens." The leaders were Andrew Lytle and James 
Pace, with Sergeants Hyde, Tyler and Reddick N. Allred 
as captains of fifties. 

The first intention to travel via Cajon Pass was aban- 
doned, and the companies took the northern route, via 
Sutter's Fort on the Sacramento River, to follow Fremont's 
trail across the Sierras. On the Sacramento they received 
the first news of their brethren since leaving Fort Leaven- 
worth, a year before. They learned that the Saints were 
settling the Great Salt Lake Valley, and there also was 
news of the Brannan party at San Francisco. 

With full assent from the leaders, some of the brethren 
remained in the vicinity of Sutter's Fort, where work was 
plenty, and probably half of those who went on across the 
mountains returned on receipt of advices that came to 
them at Donner Lake, at the hands of Capt. James Brown, 
of the Pueblo detachment. The Church authorities in- 
structed all who had insufficient means to remain in Cali- 
fornia and labor and to bring their earnings with them in 
the spring. Tyler, with his party, arrived in Salt Lake 
Valley October 16, to find his relatives living in a fort, 
which had all rooms opening into an enclosure, with port- 
holes for defense cut in the outer walls. 

The new company, with additional enlistment of six 
months, was placed under Capt. Daniel C. Davis, who had 
been in command of Company E. The company was 
marched to San Diego, arriving August 2. A detachment 
under Lieut. Ruel Barrus garrisoned San Luis Rey. In 

28 




BATTALION MEMBERS WHO RETURNED TO ARIZONA 



1 — Samuel H. Rogers 
2 — Henry Standage 
3 — Edward Bunker 
4 — Henry W. Brizzee 
5 — George Steele 



6 — Hyrum Judd 
7 — Samuel Thompson 
8-Wm. A. Follett 
9— Schuyler Hulett 
10 — David Pulsipher 




BATTALION MEMBERS WHO RETURNED TO ARIZONA 

1 — Rufus C Allen 2 — John Steele 

3— Reuben Allred 4— Elzada Ford Allred 5— Wm. B. Maxwell 

6— Henry G. Boyle 7— Zadok K. Judd 



San Diego the men appeared to have had little military 
duty. They were allowed to work as mechanics, repaired 
wagons, did blacksmithing and erected a bakery. They 
became very popular with the townspeople, who wanted to 
retain them as permanent residents. It was noted that the 
Mormons had conquered prejudice and had effected a 
kind of industrial revolution in languid Alta California. 

The enlistment term expired in January, but it was 
March, 1848, before the men were paid off and discharged. 
Most of the 78 members of the company went northward, 
but one party of 22, led by Henry G. Boyle, taking a wagon 
and 135 mules, started to Salt Lake by way of the Mojave 
desert, reaching its destination June 5. This would 
appear to have been a very important journey, the party 
probably being first with wagons to travel what later 
became known as the Mormon road. 

Following the very practical customs of their people, 
the members of the Battalion picked up in California a 
large quantity of seeds and grains for replanting in Utah, 
welcomed in establishing the marvelous agricultural com- 
munity there developed. Lieut. James Pace brought in the 
club-head wheat, which proved especially suited to inter- 
mountain climatic conditions. From Pueblo other members 
brought the Taos wheat, which also proved valuable. 
Daniel Tyler brought the California pea. 

Although the Author has seen little mention of it, the 
Battalion membership took to Utah much valuable infor- 
mation concerning methods of irrigation, gained at Pueblo, 
in the Rio Grande Valley and in California. While most of 
the emigrants were of the farming class, their experience 
had been wholly in the Mississippi Valley or farther east, 
where the rains alone were depended upon to furnish the 
moisture necessary for crops. 

With the Pueblo Detachment 

Capt. James Brown would have led his band from 
Pueblo as soon as the snows had melted in the passes, but 

29 



held back on receipt of information that the main body of 
Saints still was on the plains. As it was, he and his charge 
arrived at Salt Lake, July 29, 1847, five days after the 
advent of Brigham Young. Brown remained only a few 
days, setting out early in August for California, there to 
receive the pay of his command. The main body had been 
paid off at Los Angeles, July 15. On his westward way, 
Brown led a small company over the Carson route. In the 
Sierras, September 6, he met the first returning detach- 
ment of Battalion soldiers. To them he delivered letters 
from the First Presidency telling of the scarcity of food in 
the Salt Lake Valley. Sam Brannan, leader at San Fran- 
cisco, had passed, going westward, only the day before, 
giving a gloomy account of the new home of the Saints. 
So about half the Battalion men turned back to Sutter's 
Fort, presumably with Brown. Brown returned from 
Los Angeles with the pay of his men, money sorely 
needed. 

The Pueblo detachment arrived in Salt Lake with 
about fifty individuals from Mississippi added to the 150 
men and women who had been separated from the main 
body of the Battalion in New Mexico. Forty-six of the 
Battalion men accompanied President Young when he 
started back, August 8, for Winter Quarters, on the west 
side of the Missouri, five miles above Omaha, to help in 
piloting over the plains the main body of Saints. 

Captain Brown, according to a Brigham Young manu- 
script, was absent in California three months and seven 
days, returning late in November, 1847, bringing back with 
him the pay due the Pueblo contingent. Several stories were 
given concerning the amount. One was that it was about 
$5000, mainly in gold, and another that the amount was 
110,000 in Mexican doubloons. 

The Pueblo detachment had been paid last in Santa Fe 
in May, 1846. The muster-out rolls were taken by Brown 
to Paymaster Rich of Colonel Mason's command in Cali- 

30 



fornia. Pay included July 29, 1847, thirteen days after 
expiration of the term of enlistment. 

A part of the money, apparently considered as com- 
munity property, was used early in 1848 in the purchase 
of a tract of land, about twenty miles square, at the mouth 
of Weber Canyon. The sum of $1950, cash, was paid to 
one Goodyear, who claimed to own a Mexican grant, but 
who afterward proved to have only a squatter right. The 
present city of Ogden is on this same tract. 

California Comments on the Battalion 

Very generally there has come down evidence that the 
men of the Battalion were of very decent sort. Colonel 
Mason, commanding the California military department, 
in June, 1847, made report to the Adjutant General of the 
Army: 

Of the service of this Battalion, of their patience, subordination 
and general good conduct you have already heard; and I take great 
pleasure in adding that as a body of men they have religiously respect- 
ed the rights and feelings of these conquered people, and not a syllable 
of complaint has reached my ears of a single insult offered or outrage 
done by a Mormon volunteer. So high an opinion did I entertain of 
the Battalion and of their especial fitness for the duties now performed 
by the garrisons in this country that I made strenuous efforts to 
engage their services for another year. 

With reference to the Mormon Battalion, Father Engel- 
hardt, in his "Missions and Missionaries of California," 
wrote : 

It is not likely that these Mormons, independent of United States 
and military regulations, would have wantonly destroyed any part of 
the church property or church fixtures during their several months' 
stay at San Luis Rey. Whatever some of the moral tenets held by 
them in those days, the Mormons, to all appearances, were a God- 
fearing body, who, .... manifested some respect for the religious 
convictions and feelings of other men, notably of the Catholics. It 
is, therefore, highly improbable that they . . . raved against . . . religious 
emblems found in the missions of California. On the contrary, they 
appear to have let everything alone, even made repairs, and minded 
their own duties to their Creator, in that they practiced their religion 
openly whithersoever they went .... 

31 



Leaders of the Battalion 

Colonel Cooke for a while was in command of the 
southern half of Alta California, incidentally coming into 
a part of the row created when Fremont laid claim upon the 
governorship of the Territory. In this his men were af- 
fected to a degree, for Fremont's father-in-law and patron, 
Senator Benton, was believed one of the bitterest foes of 
the Mormon people. 

Cooke resigned as lieutenant-colonel of volunteers, ef- 
fective May 13, 1847, he thus leaving the Battalion before 
the date of its discharge. He accompanied General Kearny 
Ton an 83-day ride eastward, returning to Fort Leavenworth 
' August 22. With them was Fremont, arrested, charged 
with mutiny in refusing to acknowledge the authority of 
I Kearny in California. He was found guilty, but a sentence 
■ of dismissal from the army was remitted by President 
\ Polk. Fremont immediately resigned from the service. 
Cooke, in 1857-8, led the cavalry of Gen. Albert Sidney 
Johnston's expedition to Utah and there is a memorandum 
that, when his regiment marched through the streets of 
Salt Lake City, the Colonel rode with uncovered head, 
"out of respect to the brave men of the Mormon Bat- 
talion he had commanded in their march to the Pacific." 
In the Civil War he was a brigadier-general, with brevet of 
major-general in 1865. 

Lieut. A. J. Smith, whose disciplinary ideas may have 
been too severe for a command that started with such 
small idea of discipline, nevertheless proved a brave and 
skillful officer. He rose in 1864 to be major-general of 
volunteers and was brevetted major-general of regulars 
for distinguished service in command of the Sixteenth 
army corps, under General Thomas, at the battle of Nash- 
ville. 

Lieut. George Stoneman in 1854 commanded a dragoon 
escort for Lieut. J. G. Parke, who laid out a railroad route 
across Arizona, from the Pima villages through Tucson, 

32 



much on the line of the present Southern Pacific. He was 
a captain, commanding Fort Brown, Texas, at the out- 
break of the Civil War, in which he rose to the rank of 
major-general of volunteers, with fame in the Virginia 
campaign as chief of cavalry of the Army of the Potomac, 
in which he later was a division and corps commander. 
In 1870 and 1871 he commanded the military department 
of Arizona, during the time of the Old Fort Grant mas- 
sacre, and his name is still borne by the Stoneman Grade, 
above Silver King, a trail built by him to better command 
the Indian-infested mountains beyond. He was Democratic 
Governor of California from 1883 to 1887. A son, Geo. 
J. Stoneman, for years resided in Phoenix. 

Lieut. Edw. F. Beale, who helped save the Kearny 
expedition near San Diego was a member of a party that 
had been sent from San Diego to meet the dragoons. The 
following March, he and Carson carried dispatches east, 
taking the Gila route. In August, 1848, again in Cali- 
fornia, he was made the naval messenger to advise Wash- 
ington of the discovery of gold in California. In 1857 he 
made a remarkable survey of the 35th parallel across 
Arizona, using camels, and he repeated the trip in 1859. 

The camels had been brought from Syria. They carried 
three times a mule load and were declared ideal for pioneer 
transportation uses. But Beale was alone in their praise 
and the camels eventually were turned loose on the plains. 
He was minister to Austria in 1878. 

Both adjutants of the Mormon Battalion later became 
permanent residents of Arizona. Geo. P. Dykes for years 
was a resident of Mesa, where he died in 1888, at the age 
of 83. Philemon C. Merrill, in 1881, was one of the cus- 
todians of the Utah stone, sent from Salt Lake, for in- 
sertion in the Washington Monument, in Washington. 
He and his family constituted the larger part of the D. W. 
Jones party that founded Lehi in March, 1877, and it 
was he, who, soon thereafter, led in the settlement of St. 

33 



David in the San Pedro Valley, on the route of the Mormon 
Battalion march. He died at San Jose, in the Gila 
Valley, September 15, 1904. 

Pauline Weaver, the principal guide, was a Frenchman, 
who had been in the Southwest at least since 1832, when he 
visited the Pima villages and Casa Grande. In 1862, while 
trapping, he was one of the discoverers of the La Paz gold 
diggings. The following year he was with the Peeples party 
that found gold on Rich Hill, in central Arizona. There- 
after he was an army scout. He died at Camp Verde in 1866. 

Antoine LeRoux, the other guide named, was with the 
Whipple expedition across northern Arizona in 1853. His 
name is borne by LeRoux Springs, northwest of Flagstaff, 
and by LeRoux Wash, near Holbrook. 

Passing of the Battalion Membership 

No member of the Mormon Battalion now is living. 
The last to pass was Harley Mowrey, private Co. C, 
who died in his home in Vernal, Utah, October 21, 1920, 
at the age of 98. He was one of the men sent from New 
Mexico to Pueblo and who arrived at Salt Lake a few days 
after the Pioneers. On the way to Salt Lake he married 
the widow of another Battalion member, Martha Jane 
Sharp, who survives, as well as seven children, 41 grand- 
children, 94 great-grandchildren and thirty of the latest 
generation. Mowrey and wife were members of the San 
Bernardino colony. 

A Memorial of Noble Conception 

On the Capitol grounds at Salt Lake soon is to arise a 
noble memorial of the service of the Mormon Battalion. 
The legislature of Utah has voted toward the purpose 
$100,000, contingent upon the contribution of a similar 
sum at large. A State Monument Commission has been 
created, headed by B. H. Roberts, and this organization 
has been extended to all parts of Utah, Idaho and Arizona. 

In the 1921 session of the Arizona Legislature was voted 

34 



a contribution to the Battalion Monument Fund of $2500, 
this with expression of State pride in the achievement that 
meant so much to the Southwest and Pacific Coast. 

From nineteen designs submitted have been selected 
the plans of G. P. Riswold. A condensed description of 
the monument is contained in a report of the Commission : 

The base is in triangular form, with concave sides and rounded 
corners. A bronze figure of a Battalion man is mounted upon the front 
corner. Flanking him on two sides of the triangle are: cut in high 
relief, on the left, the scene of the enlistment of the Battalion under 
the flag of the United States of America; on the right a scene of the 
march, where the men are assisting in pulling the wagons of their 
train up and over a precipitous ascent, while still others are ahead, 
widening a cut to permit the passage of the wagons between the out- 
jutting rocks. The background is a representation of mountains of 
the character through which the Battalion and its train passed on its 
journey to the Pacific. 

Just below the peak, in the center and in front of it, is chiseled a 
beautiful head and upper part of a woman, symbolizing the "Spirit 
of the West." She personifies the impulsive power and motive force 
that sustained these Battalion men, and led them, as a vanguard of 
civilization, across the trackless plains and through the difficult de- 
files and passes of the mountains. The idea of the sculptor in the 
"Spirit of the West" is a magnificent conception and should dominate 
the whole monument. 

The bronze figure of the Battalion man is dignified, strong and 
reverential. He excellently typifies that band of pioneer soldiers 
which broke a way through the rugged mountains and over trackless 
wastes. 

Hovering over and above him, the beautiful female figure, with 
an air of solicitous care, guards him in his reverie. Her face stands 
out in full relief, the hair and diaphanous drapery waft back, min- 
gling with the clouds, while the figure fades into dim outline in the 
massive peaks and mountains, seeming to pervade the air and the 
soil with her very soul. 

Battalion Men Who Became Arizonans 

Of the Battalion members, 33 are known to have 
become later residents of Arizona, with addition of one of 
the women who had accompanied the Battalion to Santa 
Fe and who had wintered at Pueblo. There is gratification 

35 



over the fact that it has been found possible to secure 
photographs of nearly all the 33. Reproduction of these 
photographs accompanies this chapter. When this work 
was begun, only about ten Battalion members could be 
located as having been resident in this State. Some of those 
who came back to Arizona were notable in their day, for 
all of them now have made the last march of humanity. 

Jas. S. Brown, who helped find gold in California, was 
an early Indian missionary on the Muddy and in north- 
eastern Arizona. Edward Bunker founded Bunkerville, a 
Virgin River settlement, and later died on the San Pedro, 
at St. David. Geo. P. Dykes, who was the first adjutant of 
the Battalion, did service for his Church in 1849 and 1850 
in Great Britain and Denmark. Philemon C. Merrill, who 
succeeded Dykes as adjutant, was one of the most promi- 
nent of the pioneers of the San Pedro and Gila valleys. 
There is special mention, elsewhere, of Christopher Lay ton. 
In the same district, at Thatcher, lived and died Lieut. 
James Pace. Henry Standage was one of the first settlers 
of Alma Ward, near Mesa. Lot Smith, one of the vanguard 
in missionary work in northeastern Arizona and a leader 
in the settlement of the Little Colorado Valley, was slain 
by one of the Indians to whose service he had dedicated 
himself. Henry W. Brizzee was a leading pioneer of Mesa. 
Henry G. Boyle became the first president of the Southern 
States mission of his church, and was so impressed with the 
view he had of Arizona, in Battalion days, that, early in 
1877, he sent into eastern Arizona a party of Arkansas 
immigrants. Adair, in southern Navajo County, was 
named after a Battalion member. 

A complete list of Arizona Battalion members follows: 

Wesley Adair, Co. C. — Showlow. 

Rufus C. Allen, Co. A. — Las Vegas. 

Reuben W. Allred, Co. A. — Pima. 

Mrs. Elzada Ford Allred — Accompanied husband. 

Henry G. Boyle, Co. C. — Pima. 

Henry W. Brizzee, Co. D. — Mesa. 

36 






Wwm 




THE MORMON BATTALION MONUMENT 

Proposed to be erected at a cost of $200,000 on the Utah State Capitol 

Grounds. 



"9-1 i t ' j i* 5 - *'.•• •:! 

.1 j i*- $ i 




SJjQ -q*^g I * 



OLD SPANISH TOWN OF TUBAC 

Map made 1754. Where a Mormon Colony located in the fall of 1851; 
42 miles south of Tucson. 



James S. Brown, Co. D. — Moen Copie. 

Edward Bunker, Co. E. — St. David. 

George P. Dykes, Co. D. — Mesa. 

Wm. A. Follett, Co. E— Near Showlow. 

Schuyler Hulett, Co. A. — Phoenix. 

John Hunt — Snowflake — Accompanied his father, Capt. 

Jefferson Hunt. 
Marshall (Martial) Hunt, Co. A. — Snowflake. 
Wm. J. Johnston, Co. C. — Mesa. 
Nathaniel V. Jones, Co. D. — Las Vegas. 
Hyrum Judd, Co. E. — Sunset and Pima. 
Zadok Judd, Co. E. — Fredonia. 
Christopher Layton, Co. C. — Thatcher. 
Samuel Lewis, Co. C. — Thatcher. 
Wm. B. Maxwell, Co. D. — Springerville. 
Wm. C. McClellan, Co. E.— Sunset. 
Philemon C. Merrill, Co. B. — Pima. 
James Pace, Co. E. — Thatcher. 
Wilson D. Pace, Co. E.— Thatcher. 
Sanford Porter, Co. E. — Sunset. 
Wm. C. Prous (Prows), Co. B. — Mesa. 
David Pulsipher, Co. C. — Concho. 
Samuel H. Rogers, Co. B. — Snowflake. 
Henry Standage, Co. E. — Mesa. 
George E. Steele, Co. A. — Mesa. 
John Steele, Co. D. — Moen Copie. 
Lot Smith, Co. E. — Sunset and Tuba. 
Samuel Thompson, Co. C. — Mesa. 



37 



Chapter Four 



The Brooklyn Party at San Francisco 

The members of the Mormon Battalion were far from 
being the first of their faith to tread the golden sands of 
California. Somehow, in the divine ordering of things 
mundane, the Mormons generally were very near the van 
of Anglo-Saxon settlement of the States west of the Rockies. 
Thus it happened that on July 29, 1846, only three weeks 
after the American naval occupation of the harbor, there 
anchored inside the Golden Gate the good ship Brooklyn, 
that had brought from New York 238 passengers, mainly 
Saints, the first American contribution of material size to 
the population of the embarcadero of Yerba Buena, where 
now is the lower business section of the stately city of 
San Francisco. 

The Brooklyn, of 450 tons burden, had sailed from New 
York February 4, 1846, the date happening to be the same 
as that on which began the exodus from Nauvoo westward. 
The voyage was an authorized expedition, counseled by 
President Brigham Young and his advisers in the early 
winter. At one time it was expected that thousands would 
take the water route to the west shore, on their way to the 
Promised Land. Elder Samuel Brannan was in charge of 
the first company, which mainly consisted of American 
farmer folk from the eastern and middle-western States. 
The ship had been chartered for $1200 a month and port 
charges. Fare had been set at $50 for all above fourteen 
years and half-fare for children above five. Addition was 
made of $25 for provisions. The passengers embraced 

38 



seventy men, 68 women and about 100 children. There was 
a freight of farming implements and tools, seeds, a printing 
press, many school books, etc. 

The voyage appears to have been even a pleasant one, 
though with a few notations of sickness, deaths and births 
and of trials that set a small number of the passengers 
aside from the Church. Around Cape Horn and as far as 
the Robinson Crusoe island of Juan Fernandez, off the 
Chilian coast, the seas were calm. Thereafter were two 
storms of serious sort, but without phase of disaster to the 
pilgrims. The next stop was at Honolulu, on the Hawaiian 
Islands, thence the course being fair for the Golden Gate. 

When Captain Richardson dropped his anchors in the 
cove of Yerba Buena it appears to have been the first time 
that the emigrants appreciated they had arrived at any- 
thing save a colony of old Mexico. But when a naval 
officer boarded the ship and advised the passengers they 
were in the United States, "there arose a hearty cheer," 
though Brannan has been quoted as hardly pleased over 
the sight of the Stars and Stripes. 

Beginnings of a Great City 

As written by Augusta Joyce Cocheron, one of the 

emigrants : 

They crowded upon the deck, women and children, questioning 
husbands and fathers, and studied the picture before them — they 
would never see it just the same again — as the foggy curtains furled 
towards the azure ceiling. How it imprinted itself upon their minds! 
A long sandy beach strewn with hides and skeletons of slaughtered 
cattle, a few scrubby oaks, farther back low sand hills rising behind 
each other as a background to a few old shanties that leaned away from 
the wind, an old adobe barracks, a few donkeys plodding dejectedly 
along beneath towering bundles of wood, a few loungers stretched 
lazily upon the beach as though nothing could astonish them; and 
between the picture and the emigrants still loomed up here and there, 
at the first sight more distinctly, the black vessels — whaling ships 
and sloops of war — that was all, and that was Yerba Buena, now 
San Francisco, the landing place for the pilgrims of faith. 

In John P. Young's "Journalism in California" is recited : 

39 



It is not without significance that the awakening of Yerba Buena 
did not occur till the advent of the printing press. From the day 
when Leese built his store in 1836 till the arrival of the Mormon colony 
on July 31, 1846, the village retained all the peculiarities of a poverty- 
stricken settlement of the Spanish-American type. From that time 
forward changes began to occur indicative of advancement and it is 
impossible to disassociate them from the fact that a part of the Brook- 
lyn's cargo was a press and a font of type, and that the 238 colonists 
aboard that vessel and others who found their way to the little town, 
brought with them books — more, one careful writer tells us, than could 
be found at the time in all the rest of the Territory put together. 

Brannan and his California Star had a part in the very 
naming of San Francisco. This occurred January 30, 1847, 
rather hurried by discovery of the fact that a rival settle- 
ment on the upper bay proposed to take the name. So 
there was formal announcement in the Star that, from that 
date forward, there would be abandonment of the name 
Yerba Buena, as local and appertaining only to the cove, 
and adoption of the name of San Francisco. This announce- 
ment was signed by the Alcalde, Lieut. Washington A. 
Bartlett, who had been detached by Capt. J. B. Mont- 
gomery from the man-of-war Portsmouth on September 15, 
1846, and who rejoined his ship the following February. 

One of the Brooklyn's passengers in later years became 
a leader in the settlement of Mesa, Arizona. He was Geo. 
W. Sirrine, a millwright, whose history has been preserved 
by a son, Warren L. Sirrine of Mesa. The elder Sirrine was 
married on the ship, of which and its voyage he left many 
interesting tales, one being of a drift to the southward on 
beating around Cape Horn, till icebergs loomed and the 
men had to be detailed 4x) the task of beating the rigging 
with clubs to rid it of ice. When danger threatened there 
was resort to prayer, but work soon followed as the pas- 
sengers bore a hand with the crew. 

Sirrine, who had had police experience in the East, was 
of large assistance to Brannan in San Francisco, where the 
rougher element for a time seized control, taking property 
at will and shooting down all who might disagree with their 

40 



sway. It was he who arrested Jack Powers, leader of the 
outlaws, in a meeting that was being addressed by Brannan, 
and who helped in the provision of evidence under which 
the naval authorities eliminated over fifty of the desperados, 
some of them shipping on the war vessels in port. Some 
of the Mormons still had a part of their passage money 
unpaid and these promptly proceeded to find employment 
to satisfy their debt. The pilgrims' loyalty appears to have 
been of the highest. They had purchased arms in Hono- 
lulu and had had some drill on the passage thence. At least 
on one occasion, they rallied in San Francisco when alarm 
sounded that hostile Mexicans might attack. • 

According to Eldridge, historian of San Francisco: 
The landing of the Mormons more than doubled the population 
of Yerba Buena. They camped for a time on the beach and the 
vacant lots, then some went to the Marin forests to work as lumber- 
men, some were housed in the old Mission buildings and others in 
Richardson's Casa Grande (big house) on Dupont Street. They 
were honest and industrious people and all sought work wherever 
they could find it. 

Brannan's Hope of Pacific Empire 

A party of twenty pioneers was sent over to the San 
Joaquin Valley, to found the settlement of New Hope, or 
Stanislaus City, on the lower Stanislaus River, but the 
greater number for a while remained on the bay, making 
San Francisco, according to Bancroft, "for a time very 
largely a Mormon town. All bear witness to the orderly 
and moral conduct of the Saints, both on land and sea. 
They were honest and industrious citizens, even if clannish 
and peculiar." There was some complaint against Brannan, 
charged with working the Church membership for his own 
personal benefit. 

New Hope had development that comprised a log house, 
a sawmill and the cultivation of eighty acres of land. It was 
abandoned in the fall, after word had been received that the 
main body of the Saints, traveling overland, would settle 
in the valley of the Great Salt Lake. Brannan pushed with 

41 



vigor his idea that the proper location would be in Cali- 
fornia. He started eastward to present this argument and 
met the western migration at Green River in July, and un- 
successfully argued with Brigham Young, returning with 
the vanguard as far as Salt Lake. His return to San Fran- 
cisco was in September, on his way there being encounter 
with several parties from the Mormon Battalion, to them 
Brannan communicating rather gloomy ideas concerning 
the new site of Zion. 

It is one of the many remarkable evidences of the 
strength of the Mormon religious spirit that only 45 adults 
of the Brooklyn party, with their children, remained in 
California, even after the discovery of gold. The others 
made their way across the Sierra Nevadas and the deserts, 
to join their people in the intermountain valley. A few were 
cut off from the Church. These included Brannan, who 
gathered large wealth, but who died, poor, in Mexico, in 1889. 

There might be speculation over what would have been 
the fate of the Mormon Church had Brannan's idea pre- 
vailed and the tide of the Nauvoo exodus continued to 
California. Probably the individual pilgrims thereby might 
have amassed worldly wealth. Possibly there might have 
been established in the California valleys even richer 
Mormon settlements than those that now dot the map of 
the intermountain region. But that such a course would 
have been relatively disruptive of the basic plans of the 
leaders there can be no doubt, and it is also without 
doubt that under a condition of greater material wealth 
there would have been diminished spiritual interest. 

Possibly even better was the grasp upon the people 
shown in Utah at the time of the passage of the California 
emigrants, in trains of hypnotized groups all crazed by lust 
for the gold assumed to be in California for the gathering. 
The Mormons sold them provisions and helped them on 
their way, yet added few to their numbers. 

In after years, President Lorenzo Snow, referring to 

42 



the Brannan effort, stated his belief that it would have been 
nothing short of disastrous to the Church had the people 
gone to California before they had become grounded in the 
faith. They needed just the experiences they had had in 
the valley of Salt Lake, where home-making was the pre- 
dominant thought and where wealth later came on a more 
permanent basis. 

Present at the Discovery of Gold 

By a remarkable freak of fortune, about forty of the 
members of the Mormon Battalion discharged at Los 
Angeles, were on hand at the time of the discovery of gold 
in California. Divided into companies, they had made their 
way northward, expecting to pass the Sierras before the 
coming of snow. They found work at Sutter's Fort and 
nearby in the building of a sawmill and a grist-mill and 
six of them (out of nine employees) actually participated 
in the historic picking up of chunks of gold from the tail- 
race they had dug under the direction of J. W. Marshall. 
Sutter in after years wrote: "The Mormons did not leave 
my mill unfinished, but they got the gold fever like every- 
body else." They mined especially on what, to this day, 
is known as Mormon Island, on the American River, and 
undoubtedly the wealth they later took across the moun- 
tains did much toward laying a substantial foundation 
for the Zion established in the wilderness. 

Henry W. Bigler, of the gold discovery party, kept a 
careful journal of his California experiences, a journal from 
which Bancroft makes many excerpts. An odd error is in 
the indexing of the Bancroft volumes on California, Henry 
W. Bigler being confused with John Bigler. The latter was 
governor of California in 1852-55. A truckling California 
legislature unsuccessfully tried to fasten his name upon 
Lake Tahoe. But the Mormon pioneer turned his back 
upon the golden sands after only a few months of digging, 
and later, for years, was connected with the Mormon 
temple at St. George, Utah. 

43 



January 24, 1898, four of the six returned to San 
Francisco, guests of the State of California in its celebra- 
tion of the fiftieth anniversary of the discovery of gold. 
They were Henry W. Bigler, Jas. S. Brown, Wm. J. John- 
ston and Azariah Smith. A group photograph, then taken, 
is reproduced in this volume. The others of the Mormon 
gold discoverers, Alexander Stephens and James Barger, 
had died before that date. 

Looking Toward Southern California 

All through the Church administration led by Brigham 
Young there was evidence of well-defined intention to spread 
the Church influence southward into Mexico and, possibly 
tracking back the steps of the Nephites and Lamanites, 
to work even into South America. There seemed an at- 
traction in the enormous agricultural possibilities of South- 
ern California. The long-headed Church President, figuring 
the commercial and agricultural advantages that lay in 
the Southwest, practically paved the way for the connec- 
tion that since has come by rail with Los Angeles. It 
naturally resulted that the old Spanish trail that had been 
traversed by Dominguez and Escalante in 1776 was ex- 
tended on down the Virgin River toward the southwest and 
soon became known as the Mormon Road. Over this road 
there was much travel. It was taken by emigrants bound 
from the East for California and proved the safest at all 
seasons of the year. It was used by the Mormons in re- 
stocking their herds and in securing supplies and for a while 
there was belief that the Colorado River could be utilized 
as a means of connecting steamboat transportation with the 
wagons that should haul from Callville, 350 miles from 
Salt Lake. 

In 1851, nearly four years after the settlement at Salt 
Lake, President Young made suggestion that a company 
be organized, of possibly a score of families, to settle below 
Cajon Pass and cultivate the grape, olive, sugar cane and 
cotton and to found a station on a proposed Pacific mail 

44 



route. There was expectation that the settlement later 
would be a gathering place for the Saints who might come 
from the islands of the Pacific, and even from Europe. The 
idea proved immensely popular, the suggestion having 
come after a typical Salt Lake winter, and the pilgrimage 
embraced about 500 individuals. President Young, at the 
time of their leaving, March 24, said he "was sick at the 
sight of so many Saints running to California, chiefly after 
the gods of this earth" and he expressed himself unable to 
address them. Arrival at San Bernardino was in June. 

The Author has been fortunate in securing personal tes- 
timony from a member of this migration, Collins R. Hakes, 
who later was President of the Maricopa Stake at Mesa, 
and, later, head of the Bluewater settlement in New 
Mexico. The hegira was led by Amasa M. Lyman and 
Chas. C. Rich, prominent Mormon pioneers. 

A short distance below Cajon Pass, Lyman and Rich 
in September purchased the Lugo ranch of nine square 
leagues, including an abandoned mission. They agreed to 
pay $77,500 in deferred payments, though the total sum 
rose eventually to $140,000. Even at that, this must be 
accounted a very reasonable price for nearly thirty square 
miles of land in the present wonderful valley of San 
Bernardino. 

Forced From the Southland 

With those of the Carson Valley, the California breth- 
ren mainly returned to Utah, late in 1857, or early in 1858, 
at the time of the Johnston invasion. Mr. Hakes gave 
additional details. On September 11, 1857, occurred the 
Mountain Meadows massacre in the southwest corner of 
Utah. This outrage, by a band of outlaws, emphatically 
discountenanced by the Church authorities and repugnant 
to Church doctrines, which denounce useless shedding of 
blood, was promptly charged, on the Pacific and, indeed, 
all over the Union, as something for which the Mormon 
organization itself was responsible. So it happened that, in 

45 



December, 1857, J. Riley Morse, of the colony, rode 
southward post haste from Sacramento with the news that 
200 mountain vigilantes were on their way to run the Mor- 
mons out of California. Not wishing to fight and not 
wishing to subject their families to abuse, about 400 of the 
San Bernardino settlers, within a few weeks, started for 
southern Utah, leaving only about twenty families. The 
news of this departure went to the Californians and they 
returned to their homes without completing their pro- 
jected purpose. Many Church and coast references tell of 
the "recall" of the San Bernardino settlers, but Hakes' 
story appears ample in furnishing a reason for the depar- 
ture. Many of these San Bernardino pioneers later came 
into Arizona. Those who remained prospered, and many of 
the families still are represented by descendants now in 
the Californian city. The settlement is believed to have 
been the first agricultural colony founded by persons of 
Anglo-Saxon descent in Southern California. 

How Sirrine Saved the Gold 

Geo. W. Sirrine, later of Mesa, had an important part 
in the details of the San Bernardino ranch purchase. Amasa 
M. Lyman and Chas. C. Rich went to San Francisco for 
the money needed for the first payment. They selected 
Sirrine to be their money carrier, entrusting him with 
$16,000, much of it in gold, the money presumably secured 
through Brannan. Sirrine took ship southward for San 
Pedro or Wilmington, carrying a carpenter chest in which 
the money was concealed in a pair of rubber boots, which 
he threw on the deck, with apparent carelessness, while 
his effects were searched by a couple of very rough charac- 
ters. Delivery of the money was made without further 
incident of note. Sirrine helped survey the San Bernardino 
townsite, built a grist mill and operated it, logged at Bear 
Lake and freighted on the Mormon road. Charles Crismon, 
a skillful miller, also a central Arizona pioneer, for a while 
was associated with him. Crismon also built a sawmill in 

46 



nearby mountains. Sirrine spent his San Bernardino 
earnings, about $10,000, in attempted development of a 
seam of coal on Point Loma, near San Diego, sinking a 
shaft 183 feet deep. He left California in 1858, taking with 
him to Salt Lake a wagonload of honey. In a biography 
of Charles Crismon, Jr., is found a claim that the elder 
Crismon took the first bees to Utah, from San Bernardino, 
in 1863. This may have added importance in view of the 
fact that Utah now is known as the Beehive State. 



47 



Chapter Five 



0% £$tzrtt xd ^B$&ergt 

A Vast Intermountain Commonwealth 

Probably unknown to a majority of Arizonans is the 
fact that the area of this State once was included within 
the State of Deseret, the domain the early Mormons laid 
out for themselves in the western wilds. The State of 
Deseret was a natural sort of entity, with a governor, with 
courts, peace officers and a militia. It was a great dream, 
yet a dream that had being and substance for a material 
stretch of time. Undoubtedly its conception was with Brig- 
ham Young, whose prophetic vision pictured the day when, 
under Mormon auspices, there would be development of 
the entire enormous basin of the Colorado River, with 
seaports on the Pacific. The name was not based upon the 
word "desert." It is a Book of Mormon designation for 
"honey bee." 

This State of Deseret was a strictly Mormon institu- 
tion, headed by the Church authorities and with the bishops 
of all the wards ex-officio magistrates. At the same time, 
there should be understanding that in nowise was it an- 
tagonistic to the government of the United States. It was 
a grand plan, under which there was hope that, with a 
population at the time of about 15,000, there might be 
admission of the intermountain region into the union of 
States. 

The movement for the new State started with a call 
issued in 1849, addressed to all citizens of that portion of 
California lying east of the Sierra Nevada Mountains. 
There was a convention in March, probably attended by 

48 



very few outside the Church, despite the broadness of the 
plan. In the preamble of the constitution adopted there 
was recitation that Congress had failed to provide any- 
civil government, so necessary for the peace, security and 
prosperity of society, that "all political power is inherent 
in the people, and governments instituted for their pro- 
tection, security and benefit should emanate from the same." 
Therefore, there was recommendation of a constitution 
until the Congress should provide other government and 
admit the new State into the Union. There was expression 
of gratitude to the Supreme Being for blessings enjoyed 
and submission to the national government freely was 
acknowledged. 

Boundary Lines Established 

Deseret was to have boundaries as follows: 

Commencing at the 33d parallel of north latitude, where it crosses 
the 108th deg. of longitude west of Greenwich; thence running south 
and west to the boundary of Mexico; thence west to and down the main 
channel of the Gila River (or the northern line of Mexico), and on the 
northern boundary of Lower California to the Pacific Ocean; thence 
along the coast northwesterly to 118 degrees, 30 minutes of west 
longitude; thence north to where said line intersects the dividing 
ridge of the Sierra Nevada Mountains; thence north along the sum- 
mit of the Sierra Nevada Mountains to the dividing range of moun- 
tains that separate the waters flowing into the Columbia from the 
waters running into the Great Basin; thence easterly along the divid- 
ing range of mountains that separate said waters flowing into the 
Columbia River on the north, from the waters flowing into the Great 
Basin on the south, to the summit of the Wind River chain of mountains; 
thence southeast and south by the dividing range of mountains that 
separate the waters flowing into the Gulf of Mexico from the waters 
flowing into the Gulf of California, to the place of beginning, as set 
forth in a map drawn by Charles Preuss, and published by order of 
the Senate of the United States in 1848. 

This description needs some explanation. The point of 
beginning, as set forth, was at the headwaters of the Gila 
River near the Mexican line, which then, and until the Gads- 
den Purchase in 1854, followed down the Gila River to the 



49 



Colorado. At that time the boundary between Upper and 
Lower California had been established to the point below 
San Diego, which thus became included within the terri- 
tory claimed. Here, naturally, there was inclusion of 
practically all Southern California to a point near Santa 
Barbara. Thence the line ran northward and inland to the 
summit of the Sierra Nevadas, not far from Mt. Whitney. 
It followed the Sierra Nevadas to the northwestward, well 
within the present California line, up into northwestern 
Nevada, thence eastward through southern Idaho and 
Wyoming to about South Pass, where the eastern line was 
taken up southward, along the summit of the Rockies to 
the point of beginning. So, there was general inclusion of 
that part of California lying east of the Sierras, of all south- 
ern California, all Nevada and Utah, the southern por- 
tions of Oregon and Idaho, southwestern Wyoming, western 
Colorado, not reaching as far as Denver, western New 
Mexico and all Arizona north of the Gila. 

There can be no doubt that the region embraced, 
probably too large for a State under modern conditions, 
at that time was as logical a division as could have been 
made, considering the semi-arid climatic conditions, natural 
boundaries, generally by great mountain ranges, a single 
watershed, that of the Colorado River, and, in addition to 
all these, the highway outlet to the Pacific Ocean, to the 
southwest, through a country where the mountains broke 
away, along the course of the Colorado, even then demon- 
strated the most feasible route from Great Salt Lake City 
to the ocean. 

Segregation of the Western Territories 

At no time was there more than assumption by this 
central Salt Lake government of authority over any part 
of the area of the State of Deseret, save within the central 
Utah district, where the settlers, less than two years estab- 
lished, were striving to carve out homes in what was to be 
the nucleus of this commonwealth of wondrous proportions. 

50 




51 



There was nothing very unusual about the constitution. 
It was along the ordinary line of such documents, though 
the justices of the Supreme Court at first were chosen by 
the Legislature. Brigham Young was the first Governor, 
Willard Richards was Secretary and Heber C. Kimball 
Chief Justice. 

The first Legislature met July 2, 1849, at Great Salt 
Lake City and supported an application to Congress for 
the organization of a territorial government. The bound- 
aries of the Territory of Deseret were somewhat changed 
from the original. The northern line was to be the southern 
line of Oregon and to the east there was to be inclusion of 
most of the present State of Colorado. Another memorial, 
soon thereafter, asked admission as a full State and still 
another plan, later proposed, was that Deseret and Cali- 
fornia be admitted as a single State, with power to separate 
thereafter. This suggestion was not well received in Cali- 
fornia and had short life. 

September 9, 1850, President Millard Fillmore signed a 
bill creating the Territory of Utah, to be bounded on the 
west by California, on the north by Oregon, on the east 
by the summit of the Rocky Mountains and on the south 
by the 37th parallel of north latitude. South of this parallel 
there had been recognition of New Mexico, which in- 
cluded the present Arizona. Thus was denial of the dream 
of an empire state that should embrace the entire inter- 
mountain region. 



52 



Chapter Six 



Old Spanish Trail Through Utah 

There can be little more than speculation concerning 
the extent of the use of the old Spanish Trail, through 
southern Utah, by the Spaniards. It is known, however, 
that considerable travel passed over it between Santa Fe 
and the California missions and settlements. In winter 
there was the disadvantage of snow in the Rockies and in 
summer were the aridity and heat of the Mohave desert. 
In Utah was danger from the Utes and farther westward 
from the Paiutes, but expeditions went well armed and 
exercised incessant watchfulness. 

The much more direct route across Arizona on the 35th 
parallel was used by few Spaniards, though assuredly 
easier than that northward around the Canyon of the 
Colorado River. This direct route was traversed in 1598 
by Juan de Onate, New Mexico's first Spanish governor, 
and, in 1776, Father Garces went from the Colorado east- 
ward to the Hopi villages. There was travel over what 
became known as the "Road of the Bishop" from Santa Fe 
to the Zuni and Hopi towns, but not beyond. Possibly the 
preference for the San Juan- Virgin route lay in the fact 
that it had practicable river fords. 

This old Spanish Trail from Santa Fe to Los Angeles, 
undoubtedly was over a succession of aboriginal highways. 
The first Europeans to follow it were the Franciscan friars 
Escalante and Dominguez, in 1776. They took a route 
running northwest from Taos, New Mexico, through the 
San Juan country into Utah as far as Utah Lake, not 

53 



reaching Great Salt Lake, and thence to the southwest 
through the Sevier Valley to the upper waters of the Virgin 
hoping to work through to California. They had an in- 
telligent idea concerning the extent of the Grand Canyon 
of the Colorado and knew there could be no crossing for 
several hundred miles. After traveling down the Santa 
Clara and Virgin to about where the Arizona line now is, 
they turned eastward again, probably because of lack of 
supplies and fear of the desert. Their travel eastward was 
not far from the 37th parallel on either side and their 
Indian guides finally led them, by way of the mouth of 
the Paria, to the Ute ford of the Colorado, now known as 
the Crossing of the Fathers. Thence, crossing the river 
November 8, 1776, they made their way to the Hopi 
villages and back to the Rio Grande, finishing one of the 
most notable exploring trips ever known in the west. It 
is interesting to consider how, nearly a century later, the 
"Pathfinder," John C. Fremont, thought himself on a new 
line of discovery when he took much the same road west- 
ward through the passes of the Rockies. 

This Spanish Trail is outlined on a fur-trade map in the 
Bancroft Library, covering the period from 1807 to 1843. 
No road is marked across the present area of Arizona. The 
Spanish Trail seems to have been considered as the western 
extension of the Santa Fe Trail. 

The famous old traveler, Jedediah Smith, in 1826 and 
1827, journeyed by the Sevier and Virgin River route to the 
Colorado River, though he appears to have made his own 
way, paralleling the aboriginal highway. In August of 
1827, a number of his party were killed by Mohave Indians 
on the Colorado River. 

Creation of the Mormon Road 

The discovery of gold in California gave very great 
added importance to this southern Utah route. When the 
Washoe passes were closed by snow, California travel by 
the plains route necessarily was diverted, either around by 

54 



Oregon or southward through the Virgin River section. 
The latter route appears to have been safe enough in winter, 
save for occasional attacks by Indians, who were bent more 
upon plunder than upon murder. Occasionally, parties 
sought a shorter cut to the westward and suffered disaster 
in the sands of the Amargosa desert or of Death Valley. 
Sometimes such men as Jacob Hamblin were detailed to act 
as guides, but this seemed to be more needed with respect 
to dealings with the Indians than to show the road, as the 
highway was a plain one through to San Bernardino and 
San Gabriel. Of summers, undoubtedly the travel was 
much lessened, as the goldseekers chose the much more 
direct and better-watered routes passing either north or 
south of Lake Tahoe, by Donner Lake and Emigrant Gap 
or by the Placerville grade. 

The western end of the southern Utah-Nevada trail, 
after the establishment of the San Bernardino colony, soon 
became known as the Mormon road, a name preserved. 

Mail service was known over the old Spanish or Mormon 
Trail, down the Virgin and to Los Angeles, at different times 
between 1850 and 1861. This service seems to have been 
as an alternative when the passes of the Sierra Nevadas 
were closed. The best evidence at hand concerning this 
route is contained within a claim made by one Chorpending, 
for compensation from the United States for mules and 
equipment stolen by Indians in 1854-1856. John Hunt, 
later of Snowflake, carried mail on the route in 1856 and 
1857. There must be assumption that stage stations were 
maintained on the Muddy and at Vegas. 

With the Lyman and Rich expedition, in 1851, one of 
the wagons bore Apostle Parley P. Pratt who, accompanied 
by Rufus C. Allen, was starting upon a mission to the 
southwest coast of South America. On May 13, there was 
note of encampment at "a large spring, usually called Las 
Vegas," after having traveled 200 miles through worthless 
desert and between mountains of naked rock. 



55 



Mormon Settlement at Tubac * 

To Commissioner John R. Bartlett, of the International 
Boundary Survey, the Author is indebted for a memoran- 
dum covering what clearly was the first Mormon settle- 
ment within the present confines of Arizona. It was at the 
old Spanish pueblo of Tubac, in the Santa Cruz valley, 
about forty miles south of Tucson. Both places then (in 
July, 1852), still were in Mexico, the time being two years 
before perfecting the Gadsden Purchase. 

Tubac, according to the Commissioner, was "a collection 
of dilapidated buildings and huts, about half tenantless, and 
an equally ruinous church." He called it "a God-forsaken 
place," but gave some interesting history. After a century 
and a half of occupation, usually with a population of about 
400, it had been abandoned a year before the Commission- 
er's arrival, but had been repopulated by possibly 100 
individuals. There was irrigation from the Santa Cruz, but 
of uncertain sort, and it was this very uncertainty that lost 
to Arizona a community of settlers of industry surely rare 
in that locality. Bartlett's narrative recites: 

The preceding fall (of 1851), after the place has been again occu- 
pied, a party of Mormons, in passing through on their way to Cali- 
fornia, was induced to stop there by the representations of the Mexican 
comandante. He offered them lands in the rich valley, where acequias 
(irrigation ditches) were already dug, if they would remain and culti- 
vate it; assuring them that they would find a ready market for all the 
corn, wheat and vegetables they could raise, from the troops and 
from passing emigrants. The offer was so good and the prospects 
were so flattering that they consented to remain. They, therefore, 
set to work, plowed and sowed their lands, in which they expended 
all their means, anticipating an abundant harvest. But the spring 
and summer came without rain: the river dried up; their fields 
could not be irrigated; and their labor, time and money was lost. 
They abandoned the place, and, though reduced to the greatest 
extremities, succeeded in reaching Santa Isabel in California, where 
we fell in with them. 

The Santa Isabel meeting referred to had taken place in 
the previous May, 1852. Santa Isabel was an old visita of 

56 



San Diego Mission, about forty miles northeast of San 
Diego and on the road from that port to Fort Yuma. In 
the Commissioner's party, eastbound, was the noted scout, 
Antoine LeRoux, who had been one of the guides of the 
Mormon Battalion westward, in 1846. Bartlett wrote: 

LeRoux had been sent to the settlement at San Bernardino, to 
purchase a vehicle from newly-arrived Mormon immigrants and to 

return with it to Santa Isabel. When the wagon came it was 

driven by its owner, named Smithson. After paying him, I invited 
him to remain with us over night, as he had had a fatiguing day's 
journey. We were very much amused during the evening in listening 
to the history of our Mormon friend, who also enlightened us with 
a lecture on the peculiar doctrines of his sect. He seemed a harmless, 
though zealous man, ardent in his religious belief and was, I should 
think, a fair specimen of his fraternity. His people had lately pur- 
chased the extensive haciendas and buildings at San Bernardino, 
covering several miles square, for $70,000, one-half of which amount 
they had paid in cash. This is one of the richest agricultural dis- 
tricts in the State and is said to have been a great bargain. 

Bartlett's narrative, while interesting, does not inform 
concerning the identity of the Mormons at Tubac. Includ- 
ing Smithson, doubtless they were swallowed within the San 
Bernardino settlement. Just where the Tubac settlers 
came from is not clear. There seems probability that they 
were from one of the southern States, started directly for 
San Bernardino, instead of via Salt Lake, in the same man- 
ner that an Arkansas expedition went directly to the Little 
Colorado settlements in later years. 

Tubac dates back to about 1752. Possibly not pertinent 
to the subject of this work, yet valuable, is a map of Tubac, 
herewith reproduced, drawn about 1760 by Jose de Urrutia. 
This map lately was found in the British Museum at Lon- 
don by Godfrey Sykes, of the Desert Laboratory at Tucson. 
From him receipt of a copy is acknowledged, with appre- 
ciation. The plat includes the irrigated area below the 
presidio. 
A Texan Settlement of the Faith 

The Commissioner traveled broadly and chronicled 

57 



much and the Author is indebted to his memoirs for several 
items of early Mormon settlement in the Southwest. 

One of the earliest details given by Bartlett concerns 
his arrival, October 14, 1850, at the village of Zodiac, in the 
valley of the Piedernales River, near Fredericksburg, about 
seventy miles northwest of San Antonio, Texas. Zodiac he 
found a village of 150 souls, headed by Elder Wight, 
locally known as "Colonel," who acted as host. That the 
settlement, even in such early times, was typically Mormon, 
is shown by the following extract from Bartlett's diary: 

Everywhere around us in this Zodiacal settlement we saw abundant 
signs of prosperity. Whatever may be their theological errors, in 
secular matters they present an example of industry and thrift which 
the people of the State might advantageously imitate. They have a 
tract of land which they have cultivated for about three years and 
which has yielded profitable crops. The well-built houses, perfect 
fences and tidy dooryards give the place a homelike air such as we 
had not seen before in Texas. The dinner was a regular old-fashioned 
New England farmer's meal, comprising an abundance of everything, 
served with faultless neatness. The entire charge for the dinner for 
twelve persons and corn for as many animals was $3. . . . The 
colonel said he was the first settler in the valley of the Piedernales and 
for many miles around. In his colony were people of all trades. He 
told me his crop of corn this year would amount to 7000 bushels, 
for which he expected to realize $1.25 a bushel. 



58 



Chapter Seven 



Hamblin, "Leatherstocking of the Southwest" 

In Southern Arizona the first pioneering was done by 
devoted Franciscans and Jesuits, their chiefest concern the 
souls of the gentile Indians. In similar wise, the pioneering 
of northern Arizona had its initiation in a hope of the 
Mormon Church for conversion of the Indians of the 
canyons and plains. In neither case was there the desired 
degree of success, but each period has brought to us many 
stories of heroism and self-sacrifice on the part of the mis- 
sionaries. In the days when the American colonists were 
shaking off the English yoke, our Southwest was having 
exploration by the martyred Friar Garces. Three-quarters 
of a century later, the trail that had been taken by the 
priest to the Hopi villages was used by a Mormon mis- 
sionary, Jacob Hamblin, sometimes called the "Leather- 
stocking of the Southwest," more of a trail-blazer than a 
preacher, a scout of the frontier directly commissioned 
under authority of his Church, serene in his faith and 
confident that his footsteps were being guided from on high. 

The Author has found himself unable to write the 
history of northernmost Arizona without continual min- 
gling of the name and the personal deeds of Jacob Hamblin. 
Apparently Hamblin had had no special training for the 
work he was to do so well. It seemed to "merely happen" 
that he was in southwestern Utah, as early as 1854, when 
his Church was looking toward expansion to the southward. 

Hamblin's first essay into the Arizona country was in 
the troublous fall and winter of 1857, a year when he and 

59 



his family were living in the south end of Mountain Mead- 
ows, Utah. He happened to be in Salt Lake when the 
famous Arkansas emigrant train passed through his dis- 
trict. Brigham Young sent a messenger southward with 
instructions to let the wagon train (an especially trouble- 
some one) pass as quietly as possible, but these instructions 
were not received and Hamblin learned on the way home, 
of the massacre. The information came personally from 
John D. Lee, the assassin-in-chief. In Hamblin's autobio- 
graphy is written, "The deplorable affair caused a sensation 
of horror and deep regret throughout the entire community, 
by whom it was unqualifiedly condemned." 

Thereafter, Hamblin and his associates rode hard after 
other emigrants who were to be attacked by Indians, and 
found a company on the Muddy, surrounded by Paiutes 
preparing to attack and destroy them. As a compromise, 
the Indians were given the loose horses and cattle, which 
later were recovered, and the Mormons remained with the 
company to assist in its defense. 

Aboriginal Diversions 

Late in the autumn of 1857, a company came through 
on the way to California, bringing a letter from President 
Young, directing Hamblin to act as guide to California. 
On his way to join the train, Hamblin found a naked man 
in the hands of the Paiutes, who were preparing "to have 
a good time with him," that is, "they intended to take him 
to their camp and torture him." He saved the man's life 
and secured the return of his clothing. As the caravan 
neared the Muddy, news came of another Indian attack. 
Hamblin rode ahead and joined the Indians. He later 
wrote, "I called them together and sat down and smoked a 
little tobacco with them, which I had brought along for 
that purpose." Apparently there was a good deal of native 
diplomacy in the negotiations. There were some promises 
of blankets and shirts and finally there was agreement to 
let the travelers proceed. 

60 




JACOB HAMBLIN 

'Apostle to the Lamanites" 



Incidentally, they were met by Ira Hatch and Dudley 
Leavitt, on their return from a mission to the Mohave 
Indians. The Mohaves, careless of the Gospel privileges 
afforded, held a council over the Mormon missionaries and 
decided that they should die. Hatch thereupon knelt down 
among the savages and "asked the Lord to soften their 
hearts, that they might not shed further blood." The 
prayer was repeated to the Mohaves by a Paiute interpre- 
ter. "The heart of the chief was softened" and before dawn 
the next morning he set the two men afoot on the desert 
and directed them to Las Vegas Springs, eighty miles distant. 
Their food on the journey was mesquite bread, "made 
by pounding the seeds of the mesquite fruits in the valley." 

Hamblin at all times was very careful in his dealings 
with the Indians. At an early date he might have killed 
one of them, but his gun missed fire, a circumstance for 
which he later repeatedly praised the Lord. Probably his 
greatest influence came through his absolute fearlessness. 
He was firmly convinced that he was in the Lord's keeping 
and that his time would not come till his mission had been 
accomplished. 

Without doubt, Hamblin's course was largely sustained 
by a letter received by him March 5, 1858, from President 
Brigham Young, in which he prophesied that "the day of 
Indian redemption draws nigh," and continued, "you 
should always be careful to impress upon them that they 
should not infringe upon the rights of others; and our 
brethren should be very careful not to infringe upon their 
rights, thus cultivating honor and good principles in their 
midst by example, as well as precept." 

In the spring of 1857, Hamblin and Dudley Leavitt, at 
a point 35 miles west of Las Vegas, smelted some lead ore, 
Hamblin having some knowledge of the proper processes. 
The lead later was left on the desert. The wagons were 
needed to haul iron, remnants of old emigrant wagons that 
had been abandoned on the San Bernardino road. 



61 



Encounter with Federal Explorers 

In the course of his missionary endeavor, in the spring 
of 1858, Hamblin took five men and went by way of Las 
Vegas Springs to the Colorado River, at the foot of the Cot- 
tonwood Hills, 170 miles from the Santa Clara, Utah, 
settlement. Upon this trip he had remarkable experiences. 
On the river he saw a small steamer. Men with animals 
were making their way upstream on the opposite side. 
Thales Haskell, sent to investigate, returned next morn- 
ing with information that the steamer company was of 
military character and very hostile to the Mormons, that 
the expedition had been sent out by the Government to 
examine the river and learn if a force could not be taken 
through southern Utah in that direction, should it be 
needed, to subjugate the Mormons. Hamblin returned to 
Las Vegas Springs and thought the situation so grave that 
he counseled abandonment of the Mormon settlement then 
being made at that point. 

This record is very interesting in view of contemporary 
history. Without doubt, the steamboat he saw was the 
little "Explorer," of the topographical exploration of the 
Colorado River in the winter of 1857-8. Commanding was 
Lieut. J. C. Ives of the army Topographical Corps, the 
same officer who had been in the engineering section of 
Whipple's railway survey along the 35th parallel. The 
craft was built in the east and put together at the mouth 
of the river. The journey upstream was at a low stage of 
water and there was continual trouble with snags and sandy 
bars. Finally, when Black Canyon had been reached, the 
"Explorer" ran upon a sunken rock, the boiler was torn 
loose, as well as the wheelhouse, and the river voyage had 
to be abandoned, though Ives and two men rowed up the 
stream as far as Vegas Wash. 

The steamboat was floated back to Yuma, but Ives 
started eastward with a pack train, guided by the Mohave 
chief, Iritaba, taking the same route that had been pursued 

62 



many years before by Friar Garces through the Hava Supai 
and Hopi country. 

It is to be regretted that Hamblin did not go on board 
the "Explorer," where no doubt he would have received 
cordial welcome. Even at that time, Brigham Young un- 
doubtedly would have been pleased to have helped in for- 
warding the opening of a route to the southwestern coast 
by way of the Colorado River. 

Incidentally, the steamer had a trip that was valuable 
mainly in the excellent mapping that was done by Ives and 
his engineers. Captain Johnston and the steamer "Colo- 
rado" had been over the same stretch of river before the 
"Explorer" came and had served to ferry across the stream, 
about where Fort Mohave later stood, the famous camel 
party of Lieutenant Beale. 

The Hopi and the Welsh Legend 

There was serious consideration by the Church author- 
ities of a declaration that the Moqui (Hopi) Indians of 
northern Arizona had a dialect that at least embraced 
many Welsh words. President Young had heard that a 
group of Welshmen, several hundred years before, had dis- 
appeared into the western wilds, so, with his usual quick 
inquiry into matters that interested him, he sent south- 
ward, led by Hamblin, in the autumn of 1858, a linguistic 
expedition, also including Durias Davis and Ammon M. 
Tenney. Davis was a Welshman, familiar with the language 
of his native land. Tenney, then only 15, knew a number 
of Indian dialects, as well as Spanish, the last learned in 
San Bernardino. They made diligent investigation and 
found nothing whatever to sustain the assertion. Not a 
word could they find that was similar in anywise to any 
European language. 

It happens that the Hopi tongue is a composite, mainly 
a Shoshonean dialect, probably accumulated as the various 
clans of the present tribe gathered in northeastern Arizona, 
from the cactus country to the south, the San Juan country 

63 



to the northward and the Rio Grande valley to the eastward. 
But the Welsh legend was slow in dying. 

This expedition of 1858, besides the two individuals 
noted, included Frederick and William Hamblin, Dudley 
and Thomas Leavitt, Samuel Knight, Ira Hatch, Andrew 
S. Gibbons (later an Arizona legislator), Benjamin Knell 
and a Paiute guide, Naraguts. The journey started at 
Hamblin's home in the Santa Clara settlement and was by 
way of the mouth of the Paria, where a good ferry point 
was found, but not used, and the Crossing of the Fathers 
on the Colorado, probably crossed by white men for the 
first time since Spanish days. The Hopi villages were found 
none too soon, for the men were very hungry. They had 
lost the mules that carried the provisions. The Hopi were 
found hospitable and furnished food until the runaway 
mules were brought in. There was some communication 
through the Ute language, after failure with the language 
of Wales. William Hamblin, Thomas Leavitt, Gibbons 
and Knell were left as missionaries and the rest of the 
dozen made a difficult return journey to their homes, a 
part of the way through snow. 

The missionaries left with the Hopi returned the same 
winter. They had not been treated quite as badly as Father 
Garces, but there had been a division among the tribes, 
started by the priesthood. There was very good prophecy, 
however, by the Indians, to the effect that the Mormons 
would settle in the country to the southward and that their 
route of travel would be by way of the Little Colorado. 

It might be well to insert, at this point, a condensation 
of the Welsh legend, though affecting, especially, the 
Zuni, a pueblo-dwelling tribe, living to the eastward of the 
Hopi and with little ethnologic connection. The following 
was written by Llewellyn Harris (himself of Welsh extrac- 
tion), who was a Mormon missionary visitor to the Zuni 
in January, 1878, and is reprinted without endorsement: 

They say that, before the conquest of Mexico by the Spaniards, 

64 



the Zuni Indians lived in Mexico. Some of them still claim to be the 
descendants of Montezuma. At the time of the conquest they fled 
to Arizona and settled there. They were at one time a very powerful 
tribe, as the ruins all over that part of the country testify. They 
have always been considered a very industrious people. The fact 
that they have, at one time, been in a state of civilization far in ad- 
vance of what they are at present, is established beyond a doubt. 
Before the Catholic religion was introduced to them, they worshipped 
the sun. At present they are nearly all Catholics. A few of them 
have been baptized into our Church by Brothers Ammon M. Tenney 
and R. H. Smith, and nearly all the tribe say they are going to be 
baptized. 

They have a great many words in the language like the Welsh, 
and with the same meaning. Their tradition says that over 300 years 
before the conquest of Mexico by the Spaniards, some white men 
landed in Mexico and told the Indians that they had come from the 
regions beyond the sea to the east. They say that from these white 
men came the ancient kings of Mexico, from whom Montezuma de- 
scended. 

These white men were known to the Indians of Mexico by the 
name of Cambaraga; and are still remembered so in the traditions of 
Zuni Indians. In time those white people became mixed with In- 
dians, until scarcely a relic of them remained. A few traditions of the 
Mexican Indians and a few Welsh words among the Zunis, Navajos 
and Moquis are all that can be found of that people now. 

I have the history of the ancient Britons, which speaks of Prince 
Madoc, who was the son of Owen Guynedd, King of Wales, having 
sailed from Wales in the year 1160, with three ships. He returned 
in the year 1163, saying he had found a beautiful country, across 
the western sea. He left Wales again in the year 1164, with fifteen 
ships and 3000 men. He was never again heard of. 

Indians Await Their Prophets 

President Young kept the Hopi in mind, for the follow- 
ing year (1859) he sent Hamblin on a second trip to the 
Indians, with a company that consisted of Marion J. 
Shelton, Thales Haskell, Taylor Crosby, Benjamin Knell, 
Ira Hatch and John Wm. Young. They reached the Hopi 
villages November 6, talked with the Indians three days 
and then left the work of possible conversion on the 
shoulders of Shelton and Haskell, who returned to the Santa 
Clara the next spring. The Indians were kind, but un- 

65 



believing, and "could make no move until the reappearance 
of the three prophets who led their fathers to that land 
and told them to remain on those rocks until they should 
come again and tell them what to do." Both ways of the 
journey were by the Ute ford. 

Navajo Killing of Geo. A. Smith, Jr. 

In the fall of 1860, Hamblin was directed to attempt 
to establish the faith in the Hopi towns. This time, from 
Santa Clara, he took Geo. A. Smith, Jr., son of an apostle 
of the Church, Thales Haskell, Jehiel McConnell, Ira 
Hatch, Isaac Riddle, Amos G. Thornton, Francis M. 
Hamblin, James Pearce and an Indian, Enos, with supplies 
for a year. Young Ammon Tenney was sent back. This 
proved a perilous adventure. Hamblin told he had had 
forebodings of evil. Failure attended an attempt to cross 
the Colorado at the Paria. For two days south of the 
Crossing of the Fathers, there was no water. The Navajo 
gathered around them and barred further progress. There 
was a halt, and bartering was started for goods that had 
been brought along to exchange for Indian blankets. At 
this point, Smith was shot. The deed was done with his 
own revolver, which had been passed to an Indian who 
asked to inspect it. The Indians readily admitted respons- 
ibility, stating that it was in reprisal for the killing of three 
Navajos by palefaces and they demanded two more vic- 
tims before the Mormon company would be allowed to go 
in peace. The situation was a difficult one for Jacob, but 
he answered bravely, "I would not give a cent to live after 
I had given up two men to be murdered; I would rather die 
like a man than live like a dog." Jacob went out by himself 
and had a little session of prayer and then the party started 
northward, flanked by hostile Navajos, but accompanied 
by four old friendly tribesmen. Smith was taken along on 
a mule, with McConnell behind to hold him on. Thus it 
was that he died about sundown. His last words, when told 
that a stop could not be made, were, "Oh, well, go on then; 

66 



but I wish I could die in peace." The body was wrapped 
in a blanket and laid in a hollow by the side of the trail, 
for no stop could be made even to bury the dead. 

About a week later, Santa Clara was reached by the 
worn and jaded party, sustained the last few days on a 
diet mainly of pinon nuts. 

That winter, through the snow and ice, Hamblin led 
another party across the Colorado out upon the desert, to 
bring home the remains of their brother in the faith. The 
head and the larger bones were returned for burial at 
Salt Lake City. It was learned that the attacking Indians 
were from Fort Defiance and on this trip it was told that 
the Navajo considered their own action a grave mistake. 

A Seeking of Baptism for Gain 

That the Shivwits were susceptible to missionary argu- 
ment was indicated about 1862, when James H. Pearce 
brought from Arizona into St. George a band of 300 Indians, 
believed to comprise the whole tribe. All were duly bap- 
tized into the Church, the ceremony performed by David 
H. Cannon. Then Erastus Snow distributed largess of 
clothing and food. Ten years later Pearce again was with 
the Indians, greeted in affectionate remembrance. But 
there was complaint from the Shivwits they "had not heard 
from the Lord since he left." Then followed fervent sug- 
gestions from the tribesmen that they be taken to St. 
George and be baptized again. They wanted more shirts. 
They also wanted Pearce to write to the Lord and to tell 
Him the Shivwits had been pretty good Indians. 

The First Tour Around the Grand Canyon 

Hamblin's adventures to the southward were far from 
complete. In the autumn of 1862 President Young directed 
another visit to the Hopi, recommending that the Colorado 
be crossed south of St. George, in the hope of finding a more 
feasible route. Hamblin had had disaster the previous 
spring, in which freshets had swept away his grist mill and 

67 



other improvements. Most of the houses and cultivated 
land of the Santa Clara settlement had disappeared. He 
was given a company of twenty men, detailed by Apostles 
Orson Pratt and Erastus Snow. A small boat was taken 
to the river by wagon. Hamblin's chronicle does not 
tell just where the crossing was made, but it is assumed 
that it was at the mouth of the Grand Wash. From the 
river crossing there were four days of very dry travel 
toward the southeast, with the San Francisco Mountains 
in the far distance. There is no reference in his diary to the 
finding of any roads, but it is probable that most of the 
journey was on aboriginal trails. Snow was found at the 
foot of the San Francisco Mountains and two days there- 
after the Little Colorado was crossed and then were reached 
the Hopi, who "had been going through some religious 
ceremonies to induce the Great Spirit to send storms to 
water their country that they might raise abundance of 
food the coming season." This may have been the annual 
Snake Dance. The Hopi refused to send some of their 
chief men to Utah, their traditions forbidding, but finally 
three joined after the expedition had started. There had 
been left behind McConnell, Haskell, and Hatch to labor 
for a season, and as hostages for the return of the tribesmen. 

This journey probably was the first that ever circled 
the Grand Canyon, for return was by the Ute Crossing, 
where fording was difficult and dangerous, for the water 
was deep and ice was running. The three Hopi were dis- 
mayed over their violation of tradition, but were induced 
to go on. Incidentally, food became so scarce that resort 
was had to the killing and cooking of crows. 

The Indians were taken on to Salt Lake City and were 
shown many things that impressed them greatly. An un- 
successful attempt was made to learn whether they spoke 
Welsh. Hamblin wrote that the Indians said, "They had 
been told that their forefathers had the arts of reading, 
writing, making books, etc." 

68 



d 

> 

H 
i— i 

IS 



O 

w 

O 
C 



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' 


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AMMON M. TENNEY 

Pioneer Scout of the Southwest 



Here it may be noted that the Grand Canyon was 
circumtoured in the fall of 1920 by Governor and Mrs. 
Campbell, but under very different circumstances. The 
vehicle was an automobile. Crossing of the Colorado was 
at the Searchlight ferry, about forty miles downstream from 
old Callville. On the first day 248 miles were covered, 
mainly on the old Mormon road, to Littlefield, through the 
Muddy section, now being revived. St. George and other 
pioneer southern Utah settlements were passed on the way 
to Kanab and Fredonia. The road to the mouth of the 
Paria and to Lee's Ferry appears to have been found very 
little less rough than when traveled by the Mormon ox 
teams, and the river crossing was attended by experiences 
with quicksand and other dangers, while the pull outward 
on the south side was up a steep and hazardous highway. 

A Visit to the Hava-Supai Indians 

Hamblin had about as many trips as Sindbad the 
Sailor and about as many adventures. Of course, he had 
to take the Hopi visitors home, and on this errand he 
started from St. George on March 18, 1863, with a party 
of six white men, including Gibbons, Haskell, Hatch and 
McConnell. They took the western route and found a 
better crossing, later called Pearce's Ferry. At this point 
they were overtaken by Lewis Greeley, a nephew of Horace 
Greeley of the New York Tribune, who had been sent on 
to the river by Erastus Snow. 

A trail was taken to the left of the former route. This 
trail very clearly was the main thoroughfare used by the 
Wallapai into Cataract Canyon, which was so known at 
that time. Down the trail, into the abysmal "voladero" of 
Father Garces, they traveled a day and part of another, 
leading their horses most of the way. In many places they 
could not have turned their animals around had they wished 
to do so. 

Cataract Canyon, the home of the Hava-Supai, is a 
veritable Yosemite, with craggy walls that rise nearly 

69 



3000 feet to the mesa above. Hamblin especially noted the 
boiling from the bottom of the canyon of a beautiful large 
spring, the same which today irrigates the lands of the well- 
disposed Indians. These Indians gave assistance to the 
party and told of an attack made a short time before by 
Apaches from the southeast, who had been met in a narrow 
pass where several of their number had been slain. Assuring 
the Hava-Supai they would send no enemies into their 
secret valley, Hamblin led his party to the eastward, up 
the Tope-Kobe trail to the plateau. This was reached 
April 7. Though along the Moqui trail at no point were 
they very far from the Grand Canyon, that gorge was not 
noted in Hamblin's narrative, for the brethren were not 
sight-seeing. A few days later they were in the Hopi towns, 
to which the three much-traveled Indians preceded them, 
in eagerness to see their people again. 

Only two days were spent with the Indians and on 
April 15, taking Haskell, Hatch and McConnell, the party 
struck toward the southwest, to find the Beale road. On 
the 20th, Greeley discovered a pond of clear cold water 
several acres in extent in the crater of a volcanic peak. 
The San Francisco peaks were passed, left to the southward, 
and the Beale road was struck six miles west of LeRoux 
Springs, the later site of Fort Moroni, seven miles north- 
west of the present Flagstaff. 

The Beale road was followed until the 28th. Thence, the 
men suffered thirst, for 56 hours being without water. 
Ten of their eighteen horses were stolen. This, it was ex- 
plained, was due to the failure of the Hava-Supai to return 
Wallapai horses which the men had left in Cataract Canyon 
on the outward journey. St. George was reached May 13, 
1863. The main result had been the exploration of a practi- 
cable, though difficult, route for wagons from St. George 
to the Little Colorado and to the Hopi towns. 

Experiences with the Redskins 

Ammon M. Tenney in Phoenix lately told the Author 

70 



that the Navajo were the only Indians who ever really 
fought the Mormons and the only tribe against which the 
Mormons were compelled to depart from their rule against 
the shedding of blood. It is not intended in this work to 
go into any history of the many encounters between the 
Utah Mormons and the Arizona Navajo, but there should 
be inclusion of a story told by Tenney of an experience in 
1865 at a point eighteen miles west of Pipe Springs and six 
miles southwest of Canaan, Utah. There were three 
Americans from Toquerville, the elder Tenney, the narra- 
tor, and Enoch Dodge, the last known as one of the bravest 
of southern Utah pioneers. The three were surrounded by 
sixteen Navajos, and, with their backs to the wall, fought 
for an hour or more, finally abandoning their thirteen 
horses and running for better shelter. Dodge was shot 
through the knee cap, a wound that incapacitated him 
from the fight thereafter. The elder Tenney fell and broke 
his shoulder blade and was stunned, though he was not 
shot. This left the fight upon the younger Tenney, who 
managed to climb a twelve-foot rocky escarpment. He 
reached down with his rifle and dragged up his father 
and Dodge. The three opportunely found a little cave in 
which they secreted themselves until reasonably rested, 
hearing the Indians searching for them on the plateau above. 
Then, in the darkness, they made their way fifteen miles 
into Duncan's Retreat on the Virgin River in Utah. 
"There is one thing I will say for the Navajo," Tenney 
declared with fervor. "He is a sure-enough fighting man. 
The sixteen of them stood shoulder to shoulder, not taking 
cover, as almost any other southwestern Indian would have 
done." 

Apparently, on each of the visits that had been made by 
Hamblin to the Hopi, he had made suggestion that the 
tribes leave their barren land and move to the northward, 
across the Colorado, where good lands might be allotted 
them, on which they might live in peace and plenty, where 

71 



1/ 



they might build cities and villages the same as other 
people, but, according to Hamblin's journal, "They again 
told us that they could not leave their present location 
until the three prophets should appear again." 

This was written particularly in regard to a visit made 
to the villages in 1864, and in connection with a theft of 
horses by Navajos near Kanab. It was found inexpedient 
to go into the Navajo country, as Chief Spaneshanks, who 
had been relatively friendly, had been deposed by his band 
and had been succeeded by a son of very different incli- 
nation. 

In autumn of the same year, Anson Call, Dr. Jas. M. 
Whitmore, A. M. Cannon and Hamblin and son visited 
Las Vegas Springs and the Colorado River, stopping a 
while with the Cottonwood Island Indians and the Mohave, 
and establishing Callville. 

Killing of Whitmore and Mclntire 

January 8, 1866, Doctor Whitmore and his herder, 
Robert Mclntire, were killed in Arizona, four miles north 
of Pipe Springs by a band of Paiede Paiutes and Navajos, 
that drove off horses, sheep and cattle. There was pursuit 
from St. George by Col. D. D. McArthur and company. 

A tale of the pursuit comes from Anthony W. Ivins, a 
member of the company, then a mere boy who went out 
on a mule with a quilt for a saddle. The weather was 
bitterly cold. The bodies were found covered with snow, 
which was three feet deep. Each body had many arrow 
and bullet wounds. The men had been attacked while 
riding the range, only Mclntire being armed. A detach- 
ment, under Captain James Andrus, found the murderous 
Indians in camp and, in a short engagement, killed nine of 
them. 

The trail to the Hopi towns must have been well known 
to the Mormon scout when in October, 1869, again he was 
detailed to investigate the sources of raids on the Mormon 
borders. He had a fairly strong company of forty men, 

72 



including twenty Paiutes. The crossing was at the mouth 
of the Paria. Apparently all that was accomplished on this 
trip was to learn that the Indians intended to make still 
another raid on the southern settlements. Hamblin wanted 
to go back by way of the Ute trail and the Crossing of the 
Fathers, but was overruled by his brethren, who preferred 
the Paria route. When they returned, it was to learn that 
the Navajos already had raided and had driven off more 
than 1200 head of animals, and that, if the Mormon com- 
pany, on returning, had taken the Ute trail, the raiders 
would have been met and the animals possibly recovered. 
The winter was a hard one for the Mormons who watched 
the frontier, assisted by friendly Paiutes. The trouble 
weighed heavily upon Hamblin's mind and, in the spring 
of 1870, at Kanab, he offered himself to President Young 
as an ambassador to the Navajo, to prevent, if possible, 
further shedding of blood. 



73 



Chapter Eight 



Visiting the Paiutes with Powell 

It was in the summer of 1870 that Hamblin met Major 
J. W. Powell, who had descended the Colorado the previous 
year. Powell's ideas coincided very well with those of 
Hamblin. He wanted to visit the Indians and prevent 
repetition of such a calamity as that in which three of his 
men had been killed near Mount Trumbull, southwest of 
Kanab. So, in September, 1870, there was a gathering at 
Mount Trumbull, with about fifteen Indians. What fol- 
lowed is presented in Powell's own language: 

This evening, the Shivwits, for whom we have sent, come in, and 
after supper we hold a long council. A blazing fire is built, and around 
this we sit — the Indians living here, the Shivwits, Jacob Hamblin 
and myself. This man, Hamblin, speaks their language well and 
has a great influence over all the Indians in the region round about. 
He is a silent, reserved man, and when he speaks it is in a slow, quiet 
way that inspires great awe. His talk is so low that they must listen 
attentively to hear, and they sit around him in deathlike silence. 
When he finishes a measured sentence the chief repeats it and they 
all give a solemn grunt. But, first, I fill my pipe, light it, and take a 
few whiffs, then pass it to Hamblin; he smokes and gives it to the 
man next, and so it goes around. When it has passed the chief, he 
takes out his own pipe, fills and lights it, and passes it around after 
mine. I can smoke my own pipe in turn, but when the Indian pipe 
comes around, I am nonplussed. It has a large stem, which has 
at some time been broken, and now there is a buckskin rag wound 
around it and tied with sinew, so that the end of the stem is a huge 
mouthful, exceedingly repulsive. To gain time, I refill it, then engage 
in very earnest conversation, and, all unawares, I pass it to my neighbor 
unlighted. I tell the Indians that I wish to spend some months in 
their country during the coming year and that I would like them to 
treat me as a friend. I do not wish to trade; do not want their lands. 

74 



Heretofore I have found it very difficult to make the natives understand 
my object, but the gravity of the Mormon missionary helps me much. 

Then their chief replies: "Your talk is good and we believe 
what you say. We believe in Jacob, and look upon you as a father. 
When you are hungry, you may have our game. You may gather our 
sweet fruits. We will give you food when you come to our land. 
We will show you the springs and you may drink; the water is good. 
We will be friends and when you come we will be glad. We will tell 
the Indians who live on the other side of the great river that 
we have seen Kapurats (one-armed — the Indian name for Powell) 
and that he is the Indian's friend. We will tell them he is Jacob's 
friend." 

The Indians told that the three men had been killed in 
the belief they were miners. They had come upon an Indian 
village, almost starved and exhausted with fatigue, had been 
supplied with food and put on their way to the settlements. 
On receipt of news that certain Indians had been killed by 
whites, the men were followed, ambushed and slain with 
many arrows. Powell observes that that night he slept 
in peace, "although these murderers of my men were 
sleeping not 500 yards away." Hamblin improved the 
time in trying to make the Indians understand the idea of 
an overruling Providence and to appreciate that God was 
not pleased with the shedding of blood. He admitted, 
"These teachings did not appear to have much influence 
at the time, but afterwards they yielded much good 
fruit." 

Wm. R. Hawkins, cook for this first Powell expedition, 
died a few years ago in Mesa, Arizona. Willis W. Bass, a 
noted Grand Canyon guide, lately published an interesting 
booklet carrying some side lights on the Powell explora- 
tions. In it is declared, on Hawkins' authority, that the 
three men who climbed the cliffs, to meet death above, left 
the party after a quarrel with Powell, the dispute starting 
in the latter's demand for payment for a watch that had 
been ruined while in possession of one of the trio. Powell 
is charged with having ordered the man to leave his party 
if he would not agree to pay for the watch. 

75 



A Great Conference with the Navajo 

One of the greatest of Hamblin's southern visitations 
was in the autumn of 1870, when he served as a guide for 
Major Powell eastward, by way of the Hopi villages and of 
Fort Defiance. Powell's invitation was the more readily 
accepted as this appeared to be an opening for the much- 
desired peace talk with the Navajo. In the expedition were 
Ammon M. Tenney, Ashton Nebecker, Nathan Terry and 
Elijah Potter of the brethren, three of Powell's party and 
a Kaibab Indian. 

According to Tenney, in the previous year, the Navajo 
had stolen $1,000,000 worth of cattle, horses and sheep in 
southern Utah. Tenney, in a personal interview with the 
Author in 1920, told that the great council then called, 
was tremendously dramatic. About a dozen Americans were 
present, including Powell and Captain Bennett. Tenney 
estimated that about 8000 Indians were on the council 
ground at Fort Defiance. This number would have included 
the entire tribe. It was found that the gathering was dis- 
tinctly hostile. Powell and Hamblin led in the talking. 
The former had no authority whatever, but gave the 
Indians to understand that he was a commissioner on behalf 
of the whites and that serious chastisement would come to 
them in a visit of troops if there should be continuation of 
the evil conditions complained of by the Mormons. Un- 
doubtedly this talk had a strong effect upon the Indians, 
who in Civil War days had been punished harshly for 
similar depredations upon the pueblos of New Mexico and 
who may have remembered when Col. Kit Carson des- 
cended upon the Navajo, chopped down their fruit trees, 
and laid waste their farms, later most of the tribe being 
taken into exile in New Mexico. 

Dellenbaugh and Hamblin wrote much concerning this 
great council. Powell introduced Hamblin as a represen- 
tative of the Mormons, whom he highly complimented as 
industrious and peaceful people. Hamblin told of the evils 

76 



of a war in which many men had been lost, including twenty 
or thirty Navajos, and informed the Indians that the young 
men of Utah wanted to come over to the Navajo country 
and kill, but "had been told to stay at home until other 
means of obtaining peace had been tried and had failed." 
He referred to the evils that come from the necessity of 
guarding stock where neither white nor Indian could trust 
sheep out of sight. He then painted the beauties of peace, 
in which "horses and sheep would become fat and in which 
one could sleep in peace and awake and find his property 
safe." Low- voiced, but clearly, the message concluded: 

What shall I tell my people, the Mormons, when I return home? 
That we may live in peace, live as friends, and trade with one another? 
Or shall we look for you to come prowling around our weak settlements, 
like wolves in the night? I hope we may live in peace in time to come. 
I have now gray hairs on my head, and from my boyhood I have 
been on the frontiers doing all I could to preserve peace between white 
men and Indians I despise this killing, this shedding of blood. I 
hope you will stop this and come and visit and trade with our people. 
We would like to hear what you have got to say before we go home. 

Barbenceta, the principal chief, slowly approached as 
Jacob ended and, putting his arms around him, said, 
"My friend and brother, I will do all that I can to bring 
about what you have advised. We will not give all our 
answer now. Many of the Navajos are here. We will 
talk to them tonight and will see you on your way home." 
The chief addressed his people from a little eminence. 
The Americans understood little or nothing of what he 
was saying, but it was agreed that it was a great oration. 
The Indians hung upon every word and responded to every 
gesture and occasionally, in unison, there would come from 
the crowd a harsh "Huh, Huh," in approval of their 
chieftain's advice and admonition. 

A number of days were spent at Fort Defiance in at- 
tempting to arrive at an understanding with the Navajo. 
Hamblin wrote, "through Ammon M. Tenney being able 
to converse in Spanish, we accomplished much good." 

77 



On the way home, in a Hopi village, were met Barbenceta 
and also a number of chiefs who had not been at Fort 
Defiance. The talk was very agreeable, the Navajos say- 
ing, "We hope that we may be able to eat at one table, 
warm by one fire, smoke one pipe, and sleep in one blanket." 

An Official Record of the Council 

Determination of the time of the council has come to 
the Arizona Historian's office, within a few days of the 
closing of the manuscript of this work, the data supplied 
from the office of the Church Historian at Salt Lake City. 
In it is a copy of a final report, dated November 5, 1870, 
and signed by Frank F. Bennett, Captain United States 
Army, agent for the Navajo Indians at Fort Defiance. 
The report is as follows: 

To Whom It May Concern: 

This is to certify that Capt. Jacob Hamblin of Kanab, Kane 
Co., Southern Utah, came to this agency with Prof. John W. Powell 
and party on the 1st day of November, 1870, and expressed a desire 
to have a talk with myself and the principal men of the Navajo In- 
dians in regard to depredations which the Navajos are alleged to have 
committed in southern Utah. 

I immediately informed the chiefs that I wished them to talk the 
matter over among themselves and meet Captain Hamblin and my- 
self in a council at the agency in four days. This was done and we, 
today, have had a long talk. The best of feeling existed. And the 
chiefs and good men of the Navajo Indians pledge themselves that 
no more Navajos will be allowed to go into Utah; and that they will 
not, under any circumstances, allow any more depredations to be 
committed by their people. That if they hear of any party forming 
for the purpose of making a raid, that they will immediately go 
to the place and stop them, using force if necessary. They express 
themselves as extremely anxious to be on the most friendly terms 
with the Mormons and that they may have a binding and lasting peace. 

I assure the people of Utah that nothing shall be left undone by 
me to assist these people in their wishes and I am positive that they 
are in earnest and mean what they say. 

I am confident that this visit of Captain Hamblin and the talk 
we have had will be the means of accomplishing great good. 

Together with this Bennett letter is one addressed by 

78 



Jacob Hamblinto Erastus Snow, dated November 21, 1870, 
and reciting in detail the circumstances of the great council, 
concluded November 5, 1870. Most of the debate was 
between Hamblin and Chief Barbenceta, with occasional 
observations by Powell concerning the might of the 
American Nation and the absolute necessity for cessation 
of thievery. Hamblin told how the young men and the 
middle-aged of his people had gathered to make war upon 
the Navajo, "determined to cross the river and follow the 
trail of the stolen stock and lay waste the country, but our 
white chief, Brigham Young, was a man of peace and 
stopped his people from raiding and wanted us to ask 
peace. This is my business here." He told that, five years 
before, the Navajos were led by three principal men of 
the Paiutes and at that time seven Paiutes were killed 
near the place where the white man was killed. These 
were not the right Indians, not the Paiutes who had done 
the mischief. Barbenceta talked at great length. To a 
degree he blamed the Paiutes, but could not promise that 
no more raids would be made, but he told the agent he 
would endeavor to stop all future depredations and would 
return stolen stock, if found. 

Navajos to Keep South of the River 

There finally was agreement that Navajos should go 
north of the river only for horse trading, or upon necessary 
errands, and that when they did go, they would be made 
safe and welcome, this additionally secure, if they were to 
go first to Hamblin. 

The Hopi and the Navajo, at that time, and probably 
for many years before, were unfriendly. There was a tale 
how the Hopi had attacked 35 Navajos, disarmed them, 
and then had thrown them off a high cliff between two of 
their towns. Hamblin went to the place indicated and found 
a number of skeletons and remains of blankets and under- 
stood that the deed had been done the year before. The 



79 



Navajo had plundered the Hopi for generations and the 
latter had retaliated. 

Hamblin's diary gives the great Navajo council as in 
1871. There also is much confusion of dates in several 
records of the time. But the year appears to be definitely 
established through the fact that Powell was in Salt Lake 
in October and November of 1871. It is a curious fact, 
also, that Powell, in his own narrative of the 1870 trip, 
makes no reference to Hamblin's presence with him south 
of the river or even to the dramatic circumstances of the 
great council, set by Hamblin and Dellenbaugh on Novem- 
ber 2. Powell's diary places him at Fort Defiance October 
31, 1870, and at a point near Fort Wingate November 2. 

Tuba's Visit to the White Men 

It was on the return from the grand council with the 
Navajo, in November, 1870, that Hamblin took to Utah, 
Tuba, a leading man of the Oraibi Hopi and his wife, Pulas- 
kaninki. 

In Hamblin's journal is a charming little account of how 
Tuba crossed the prohibited river. Tuba told Hamblin, 
"I have worshipped the Father of us all in the way you 
believe to be right. Now I wish you would do as the Hopi 
think is right before we cross." So the two knelt, Hamblin 
accepting in his right hand some of the contents of Tuba's 
medicine bag and Tuba prayed "for pity upon his Mormon 
friends, that none might drown, and for the preservation of 
all the animals we had, as all were needed, and for the pres- 
ervation of food and clothing, that hunger nor cold might 
be known on the trail." They arose and scattered the in- 
gredients from the medicine bag into the air, upon the men 
and into the waters of the river. Hamblin wrote, "To me 
the whole ceremony seemed humble and reverential. I 
feel the Father had regard for such petitions." There was 
added prayer by Tuba when the expedition safely landed 
on the opposite shore, at the mouth of the Paria. 

Tuba had a remarkable trip. He was especially interest- 

80 



ed in the spinning mill at Washington, for he had made 
blankets, and his wife, with handmill experience, thought of 
labor lost when she looked at the work of a flour mill. At 
St. George they saw President Young, who gave them 
clothing. 

Tuba was taken back home to Oraibi in safety in Sep- 
tember, 1871, and his return was celebrated by feasting. 

Of date December 24, 1870, in the files of the Deseret 
News is found a telegram from George A. Smith, who was 
with President Brigham Young and party in Utah's Dixie, 
at St. George. He wired : 

Jacob Hamblin, accompanied by Tooby, a Moqui magistrate of 
Oraibi village, and wife, who are on a visit to this place to get infor- 
mation in regard to agriculture and manufactures, came here lately. 
Tooby, being himself a skillful spinner, examined the factory and 
grist mill at Washington. Upon seeing 360 spindles in operation, 
he said he had no heart to spin with bis fingers any more. 

On the trip southward in 1871, on which Hamblin re- 
turned Tuba and his wife to their home, he served as guide 
as far as the Ute ford for a party that was bearing pro- 
visions for the second Powell expedition. He arrived at the 
ford September 25, but remained only a day, then going 
on to Moen Copie, Oraibi and Fort Defiance, where he 
seems to have had some business to conclude with the 
chiefs. In his journal is told that he divided time at a 
Sunday meeting with a Methodist preacher. Returning, 
with three companions and nine Navajos, Hamblin reached 
the Paria October 28, taken across by the Powell party, 
though Powell had gone on from Ute ford to Salt Lake, 
there to get his family. The expedition had reached the 
ford October 6, and had dropped down the river to the 
Paria, where arrival was on the 22d. Hamblin went on to 
Salt Lake. 

The Sacred Stone of the Hopi 

The trust placed in Mormon visitors to the Hopi was 
shown by exhibition to them of a sacred stone. On one of 
the visits of Andrew S. Gibbons, accompanied by his sons, 

81 



Wm. H. and Richard, the three were guests of old Chief 
Tuba in Oraibi. Tuba told of this sacred stone and led his 
friends down into an underground kiva, from which Tuba's 
son was despatched into a more remote chamber. He 
returned bringing the stone. Apparently it was of very 
fine-grained marble, about 15x18 inches in diameter and 
a few inches in thickness. Its surface was entirely covered 
with hieroglyphic markings, concerning which there was 
no attempt at translation at the time, though there were 
etched upon it clouds and stars. The Indians appeared to 
have no translation and only knew that it was very sacred. 
Tuba said that at one time the stone incautiously was 
exhibited to an army officer, who attempted to seize it, but 
the Indians saved the relic and hid it more securely. 

The only official record available to this office, bearing 
upon the stone, is found in the preface of Ethnological 
Report No. 4, as follows: 

Mr. G. K. Gilbert furnished some data relating to the sacred 
stone kept by the Indians of the village of Oraibi, on the Moki mesas. 
This stone was seen by Messrs. John W. Young and Andrew S. Gib- 
bons, and the notes were made by Mr. Gilbert from those furnished 
him by Young. Few white men have had access to this sacred record, 
and but few Indians have enjoyed the privilege. The stone is a 
red-clouded marble, entirely different from anything found in the 
region. 

In the Land of the Navajo 

In 1871, 1872 and 1873 Hamblin did much exploration. 
He located a settlement on the Paria River, started a ranch 
in Rock House Valley and laid out a practicable route from 
Lee's Ferry to the Little Colorado. 

Actual use of the Lee's Ferry road by wagons was in 
the spring of 1873 by a party headed by Lorenzo W. Roun- 
dy, who crossed the Colorado at Lee's Ferry, passing on to 
Navajo Springs, seven miles beyond, and thence about ten 
miles to Bitter Springs and then on to Moen Copie. The 
last he described as a place "a good deal like St. George, 
having many springs breaking out from the hills, land 

82 



limited, partly impregnated with salts." He passed by a 
Moqui village and thence on to the overland mail route. 
The Little Colorado was described as "not quite the size 
of the Virgin River, water a little brackish, but better than 
that of the Virgin." In May of the same year, Hamblin 
piloted, as far as Moen Copie, the first ten wagons of the 
Haight expedition that failed in an attempt to found a 
settlement on the Little Colorado. 

Just as the Chiricahua Apaches to the southward found 
good pickings in Mexico, so the Navajo early recognized as 
a storehouse of good things, for looting, the Mormon set- 
tlements along the southern border of Utah. A degree of 
understanding was reached by the Mormons with the Ute. 
There was more or less trouble in the earlier days with the 
Paiute farther westward, this tribe having a number of 
subdivisions that had to be successively pacified by moral 
or forcible suasion. But it was with the Navajo that trouble 
existed in the largest measure. 

Hamblin was absolutely sure of the identity of the 
American Indians with the Lamanites of the Book of 
Mormon. He regarded the Indians at all times as brethren 
who had strayed from the righteous path and who might be 
brought back by the exercise of piety and patience. Very 
much like a Spanish friar of old, he cheerfully dedicated 
himself to this particular purpose, willing to accept even 
martyrdom if such an end were to serve the great purpose. 
Undoubtedly this attitude was the basis of his extraordi- 
nary fortitude and of the calmness with which he faced 
difficult situations. There is admission by him, however, 
that at one time he was very near indeed to death, this in 
the winter of 1873-74. It is noted that nearly all of Hamb- 
lin's trips in the wild lands of Arizona were at the direction 
of the Church authorities, for whom he acted as trail finder, 
road marker, interpreter, missionary and messenger of 
peace to the aborigines. 

So it happened that it was upon Hamblin that Brigham 

83 



Young placed dependence in a very serious situation that 
came through the killing of three Navajos, on the east fork 
of the Sevier River, a considerable distance into south- 
central Utah. Four Navajos had come northward to trade 
with the Ute. Caught by snow, they occupied a cabin be- 
longing to a non-Mormon named McCarty, incidentally 
killing one of his calves. McCarty, Frank Starr and a num- 
ber of associates descended upon the Indians, of whom one, 
badly wounded, escaped across the river, taking tidings to 
his tribesmen that the murder had been by Mormons. The 
Indian was not subtle enough to distinguish between sects, 
and so there was a call for bloody reprisals, directed against 
the southern Mormon settlements. The Indian Agent at 
Defiance sent an investigating party that included J. 
Lorenzo Hubbell. 
Hamblin's Greatest Experience 

In January, 1874, Hamblin left Kanab alone, on a mis- 
sion that was intended to pacify thousands of savage In- 
dians. Possibly since St. Patrick invaded Erin, no bolder 
episode had been known in history. He was overtaken by 
his son with a note from Levi Stewart, advising return, but 
steadfastly kept on, declaring, "I have been appointed to 
a mission by the highest authority of God on earth. My 
life is of small moment compared with the lives of the Saints 
and the interests of the kingdom of God. I determined to 
trust in the Lord and go on." At Moen Copie Wash he was 
joined by J. E. Smith and brother, not Mormons, but men 
filled with a spirit of adventure, for they were well informed 
concerning the prospective Navajo uprising. At a point a 
day's ride to the eastward of Tuba's home on Moen Copie 
Wash, the three arrived at a Navajo village, from which 
messengers were sent out summoning a council. 

The next noon, about February 1, the council started, 
in a lodge twenty feet long by twelve feet wide, constructed 
of logs, leaning to the center and covered with dirt. There 
was only one entrance. Hamblin and the Smiths were at 

84 




EARLY MISSIONARIES AMONG THE INDIANS 



1 — Andrew S. Gibbons 
3 — James Pearce 



2 — Frederick Hamblin 
4 — Samuel N. Adair 



the farther end. Between them and the door were 24 Nava- 
jos. In the second day's council came the critical time. 
Hamblin knew no Navajo and there had to be resort to a 
Paiute interpreter, a captive, terrified by fear that he too 
might be sacrificed if his interpretation proved unpleasant. 
His digest of a fierce Navajo discussion of an hour was that 
the Indians had concluded all Hamblin had said concerning 
the killing of the three men was a lie, that he was suspected 
of being a party to the killing, and, with the exception of 
three of the older Indians, all present had voted for Hamb- 
lin's death. They had distinguished the Smiths as "Ameri- 
cans," but they were to witness the torture of Hamblin and 
then be sent back to the Colorado on foot. The Navajos 
referred especially to Hamblin's counsel that the tribe cross 
the river and trade with the Mormons. Thus they had 
lost three good young men, who lay on the northern land for 
the wolves to eat. The fourth was produced to show his 
wounds and tell how he had traveled for thirteen days, 
cold and hungry and without a blanket. There was sug- 
gestion that Hamblin's death might be upon a bed of coals 
that smoked in the middle of the lodge. 

The Smiths tightened their grasps upon their revolvers. 
In a letter written by one of them was stated: 

Had we shown a symptom of fear, we were lost; but we sat perfectly 
quiet, and kept a wary eye on the foe. It was a thrilling scene. The 
erect, proud, athletic form of the young chief as he stood pointing his 
finger at the kneeling figure before him; the circle of crouching forms; 
their dusky and painted faces animated by every passion that hatred 
and ferocity could inspire, and their glittering eyes fixed with one 
malignant impulse upon us; the whole partially illuminated by the 
fitful gleam of the firelight (for by this time it was dark), formed a 
picture not easy to be forgotten. 

Hamblin behaved with admirable coolness. Not a muscle in his 
face quivered, not a feature changed as he communicated to us, in 
his usual tone of voice, what we then fully believed to be the death 
warrant of us all. When the interpreter ceased, he, in the same easy 
tone and collected manner, commenced his reply. He reminded the 
Indians of his long acquaintance with their tribe, of the many nego- 
tiations he had conducted between his people and theirs, and his many 

85 



dealings with them in years gone by, and challenged them to prove 
that he had ever deceived them, ever had spoken with a forked 
tongue. He drew a map of the country on the ground, and showed 
them the improbability of his having been a participant in the affray. 

In the end, the three were released after a discussion 
in the stifling lodge that had lasted for eleven hours, 
"with every nerve strained to its utmost tension and 
momentarily expecting a conflict which must be to the 
death." 

The Indians had demanded 350 head of cattle as re- 
compense, a settlement that Hamblin refused to make, 
but which he stated he would put before the Church 
authorities. Twenty-five days later, according to agree- 
ment, he met a delegation of Indians at Moabi. Later he 
took Chief Hastele, a well-disposed Navajo, and a party 
of Indians to the spot where the young men had been killed, 
and there demonstrated, to the satisfaction of the Indians, 
the falsity of the accusation that Mormons had been 
responsible. 

In April, 1874, understanding that the missionaries 
south of the river were in grave danger, a party of 35 men 
from Kanab and Long Valley, led by John R. Young, was 
dispatched southward. At Moen Copie was found a gather- 
ing of about forty. It appeared the reinforcement was just 
in time, as a Navajo attack on the post had been planned. 
Hamblin persisted in braving all danger and set out with 
Ammon M. Tenney and a few others for Fort Defiance, 
but found it unnecessary to go beyond Oraibi. 

The Utah affair, after agency investigation, was brought 
up again at Fort Defiance, August 21, with Hamblin and 
Tenney present, and settled in a way that left Hamblin 
full of thanksgiving. 

In 1875, Hamblin located a road from St. George to the 
Colorado River, by way of Grand Wash. 

The Old Scout's Later Years 

In May, 1876, Hamblin served as guide for Daniel H. 

86 



Wells, Erastus Snow and a number of other leading men of 
Utah on their way to visit the new Arizona settlements. 
The Colorado was at flood and the passage at Lee's Ferry, 
May 28, was a dangerous one. The ferryboat bow was drawn 
under water by the surges and the boat swept clear of three 
wagons, with the attendant men and their luggage. One 
man was lost, Lorenzo W. Roundy, believed to have been 
taken with a cramp. His body never was found. L. John 
Nuttall and Hamblin swam to safety on the same oar. 
Lorenzo Hatch, Warren Johnson and another clung to a 
wagon from which they were taken off by a skiff just as 
they were going over the rapids. 

In the same year, in December, Hamblin was assigned 
by President Young to lay out a wagon route from Pearce's 
Ferry, south of St. George, to Sunset on the Little Colorado. 
The Colorado was crossed at a point five miles above the 
old crossing. The animals were made to swim and the lug- 
gage was conveyed in a hastily constructed skiff. The 
route was a desert one, about on the same line as that to be 
used by the proposed Arizona-Utah highway between Grand 
Wash and the present Santa Fe railroad station of Antares. 
Returning, Hamblin went as far south as Fort Verde, where 
Post Trader W. S. Head advanced, without money, pro- 
visions enough to last until the party arrived at the Colo- 
rado, south of St. George. 

An interview at St. George with President Young 
succeeding this trip was the last known by Hamblin with 
the Church head, for the President died the following 
August. In that interview, December 15, 1876, Hamblin 
formally was ordained as "Apostle to the Lamanites." 

In the spring of 1877, Hamblin journeyed again into 
Arizona by the Lee's Ferry route to the Hopi towns, trying 
to find an escaping criminal. On this trip, the Hopi im- 
plored him to pray for rain, as their crops were dying. 
Possibly through his appeal to grace, rain fell very soon 
thereafter, assuring the Indians a crop of corn, squashes 

87 



and beans. There was little rain elsewhere. When Hamblin 
returned to his own home, he found his crops burned from 
drouth. 

The estimation in which the Indians held the old 
scout may have indication in a story told lately in the 
Historian's office by Jacob Hamblin Jr. It follows: 

One day my father sent me to trade a horse with an old Navajo 
Indian chief. I was a little fellow and I went on horseback, leading 
the horse to be traded. The old chief came out and lifted me down 
from my horse. I told him my father wanted me to trade the horse 
for some blankets. He brought out a number of handsome blankets, 
but, as my father had told me to be sure and make a good trade, I 
shook my head and said I would have to have more. He then brought 
out two buffalo robes and quite a number of other blankets and finally, 
when I thought I had done very well, I took the roll on my horse, and 
started for home. When I gave the blankets to my father, he unrolled 
them, looked at them, and then began to separate them. He put 
blanket after blanket into a roll and then did them up and told me to 
get on my horse and take them back and tell the chief he had sent me 
too many. When I got back, the old chief took them and smiled. He 
said, "I knew you would come back; I knew Jacob would not keep so 
many; you know Jacob is our father, as well as your father." 

In 1878 Hamblin moved to Arizona and was made a 
counselor to President Lot Smith. He was appointed in 
1879 to preside over the Saints in Round Valley, the present 
Springerville, living at Fort Milligan, about one mile west 
of the present Eagar. 

He died of malarial fever, August 31, 1886, at Pleasan- 
ton, in Williams Valley, New Mexico, where a settlement 
of Saints had been made in October, 1882. 

Hamblin's remains were removed from Pleasanton be- 
fore 1889, to Alpine, Arizona, where was erected a shaft 
bearing this very appropriate inscription: 

In memory of 

JACOB V. HAMBLIN, 

Born April 2, 1819, 

Died August 31, 1886. 

Peacemaker in the Camp of the Lamanites. 



88 



Chapter Nine 



(Crossing Ity ^tgfytg Colaraho 

Early Use of "El Vado de Los Padres" 

The story of the Colorado is most pertinent in a work 
such as this, for the river and its Grand Canyon formed a 
barrier that must be passed if the southward extension of 
Zion were to become an accomplished fact. Much of detail 
has been given elsewhere concerning the means of passage 
used by the exploring, missionary and settlement expedi- 
tions that had so much to do with Arizona's development. 
In this chapter there will be elaboration only to the extent 
of consideration of the ferries and fords that were used. 

The highest of the possible points for the crossing of 
the Colorado in Arizona, is on the very Utah line, in lati- 
tude 37. It is the famous "Vado de los Padres," the Cross- 
ing of the Fathers, also known as the Ute ford. The first 
historic reference concerning it is in the journal of the 
famous Escalante-Dominguez priestly expedition of 1776. 
The party returning from its trip northward as far as Utah 
Lake, reached the river, at the mouth of the Paria, about 
November 1. The stream was found too deep, so there was 
a scaling of hills to the Ute ford, which was reached Novem- 
ber 8. 

This ford is approached from the northward by natural 
steps down the precipices, traveled by horses with some 
difficulty. On the southern side, egress is by way of a long 
canyon that has few difficulties of passage. The ford, which 
is illustrated in the frontispiece of this work, reproduced 
from an official drawing of the Wheeler expedition, may be 
used more than half the year. In springtime the stream 

89 



is deep when the melted snows of the Rockies are drained 
by the spring freshet. Usually, the Mormon expeditions 
southward started well after the summer season, when the 
crossing could be made without particular danger. 

The Ute ford could hardly be made possible for wagon 
transportation, so there was early effort to find a route for 
a through road. As early as November, 1858, with some 
such idea in view, Jacob Hamblin was at the mouth of the 
Paria, 35 miles southwest of the Ute ford, but was com- 
pelled, then and also in November, 1859, to pursue his 
journey on, over the hills, to the ford. 

Ferrying at the Paria Mouth 

The first crossing of the river, at the mouth of the 
Paria, was made by a portion of a party, headed by Hamb- 
lin, in the fall of 1860. A raft was constructed, on which 
a few were taken across, but, after one animal had been 
drowned and there had been apparent demonstration that 
the dangers were too great, and that there was lack of a 
southern outlet, the party made its way up the river to the 
ford. 

The first successful crossing at the Paria was in March, 
1864, by Hamblin, on a raft. The following year there 
was a Mormon settlement at or near the Paria mouth. 
August 4, 1869, the first of the Powell expeditions reached 
the mouth of the Paria, this on the trip that ended at the 
mouth of the Virgin. 

In September, 1869, Hamblin crossed by means of a 
raft. That the route had been definitely determined upon 
was indicated by the establishment, January 31, 1870, of 
a Paria fort, with guards. In the fall of that year President 
Brigham Young visited the Paria, as is shown in a letter 
written by W. T. Stewart, this after the President had 
seen the mouth of the Virgin and otherwise had shown his 
interest in a southern outlet for Utah. In this same year, 
according to Dellenbaugh, Major Powell built a rough 
scow, in order to reach the Moqui towns. This was the 

90 



crossing in October, when Jacob Hamblin guided Powell to 
the Moqui villages and Fort Defiance. 

In his expedition of 1871, Powell left the river at the 
Ute ford and went to Salt Lake. A few days later, October 
22, his men, with a couple of boats, reached the Paria for 
a lengthy stay, surveying on the Kaibab plateau, in the 
vicinity of Kanab. It was written that the boat "Emma 
Dean" was hidden across the river. By that time ferry 
service had been established, for on October 28, 1871, 
Jacob Hamblin and companions, on their way home from 
the south, were rowed across. 

John D. Lee on the Colorado 

It is remarkable, in the march of history, how there will 
cling to a spot a name that, probably, should not have been 
attached and that should be forgotten. This happens to be 
the case with Lee's Ferry, a designation now commonly 
accepted for the mouth of the Paria, though it commemo- 
rates the Mountain Meadows massacre, through the name 
of the leading culprit in that awful frontier tragedy. Yet 
John Doyle Lee was at the river only a few years of all the 
years of the ferry's long period of use. The name seems to 
have been started within that time, firmly fixed in the 
chronicles of the Powell expedition, in the books of the 
expeditions later and of Dellenbaugh. 

John D. Lee located at the mouth of the Paria early in 
1872 and named it "Lonely Dell," by Dellenbaugh con- 
sidered a most appropriate designation. Lee built a log 
cabin and acquired some ferry rights that had been pos- 
sessed by the Church. 

An interesting detail of the ferry is given by J. H. 
Beadle, in his "Western Wilds." He told of reaching the 
ferry from the south June 28, 1872. The attention of a 
ferryman could not be attracted, so there was use of a 
boat that was found hidden in the sand and brush. This 
was the "Emma Dean," left by Powell. The ferryman 
materialized two days later, calling himself "Major Doyle," 

91 



but his real identity was developed soon thereafter. Beadle 
gives about a chapter to his interview with Lee, whom he 
called "a born fanatic." Beadle, who had written much 
against the Church, also had given a false name, but his 
identity was discovered by Mrs. Lee through clothing 
marks. Beadle quoted "Mrs. Doyle" as saying that her 
husband had been with the Mormon Battalion. This was 
hardly exact, though it does appear that Lee, October 
19, 1846, was in Santa Fe with Howard Egan, the couple 
returning to Council Bluffs with pay checks the Battalion 
members were sending back toward the support of their 
families. The two messengers had overtaken the Battalion 
at the Arkansas crossing. But Beadle slept safely in Lee's 
house, which he left on Independence Day, departing by 
way of Jacob's Pools. 

July 13, another of Powell's boats was brought down 
the river. Just a month later, Powell arrived at Lonely 
Dell from Kanab. August 17, he started down the river 
again from the Paria, leaving the "Nellie Powell" to the 
ferryman. This trip was of short duration, for the river 
was left, finally, at Kanab Wash. 

In May, 1873, came the first of the real southern Mor- 
mon migration. This was when H. D. Haight and his party 
crossed the river at the Paria, on a trip that extended only 
about to Grand Falls, but which was notable from the fact 
that it laid out the first Mormon wagon road south of the 
river, down to and along the Little Colorado. 

October 15, 1873, was launched at the ferry, by John 
L. Blythe, a much larger boat than had been known before, 
made of timber brought from a remote point near the Utah 
line. That same winter Hamblin located a new road from 
the Paria mouth to the San Francisco Mountains. 

In June of 1874, an Indian trading post was established 
at the ferry and there was erection of what was called a 
"strong fort." 

In the fall of 1874, Lee departed from the river, this 

92 



for the purpose of securing provisions in the southern 
settlements of Utah. Several travelers noted in their 
journals that Lee wanted nothing but provisions in exchange 
for ferry tolls. It was on this trip he was captured by United 
States marshals in southern Utah, thereafter to be tried, 
convicted and legally executed by shooting (March 23, 
1877), on the spot where his crime had been committed. 

Lee's Canyon Residence Was Brief 

Much of romance is attached to Lee's residence on the 
Colorado. The writer has heard many tales how Lee worked 
rich gold deposits nearby, how he explored the river and 
its canyons and how, for a time, he was in seclusion among 
the Hava-Supai Indians in the remote Cataract Canyon, 
to which, there was assumption, he had brought the fruit 
seeds from which sprang the Indian orchards. This would 
appear to be mainly assumption, for Lee made his living by 
casual ferrying, and had to be on hand when the casual 
traveler called for his services. Many of the old tales are 
plausible, and have had acceptance in previous writings 
of the Author, but it now appears that Lee's residence on 
the Canyon was only as above stated. J. Lorenzo Hubbell 
states that Lee was at Moen Copie for a while before 
going to take charge of the ferry. 

In the summer of 1877, Ephriam K. Hanks was advised 
by President Brigham Young to buy the ferry, but this 
plan fell through on the death of the President. The ferry, 
later, was bought from Emma Lee by Warren M. Johnson, 
as Church agent, he paying 100 cows, which were con- 
tributed by the people of southern Utah and northern 
Arizona settlements, they receiving tithing credits therefor. 

About ten years ago, Lee's Ferry was visited by Miss 
Sharlot M. Hall, Arizona Territorial Historian. She wrote 
entertainingly of her trip, by wagon, northwest into the 
Arizona Strip, much of her diary published in 1912 in 
the Arizona Magazine. The Lee log cabin showed that some 
of its logs originally had been used in some sort of raft or 

93 



rude ferryboat. There also was found in the yard a boat, 
said to have been one of those of the Powell expedition. 
This may have been the "Nellie Powell." 

Of the Lee occupancy, Miss Hall tells a little story 
that gives insight into the trials of the women of the 
frontier: 

When Lee's wife stayed here alone, as she did much of the time, 
the Navajo Indians often crossed here and they were not always 
friendly. A party of them came one night and built their campfire 
in the yard and Mrs. Lee understood enough of their talk to know 
she was in danger. Brave woman as she was, she knew she must 
overawe them, and she took her little children and went out and 
spread a bed near the fire in the midst of the hostile camp and stayed 
there till morning. When the Navajos rode away they called her a 
brave woman and said she should be safe in the future. 

The first real ferryboat was that built by John L. 
Blythe, on October 15, 1873, a barge 20x40 feet, one that 
would hold two wagons, loads and teams. It was in this 
boat that the Jas. S. Brown party crossed in 1875, and a 
much larger migration to the Little Colorado in the spring of 
1876. 

In 1877, there was consideration of the use of the 
Paria road, as a means for hauling freight into Arizona, at 
least as far as Prescott, which was estimated by R. J. 
Hinton as 448 miles distant from the terminus, at that 
time, of the Utah Southern Railroad. Via St. George and 
Grand Wash, the haul was set at 391 miles, though the 
Paria route seemed to be preferred. It should be remem- 
bered that at that time the nearest railroad was west of 
Yuma, a desert journey from Prescott of about 350 
miles. 

Grossing the Colorado on the Ice 

The Paria crossing had served as route of most of the 
Mormon migration south. The ferry has been passed 
occasionally by river explorers, particularly by the Stanton 
expedition, which reached that point on Christmas Day, 
1889, in the course of a trip down the Colorado that ex- 

94 



tended as far as salt water. The ferryboat was not needed 
at one stage of the history of Lee's Ferry. The story comes 
in the journals of several members of a missionary party. 
Anthony W. Ivins (now a member of the Church First 
Presidency) and Erastus B. Snow reached the river Janu- 
ary 16, 1878, about the same time as did John W. Young 
and a number of prospective settlers bound for the Little 
Colorado. The Snow narrative of the experience 
follows: 

The Colorado River, the Little Colorado and all the springs and 
watering places were frozen over. Many of the springs and tanks 
were entirely frozen up, so that we were compelled to melt snow and 
ice for our teams. We (that is J. W. Young and I), crossed our team 
and wagon on the ice over the Colorado. I assure you it was quite 
a novelty to me, to cross such a stream of water on ice; many other 
heavily loaded wagons did the same, some with 2500 pounds on. 
One party did a very foolish trick, which resulted in the loss of an 
ox; they attempted to cross three head of large cattle all yoked and 
chained together, and one of the wheelers stepped on a chain that 
was dragging behind, tripped and fell, pulling his mate with him, 
thereby bringing such a heft on the ice that it broke through, letting 
the whole into the water; but the ice being sufficiently strong they could 
stand on it and pull them out one at a time. One got under the ice 
and was drowned, the live one swimming some length of time hold- 
ing the dead one up by the yoke. 

Concerning the same trip, Mr. Ivins has written the 
Arizona Historian that, "the river was frozen from shore 
to shore, but, above and below for a short distance, the 
river was open and running rapidly." Great care was 
taken in crossing, the wagons with their loads usually 
pulled over by hand and the horses taken over singly. 
Thus the ice was cracked. Mr. Ivins recites the episode 
of the oxen and then tells that a herd of cattle was taken 
across by throwing each animal, tying its legs and drag- 
ging it across. One man could drag a grown cow over the 
smooth ice. Mr. Ivins tells that he remained at the river 
several days, crossing on the ice 32 times. On the 22d the 
missionaries and settlers all were at Navajo Springs, ready 

95 



to continue the journey. It is believed that the Colorado 
has not been frozen over since that time. 

There now is prospect that the Paria route between 
Utah and Arizona will be much bettered by construction 
of a road that avoids Paria Creek and attains the summit of 
the mesa, to the northward, within a comparatively short 
distance. At a point six miles below the ferry, the County of 
Coconino, with national aid, is preparing for construction of 
a suspension bridge, with a 400-foot span. Upon its comple- 
tion, Lee's Ferry will pass, save for its place in history. 

Crossings Below the Grand Canyon 

Below Lee's Ferry comes the Grand Canyon of the 
Colorado, cut a full mile deep for about 200 miles, in a wind- 
ing channel, with only occasional spots where trails are 
feasible to the river's edge. A suspension bridge is being 
erected by the United States Forest Service below El Tovar, 
with a trail northward up Bright Angel Canyon. A feasible 
trail exists from the mouth of Kanab Wash to the north- 
ward. To the southward there is possibility of approach 
to the river by wagon at Diamond Creek, but the first real 
crossing lies immediately below the great Canyon at Grand 
Wash, a point where there was ferrying, in 1862, by Hamb- 
lin and a party who brought a boat from Kanab. Return 
on this expedition was via the Ute ford. Hamblin, with 
Lewis Greeley, crossed again at the Grand Wash in April, 
1863, and there is record of a later trip of indefinite date, 
made by him on the river from Grand Wash to Callville, 
in company with Crosby and Miller. Several of the Hamb- 
lin expeditions crossed at Grand Wash in the years there- 
after, but it appears that it was not until December, 1876, 
that a regular ferry there was established, this by Harrison 
Pearce. The place bears the name of Pearce's Ferry unto 
this day, though the maps give it as "Pierce." A son of 
Harrison Pearce, and former assistant in the operation of 
the ferry, James Pearce, was the first settler of Taylor on 
Silver Creek, Arizona, where he still resides. 

96 



The next ferry was at the mouth of the Virgin, where 
there were boats for crossing at necessity, including the time 
when President Brigham Young and party visited the 
locality, in March, 1870. When the settlers on the Muddy 
and the Virgin balloted upon the proposition of abandoning 
the country, Daniel Bonelli and wife were the only ones 
who voted the negative. When the Saints left southern 
Nevada, Bonelli and wife moved to a point about six miles 
below the mouth of the Virgin, and there established a 
ferry that still is owned by a son of the founder. This is 
the same noted on government maps as Stone's Ferry, 
though there has been a change of a few miles in location. 
About midway between the Virgin and Grand Wash, 
about 1881, was established the Mike Scanlon ferry. 
Downstream, early-day ferries were operated at the El 
Dorado canyon crossing and on the Searchlight road, at 
Cottonwood Island. W. H. Hardy ferried at Hardy ville. 
About the later site of Fort Mohave, Capt. Geo. A. John- 
ston, January 23, 1858, in a sternwheel steamer, ferried the 
famous Beale camel expedition across the river. 

Settlements North of the Canyon 

Moccasin Springs, a few miles south of the Utah line 
and eighteen miles by road southwest of Kanab, has had 
no large population at any time, save that about 100 Indians 
were in the vicinity in 1900. The place got its name from 
moccasin tracks in the sand. The site was occupied some 
time before 1864 by Wm. B. Maxwell, but was vacated in 
1866 on account of Indian troubles. In the spring of 1870, 
Levi Stewart and others stopped there for a while, with a 
considerable company, breaking land, but moved on to 
found Kanab, north of the line. This same company also 
made some improvements around Pipe Springs. About a 
year later, a company under Lewis Allen, mainly from the 
Muddy, located temporarily at Pipe Springs and Moccasin. 
To some extent there was a claim upon the two localities 
by the United Order or certain of its members. The place 

97 



for years was mainly a missionary settlement, but it was 
told that "even when the brethren would plow and plant 
for them, the Indians were actually too lazy to attend to 
the growing crops." 

That the climate of Moccasin favors growth of sturdy 
manhood is indicated by the history of one of its families, 
that of Jonathan Heaton. At hand is a photograph taken 
in 1905, of Heaton and his fifteen sons. Two of the sons 
died in accidents within the past two years, but the others 
all grew to manhood, and all were registered for the draft 
in the late war. With the photograph is a record that, of 
the whole family, not one individual has tasted tea, coffee, 
tobacco or liquor of any kind. 

Arizona's First Telegraph Station 

Pipe Springs is situate three miles south of Moccasin 
Springs and eight miles south of the Utah line. It was 
settled as early as 1863 by Dr. Jas. M. Whitmore, who owned 
the place when he was killed by the Indians January 8, 
1866. President Brigham Young purchased the claims of 
the Whitmore estate and in 1870 there established head- 
quarterk of a Church herd, in charge of Anson P. Winsor. 
Later was organized the Winsor Castle Stock Growing 
Company, in which the Church and President Young held 
controlling interest. It is notable that one of the directors 
was Alexander F. Macdonald, later President of Maricopa 
Stake. At the spring, late in 1870, was erected a sizable stone 
building, usually known as Winsor Castle, a safe refuge 
from savages, or others, with portholes in the walls. In 
1879 the company had consolidation with the Canaan Co- 
operative Stock Company. The name, Pipe Springs, had 
its origin, according to A. W. Ivins, in a halt made there 
by Jacob Hamblin and others. William Hamblin claimed 
he could shoot the bottom out of Dudley Leavitt's pipe at 
25 yards, without breaking the bowl. This he proceeded 
to do. 

Pipe Springs was a station of the Deseret Telegraph, 

98 



extended in 1871 from Rockville to Kanab. While the 
latter points are in Utah, the wires were strung southward 
around a mountainous country along the St. George-Kanab 
road. This would indicate location of the first telegraph 
line within Arizona, as the first in the south, a military fine 
from Fort Yuma to Maricopa Wells, Phoenix, Prescott and 
Tucson, was not built till 1873. 

Arizona's Northernmost Village 

Fredonia is important especially as the northernmost 
settlement of Arizona, being only three miles south of the 
37th parallel that divides Utah and this State. It lies on the 
east bank of Kanab Creek, and is the center of a small 
tract of farming land, apparently ample for the needs of the 
few settlers, who have their principal support from stock 
raising. The first settlement was from Kanab in the spring 
of 1885, by Thomas Frain Dobson, who located his family 
in a log house two miles below the present Fredonia town- 
site. The following year the townsite was surveyed and 
there was occupation by Henry J. Hortt and a number of 
others. 

fl! The name was suggested by Erastus Snow, who visited 
the settlement in its earliest days, naturally coming from 
the fact that many of the residents were from Utah, seeking 
freedom from the enforcement of federal laws. 

Fredonia is in Coconino County, Arizona, with county 
seat at Flagstaff, 145 miles distant in air line, but across the 
Grand Canyon. The easiest method of communication 
with the county seat is by way of Utah and Nevada, a 
distance of over 1000 miles. 

Fredonia was described by Miss Sharlot M. Hall, as 
"the greenest, cleanest, quaintest village of about thirty 
families, with a nice schoolhouse and a church and a pic- 
turesque charm not often found, and this most northerly 
Arizona town is almost one of the prettiest. The fields of 
alfalfa and grain lie outside of the town along a level val- 
ley and are dotted over with haystacks, showing that crops 

99 



have been good." Reference is made to the fact that some 
of the famihes were descended from the settlers of the Mud- 
dy Valley. There had been the usual trouble in the building 
of irrigating canals and the washing away of headgates by 
floods that came down Kanab Creek. Miss Hall continued, 
"I am constantly impressed with the courage and persis- 
tence of the Mormon colony; they have good, comfortable 
houses here that have been built with the hardest labor 
amidst floods and drouth and all sorts of discouragement. 
It is one of the most beautiful valleys I have seen in Arizona 
and has a fine climate the year round; but these first settlers 
deserve a special place in history by the way they have 
turned the wilderness into good farms and homes." 

Concerning the highway to Fredonia, Miss Hall ob- 
serves, "The Mormon colonists who traveled this road 
certainly had grit when they started, and grit enough more 
to last the rest of their lives on the road." 

For years efforts have been made by Utah to secure 
from Arizona the land lying north of the Colorado River, 
on the ground that, topographically, it really belongs to 
the northern division, and that its people are directly con- 
nected by birth and religion with the people of Utah. As 
a partial offset, they have offered that part of Utah that 
lies south of the San Juan River, thus to be created a 
northern Arizona boundary wholly along water courses. 
The suggestion, repeatedly put before Arizona Legislatures, 
invariably has met with hostile reception, especially based 
upon the desire to keep the whole of the Grand Canyon 
within Arizona. Indeed, in later years, the great 200-mile 
gorge of the Colorado more generally is referred to as the 
Grand Canyon of Arizona, this in order to avoid confusion 
with any scenic attributes of the State of Colorado. 



100 



2 '"tf 



~ ~S- 

x' I— I 

o 2 

? O 

£ S3 

g' o 



t> l-H 




I 





MOCCASIN SPRINGS ON ROAD TO THE PARIA 




IN THE KAIBAB FOREST NEAR THE HOME OF THE 
SHIVWITS INDIANS 



Chapter Ten 



JVrizmta s Pumeer ^uriljtast 

History of the Southern Nevada Point 

Assuredly within the purview of this work is the settle- 
ment of what now is the southern point of Nevada, a part 
of the original area of New Mexico and, hence, included 
within the Territory of Arizona when created in 1863. This 
embraced the district south of latitude 37, westward to 
the California line, west and north of the Colorado River. 
The main stream of the district is the Virgin, with a drain- 
age area of 11,000 square miles, Muddy River and Santa 
Clara Creek being its main tributaries. It is a toirential 
stream, subject to sudden floods and carrying much silt. 
A section of its valley in the northwestern corner of the 
present Arizona, near Littlefield, is to be dammed in the 
near future for the benefit of small farms that have been 
cultivated for many years and for carrying out irrigation 
plans of much larger scope. 

Especial interest attaches to this district through the 
fact that its area once was embraced within the now almost 
forgotten Arizona County of Pah-ute or was part of the 
present Arizona county of Mohave. 

In the Bancroft Library at Berkeley, much information 
concerning the Nevada point, was found in a series of pio- 
neer maps. Of very early designation were old Las Vegas 
Springs and Beaver Dams, the latter now known as 
Littlefield. South of the 37th parallel, on a map of 1873, are 
found Cane Springs, Grapevine Springs and West Point, 
with Las Vegas (Sp., The Meadows) and Cottonwood as 
stations on the Mormon road, which divided to the west- 
ward at the last-named point. 

101 



The main road to Callville appears to have been down 
the Virgin for a short distance from St. Thomas, and then 
to have led over the hills to the westward. From Callville, 
a road connected with the main highway at Las Vegas. 

A map of California, made by W. M. Eddy in 1853, has 
some interesting variations of the northwestern New Mexico 
nomenclature. The Muddy is set down as El Rio Atascoso 
(Sp., "Boggy") and Vegas Wash as Ojo del Gaetan (gal- 
leta grass?). Nearby was Agua Escorbada, where scurvy 
grass probably was found. There also was Hernandez 
Spring. There was an outline of the Potosi mining dis- 
trict. North of Las Vegas on a California map of 1864, 
was placed the "Old Mormon Fort." Reference by the 
reader is asked to the description of the Old Spanish Trail, 
which was followed partially by the line of the later Mormon 
road. 

On a late map of the section that was lost by Arizona to 
Nevada, today are noted only the settlements of Bunker- 
ville, Moapa, Logan, St. Joseph, Mesquite, Overton and 
St. Thomas. There is a ferry at Rioville, at the mouth of 
the Virgin, and another is at Grand Wash. The name of 
Las Vegas is borne by a railroad station on the Salt Lake 
and Los Angeles line, a few miles from the Springs. There 
are the mining camps of Pahrump, Manse, Keystone, 
El Dorado and Newberry. The westernmost part of the 
triangle, at an elevation of about 3000 feet, is occupied 
by the great Amargosa desert, which descends abruptly 
on the California side into the sink of Death Valley to 
below sea level. There has been no development of large 
value in this strip. Its interest to Arizona is merely his- 
torical. 

Today, few Arizonans know that Pah-ute County once 
existed as an Arizona subdivision, or that Nevada took a 
part of Arizona, or that later, Nevada was given full 
sixty miles expansion eastward of her boundary line, at 
the expense of both Arizona and Utah. The natural 

102 




777*" 



39 

77«' 



Former 
Utah line ss' 



Sii_ Present 
> Utah line 37 



103 



boundary line in that section between Nevada and Arizona 
would have been the Virgin River. 

The information contained in this chapter has been 
gathered from diverse sources, but largely from the records 
of the Church Historian at Salt Lake, wherein, practically, 
is the only history of the Mormon settlements of the south- 
western section of what was and is known as "Utah's 
Dixie." 

The southern Nevada point had some value in a 
mineral way. As early as 1857, Mormons worked the 
Potosi silver mines, eighteen miles southwest of Las Vegas. 
Little data is at hand concerning their value. In Bancroft 
is found this sober chronicle: "Believing the mines to be 
lead, Brigham Young sent miners to work them, in antici- 
pation of war with the United States, but the product 
was found too hard for bullets and the mines were aban- 
doned." 

The Congressional Act of May, 1866, giving Nevada 
all that part of Arizona lying between the Colorado River 
and California, from about longitude 114, took from 
Arizona 31,850 square miles. This followed the extension 
of Nevada eastward for one degree of longitude. Annexed 
was appropriation of $17,000 for surveys. 

Missionaries of the Desert 

In the record of the Whipple expedition of 1853-4, 
is found evidence of Mormon influence already material in 
the Southwest. Whipple thought highly of the agricultural 
possibilities of the valley of the Colorado River, above the 
mouth of Bill Williams' Fork and wrote, "The Mormons 
made a great mistake in not occupying the valley of the 
Colorado." This Whipple expedition made a painful 
journey from the Colorado across the Mohave desert and, 
on March 13, 1854, struck what even then was known as 
the Mormon Road. The next day Whipple met a party of 
Mormons en route to Salt Lake. He told them of the mur- 
der of one of his Mexican herders by the Paiutes, but the 

104 



travelers expressed no fear. They said they were at peace 
with the Indians, a statement over which Whipple expressed 
surprise. 

About the earliest American occupation of the southern 
Nevada point available in the records upon which this 
office has worked, appears to have been the detail fry 
Brigham Young in 1854 of a party of thirty young men 
"to go to Las Vegas, build a fort there to protect immi- 
grants and the United States mail from the Indians, and 
to teach the latter how to raise corn, wheat, potatoes, 
squash and melons." 

The missionary party arrived at Las Vegas June 14, 
1855. Four days later was started construction of an adobe 
fort on the California road, on an eminence overlooking the 
valley. This fort, 150 feet square, had walls, upon a stone 
foundation, fourteen feet high, with bastions on the south- 
east and northwest corners. Gates were not procured until 
the following year. Houses were built against the inside 
of the wall and lots were drawn to decide just where each 
of the brethren should erect his dwelling. There was a 
garden plot, just below, on the creek, and small farms 
were provided nearby. Inside the fort was a schoolhouse, 
in which meetings also were held, this indicating that 
families soon followed the pioneer missionaries. It is told 
that "the gospel was preached and that many Indians 
were converted and baptized." 

One of these missionaries was Benjamin Cluff, who in 
later years became a prominent member of the Gila Valley 
settlements in Arizona. In his biography is found notation 
that the Las Vegas missionaries worked in lead mines, 
assumed to have been those in the Potosi section. Some 
of this lead undoubtedly went back to Utah but, happily, 
was not used at the time of the 1858 invasion. 

Another notable member was Wm. C. A. Smoot who 
died in Salt Lake City in the spring of 1920, and who was 
one of the original Pioneers who reached Salt Lake July 

105 



24, 1847. Having been the last of the first pioneer company 
to enter the valley, it was quite in keeping that he was the 
last of the company to leave the valley for the celestial 
shores. 

Here there might be notation that of the venerated 
Salt Lake Pioneers, the following-named later had resi- 
dence in Arizona: Edmund Ellsworth, Charles Shumway, 
Edson Whipple, Francis M. Pomeroy, Conrad Klineman, 
Andrew S. Gibbons and Joseph Matthews. 

Of the Pioneers of especial distinction, the following- 
named were later visitors to Arizona: Brigham Young, 
Wilford Woodruff, Geo. A. Smith, Erastus Snow, Amasa 
M. Lyman and Lorenzo D. Young. 

Missionaries John Steele and Wm. A. Follett were 
former Battalion members. 

Rufus C. Allen, who was Private No. 1 of the First 
Company of the Mormon Battalion, returned from Chile 
to become a missionary in the Las Vegas section and in the 
Virgin River country. One of Allen's daughters, Mrs. 
Rachael Berry of St. Johns, represented Apache County 
in the House of Representatives of Arizona's Second State 
Legislature, in 1915. 

Diplomatic Dealings with the Redskins 

With the exception of the missionaries and the travelers 
between Utah and San Bernardino, the white man had 
little place in the southern point of Nevada in the early 
days. At hand, however, is a tale of the adventures of Ira 
Hatch, who was sent into the lonely, barren desert in the 
hope that something of missionary value might be done 
with the Indians. These Indians, Paiutes, were described 
as "always ready to attack the weak and defenseless 
traveler, including any opportunity to prey upon the ani- 
mals of the watchful and strong." Nevertheless mission- 
aries from southern Utah attempted Christianization. 
Whatever their degree of success, and though often in 
serious danger, they made the redskins understand that, 

106 



personally, they were friendly. This missionary effort, it 
was hoped, would serve to make safer the through road. 

Elder Hatch, in January, 1858, was sent alone into the 
Muddy Valley, 100 miles from the nearest settlement, 
Santa Clara. He was among the savages for two weeks, 
camped in a broken-down wagon left by one of the Cris- 
mons. His main trouble was in saving food from the 
Indians, who descended upon him like locusts and mani- 
fested their friendliness by stealing everything they could 
carry away. Hatch held the fort, however, translating and 
serving as guide for travelers, and occasionally having to 
threaten with his pistol redskins who menaced him with 
their bows and arrows. 

After a fortnight, Jacob Hamblin sent him a companion, 
Thales Haskell, another noted pioneer, and together the 
two spent the balance of the winter in the lonely outpost. 
There was an interesting diversion in the passage of Col. 
Thos. L. Kane, the statesman who had done so much for 
the Mormon people at the time of exodus from Nauvoo and 
who later served so effectively as a mediator between De- 
seret and the national government. Kane, with a party, 
was on his way from California to Salt Lake. He had an 
idea of creating a haven of refuge for beleagured travelers 
in a cave about sixty miles northeast of Overton. In this 
cave he had placed bottles of medicine, which he wished 
the Indians to understand was good only for white men. 
This refuge he called the "Travelers' Home." It had been 
known as "Dr. Osborn's Cave." 

A number of the Indians were gathered and a treaty was 
concluded. At this meeting there developed the unusual 
condition that Hatch had spent so much time with the 
Indians that his English was very imperfect and broken, 
while Colonel Kane's language was of cultured sort, un- 
familiar and almost unintelligible to Hatch. So a third 
person (Amasa M. Lyman) had to interpret between Kane 
and Hatch and the latter then interpreted to the Indians, 

107 



the return message going the same route back to the 
Colonel. Inasmuch as the treaty had been upon the basis 
of certain trade articles that were to have been furnished 
by the Utah Indian agent, and were not furnished, the 
contract was not completed. Ammon M. Tenney, a mere 
lad, spent several months in Las Vegas at that time. Hatch 
and Haskell returned to their homes in Utah in March, 
1858. 

Near Approaches to Indian Warfare 

Continual trouble was known with the Indians, though, 
after a few years, was written, "many of the Indians are 
being taught to labor and are learning better things than 
to rob and murder." 

When the first agricultural settlers came, they were 
visited by To-ish-obe, principal chief of the Muddy In- 
dians, and a party of other redskins, who transmitted in- 
formation that had been sent them to the effect that 
President Erastus Snow had planned to poison the Muddy 
and kill off all the Indians. The chief was disabused of 
the idea. 

The same chief appears to have been decent enough. 
In February, 1866, there is record how he had declared out- 
laws two Indians who had stolen horses and cattle. One 
of these Indians, Co-quap, was taken prisoner and was 
killed at St. Thomas. About the same time, Indians on the 
Muddy, above Simonsville (a grist mill site), stole wheat 
from about thirty acres and left for the mountains, threaten- 
ing the Muddy settlers. Within a month, 32 head of horses, 
mules and cattle were driven off by Indians, from St. 
Joseph and Simonsville. An expedition of 25 men started 
after the marauders, but failed to recapture the stock. 

Andrew S. Gibbons (who had come in 1864), sought 
To-ish-obe on the upper Muddy, to interpret and make 
peace, if possible. In June at St. Joseph was a conference 
between Erastus Snow and a group of the leading Indians, 
representing the Santa Clara, Muddy, Colorado and other 

108 




A STREET IN FREDOXIA 




WALPI— ONE OF THE HOPI (MOQUI) VILLAGES 




WARREN M. JOHNSON'S HOUSE AT PAR I A FERRY 




CROSSING THE COLORADO AT THE PARIA FERRY 



bands, in all seven chiefs and 64 of their men. The con- 
ference was an agreeable one and it was felt that some good 
had been done. 

There was more trouble with the Indians in February, 
1868, when the tribesmen on the upper Muddy, where a new 
settlement had been formed, came to the camp in anger, 
with blackened faces, armed with bows and arrows, to 
demand pay for grain lands that had been occupied by 
the whites. Gibbons acted as peacemaker, but told, "the 
fact that the brethren were all well armed appeared to 
pacify the Indians more than any arguments." The 
farmers formed in battle line, with Helaman Pratt as 
captain, Gibbons in front, interpreting. 

The Indians of the region, mainly Paiutes, were a 
never-ending source of irritation and of potential danger to 
the settlers. They had grown fields of a few acres along the 
Muddy and hence resented the coming of the settlers who 
might include the aboriginal farms within their holdings. 
In accordance with the traditional policy of the Church, 
however, conciliation was used wherever possible, though 
the settlers sometimes, when goaded to the last extremity, 
had to exhibit firearms and make a show of force. 

In 1868, Joseph W. Young wrote, "These Indians were 
considered about the worst specimens of the race. They 
lived almost in a state of nudity and were among the worst 
thieves on the continent. But through the kind, though 
determined, course pursued towards them by our brethren 
who have been among them, they are greatly changed for 
the better, and I believe I may safely say that they are the 
best workers of all the tribes. They are, nevertheless, 
Indians, and much wisdom is required to get along with 
them pleasantly. Brother Andrew Gibbons is worthy of 
honorable mention, because of the good influence that he 
maintains over these rude men." 

In November, 1870, the Indians were reported "very 
hostile and saucy." The Chemehuevis and Mohaves were 

109 



at war. A band of the former, about 100 or more, came into 
the Muddy Valley. In December a band of Wallapai came 
for a friendly visit. 

Utilization of the Colorado River 

The Colorado River drains nearly all the lands of 
present Mormon settlement, mainly lying betwixt the 
Rockies and the Sierras. The Colorado, within the United 
States is reckoned as only inferior to the Mississippi-Mis- 
souri and Columbia, with an annual flow sufficient to supply 
for irrigation needs about 20,000,000 acre feet of water. 
It has a drainage area of 244,000 square miles and a length 
of 1700 miles. It is of torrential character, very big indeed 
in the late spring and early summer and very low most of 
the remainder of the year. In years, not far distant, there 
will be storage dams at many points, to hold back the 
springtime floods from the melting of the snows of the 
Rockies, and from the river's flow will be generated electric 
power for the turning of the wheels of the Southwest. All 
this is in plans made by the League of the Southwest, a 
body now headed by Governor Campbell of Arizona. But 
these things are of the future, and it is the past we especial- 
ly are considering. 

Several attempts were made during and prior to the 
Civil War to make of the Colorado a highway through 
which Utah, southern Nevada and northern Arizona might 
have better transportation. The scheme was not a wild 
one by any means, though handicapped by the difficulties 
of both the maximum and minimum flows. 

Inspector General J. F. Rusling had recommended that 
military supplies for the forces in Utah be brought in by 
way of the Colorado River. 

Fort Yuma was visited late in 1854 by Lieut. N. Michler, 
of the Topographical Engineers, who wrote: 

The belief is entertained and strongly advocated that the Colo- 
rado will be the means of supplying the Mormon territory, instead 
of the great extent of land transportation now used for that purpose. 

110 



Its headwaters approach the large settlements of Utah and may one 
day become the means of bearing away the products of those pioneers 
of the far West. With this idea prominent in the minds of specula- 
tors, a city on paper, bearing the name of "Colorado City," had already 
been surveyed, the streets and blocks marked out and many of them 
sold. It is situated on the east bank, opposite Fort Yuma. 

From 1858 to about 1882, even after the Santa Fe 
railroad had reached Needles, there was much traffic on 
the Colorado. Supplies went by river to the mines, which 
sent downstream occasional shipments of ore. Military 
supplies went by water to Fort Mohave or to Ehrenberg, 
the latter point a depot for Whipple Barracks and other 
posts. Salt came down stream from the Virgin River mines, 
for use mainly in the amalgamation processes of the small 
stamp mills of the period. 

Steamboats on the Shallow Stream 

Traffic on the river had been established as early as 
December, 1852. Capt. Geo. A. Johnston, an early steam- 
boat pilot, ferried the Beale party, in January, 1858, 
near where Fort Mohave later was established. Johnston 
made several trips far up the river with the Jesup and with 
a newer steamer, the Colorado. He is understood to have 
gone even farther than Lieut. J. C. Ives, of the Topo- 
graphical Corps, in the little steamer Explorer. This stern- 
wheeler made the trip in January, 1858, and was passed 
by Johnston on his way downstream. The river was at 
low stage and the Explorer butted into snags and muddy 
banks continually. Finally there was disaster when Black 
Canyon was reached, when the boat ran upon a sunken 
rock. Ives rowed as far up as Vegas Wash. 

In 1866, the Arizona Legislature, at Prescott, by resolu- 
tion thanked "Admiral" Robert Rogers, commander of the 
steamer Esmeralda, and Capt. William Gilmore, for the 
successful accomplishment of the navigation of the Colorado 
River to Callville, "effected by the indomitable energy of 
the enterprising Pacific and Colorado Navigation Co.," 
a concern managed by Thos. E. Trueworthy, an experienced 

111 



steamboat man from the Sacramento River of California. 
Both Arizona and Nevada Legislatures petitioned Congress 
to improve the stream. 

Captain Johnston later formed the Colorado Steam 
Navigation Company and, more or less, controlled the 
river traffic for years. There were other noted Captains, 
including C. V. Meeden, Isaac Polhamus, A. D. Johnson, 
William Poole, S. Thorn, J. H. Godfrey and J. A. Mellen. 

Captain Mellen told that sometimes schooner barges 
were used in the lower canyons, where the wind was either 
upstream or downstream. When it was downstream, the 
upward-bound craft moored until the breeze changed to 
astern. 

The deck hands were Cocopah or Yuma Indians, am- 
phibious, always ready to plunge overboard to help in 
lightening their craft over any of the numerous sand bars. 
Mellen told of lying 52 days in one bar and of often being 
held up for a week. There was no possible mapping of the 
river channel, for the bars changed from week to week. 
Even in the earliest times, steamboats were never molested 
by the Indians. They seemed in awe of the puffing, snort- 
ing craft that threw showers of sparks from the smoke- 
stacks. Not infrequently, a steamer had to tie up for a 
few days at a point where fuel conveniently could be cut 
from the cottonwood or mesquite thickets. 

In June, the river is at flood, with danger always 
present in floating trees and driftwood, muddy torrents 
coming from the melting snows of the Rocky Mountains. 
In the autumn the river falls, until in places there are mere 
trickles around the muddy banks. Navigation, perforce, 
had to be suspended. These were the conditions under which 
it was proposed to make of the Colorado the great trade 
artery of the inter-mountain region. 

The Colorado now absolutely has lost all possibilities 
for commerce. Pioneer conditions are about the same as 
far southward as the Laguna dam. This structure, built to 

112 



divert water for the Yuma and Imperial valleys, absolutely 
bars the river channel for navigation. Above it and below 
it now are only ferries and a few power boats. The great 
Imperial canal system, at a point below Yuma, for much of 
the year drains the river flow. Where good-sized steamers 
once plied from tidewater, at the head of the Gulf of 
California, now, for months at a time, is only a dry sand 
wash. To this extent the advance of civilization has 
obliterated a river that ranks, in geography at least, among 
the greatest streams of the United States. s 

Establishing a River Port 

Callville, established on the Colorado by Anson Call in 
December, 1864, for a while was the southernmost outpost 
of Mormon settlement. Call himself was a pioneer of most 
vigorous sort. November 24, 1851, he was one of the founders 
of Fillmore, Millard County, 150 miles south of Salt Lake, 
a settlement for a while the capital of the Territory of 
Utah, created during the administration of President 
Millard Fillmore in 1850. In the following year he built 
Call's Fort in Box Elder County, in the extreme northern 
part of Utah. 

In a compilation made by Andrew Jenson is found defi- 
nite statement that the settlement made by Anson Call on 
the Colorado was "as agent for the Trustee in Trust (the 
President) of the Church in December, 1864, according to 
a plan which was conceived of at that time to bring the 
Church immigration from Europe to Utah via Panama, 
the Gulf of California and up the river to this landing." 
In conjunction with this, a number of leading merchants 
of Salt Lake City combined to build a warehouse on the 
Colorado, with a view to bringing goods in by the river 
route. This company also constituted Anson Call its agent. 
November 1, Call was directed to take a suitable company, 
locate a road to the Colorado, explore the river, find a 
suitable place for a warehouse, build it and form a settle- 
ment at or near the landing. All these things he accom- 

113 



plished. At St. George he employed Jacob Hamblin and 
son, Angus M. Cannon and Dr. Jas. M. Whitmore. 

The journal of travel tells of leaving the mouth of the 
Muddy, continuing down the Virgin twelve miles, thence 
up what was named Echo Wash, twelve miles, and thence 
twenty miles, generally southwestward, to the Colorado, a 
mile below the narrows, above the mouth of Black Canyon, 
where, on December 2, was found a black rocky point, 
considered a suitable spot for the erection of a ware- 
house, above high-water mark. This later was named 
Callville. 

With the exception of a small bottom around the ware- 
house site, the country was considered most barren and 
uninviting. Two and a half miles down the river was the 
mouth of Las Vegas Wash, up which Call and party traveled 
to old Fort Vegas, where a half-dozen men were found 
established. In the company's journeyings, El Dorado 
Canyon was found occupied by miners and there were 
some adventurers on Cottonwood Island, a tract of bottom 
land nearby. The expedition was ferried across the Colo- 
rado to Hardy's Landing, 337 miles above Yuma. Hardy 
had a rather extensive establishment, with a store, ware- 
house, hotel, blacksmith shop, carpenter shop and several 
dwelling houses. Possibly notable was the launching at 
that time of the barge "Arizona," fifty feet long and ten 
feet wide, sharp at both ends and flat-bottomed. 

By river there was a visit to Fort Mohave. This, 
garrisoned by forty soldiers of the California Column, was 
of log and willow houses, the latter wattled and daubed 
with mud. There was reference by Call to the Colorado 
River mesquito, described as "very large." 

Returning to Call's Landing, there were measured off 
forty lots, each 100 feet square, and a start was made by 
leaving Thomas Davids and Lyman Hamblin, on Decem- 
ber 18, to dig the foundation of the warehouse. 

This expedition made a preliminary survey of the Mud- 

114 



dy and declared settlement upon the stream entirely 
feasible. 

Wm. H. Hardy of Hardyville, or Hardy's Landing, was 
not at home when Anson Call visited in December, but re- 
turned soon thereafter and, January 2, 1865, started north- 
ward with his new barge, propelled by poles and oars and 
a sail. A distance of 150 miles by river was made in twelve 
days. Though later some jealousy was expressed over the 
activities at Callville, Hardy proffered all possible assis- 
tance and expressed belief that from July to November 
steamers could ply from the mouth of the Colorado to 
Call's Landing. The warehouse was built, but appears to 
have been little used. Capt. Geo. A. Johnston had sub- 
mitted the Church authorities formal proposals to ship 
direct from New York to the mouth of the river, in barques 
of about 600 tons burden, preferably arriving at the river 
mouth in the fall. The cost of freight from New York to 
the river mouth was set at $16 a ton, and the cost to El 
Dorado Canyon at $65, but, figuring currency at 50 cents, 
the freight was estimated to cost $7.16 per 100 pounds in 
currency. 

In March, 1865, Capt. Thos. E. Trueworthy, told of 
opposition at Hardy's Landing to the establishment of 
Callville. He had started for Call's Landing with 100 tons 
of freight, including 35,000 feet of lumber, to find that Call 
had returned to Utah. Trueworthy left his boat and cargo 
below Callville and went on to Salt Lake. He stated the 
trip from the mouth to Call's Landing would take a boat a 
month, there being difficulty in passing rapids and in 
finding wood for fuel. 

Historian B. H. Roberts states: 

There was shipment of some goods from that point, though at 
first there were some disappointments and dissatisfaction among the 
Salt Lake merchants who patronized the route. Two steamboats, 
the Esmeralda and Nina Tilden made the trip somewhat regularly 
from the mouth of the Colorado to Call's Landing, connecting with 
steamships plying between the mouth of the Colorado and San Fran- 

115 



cisco. The owners of the river boats carried a standing advertise- 
ment in the Salt Lake Telegraph, thus seeking trade, up to December 
1, 1866. Doubtless the certainty of the early completion of the 
transcontinental railroad from the Missouri River to the Pacific Ocean 
stopped the development of this southwest route for immigration 
and freight, via Utah's southern settlements and the Colorado River. 

The port of Callville had only a short life. In June, 
1869, the Deseret News printed an article that Callville 
then had been abandoned. This was in connection with the 
escape of three horsethieves from St. George. These men 
wrenched four large doors from the Callville warehouse 
for the construction of a raft, upon which they committed 
themselves to the river at flood time, leaving horses and 
impedimenta behind. Whether they escaped has not been 
chronicled. 

As late as 1892, the walls of the old storehouse still were 
standing, the only remaining evidences of a scheme of broad 
ambition designed to furnish a new supply route for a 
region comprising at least one-fourth of the national 
expanse. 



116 



ST5' C 





BAPTISM OF SEVERAL HUNDRED SHIVWITS INDIANS BY 
DAVID H, CANNON AT ST. GEORGE 



Chapter Eleven 



First Agriculture in Northern Arizona 

There can be no doubt that the first agricultural settle- 
ment in northern Arizona was by a Mormon party, led 
by Henry W. Miller, which made location at Beaver Dams, 
on the north bank of the Virgin River on the earlier Mormon 
road to California. On a tract of land lying six miles below 
the point where the river emerges from a box canyon, land 
was cleared in the fall of 1864, crops were put in "and then 
the enterprise was dedicated to the Lord," according to 
a report by the leader at Salt Lake. An item in the Deseret 
News tells that Miller was "called" in the fall of 1863 to 
go to the Virgin. 

Early in 1865, another report told, "affairs in the set- 
tlement are progressing very satisfactorily. A large number 
of fruit trees and grapevines have been set out. Corn, 
wheat and other vegetation are growing thriftily and the 
settlers are very industriously prosecuting their several 
useful vocations, with good prospects of success." 

There was notation of some trouble because beavers 
were numerous and persisted in damming irrigation ditches. 
In 1867 a river flood destroyed much of the results of the 
colonists' labors and there was abandonment of the loca- 
tion. Between 1875 and 1878 settlers began to come again 
and a thriving community now is in existence at that point, 
known as Littlefield. It is to benefit in large degree by 
plans approved by the Arizona Water Commissioner, for 
damming of the canyon for storage of water to irrigate land 
of the Virgin Valley toward the southwest. Littlefield is 

117 



the extreme northwestern settlement of the present Ari- 
zona, five miles south of the Utah line and three miles east 
of the Nevada line. 

In the same fall conference of 1864 that sent Anson 
Call on his pioneering expedition, there was designation 
of a large number (183, according to Christopher Layton) 
of missionaries, to proceed, with their families, to the 
Muddy and lower Virgin, thereon to establish colonies that 
might serve as stations in the great movement toward the 
Pacific. Undoubtedly, full information was at hand con- 
cerning the country and its possibilities, for the colonists 
began to arrive January 8, 1865, before there could have 
been formulation of Call's report. Thos. S. Smith was in 
charge of the migration, and after him was named St. 
Thomas, one of the settlements. May 28, Andrew S. Gib- 
bons settled at St. Thomas, sent as Indian interpreter. 
Joseph Warren Foote led in a new settlement at St. Joseph. 

Villages of Pioneer Days 

In what was known as the Muddy section, comprising 
the valleys of the lower Virgin River and its main lower 
tributary, the Muddy, were seven settlements of Mormon 
origin, during the time when the locality was included in 
the area of Arizona. These settlements were Beaver Dams 
on the Virgin, St. Thomas, on the Muddy, about two and 
a half miles from its junction with the Virgin, Overton, on 
the same side of the Muddy Valley, about eight miles north- 
west of St. Thomas, St. Joseph, which lay on the opposite 
side of the stream, five miles to the northward, West Point 
(now Logan), on the west bank, possibly fifteen miles west 
of St. Joseph, and Mill Point and Simonsville between St. 
Joseph and Overton. To these was addition of the port of 
Callville. Nearly westward from the last-named point was 
Las Vegas Springs, distant about twenty miles, a camping 
point on the road between San Bernardino and Salt Lake, 
and permanent residence of missionaries. In later days 
were established Junction City, otherwise Rioville, at the 
mouth of the Virgin, Bunkerville on the east bank of the 

118 



Virgin, three miles west of the later Arizona line, and 
Mesquite, which lay east across the river. 

The valley of the Virgin offered very limited oppor- 
tunities for settlement, as the stream, an alkaline one, 
usually ran between deep cliffs. The Muddy, however, 
despite its name, was a clear stream of slight fall, with a 
lower valley two miles wide, continuing, upstream, north- 
westerly for eighteen miles. A number of swamps had to 
be drained by the first residents. These people constructed 
a canal, nine miles long, on the southwest side and were 
preparing to dig a similar canal on the opposite side when 
there was abandonment. 

St. Thomas has been described as a beautiful village, 
its streets outlined by rows of tall cottonwoods that still 
survive. There were 85 city lots of one acre each, about the 
same number of vineyard lots, two and a half acres each, 
and of farm lots of five acres. 

St. Joseph mainly comprised a fort on a high bluff, from 
which the town had been laid out on a level bench west and 
northward. It included a flour mill, owned by James Leit- 
head. In August, 1868, the fort was almost destroyed by 
fire, which burned up nineteen rooms and most of their 
contents, the meetinghouse and a cotton gin also being 
included in the destruction. There was a stiff gale and most 
of the men were absent. 

Every settlement along the Virgin and Muddy was 
organized into a communal system, the United Order. Of 
this there will be found more detail in Chapter Twelve of 
this work. 

At St. Joseph, June 10, 1869, was organized a coopera- 
tive mercantile institution for the Muddy settlement, with 
Joseph W. Young at its head, R. J. Cutler as secretary and 
James Leithead as business agent. 

There were the usual casualties of the desert country. 
In June, James Davidson, wife and son died of thirst on the 
road from the Muddy settlements to St. George, their 

119 



journey delayed on the desert by the breaking of a wagon 
wheel. 

On a visit made by Erastus Snow and company in the 
summer of 1869, the Muddy settlements subscribed heavily 
toward the purchase of stock in a cotton factory at St. 
George, and toward extension of the Deseret telegraph line. 
In the record of this company's journey it is told that the 
Virgin River was crossed 37 times before arrival at St. 
Thomas. 

The condition of the brethren late in 1870 was set forth 
by James Leithead as something like destitution. He wrote 
that, "many are nearly naked for want of clothing. We can 
sell nothing we have for money, and the cotton, what 
little there is, appears to be of little help in that direction. 
There are many articles we are more in need of than the 
cloth, such as boots and shoes and tools of various kinds 
to work with." 

Brigham Young Makes Inspection 

President Brigham Young was a visitor to the Muddy 
settlements in March of 1870. Ammon M. Tenney states 
that the President was disappointed, for he found con- 
ditions unfavorable for agriculture or commercial develop- 
ment. The journey southward was by way of St. George, 
Utah, a point frequently visited by the Presidency. The 
return journey was northward, by the desert route. In the 
party were John Taylor, later President of the Church, 
Erastus Snow, Geo. A. Smith, Brigham Young, Jr., Andrew 
S. Gibbons and other notables. In the fall (September 10), 
was authorized the founding of Kanab. From St. George 
the President followed the rough road through Arizona to 
the Paria, personally visiting and selecting the site of 
Kanab. Very opportunely, from D. K. Udall, lately was 
received a photograph of the Young party (herewith re- 
produced), taken March 17 on a mesa overlooking the 
Colorado at the mouth of the Virgin. Here may be noted 
that every president of the Mormon Church, with the 

120 



exception of Joseph Smith, the founder, and Lorenzo 
Snow has set foot on Arizona soil. 

Nevada Assumes Jurisdiction 

The beginning of the end of the early Muddy settle- 
ments came in a letter from the Church Presidency, dated 
December 14, 1870, addressed to James Leithead, in charge. 
It referred to the Nevada survey, placing the settlements 
within the jurisdiction of that State, the onerous taxes, 
license and stamp duties imposed, the isolation from the 
market, the high rate at which property is assessed in 
Nevada, the unscrupulous character of many officials, all 
as combining to render conditions upon the Muddy matters 
of grave consideration, even though the country occupied 
might be desirable. The settlers, it was said, had done a 
noble work, making and sustaining their outposts of Zion 
against many difficulties, amid exposure and toil. It was 
advised that the settlers petition the Nevada Legislature 
for an abatement of back taxes and for a new county, but, 
"if the majority of the Saints in council determine that it 
is better to leave the State, whose burdens and laws are 
so oppressive, let it be so done." There was suggestion 
that if the authorities of Lincoln County, Nevada, chose 
to enforce tax collections, it might be well to forestall the 
seizure of property, to remove it out of the jurisdiction of 
the State. 

The Nevada Point Abandoned 

December 20, 1870, the people of the Muddy met with 
John W. Young of Salt Lake and resolved to abandon the 
location and to look for new homes. The only opposing 
votes were those of Daniel Bonelli and wife. Bonelli later 
was a ferryman on the Colorado and his son now is a 
prominent resident of Mohave County. Among those who 
voted to move were a number who later were residents of 
the Little Colorado settlements of Arizona. 

In accordance with the suggestion from Salt Lake, the 

121 



Nevada Legislature was petitioned for relief. It was told 
that seven years before had been established St. Joseph and 
St. Thomas. Thereafter Congress had taken one degree of 
longitude from Utah and Arizona and attached this land 
to Nevada. Taxes had been paid in Utah and Arizona. For 
two years the authorities of Lincoln County, Nevada, had 
attempted to assess the back taxes. To the Nevada author- 
ities was presented statement of a number of facts, that 
$100,000 had been expended on water projects, that the 
settlers had been compelled to feed the Indian population, 
outnumbering their own, and that they had been so remote 
from markets that produce could not be converted into 
cash. It was asked that a new county, that of Las Vegas, 
be organized, taking in the southern point of Nevada. 
Attached to the petition were 111 names of citizens of St. 
Joseph, Overton and St. Thomas. 

A similar petition was sent to Congress. There was 
detail how lumber had to be hauled 150 miles at a cost 
of $200 per 1000 feet. There had been constructed 150 
dwellings. Orchards and vineyards had been planted and 
500 acres of cotton fields had been cleared. In all 3000 acres 
were cultivated. Nevada had imposed a tax of 3 per cent 
upon all taxable property and $4 poll tax per individual, 
all payable in gold, something impossible. It therefore was 
asked that Congress cede back to Utah and Arizona both 
portions of country detached from them and attached to 
Nevada. 

At that time, the State gave the Muddy- Virgin settle- 
ment a population of 600. St. Joseph had 193, St. Thomas 
about 150, West Point 138 and Overton 119. In other 
settlements around, namely Spring Valley, Eagle Valley, 
Rye Valley, Rose Valley, Panaca and Clover, were 658, 
possibly two score of them not being of the Church. Thus 
was shown a gross population of 1250. 

Most of the settlers on the Muddy left early in 1871, 
the exodus starting February 1. On returning to Utah, very 

122 



largely to Long Valley, they left behind their homes, 
irrigating canals, orchards and farms. The crops, including 
8000 bushels of wheat, were left to be harvested by an 
individual who failed to comply with his part of the con- 
tract and who later tore down most of the remaining houses. 

Political Organization Within Arizona 

Including practically all the Mormons then resident 
within the new Territory of Arizona, the first Arizona 
county to be created by additional legislative enactment, 
following the Howell Code, was that of Pah-ute, in De- 
cember, 1865, by the first act approved in the Second 
Arizona Territorial Legislative Assembly. The boundaries 
of the county were described as: Commencing at a point 
on the Colorado River known as Roaring Rapids; thence 
due east to the line of 113 deg. 20 min. west longitude; 
thence north along said line of longitude, to its point of 
intersection with the 37th parallel of north latitude ; thence 
west, along said parallel of latitude, to a point where the 
boundary line between the State of California and the 
Territory of Arizona strikes said 37th parallel of latitude; 
thence southeasterly along said boundary line, to a point 
due west from said Roaring Rapids; thence due east to said 
Roaring Rapids and point of beginning. Callville was 
created the seat of justice and the governor was authorized 
to appoint the necessary county officers. 

The new subdivision was taken entirely from Mohave 
County, which retained the southernmost part of the 
Nevada point. It may be noted that its boundaries were 
entirely arbitrary and not natural and the greater part of 
the new county's area lay in what now is Nevada. October 
1, 1867, the county seat was moved to St. Thomas. No- 
vember 5, 1866, a protest was sent in an Arizona memorial 
to Congress against the setting off to the State of Nevada 
of that part of the Territory west of the Colorado. The 
grant of this tract to Nevada under the terms of a con- 
gressional act approved May 5, 1866, had been conditioned 

123 



on similar acceptance by the Legislature of Nevada. This 
was done January 18, 1867. 

Without effect, the Arizona Legislature twice petitioned 
Congress to rescind its action, alleging, "it is the unanimous 
wish of the inhabitants of Pah-ute and Mohave Counties 
and indeed of all the constituents of your memorialists that 
the territory in question should remain with Arizona; for 
the convenient transaction of official and other business, 
and on every account they greatly desire it." But Congress 
proved obdurate and Nevada refused to give up the strip 
and the County of Pah-ute, deprived of most of her area, 
finally was wiped out by the Arizona Legislature in 1871. 
At one time there was claim that St. George and a very 
wide strip of southern Utah really belonged to Arizona. 

Pah-ute's Political Vicissitudes 

In the Second Legislature, at Prescott, in 1865, at the 
time of the creation of Pah-ute County, northwest Arizona, 
or Mohave County, was represented in the Council by W. 
H. Hardy of Hardyville and in the House by Octavius D. 
Gass of Callville. In the Third Legislature, which met at 
Prescott, October 3, 1866, Pah-ute was represented in the 
Council by Gass, who was honored by election as presi- 
dent of the body, in which he also served as translator and 
interpreter. He was described as a very able man, though 
rough of speech. He explored many miles of the lower 
Grand Canyon. He was not a Mormon, but evidently was 
held in high esteem by his constituents, who elected him to 
office in Arizona as long as they had part in its politics. 
Royal J. Cutler of Mill Point represented the county in 
the House of Representatives. 

In the Fourth Legislature, which met at Prescott, 
September 4, 1867, Gass, who had moved to Las Vegas, 
was returned to the Council where again he was chosen 
president, and Cutler, who had moved to St. Joseph, again 
was in the House. On the record of the Legislature's pro- 
ceedings, Gass is styled "ranchero ' ' and Cutler "farmer." 

124 



Though most of the area of Pah-ute County already 
had been wiped out by congressional enactment and given 
to Nevada, Gass again was in the Legislature in 1868, in 
the fifth session, which met in Tucson, December 10. 
The House member was Andrew S. Gibbons of St. Thomas, 
a senior member of a family that since has had much to 
do with the development of northeastern Arizona. A very 
interesting feature in connection with this final service in 
the Legislature, was the fact that Gass and Gibbons 
floated down the Colorado River to Yuma and thence 
took conveyance to Tucson. They were in a fourteen-foot 
boat that had been built at St. Thomas by James Leithead. 
Gibbons' son, William H. (now resident at St. Johns), 
hauled the craft to Callville, twenty miles, and there sped 
the legislators. 

At the outset, there was necessity for the voyageurs to 
pass through the rapids of Black Canyon, an exciting 
experience, not unmixed with danger. Gibbons knew some- 
thing of boating and so was at the oars. Gass, seated astern, 
firmly grabbed the gunwales, shut his eyes and trusted 
himself in the rapids to providence and his stout companion, 
with at least one fervent admonition, "For God's sake, 
Andy, keep her pointed down stream." The passage was 
made in safety, though both men were soaked by the dash- 
ing spray. 

The start was made November 1. By day all possible 
progress was made, the boat being kept in midstream and 
away from bushes, for fear of ambush by Indians. At night 
a place for camp would be selected in a secluded spot and 
a fire would be lighted only when safety seemed assured. 

There was some delay in securing transportation east- 
ward from Fort Yuma. Indians had been active along the 
stage route and had just waylaid a coach and killed its 
driver. Thus it came that the members from Pah-ute were 
six days late in their taking seats in the territorial assembly. 

At the close of the legislative session, Gibbons journeyed 

125 



home on horseback, for much of the way through districts 
infested by wild Indians of several tribes, a trip of at least 
500 miles. Gass went to California before returning home. 
Such a return journey is not mentioned, however, in an 
interesting record, furnished the Author by A. V., Richard 
and Wm. H. Gibbons, sons of the pioneer. 

Royal J. Cutler, on April 3, 1869, came again into 
official notice as clerk of the Probate and County Court of 
Rio Virgen County, which had been created out of the west- 
ern part of Washington County, Utah, by the Utah 
Legislature. The first session of the court was at St. Joseph, 
with Joseph W. Young as magistrate. This county organi- 
zation is not understood, even under the hypothesis that 
Utah claimed a sixty-mile strip of Nevada, for St. Joseph, 
on the Muddy, lies a considerable distance south of the 
extension of the southern Utah line, the 37th parallel. 

A tax was levied of one-half of 1 per cent, this later 
increased to three-quarters of 1 per cent. Direct taxes in 
1869 had been received of $156.19, and the amount trans- 
ferred from Pah-ute County was $24.10, a total of $180.29, 
which hardly could be considered an onerous levy or fat 
treasury for the support of a political subdivision. The 
treasurer had on hand $28.55 in cash, $20 in flour and $12.45 
in wheat. 

Later Settlement in "The Point" 

Bunkerville, settled January 6, 1877, was named for 
Edward Bunker, a member of the Mormon Battalion. 
Latterly to a degree it has become connected with Arizona 
through the fact that lands in its vicinity are to be irrigated 
from a reservoir to be established upon the Virgin within 
Arizona. January 24, 1877, there were visitors of notable 
sort, Capt. Daniel W. Jones and company, on their way 
to a location in the Salt River Valley of Arizona. Bunker- 
ville had elaborate organization under the United Order, 
and it is agreed that the large amount of irrigation work 
accomplished hardly could have been done under any other 

126 



plan. The organization lasted until the summer of 1879, 
it being found that some of the members, "through their 
economy and industry were gathering and, laying up in 
abundance, while others, through carelessness and bad 
management, were wasting the funds of the company, each 
year being increasing in debt." This was very unsatis- 
factory to those whose ambition was to assure at least the 
necessaries of life. 

The Mesquite settlement, across the Virgin from 
Bunkerville, was established in 1880, but was abandoned 
a few years later, again to be settled in 1895, from Utah. 

There was a returning of the Saints to the Muddy Valley 
early in 1881, the Patterson ranch, which included the 
town of Overton, being purchased by Mrs. Elizabeth Whit- 
more of St. George. Among the names of the settlers was 
at least one of Arizona association, that of Jesse W. Crosby. 
In 1892, when visited by Andrew Jenson, in the locality 
of the main four settlements of the older occupation 
were only a score of families. 

Salt Mountains of the Virgin 

Arizona lost one asset of large value in the transfer of 
the Virgin River section to Nevada. Therein is an enormous 
salt deposit, locally called the Salt Mountain, though three 
such deposits are along the Virgin between St. Thomas and 
the Colorado River. One of them is described as cropping 
out along the foot of a high bluff of brown clay, exposed 
for 80 feet in height from the base of the hill, though the 
depth below its surface is unknown. The salt is obtained 
by blasting, as it is too hard to dig with picks. It is of 
excellent quality and of remarkable purity. In early days, 
from this deposit was obtained the salt needed in southern 
Nevada, southwestern Utah and much of Arizona, steamers 
carrying it down the Colorado southward. W. H. Johnson 
was in early charge of the salt mines. is widow now is 
resident in Mesa. 



127 



Peaceful Frontier Communities 

Writing about Overton, an early historian gives details 
of the happiness that comes to an individual who relies 
wholly upon the produce of his land and who lives apart 
from what is called civilization and its evils. He tells of 
the sense of comfort, security and satisfaction felt by the 
brethren who own the land whereon their homes are set 
and are not afraid of a little expense of bone and muscle 
to sustain themselves comfortably. 

They dress as well or better than those in more favored circum- 
stances, set a plentiful table and enjoy such peace and quiet that 
seldom falls to the lot of people in these troublous times. No pro- 
faning is heard; the smoking, chewing and drinking habits are strangers 
to the "hope of Israel" here; no racing of horses at breakneck speed 
through the streets is endured in our peaceful little town; in fact the 
only complaint is, and not without just cause, that it is rather too 
quiet. 

Along this same line, Dellenbaugh wrote of the southern 
Utah settlements: 

As pioneers the Mormons were superior to any class I have ever 
come in contact with, their idea being homemaking and not skimming 
the cream off the country with a six-shooter and a whiskey bottle. 
One of the first things the Mormon always did in establishing a new 
settlement was to plant fruit, shade trees and vines and the like, so 
that in a very few years there was a condition of comfort only attained 
by a non-Mormon settlement after the lapse of a quarter of a century. 
Dancing is a regular amusement among the Mormons and is en- 
couraged by the authorities as a harmless and beneficial recreation. 
The dances were always opened by prayer. 

In the journal of Major J. W. Powell, under date of 
August 30, 1869, there is special mention of the hospitable 
character of the Mormons of the Virgin River section. 
They had been advised by Brigham Young to look out for 
the Powell expedition and Asa (Joseph Asay) and his sons 
continued to watch the river, though a false report had 
come that the Powell expedition was lost. They were 
looking for wreckage that might give some indication of 
the fate of the explorers when Powell's boats appeared. 

128 



Powell was very appreciative of Asay's kindness and wrote 
enthusiastically of the coming, next day from St. Thomas, 
of James Leithead, with a wagonload of supplies that 
included melons. 



129 



Chapter Twelve 



Wp Pmteh (§xbtx 



Development of a Communal System 

At one stage of Church development there was dis- 
position to favor the establishment in each village of the 
Saints- of communal conditions, wherein work should be 
done according to the ability of the individual- Crops and 
the results of all industry were to be gathered at a common 
center for common benefit. Something of the same sort was 
known among the Shakers and other religious sects in 
eastern states. Thus in Utah was founded the United Order, 
which, however, at no time had any direct connection with 
the central Church organization. 

The best development of the idea was at Brigham City, 
Utah, sixty miles north of Salt Lake City, where the move- 
ment was kept along business lines by none other than 
Lorenzo Snow, later President of the Church of Jesus 
Christ of Latter-day Saints and the officer credited with 
having first put that great organization upon a business 
footing. He established a communal system that proved 
a potent beneficial force both for the individual and the 
community. The start was in 1864, with the establish- 
ment of a mercantile business, from which there were 
successive expansions to include about forty industries, 
such as factories at which were made felt and straw hats, 
clothing, pottery, brooms and brushes, harnesses and sad- 
dles, furniture, vehicles and tinware, while there were three 
sawmills, a large woolen mill and a cotton goods mill, the 
last with large attached cotton acreage, in southern Utah. 
There were 5000 sheep, 1000 head of stock cattle and 500 

130 



cows, supplying a model dairy and the community meat 
market. The settlement was self-clothed and self-fed. 
Education had especial attention and all sorts of enter- 
tainment of meritorious character were fostered. Members 
of the Order labored in their own industries, were paid good 
wages in scrip and participated in the growth of general 
values. In 1875 the value of the products reached $260,000. 

By 1879 there had been departure from the complete 
unity of the United Order plan, though eleven departments 
still remained intact. There had been adverse circum- 
stances, through which in nine months had been lost about 
$53,000. The woolen mill, a model, twice had been 
destroyed by fire. There had been jealousies outside the 
movement, through which a profitable railroad contract 
had been ruined, and federal authorities had taxed the 
sorip issue about $10,000 per annum. The first assess- 
ment was paid, but later was turned back. But, with all 
these reverses piled upon the people, the unity remained 
intact, and today, upon the foundation laid by the United 
Order and its revered local leader, Brigham City is one 
of the most prosperous communities of the intermountain 
region. 

Edward Bellamy, the writer, became so much interested 
in what he had heard of the United Order in Brigham City, 
that he made a special trip to Utah in 1886, to study its 
operation. He spent three days with President Lorenzo 
Snow, listening to his experiences and explanation of the 
movement. As a result of this lengthy interview, Mr. 
Bellamy, the following year, wrote his book, "Looking 
Backward." 

Another example of the operation of the United Order 
was in Kane County, Utah, about eighteen miles north of 
the Arizona line. In March, 1871, there was re-settlement 
of Long Valley, where two towns, Berryville and Winsor, 
had been deserted because of Indian encroachments. The 
new settlers mainly came from the breaking up of the 

131 



Muddy Mission settlements in Nevada, Long Valley 
having been suggested by President Brigham Young as a 
possible location. About 200 of the former Muddy resi- 
dents entered the valley in March, 1871, founding Glendale 
and Mount Carmel. The residents of the latter, in March, 
1874, organized into the United Order. The following year, 
a number who wished to practice the Order in its fullness, 
founded a new settlement, midway between Glendale and 
Mount Carmel, and named it Orderville. This settlement 
still is in existence, though the communistic plan had to be 
broken up about 1883, there having arisen a spirit of compe- 
tition and of individual ambition. The plan of operation 
was comprehensive of many features, yet simple. The 
community ate in a common dining hall, with kitchen and 
bakery attached. Dwelling houses were close together and 
built in the form of a square. There were work shops, 
offices, schoolhouse, etc., and manufactories of lumber 
and woolen products. 

Not a General Church Movement 

There had been an idea among the adherents to the 
Order that they were fulfilling a Church commandment. 
They were disabused by Apostle Erastus Snow, who 
suggested that each occupation be taken up by small 
companies, each to run a different department. There was 
conference with the First Presidency, but the Church 
declined responsibility sought to be thrown upon it. So 
there were many defections, though for years thereafter 
there was incorporation, to hold the mills and machinery, 
lands and livestock. 

The United Order by no means was general. It was 
limited to certain localities and certain settlements, each of 
which tried to work out its own problems in its own way, 
entirely without connection with any other community of 
the sort. In a few instances the plan proved successful, but 
usually only where there was some directing leader of 
integrity and business acumen, such as at Brigham City. 

132 




FOUNDERS OF THE COLORADO FERRIES 



1 — John L. Blythe 
3 — Daniel Bonelli 



2 — Harrison Pearce 
4 — Anson Call 




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The United Order principle was used, with varying 
degrees of relative success, in a number of northern Arizona 
settlements, especially in the early camps on the lower 
Little Colorado, as noted elsewhere. 

The Jones party, that founded Lehi, was organized for 
traveling and working under the United Order, drawing 
from a common storehouse, but each family, nevertheless, 
looked out for its own interest. The United Order lasted 
until the end of Jones' control of the colony. 

An attempt was made in the early part of 1880 at Mesa, 
to organize, under the laws of Arizona, to carry out the 
principles of the United Order as far as practicable. A 
corporation was formed, "The Mesa Union," by President 
Alex. F. Macdonald, Geo. C. Dana, Timothy Mets, Hyrum 
Smith Phelps and Chas. H. Mallory. About the only thing 
done by this organization was to purchase some land, but 
this land later was taken by members of the Church. 
Mormon Cooperative Stores 

In the economy and frugality that marked, necessarily, 
the early days of the Mormon people, there naturally was 
resort to combination in the purchases of supplies and in the 
marketing of products. When the United Order declined, 
there was resort to another economic pioneer enterprise, the 
cooperative store, established in many of the new com- 
munities. Each store, to an extent, was under local Church 
supervision and, while open to the trade of all, still was 
established primarily for the benefit of the brethren. Under 
early-day conditions, the idea undoubtedly was a good one. 
Mercantile profits were left within the community, divided 
among many, while the "Co-op" also served as a means 
through which the community produce could be handled 
to best advantage. 

In the north, June 27, 1881, at Snowflake, with Jesse 
N. Smith at its head, was organized a company that started 
a cooperative store at Holbrook, taking over, largely for 
debt, a store that had been operated by John W. Young 

133 



at old Holbrook. In January, 1882, this establishment was 
left high and dry by the moving of Holbrook station a mile 
and a half west to Berardo's, or Horsehead Crossing. 
There was difficulty in getting a location at the new site, 
so this store, in February, 1882, was moved to Woodruff. 

In January, 1881, at Snowflake was started a "Co-op" 
that merged into the Arizona Cooperative Mercantile 
Institution. The following month, under David K. Udall, 
a similar institution was opened at St. Johns, where there 
was attached a flouring mill. Both at St. Johns and Snow- 
flake were cooperative livestock herds. 

One of the most extensive enterprises of this sort was 
started in Mesa in September, 1884, with Chas. I. Robson, 
George Passey and Oscar M. Stewart at its head. The first 
stock was valued at $45, yet in 1894, the Zenos Cooperative 
Mercantile & Manufacturing Institution had a paid-up 
capital stock of over $25,000 and a two-story building, and 
had paid dividends ranging from 10 to 50 per cent annually. 

Almost every phase of communal effort now appears to 
have been abandoned in Arizona Mormon business life, 
probably because found unnecessary in the latter-day 
development in which the membership of the Church has 
had so large a share. 

The Author feels there should be addition of a state- 
ment that the Church is far from acceptance of the Euro- 
pean idea of communism, for one of its tenets is, "Thou 
shalt not be idle, for he that is idle shall not eat of the 
bread nor wear the garments of the laborer." Nothing of 
political socialism ever was known in the United Order. 



134 



Chapter Thirteen 



Failure of the First Expeditions 

The first attempt from the north of the Mormon Church 
to colonize within the present limits of Arizona failed. It 
was by means of an expedition placed in charge of Horton 
D. Haight. A number of the colonists met March 8, 1873, 
in the old tabernacle in Salt Lake City, and there were 
instructed by President Brigham Young. At Winsor Castle 
they were warned to be friendly to but not too trustful of 
the Indians and not to sell them ammunition, "for they 
are warring against our government." The route was by 
way of Lee's Ferry, the crossing completed May 11. On 
the 22d was reached the Little Colorado, the Rio de Lino 
(Flax River) of the Spaniards. From the ferry to the 
river had been broken a new road, over a tolerably good 
route. There was no green grass, and water was infre- 
quent, even along the Little Colorado, it being found 
necessary to dig wells in the dry channel. Twenty-four 
miles below Black Falls there was encampment, the road 
blocked by sand drifts. 

On June 1 there returned to the expedition in camp 
an exploring party, under Haight, that had been absent 
eight days and that had traveled 136 miles up the river. 
There was report of the trip that the country was barren, 
with narrow river bottoms, with alkaline soil, water bad 
and failing, with no spot found suitable in which to settle. 
There also appeared to be fear of the Apache. So the ex- 
pedition painfully retraced its steps to Navajo Springs, 
sending ahead a dispatch to President Young, giving a full 

135 



report of conditions and making suggestion that the settle- 
ment plan had better be abandoned. At Moen Copie on 
the return was met a party of 29 missionaries, under Henry- 
Day. 

An interesting journal of the trip was written by Henry 
Holmes of the vanguard. He was especially impressed 
with the aridity of the country. He thought it "barren 
and forbidding, although doubtless the Lord had a purpose 
in view when He made it so. Few of the creeks ran half a 
mile from their heads. The country is rent with deep 
chasms, made still deeper by vast torrents that pour down 
them during times of heavy rains." There were found 
petrified trees. One of them was 210 feet long and another 
was over five feet across the butt, this in a land where not 
a tree or bush was found growing. Holmes fervently ob- 
served, "However, I do not know whether it makes any 
difference whether the country is barren or fruitful, if the 
Lord has a work to do in it," in this especially referring to 
the Indians, among whom there could be missionary effort. 
Jacob Miller acted as secretary of the expedition. 

On the back track, the company all had ferried to the 
north bank of the river by July 7, although there had to be 
improvised navigation of the Colorado, for the ferry-boat 
had disappeared in the spring flood and all that remained 
was a little skiff, behind which the wagon bodies were 
floated over. In all, were ferried 54 wagons, 112 animals, 
109 men, 6 women and a child. 

This first company had been called from different parts 
of Utah and was not at all homogeneous, yet traveled in 
peace and union. The members assembled morning and 
evening for prayers, at which the blessings of the Lord were 
asked upon themselves and their teams and upon the 
elements that surrounded them. 

President Young directed the members of the 1873 party 
to remain in Arizona, but the message was not received till 
the river had been passed. The following year he ordered 

136 



another expedition southward. According to a journal of 
Wm H. Solomon, who was clerk of the party, departure 
from Kanab was on February 6, 1874. John L. Blythe 
(who had remained at Moen Copie after the 1873 trip) 
was in charge. With Blythe was his wife. Ira Hatch took 
his family. Fifteen other individuals were included. 
Progress southward was stopped at Moen Copie by reports 
of a Navajo uprising. Most of the party returned to Utah 
after a few weeks, leaving behind Hamblin, Hatch and Ten- 
ney. 
Missionary Scouts in Northeastern Arizona 

When the unsuccessful expedition turned back to Utah 
in the summer of 1873, there remained John L. Blythe of 
Salt Lake and a number of other missionaries. They 
located among the Indians on the Moen Copie, where they 
sowed the ground and planted trees and grapevines, also 
planting at Moabi, about seven miles to the southwest. 
Blythe remained at Moen Copie, alone with his family, 
until 1874, including the time of the Indian trouble more 
particularly referred to in this volume in connection with 
the work of Jacob Hamblin. 

The failure of the Haight expedition in no wise daunted 
the Church authorities in their determination to extend 
southward. In general, reports that came concerning the 
Little Colorado Valley were favorable. Finally, starting 
from Salt Lake October 30, 1875, was sent a scouting ex- 
pedition, headed by Jas. S. Brown, who had a dozen 
companions when he crossed into Arizona. This party made 
headquarters at Moen Copie, where a stone house was built 
for winter quarters. Brown and two others then traveled 
up the Little Colorado for a considerable distance, not well 
denned in his narrative, finding a fine, open country, with 
water plentiful and with grass abundant, with good farming 
land and timber available. The trio followed the Beale 
trail westward to a point southwest of the San Francisco 
Mountains, where there was crossing back to the Little 

137 



Colorado. Christmas Day, before Moen Copie was reached, 
the scouts were placed in serious danger by a terrific snow- 
storm. Brown returned to Salt Lake with his report, 
January 14, 1876, after traveling 1300 miles, mainly on 
horseback. 

Here might be stated that Brown was none other than a 
Mormon Battalion member who had participated in the 
discovery of gold at Sutter's Fort in California. At some 
time prior to coming to Arizona he had lost a leg, shot off 
by hunters who had mistaken him for a bear. He should 
not be confounded with Capt. James Brown of the Bat- 
talion. 

Foundation of Four Settlements 

The first Presidency apparently had anticipated Brown's 
favorable report, for quick action was had immediately 
thereafter. Four companies, each of fifty men and their 
families, were organized, under Lot Smith, Jesse O. Bal- 
lenger, George Lake and Wm. C. Allen. The 200 mis- 
sionaries were "called" from many parts of Utah, but 
mainly from the north and around Salt Lake. There was no 
formal gathering of the companies. Each member went 
southward as he could, to report to his leader on the Little 
Colorado. The assembling point was Kanab. Thence there 
was assemblage of groups of about ten families each, with- 
out reference to companies. An entertaining detail of this 
journey lately was given the Historian in Phoenix by David 
E. Adams, captain of one of the Tens. 

The leading teams reached Sunset Crossing on the 
Little Colorado March 23, 1876, the migration continuing 
for many weeks thereafter. Allen, Smith and Lake con- 
tinued up the river twenty miles, to a point about five 
miles east of the present site of St. Joseph. 

From exact data furnished by R. E. Porter of St. 
Joseph is learned that Allen's company settled at the point 
where this march ended, establishing Allen's Camp. There 
was later change to a point one mile east of the present 

138 




NORTHEASTERN ARIZONA— The Little Colorado Country 



139 



location, a site maintained till 1877. The name was changed 
January 21, 1878, to St. Joseph, after Prophet Joseph Smith. 

Lot Smith's company retraced, to establish Sunset, 
three miles north of Sunset Crossing, on the north side of 
the river. 

Lake's company established itself across the river, three 
miles south and west of the present site of St. Joseph. The 
settlement was named Obed. 

Ballenger's company located four miles southwest of 
Sunset Crossing, on the south side of the river, near the 
site of the present Winslow. 

Genesis of St. Joseph 

There was quick work in the way of settlement at 
Allen's Camp, where the first plowing was on March 25, 
1876, by John Bushman and Nathan Cheney. Jacob Morris 
immediately commenced the construction of a house. Two 
days later an irrigation ditch was surveyed and on the fol- 
lowing day John Bushman got out the first logs for a 
diversion dam. April 3, Bushman sowed the first wheat. 
A temporary structure was built for protection and for 
storage. May 26 the name of Allen City was given the 
settlement, in preference to a second suggestion, Ramah 
City. Early in August, 23 men, including Allen, started 
back to Utah, from which a few returned with their families. 

On Allen's return southward with a number of families, 
the old Spanish Trail was used, in its eastern section, via 
the San Juan region, with some idea that it might be made 
the main thoroughfare, for thus would be obviated the 
ferrying of the Colorado River, either above or below the 
Canyon. But the way into Arizona through northwestern 
New Mexico was too long, and the experiment was not 
considered successful. 

In the fall, the families moved into a stockade fort, 
planned to be 152 feet wide and 300 feet long. Only part of 
this was finished. Probably twenty or more houses were 
built within it. 

140 




CROSSING THE LITTLE COLORADO 




THE OLD FORT AT BRIGHAM CITY 




WOODRUFF DAM, AFTER ONE OF THE FREQUENT 
WASHOUTS 




THE FIRST PERMANENT DAM ON THE LITTLE COLORADO 
AT ST. JOSEPH 



August 23, 1876, a postoffice was established, with John 
McLaws in charge. A weekly mail service operated between 
Santa Fe and Prescott. 

The first child in the settlement was Hannah Maria 
Colson, July 17, 1876. The first death was exactly a year 
later, that of Clara Gray. The first school district was 
established and the first school was taught during the 
winter of 1877-78. Of all the lower Little Colorado settle- 
ments, this is the only one now existent. 

The present St. Joseph lies only a hundred rods from the 
main line of the Santa Fe railroad system, 25 miles east 
of Winslow. The first Allen's Camp, in April, 1876, was 
three miles east of the present site. There was a change to 
the western location in June, at the suggestion of Daniel 
H. Wells, who had followed for an inspection of the new 
settlements. Later there was survey, nearby, of a townsite, 
the same that now is occupied. Among the few remaining 
settlers of the Little Colorado settlements, is Joseph Hill 
Richards, who writes that he was the first justice of the 
peace for Yavapai County in that region and the first 
captain there of territorial militia. He also was prominent 
in the Church organization. 

Struggling with a Treacherous River 

Every settlement along the Little Colorado River has 
known repeated troubles in maintaining its water supply. 
It would be vain recapitulation to tell just how many times 
each of the poor struggling communities had to rally back 
on the sands of the river bed to built up anew the structure 
of gravel and brush that must be depended upon, if bread 
were to be secured from the land. The Little Colorado is 
a treacherous stream at best, with a broad channel that 
wanders at will through the alluvial country that melts 
like sugar or salt at the touch of water. 

There are instances that stand out in this struggle for 
water. The first joint dam of Allen's Camp and Obed cost 
the settlers $5000. It is told that 960 day's work was done 

141 



on the dam and 500 days more work on the Allen ditch. 
This dam went down at the first flood, for it raised the water 
about twelve feet. Then, in the spring of 1877, another 
dam was built, a mile and a half upstream, and this again 
washed away. In 1879 the St. Joseph settlers sought the 
third damsite at LeRoux Wash, about two and a half miles 
west of the present Holbrook. In 1881 they spent much 
money and effort on a plan to make a high dam at the site 
of the first construction, but this again was taken down- 
stream by the river. In 1882, a pile dam was built across 
the river, and it again was spoiled by the floods. This dam 
generally was in use until 1891, but had to be repaired 
almost every year. In the year named, work was started 
upon what was hoped to be a permanent dam, at an esti- 
mated cost of $60,000. In 1894, Andrew Jenson wrote that 
at least $50,000 had been lost by the community upon its 
dams. Noting the fact that only fifteen families consti- 
tuted the population, he called St. Joseph "the leading 
community in pain, determination and unflinching courage 
in dealing with the elements around them." 

St. Joseph, as early as 1894, had completed its eighth 
dam across the river. Jos. W. Smith wrote of the dedication 
of the dam, in March of that year. He remarked especially 
upon the showing of rosy-cheeked, well-clad children, of 
whom the greater part of the assemblage was composed, 
"showing that the people were by no means destitute, even 
if they had been laboring on ditches and dams so much for 
the last eighteen years." 

The main prayer of the exercise was brief, but charac- 
teristic: "O Lord, we pray that this dam may stand, if 
it be Thy will— if not, let Thy will be done." The invo- 
cation was effective. The dam stood, as is illustrated within 
this book. 
Decline and Fall of Sunset 

Sunset, the lowest of the settlements, was near the 
present railroad crossing of the river, below the river 

142 



junction with Clear Creek. There had been a temporary 
location two miles upstream. The main structure was a 
stockade, twelve rods square, mainly of drift cottonwood 
logs. Within were rock-built houses, a community dining 
hall and a well. Combination was made with Ballenger, 
across the stream, in the building of a dam, two and a half 
miles above the settlement. 

Apparently the sandy land and the difficulty of irri- 
gating it drove the settlers away, until, finally, in 1885, 
Lot Smith's family was the only one left upon the ground, 
and it departed in 1888. 

Years later, Andrew Jenson found the rock walls and 
chimneys still standing. "Everything is desert," he wrote, 
"the whole landscape looks dreary and forbidding and the 
lonely graveyard on the hillside only reminds one of the 
population which once was and that is no more." Only 
ruin marks the place where once was headquarters of the 
Little Colorado Stake of Zion. The settlement was badly 
placed, for floods came within a rod of the fort and covered 
the wheat fields. 

Lot Smith wrote in poetic vein, "This is a strange 
country, belonging to a people whose lands the rivers have 
spoiled." Very practically, however, he wrote of good lands 
and slack water supply, "though the river shows it would 
be a mighty rushing torrent when the rains commence in 
summer, with the appearance of being 25 miles broad, and 
the Indians told us that if we are indeed to live where we 
are encamped, we had better fix some scaffolding in the 
trees." 

In August, 1878, a correspondent of the Deseret News 
wrote from Sunset that for a week the rain had been pour- 
ing down almost incessantly, that the whole bottom was 
covered with water, that some of the farms were submerged 
and grain in shocks was flooded, that the grain of Woodruff 
was entirely destroyed, the grist mill of Brigham City 

143 



inundated and the grain stacks there were deep in water, 
with the inhabitants using boats and rafts to get around 
their farms. 

Village Communal Organization 

The settlements all established themselves under the 
United Order. Early in 1876 one of the settlers wrote from 
Allen's Camp, "It is all United Order here and no beating 
around the bush, for it is the intention to go into it to the 
full meaning of the term." This chronicler, John L. Blythe, 
April 11, 1876, again wrote, "The companies are going into 
the United Order to the whole extent, giving in everything 
they possess, their labor, time and talent." In August there 
was a report from the same locality that "the people are 
living in a united system, each laboring for the good of all 
the community and an excellent feeling prevails." 

The communal system was given formal adoption at 
Allen's Camp April 28, 1877, when articles were agreed 
upon for a branch of the United Order. June 5, 1877, with 
Wm. C. Allen presiding, there was an appraisal of prop erty 
and a separation of duties. Henry M. Tanner (who still 
is in St. Joseph), was secretary, John Bushman foreman of 
the farm, James Walker water master and Moses D. 
Steele superintendent of livestock. Niels Nielsen was in 
charge of ox teams and Jos. H. Rogers in charge of horse 
teams, harness and wagons. The Church historian has 
given in detail the manner in which the system worked: 

From the beginning the Saints at Allen's Camp disciplined them- 
selves strictly according to Church rules. Every morning the Saints, 
at the sound of the triangle, assembled in the schoolhouse for prayer, 
on which occasion they would not only pray and sing, but sometimes 
brethren would make brief remarks. The same was resorted to in 
the evening. They did not all eat at the same table (a common 
custom followed in the other camps), but nevertheless great union, 
peace and love prevailed among the people, and none seemed to take 
advantage of his neighbor. Peace, harmony and brotherly love 
characterized all the settlers at Allen's Camp from the very beginning. 

In August, 1878, Samuel G. Ladd wrote from the new 
144 



St. Joseph, that the United Order worked harmoniously and 
prosperously. In that year manufacturing of brooms was 
commenced by John Bushman. Up to 1882 each family 
was drawing from one common storehouse. In 1883 the 
Order was dissolved at St. Joseph and the stewardship plan 
adopted. Each family received its part of the divided land 
and a settlement of what each man originally had put into 
the Order. Proforma organization of the Order was con- 
tinued until January, 1887. 

Hospitality Was of Generous Sort 

From Sunset Crossing Camp, G. C. Wood wrote, in 
Apiil, 1876. "The brethren built a long shanty, with a long 
table in it and all ate their meals together, worked together 
and got along finely." In February, 1878, President Lot 
Smith wrote the Deseret News in a strain that indicated 
doubt concerning the efficiency of the United Order system. 
His letter told: 

This mission has had a strange history so far, most who came 
having got weak in the back or knees and gone home. Some, I be- 
lieve, have felt somewhat exercised about the way we are getting 
along, and the mode in which we are conducting our culinary affairs. 
Now, I have always had a preference for eating with my family and 
have striven to show that I was willing to enlarge as often as circum- 
stances require, and the same feeling seemed to prevail in these settle- 
ments. We have enlarged ourselves to the amount of forty in one day. 
We have noticed that most people who pass the road are willing to 
stop and board with us a week or two, notwithstanding our poor 
provisions and the queer style it was served up. 

In July of the same year, Lorenzo Hatch wrote from 
Woodruff, "At Sunset, Brigham City and Woodruff, the 
settlements eat at one table, hence we have no poor nor 
rich among us. The Obed camp also had gone into the Uni- 
ted Order in the fullest sense in May, 1876." 

Brigham City's Varied Industries 

Ballenger, in September, 1878, was renamed Brigham 
City, in honor of President Brigham Young. Its people 
were found by Erastus Snow in September, 1878, with a 

145 



remarkable organization, operating in part under the United 
Order system. There was a fort 200 feet square, with rocky- 
walls seven feet high. Inside were 36 dwelling houses, each 
15x13 feet. On the north side was the dining hall, 80x20 
feet, with two rows of tables, to seat more than 150 persons. 
Adjoining was a kitchen, 25x20 feet, with an annexed bake- 
house. Twelve other dwelling houses were mentioned, as 
well as a cellar and storehouse. Water was secured within 
the enclosure from two good wells. South of the fort were 
corrals and stockyards. The main industry was the farming 
of 274 acres, more than one-half of it in wheat. A pottery 
was in charge of Brother Behrman, reported to have been 
confident that he could surpass any of the potteries in 
Utah for good ware. Milk was secured from 142 cows. 
One family was assigned to the sawmill in the mountains. 
J. A. Woods taught the first school. Jesse O. Ballenger, the 
first leader, was succeeded in 1878 by George Lake, who 
reported that, "while the people were living together in 
the United Order they generally ate together at the same 
table. The Saints, as a rule, were very earnest in their 
endeavors to carry out the principles of the Order, but 
some became dissatisfied and moved away." Dis- 
couragement became general, and in 1881 all were 
released from the mission. The settlement practically 
was broken up, the people scattering, though without 
dissension. 

Some went to Forest Dale, and later to the Gila River, 
and some left Arizona altogether. There was a surplus from 
the experiment of about $8000, which went to the Church, 
after the people had drawn out their original capital, each 
taking the same number of animals and the same amount 
of property contributed originally. In 1882 only a couple 
of families were left and an added surplus of $2200 was used 
by the Church in settling the Gila country. In 1890 only 
the family of Sidney Wilson remained on the old site of 
Brigham City. The Brigham City water-power grist mill 

146 



built in 1878, a present from the Church, was given to the 
people of Woodruff, but was not used. 

The abandonment of Brigham City should not be 
blamed to the weakness of a communistic system. There had 
been frequent failures of crops and there had come a de- 
termination to find a locality where nature would smile 
more often upon the barley, so scouts were sent to the San 
Juan country in Utah, the Salt River country and to the 
Gila. George Lake, Andrew Anderson and George W. 
Skinner constituted the Gila party. Near Smithville they 
bought land, a transaction elsewhere referred to. Anderson 
and Skinner, in December, 1880, returned to Brigham City. 
At that point a business meeting was called at once and 
the authorities of the United Order approved the purchases 
made. 

January 1, 1878, was announced a census of the settle- 
ment of the Little Colorado country. Sunset had 136 
inhabitants, Ballenger 277, Allen's Camp 76. Woodruff 
50 and Moen Copie 25, a total of 564, with 115 families. 

Brief Lives of Obed and Taylor 

The settlement of Obed, three miles southwest of St. 
Joseph, directly south of old Allen's Camp and across the 
river, bears date from June, 1876, having been moved a 
short distance from the first camp ground. At that time 
was built a fort of remarkable strength, twelve rods 
square. In places, the walls were ten feet high. There were 
bastions, with portholes for defense, at two of the corners, 
and portholes were in the walls all around. The camp at 
the start had 123 souls. Cottonwood logs were sawed for 
lumber. The community had a schoolhouse in January, 
1877, and a denominational school was started the next 
month, with Phoebe McNeil as teacher. The settlement 
was not a happy one. The site was malarial, selected against 
Church instructions, and there were the usual troubles in 
the washing away of brush and log dams. The population 
drifted away, until there was abandonment in 1878. 

147 



Taylor was a small settlement on the Little .Colorado, 
about three miles below the present St. Joseph, and should 
not be confounded with the present settlement of the same 
name near Snowflake. This first Taylor was established 
January 22, 1878, by eight families, mainly from Panguitch 
and Beaver, Utah. In the United Order they built a dining 
hall, a quarter-mile back from the river and organized as a 
ward, with John Kartchner at its head. But there was dis- 
couragement, not unnaturally, when the river dam went 
out for the fifth time. Then, in July, 1878, members of the 
settlement departed, going to the present site of Snowflake 
on Silver Creek. They included a number of Arkansas 
immigrants. There had been little improvement outside of 
the stockade and dining hall, and for most of the time the 
people lived in their wagons. 



148 



•< £d 

S < 

i> 

s o 

TO K 





LEE CABIN AT MOEN AVI 




MOEN COPIE WOOLEN MILL 
First and Only- One in Arizona 



Chapter Fourteen 



Passing of the Boston Party 

Keen interest in the Southwest was excited early in 
1876 by a series of lectures delivered at New England points 
by Judge Samuel W. Cozzens, author of "The Marvellous 
Country." There was formed the American Colonization 
Company, with Cozzens as president. Two companies of 
men, of about fifty individuals each, were dispatched 
from Boston, each man with equipment weighing about 
thirty pounds. The destination was a fertile valley in 
northeastern Arizona, a land that had been described 
eloquently, probably after only casual observation. The 
end of the Santa Fe railroad was in northern New Mexico. 
There the first party purchased four wagons and a number 
of mules from a grading contractor, Pat Shanley, afterward 
a cattleman in Gila County. 

The best story at hand of the Bostonians is from one 
of them, Horace E. Mann, who for years has been a pros- 
pector and miner and who now is a resident of Phoenix. 
He tells that the journey westward was without particular 
incident until was reached, about June 15, the actual 
destination, the valley of the Little Colorado River, on the 
route of the projected Atlantic & Pacific Railroad. The 
travelers were astonished to find the country already taken 
up by a number of companies of Mormon colonists. 

In New England the Mormons were considered a blood- 
thirsty people, eager to slay any Gentile who might happen 
along. It is not to be intimated that the Bostonians were 
mollycoddles. They appear to have been above even the 

149 



average of the time, manly and stalwart enough, but the 
truth is, as told by Mr. Mann, the expedition did not care 
either to mingle with the Mormons or to incur danger of 
probable slaughter. Therefore, the parties hurried along as 
fast as possible. The same view is indicated in a recent 
interview with David E. Adams, of one of the Mormon settle- 
ments. He told the Historian that he found the Bostonians 
suspicious and fearful. At that time the Utah people still 
were living in their wagons. They were breaking ground 
and were starting upon the construction of dams in the 
river. The second Boston party passed June 23. 

At Sunset Crossing Mann and three of his companions 
entered upon an adventure assuredly novel in arid Arizona. 
They constructed a raft of drift cottonwood and thought 
to lighten the journey by floating down the river. It was 
found that the stream soon bent toward the northward, 
away from the wagon trail. Sometimes there were shoals 
that the raft had to be pushed over and again there were 
deep whirlpools, around which the raft went merrily a 
dozen times before the river channel again could be entered. 
The channel walls grew higher and higher until, finally, 
the navigators pulled the raft ashore and resumed their 
journey on foot, finding their wagon in camp at the Canyon 
Diablo crossing. There, apparently considering themselves 
safe from massacre, was an encampment of a week or more. 

At the Naming of Flagstaff 

Mann, his bunkie, George E. Loring (later express agent 
at Phoenix), a Rhode Islander named Tillinghast and three 
others formed an advance party westward. This party made 
camp at a small spring just south of San Francisco Moun- 
tains, where Flagstaff is now. Mann remembers the place 
as Volunteer Springs in Harrigan Valley. While waiting 
for the main party to come up, the advance guard hunted 
and explored. Mann remembers traveling up a little valley 
to the north and northwest to the big LeRoux Springs, 
below which he found the remains of a burnt cabin and of a 

150 



stockade corral, possibly occupied in the past as a station 
on the transcontinental mail route. 

With reference to the naming of Flagstaff, Mr. Mann is 
very definite. He says that, while waiting for the main 
party, this being late in June, 1876, and merely for occu- 
pation, the limbs were cut from a straight pine tree that was 
growing by itself near the camp. The bark was cut away, 
leaving the tree a model flagstaff and for this purpose it 
was used, the flag being one owned by Tillinghast and the 
only one carried by the expedition. The tree was not cut 
down. It was left standing upon its own roots. This tale is 
rather at variance with one that has been of common 
acceptance in the history of Flagstaff and the date was not 
the Fourth of July, as has been believed, for Mann is sure 
that he arrived in Prescott in June. The main section of 
the first party came a few days later, and was on the 
ground for a celebration of the centennial Fourth of July 
that centered around the flagstaff. 

Mann also remembers that Major Maynadier, one of 
the leaders of the expedition, surveyed a townsite for Flag- 
staff, each of the members of the expedition being allotted 
a tract. The second party joined the first at Flagstaff. 
Word had been received that mechanics were needed at 
Prescott and in the nearby mines, with the large wages of 
$6 a day, and hence there was eagerness to get along and 
have a share in the wealth of the land. It remains to be 
stated that all the men found no difficulty in locating them- 
selves in and around Prescott and that no regret was felt 
over the failure of the original plan. 

Southern Saints Brought Smallpox 

One of the few parties of Southern States Saints known 
for years in any of the Stakes of Zion joined the poverty- 
stricken colonists on the Little Colorado in the fall of 1877. 
Led by Nelson P. Beebe, it numbered about 100 individuals, 
coming through New Mexico by wagon, with a first stop 
at Savoia. The immigrants were without means or food 

151 



and there had to be haste in sending most of them on 
westward, more wagons being sent from the Little Colorado 
camps for their conveyance. At Allen's Camp was a burden 
of sickness, mainly fever sufferers from the unfortunate 
Obed. To these visitors were added seventy of the "Arkan- 
sas Saints," who came October 4. Yet the plucky Allenites 
not only divided with the strangers their scanty store of 
bread, but gave a dance in celebration of the addition to 
the pioneers' strength. The arrivals brought with them a 
new source of woe. One of their number, Thomas West, 
had contracted smallpox at Albuquerque and from this 
case came many prostrations. 

Fort Moroni, at LeRoux Spring 

One of the most important watering places of north- 
eastern Arizona is LeRoux Spring, seven miles northwest of 
Flagstaff on the southwestern slope of the San Francisco 
Mountains. This never-failing spring was a welcome spot 
to the pioneers who traveled the rocky road along the 35th 
parallel of latitude. San Francisco Spring (or Old Town 
Spring) at the present Flagstaff, was much less dependable 
and at the time of the construction of the Atlantic & Pacific 
railroad in 1881-2, water often was hauled to Flagstaff 
from the larger spring, at times sold for $1 a barrel. 

The importance of this water supply appears to have 
been appreciated early by the long-headed directing body of 
the Mormon Church. Early in 1877, under direction of 
John W. Young, son and one of the counselors of Brigham 
Young, from the Little Colorado settlements of St. Joseph 
and Sunset, was sent an expedition that included Alma 
Iverson, John L. Blythe and Jos. W. McMurrin, the last 
at this writing president of the California Mission of the 
Church, then a boy of 18. 

According to Ammon M. Tenney, this LeRoux spring 
was known to the people of the Little Colorado settlements 
as San Francisco spring. Mr. McMurrin personally states 
his remembrance that the expedition proceeded along the 

152 



Beale trail to the spring, near which was built a small log 
cabin, designed to give a degree of title to the water and 
to the locality, probably also to serve as a shelter for any 
missionary parties that might travel the road. There is no 
information that it was used later for any purpose. 

The men were instructed to build a cabin at Turkey 
Tanks, on the road to the Peaks, this cabin to be lined with 
pine needles and to be used as a storage icehouse, Coun- 
selor Young expressing the opinion that there would be 
times in the summer heat of the Little Colorado Valley when 
ice would be of the greatest value. The tanks were hardly 
suitable for this purpose, however, and the icehouse was 
not built. 

Location of the LeRoux spring by the Iverson-Blythe 
party in 1877 appears to have been sufficient to hold the 
ground till it was needed, in 1881, by John W. Young, in 
connection with his railroad work. About sixty graders 
and tie cutters were camped, mainly in tents, on LeRoux 
Prairie or Flat, below the spring, according to Mrs. W. J. 
Murphy, now of Phoenix, a resident of the Prairie for five 
months of 1881, her husband a contractor on the new 
railroad. She remembers no cattle, though deer and ante- 
lope were abundant. 

Stockaded Against the Indians 

In the early spring came reports of Indian raids to the 
eastward. So Young hauled in a number of double-length 
ties, which he set on end, making a stockade, within which 
he placed his camp, mainly of tents. Later were brush 
shelters within, but the great log house, illustrated herein, 
was not built until afterward. Thereafter was attached 
the name of Fort Moroni, given by Young, who organized 
the Moroni Cattle Company. At the time of the coming 
of the grade to Flagstaff, Young also had a camp in the 
western end of the present Flagstaff townsite. 

Fort Moroni was acquired about 1883 by the Arizona 
Cattle Company. The large building was used as a 

153 



mess house. The stockade ties were cut down to fence 
height and eventually disappeared, used by the cowboys 
for fuel. 

An entertaining sidelight on the settlement of what 
later generally was known as Fort Valley has been thrown 
by Earl R. Forrest of Washington, Penn., in early days a 
cowboy for the Arizona Cattle Company. He writes that 
the building formed one side of a 100-foot square, with 
the stockade on the other three sides. In his day, the name 
of the ranch was changed to Fort Rickerson, in honor of 
Chas. L. Rickerson, treasurer of the company. Capt. 
F. B. Bull winkle, the manager, a former Chief of the 
Chicago Fire Department, and a lover of fast stock, was 
killed near Flagstaff, thrown from a stumbling horse while 
racing for the railroad station. Thereafter the property 
passed into the possession of the Babbitt Brothers of 
Flagstaff. The old building was torn down late in 1920. 

In August, 1908, the first forest experiment station 
in the United States was established in Fort Valley. 

The great spring is used only for watering cattle, and 
the spring at Flagstaff appears to have been lost in the 
spread of civilization. 

LeRoux spring was named for Antoine LeRoux, prin- 
cipal guide of the famous survey expedition of Lieut. A. W. 
Whipple, along the 35th parallel, in 1853. Incidentally, 
this is the same LeRoux who was principal guide of the 
Mormon Battalion. 

Mormon Dairy and the Mount Trumbull Mill 

Mormon Mountain, Mormon Lake and Mormon Dairy 
still are known as such, 28 miles southeast of Flagstaff. 
The Dairy was established in September, 1878, by Lot 
Smith, in what then was known as Pleasant Valley, in the 
pines, sixty miles west of Sunset. In that year 48 men 
and 41 women from Sunset and Brigham City, were at the 
Dairy, caring for 115 cows and making butter and cheese. 
Three good log houses had been built. 

154 



Seven miles south of Pleasant Valley (which should not 
be confounded with the Tonto Basin Pleasant Valley of 
sanguinary repute), was the site of the first sawmill on the 
Mogollon Plateau, upon which a half-dozen very large plants 
now operate to furnish lumber to the entire Southwest. 
This mill, probably antedated in northern Arizona only at 
Prescott, first was erected, about 1870, at Mount Trum- 
bull, in the Uinkaret Mountains of northwestern Arizona, 
to cut lumber for the new temple at St. George, Utah, 
fifty miles to the northward. This mill, in 1876, was given 
by the Church authorities to the struggling Little Colo- 
rado River settlements. Taken down in August by the head 
sawyer, Warren R. Tenney, it was hauled into Sunset late 
in September and soon was re-erected by Tenney, and, 
November 7, put into operation in the pine woods near 
Mormon Lake, about sixty miles southwest of Sunset, soon 
turning out 100,000 feet of boards. Its site was named 
Millville. The mill, after the decline of the first settlements, 
passed into the possession of W. J. Flake. In the summer 
of 1882, it was transferred to Pinedale and in 1890 to 
Pinetop. It now is at Lakeside, where, it is assumed, at 
least part of the original machinery still is being oper- 
ated. Its first work at Pinetop was to saw the timbers 
for a large assembly hall, or pavilion, to be used for the 
only conference ever held that included all the Arizona 
Stakes. 

Also in the timber country are to be noted Wilford, 
named in honor of President Wilford Woodruff, and Heber, 
named for Heber C. Kimball, small settlements fifty miles 
southwest of St. Joseph, established in 1883 from St. 
Joseph and other Little Colorado settlements, for stock 
raising and dry farming. John Bushman is believed to 
have been the first Mormon resident of the locality. Log 
houses were built and at Wilford was a schoolhouse, which 
later was moved to St. Joseph, there used as a dwelling. 
When a number of the brethren went into Mexican exile, 

155 



their holdings were "jumped" by outsiders. Wilford has 
been entirely vacated, but Heber still has residents. 

Where Salt Was Secured 

Salt for the early settlements of northern Arizona very 
generally was secured from the salt lake of the Zuni, just 
east of the New Mexican line, roughly 33 miles from St. 
Johns. As early as 1865, Sol Barth brought salt on pack 
mules from this lake to points as far westward as Prescott. 
In the records of a number of the Little Colorado settle- 
ments are found references to where the brethren visited 
a salt lake and came back with as much as two tons at a 
load. This lake is of sacred character to the Zuni, which 
at certain times of the year send parties of priests and 
warriors to the lake, 45 miles south of the tribal village. 
There is elaborate ceremonial before salt is collected. Un- 
doubtedly the lake was known to prehistoric peoples, for 
salt, probably obtained at this point, has been found in 
cliff ruins in southern Colorado, 200 miles from the source 
of supply. The Zuni even had a special goddess, Mawe, 
genius of the sacred salt lake, or "Salt Mother," to whom 
offerings were made at the lake. Warren K. Follett, in 1878, 
told that the lake lies 300 feet lower than the general sur- 
face of the country. The salt forms within the water, in 
layers of from three to four inches thick, and is of remark- 
able purity. 

The Hopi secured salt from a ledge in the Grand Canyon, 
below the mouth of the Little Colorado, about eighty miles 
northwest of their villages. At the point of mining, sacrifices 
were made before shrines of a goddess of salt and a god of 
war. The place has had description by Dr. Geo. Wharton 
James, whose knowledge of the gorge is most comprehen- 
sive. 

On the upper Verde and in Tonto Creek Valley are salt 
deposits, though very impure. Upper Salt River has a 
small deposit of very good sodium chloride, which was mined 
mainly for the mills of Globe, in the seventies. The Verde 

156 



;,.::;. ;.;;;: '-■■ :: : : " ' 



& 




•'■ ^ 






ORIGINAL FORT MORONI WITH ITS STOCKADE 



'jpt^Ht'S 



, in 



jSPl ^d 






.CftQSQN, ARIZONA. 



FORT MORONI IN LATER YEARS 



deposit now is being mined for shipment to paper mills of 
its sodium sulphate. Reference elsewhere is made to the 
salt mines of the Virgin River Valley. 

The Mission Post of Moen Copie 

One of the most interesting early locations of the Mor- 
mon Church in Arizona was that of Moen Copie, about 75 
miles southeast of Lee's Ferry. The name is a Hopi one, 
signifying "running water" or "many springs." The soil 
is alkaline, but it is a place where Indians had raised crops 
for generations. The presiding spirit of the locality was 
Tuba, the Oraibi chief, who had been taken by Jacob 
Hamblin to Utah, there to learn something of the white 
man's civilization. 

Joseph Fish wrote that at an early date Moen Copie was 
selected as a missionary post by Jacob Hamblin and Andrew 
S. Gibbons and that in 1871 and 1872, John L. Blythe and 
family were at that point. 

Permanent settlement on Moen Copie Creek was made 
December 4, 1875, by a party headed by Jas. S. Brown. 
There was establishment of winter quarters, centering in a 
stone house 40x20 feet, with walls twenty inches thick. 
The house was on the edge of a cliff, with two rows of log 
houses forming three sides of a square. 

Indians Who Knew Whose Ox Was Gored 

The Author is pleased to present here a tale of Indian 
craft, delightfully told him by Mrs. Elvira Martineau 
(Benj. S.) Johnson, who, in 1876, accompanied her husband 
to Moen Copie, where he had been sent as a missionary. 
July 4 the women had just prepared a holiday feast when 
Indians were seen approaching. The men were summoned 
from the fields below the cliff. Leading the Indians was a 
Navajo, Peicon, who, addressing Brown as a brother chief- 
tain, thrust forward his young son, dramatically stating 
that the lad had killed three cows owned at the settlement 
of Sunset and offering him for any punishment the whites 

157 



might see fit to inflict, even though it be death. Brown 
mildly suggested that the Sunset people should be seen, but 
that he was sure that all they would ask would be the value 
of the animals. During the protracted argument a party 
of accompanying Utes came into the discussion, threaten- 
ing individuals with their bows and arrows. The Navajos 
were fed and then was developed the truth. It was that the 
men of Sunset had killed three Indian cattle and the wily 
chief had been trying to get Brown to fix a drastic penalty 
upon his own people. Brown went with the Navajos to 
Sunset, there to learn that the half-starved colonists had 
killed three range animals, assumed to have been owner- 
less. The matter then was adjusted with little trouble and 
to the full satisfaction of the redskins. 

In September, 1878, Erastus Snow visited Moen Copie, 
where the inhabitants comprised nine families, with especial 
mention of Andrew S. Gibbons, of the party of John W. 
Young and of Tuba. There had been a prosperous season 
in a farming way. 

This visit is notable from the fact that on the 17th, 
Snow and others proceeded about two miles west of north 
and at Musha Springs located a townsite, afterward named 
Tuba City. Tuba City was visited in 1900 by Andrew 
Jenson, who found twenty families resident, with one fam- 
ily at the old Moen Copie mission and three families at 
Moen Abi, seven miles to the southwest. 
A Woolen Factory in the Wilds 

Primarily the Tuba settlement was a missionary effort, 
with the intention of taking the Gospel into the very center 
of the Navajo and Hopi country. Agriculture flourished a 
all times, with an abundant supply of water for irrigation- 
But there was an attempt at industry and one which would 
appear to have had the very best chance of success. The 
Navajo and Hopi alike are owners of immense numbers of 
sheep. The wool in early days almost entirely was utilized 
by the Indians in the making of blankets, this on rude hand 

158 



looms, where the product was turned out with a maximum 
of labor and of time. John W. Young, elsewhere referred 
to in connection with the establishment of Fort 
Moroni and with the building of the Atlantic and Pacific 
railroad, thought he saw an opportunity to benefit the 
Indians and the Church, and probably himself, so at Tuba 
City, in the spring of 1879, he commenced erection of a wool- 
en factory, with interior dimensions 90x70 feet. The plant 
was finished in November, with 192 spindles in use. In the 
spring of 1880 was a report in the Deseret News that the 
manufacture of yarns had commenced and that the ma- 
chinery was running like a charm. Looms for the cloth-mak- 
ing were reported on the way. Just how labor was secured 
is not known, but it is probable that Indians were utilized 
to as large an extent as possible. There is no available 
record concerning the length of time this mill was operated. 
It is understood, however, that the Indians soon lost in- 
terest in it and failed to bring in wool. Possibly the labor 
supply was not ample and possibly the distance to the Utah 
settlements was too great and the journey too rough to 
secure profit. At any event, the factory closed without 
revolutionizing the Navajo and Hopi woolen industry. In 
1900 was written that the factory "has most literally been 
carried away by Indians, travelers and others." Old Chief 
Tuba took particular pride in watching over the remains 
of the factory, but after his death the ruination of the build- 
ing was made complete. Some of the machinery was taken 
to St. Johns. 

Lot Smith and His End 

In general the Saints at Tuba appear to have lived at 
peace with their Indian neighbors, save in 1892 when Lot 
Smith was killed. The simple tale of the tragedy is in a 
Church record that follows : 

On Monday, June 20, 1892, some Indians at Tuba City turned 
their sheep into Lot Smith's pasture. Brother Smith went out to 
drive the sheep away, and while thus engaged he got into a quarrel 

159 



with the Indians and commenced shooting their sheep. In retalia- 
tion the Indians commenced firing upon Lot Smith's cows and finally 
directed their fire against Lot Smith himself, shooting him through the 
body. Though mortally wounded, he rode home, a distance of about 
two miles, and lived about six hours, when he expired. It is stated 
on good authority that the Indians were very sorry, as Smith always 
had been a friend to them. 

The Author here might be permitted to make reference 
to the impression generally held in the Southwest that Lot 
Smith was a "killer," a man of violence, who died as he had 
lived. Close study of his record fails to bear out this view. 
Undoubtedly it started in Utah after his return from Mor- 
mon Battalion service, when he became a member of the 
Mormon militia that harassed Johnston's army in the 
passes east of the Salt Lake Valley. There is solemn Church 
assurance that not a life was taken in this foray, though 
many wagons were burned in an attempt, October 3, 1857, 
to delay the march of the troops. Smith (who in no wise 
was related to the family of the Prophet Joseph) became 
a leader in the Deseret defense forces, but there is belief 
that in all his life he shed no blood, unless it was in con- 
nection with a battle with the Utes near Provo, in February, 
1850. In this fight were used brass cannon, probably those 
that had been bought at Sutter's Fort by returning Mormon 
Battalion members. According to a friendly biographer, 
"There never was a man who held the life and liberty of 
man more sacred than did Lot Smith." Ten years after his 
death there was re-interment of his remains at Farmington, 
Utah. 

Moen Copie Reverts to the Indians 

In 1900 Moen Copie ward embraced 21 families and 
about 150 souls. There had been an extension of the Navajo 
reservation westward and the Indians, though friendly, 
had been advised to crowd the Mormons out, on the ground 
that the country in reality belonged to the aborigines. 
There was no title to the land, which had not been sur- 
veyed and which was held only by squatter rights. There 

160 



had been some success in a missionary way, but conditions 
arose which made it appear best that the land be vacated 
to the Indians. There was much negotiation and at the 
end there was payment by the government of $45,000, 
this divided among the whites according to the value of 
their improvements and acreage. 

In this wise the Mormon settlement of Tuba City was 
vacated in February, 1903, the inhabitants moving to other 
parts of Arizona and to Utah and Idaho. A large reservation 
school has been established on the Wash, many Indians 
there being instructed in the arts of the white man, while 
government farmers are utilizing the waters of the stream 
and of the springs in the cultivation of a considerable 
acreage. A feature of this school is that fuel is secured, at 
very slight cost, from coal measures nearby. 

Woodruff and Its Water Troubles 

Closely following settlement of the ephemeral lower 
Little Colorado towns came the founding of Woodruff, 
about 25 miles upstream from St. Joseph and about twelve 
miles above the present Holbrook. It is still a prosperous 
town and community, though its history has been one in 
which disaster has come repeatedly through the washing 
away of the dam which supplies its main canal with water 
from the Little Colorado and Silver Creek. 

In the locality the Mormons were antedated by Luther 
Martin and Felix Scott. The section was scouted in De- 
cember, 1876, by Joseph H. Richards, Lewis P. Cardon, 
James Thurman and Peter O. Peterson, from Allen's Camp, 
and they participated in starting a ditch from the river. 
There appeared to have been no indication of occupancy 
when, in March, 1877, Ammon M. Tenney passed through 
the valley and determined it a good place for location. In 
the following month, however, Cardon and two sons, and 
Wm. A. Walker came upon the ground, with other families, 
followed, three weeks later, by Nathan C. Tenney, father 
of Ammon M., with two sons, John T. and Samuel, Hans 

161 



Gulbrandsen and Charles Riggs. For about a year the 
settlement was known simply as Tenney's Camp. L. H. 
Hatch was appointed to take charge in February, 1878. 
About that time the name of Woodruff was adopted, in 
honor of President Wilford Woodruff, this suggestion made 
by John W. Young. The first settlement was in a rock 
and adobe fort, forming a half square. There was a common 
dining room as, for a while, there was adherence to the 
system of the United Order. It is told that all save two of 
the settlers participated and there is memorandum of how 
three sisters were detailed weekly for cooking, with girls 
as assistants. 

In February, 1882, was survey of the present townsite, 
on which John Reidhead built the first house. This town- 
site was purchased from the Atlantic and Pacific Railroad 
Company, in May, 1889, for $8 an acre. At first it had not 
been appreciated that the town had not been built upon 
government land. 

The history of Woodruff has in it much of disastrous 
incident through the frequent breaking of the river dams. 
In May, 1880, the dam had to be cut by the settlers them- 
selves, in order to permit the water to flow down to St. 
Joseph, where there was priority of appropriation. At 
several times, the Church organization helped in the repair 
or building of the many dams, after the settlers had spent 
everything they had and had reached the point of despair. 
At suggestion of Jesse N. Smith in 1884, all the brethren in 
the Stake were called upon to donate one day each of 
labor on the Woodruff dam. Up to 1890, the dam had been 
washed out seven times and even now there is trouble in its 
maintenance. 

Of passing interest is the fact that President Wilford 
Woodruff, after whom the settlement was named, was a 
visitor to Woodruff on at least two occasions, in 1879, and 
in 1887, when an exile from Utah. He was at Moen Copie 
when there came news, which later proved erroneous, that 

162 



pursuers had crossed at Lee's Ferry. Then, guided by- 
Richard Gibbons, he rode westward, making a stop of a 
few days at Fort Moroni. 

Holbrook Once Was Horsehead Crossing 

Holbrook, on the Little Colorado, county seat of Navajo 
County, shipping point on the Santa Fe railroad system for 
practically all of Navajo and Apache Counties, had Mor- 
mon inception, under its present name, that of an Atlantic 
and Pacific railroad locating engineer, F. A. Holbrook. The 
christening is said to have been done in 1881 by John W. 
Young, then a grading contractor, applied to a location two 
miles east of the present townsite. Young there had a store 
at his headquarters. Later the railroad authorities estab- 
lished the town on its present location. 

The settlement, since the first coming of English-speak- 
ing folk, had been known as Horsehead Crossing. For years 
before the railroad came, a roadside station was kept at 
the Crossing by a Mexican, Berardo, whose name was dif- 
ferently spelled by almost every traveler who wrote of him. 
One of the tales is from E. C. Bunch, who came as a young 
member of the Arkansas immigration in 1876, and who 
later became one of the leaders in Arizona education. He 
tells, in referring appreciatively to Mexican hospitality, 
that "Berrando's" sign, painted by an American, read, 
"If you have the money, you can eat." But the owner, 
feeling the misery coldheartedness might create, wrote 
below, "No got a money, eat anyway." Berardo loaned 
the colonists some cows, whose milk was most welcome. 



163 



Chapter Fifteen 



Snowflake and its Naming 

Snowflake, one of the most prosperous of towns of Mor- 
mon origin, lies 28 miles almost south of Holbrook, with 
which it was given railroad connection during 1919. The 
first settler was James Stinson who came in 1873, and who, 
by 1878, had taken out the waters of Silver Creek for the 
irrigation of about 300 acres. In July, 1878, Stinson (later 
a resident of Tempe) sold to Wm. J. Flake for $11,000, paid 
in livestock. 

July 21, the first Mormons moved upon the Stinson 
place. They were Flake, James Gale, Jesse Brady, Alex- 
ander Stewart and Thomas West, with their families, most 
of them from the old Taylor settlement. Others followed 
soon thereafter, including six Taylor families, headed by 
John Kartchner, they taking the upper end of the valley. 

Actual foundation of the town came in an incident of 
the most memorable of the southwestern trips of Erastus 
Snow. He and his party arrived at the Kartchner ranch 
September 26, 1878, the location described by L. John 
Nuttall of the party as "a nice little valley." As bishop 
was appointed John Hunt of Savoia, who was with the 
Mormon Battalion, and who remained in the same 
capacity till 1910. Flake's location was considered best for 
a townsite and to it was given the name it now bears, 
honoring the visiting dignitary and the founder. The town- 
site was surveyed soon thereafter by Samuel G. Ladd of 
St. Joseph, who also laid out several ditch lines. Even 
before there was a town, there was a birth, that of William 
Taylor Gale, son of James Gale. 

164 




ERASTUS SNOW 

In Charge of Pioneer Arizona Colonization 



January 16, 1879, arrived Jesse N. Smith, president of 
the newly-created Eastern Arizona Stake, appointed on 
recommendation of Erastus Snow. After trying to nego- 
tiate for land at St. Johns, he returned, and he and his 
company concluded to locate in Snowflake, where they took 
up lots not already appropriated. The farming land went 
in a drawing of two parcels each to the city lot owners, 
who thus became possessed of twenty acres each. Joseph 
Fish headed a committee on distribution, which valued 
each city lot at $30, each first-class farming plot of ten 
acres at $110 and each second-class plot at $60, giving 
each shareholder property valued at $200, or ten head of 
stock, this being at the rate that Flake paid for the whole 
property. Flake took only one share. 

The Mormon towns usually were of the quietest, but 
occasionally had excitement brought to them. On one such 
occasion at Snowflake, December 8, 1892, was killed Chas. 
L. Flake, son of Wm. J. Flake. A message had come from 
New Mexico asking detention of Will Mason, a desperado 
said to have had a record of seven murders. Charles and 
his brother, Jas. M., attempted the arrest. Mason fired 
twice over his shoulder, the first bullet cutting James' 
left ear, and then shot Charles through the neck. Almost 
the same moment a bullet from James' pistol passed 
through the murderer's head, followed by a second. 

Of modern interest, indicative of the trend of public 
sentiment, is an agreement, entered into late in 1920, by 
the merchants of Snowflake and the towns to the south- 
ward, to sell no tobacco, in any form. 

Snowflake was the first county-seat of Apache County, 
created in 1879, the first court session held in the home of 
Wm. J. Flake. At the fall election, the courthouse was 
moved to St. Johns. In 1880, by the vote of Clifton, which 
then was within Apache County, Springerville was made 
the county seat. In 1882, St. Johns finally was chosen the 
seat of Apache County government. 

165 



Joseph Fish, Historian 

The first consecutive history of Arizona, intended to be 
complete in its narration, undoubtedly was that written by 
Joseph Fish, for many years resident in or near Snowfiake. 
Though Mr. Fish is a patriarch of the Mormon Church, 
his narration of events is entirely uncolored, unless by 
sympathy for the Indians. His work never had publication, 
a fact to be deplored. A copy of his manuscript is in the 
office of the State Historian, and another is possessed by 
Dr. J. A. Munk, held by him in his library of Arizoniana 
in the Southwestern Museum at Garvanza, Cal. 

The history has about 700 pages of typewritten matter, 
treating of events down to a comparatively late date. Mr. 
Fish has a clear and lucid style of narration and his work 
is both interesting and valuable. Though of no large 
means, he gathered, at his home on the Little Colorado, 
about 400 books and magazines, and upon this basis and 
by personal interviews and correspondence he secured the 
data upon which he wrote. He is a native of Illinois, of 
Yankee stock, and is now in his eightieth year. He came to 
Arizona in 1879 and the next year was in charge of the 
commissary department for the contract of John W. Young 
in the building of the Atlantic and Pacific railroad. His 
first historical work was done as clerk of the Eastern 
Arizona Stake. In 1902 he began work on another his- 
torical volume, "The Pioneers of the Rocky Mountains." 
He now is resident in Enterprise, Utah. 

Another historic character resident in the Stake was 
Ralph Ramsey, the artist in wood who carved the eagle 
that overspreads the Eagle gate in Salt Lake City. 

Taylor, Second of the Name 

Taylor, the second settlement of the name in the Mor- 
mon northeastern occupation, lies thiee miles south of 
Snowfiake (which it antedates). It is on Silver Creek, 
which is spanned by a remarkable suspension bridge that 
connects two sections of the town. When the first Mormon 

166 



residents came, early in 1878 the settlement was known as 
Bagley. Then there was to be change to Walker, but the 
Postoffice Department objected, as another Walker ex- 
isted, near Prescott. The present name, honoring John 
Taylor, president of the Church, was adopted in 1881, at 
the suggestion of Stake President Jesse N. Smith. 

The first settler was James Pearce, a noted character in 
southwestern annals, son of the founder of Pearce's Ferry 
across the Colorado at the mouth of Grand Wash, at the 
lower end of the Grand Canyon. James Pearce was a pio- 
neer missionary with Jacob Hamblin among the Paiutes 
of the Nevada Muddy region and the Hopi and Navajo of 
northeastern Aiizona. He came January 23, 1878, in March 
joined by John H. Standiford. Other early arrivals were 
Jos. C. Kay, Jesse H. and Wm. A. Walker, Lorenzo Hatch, 
an early missionary to the northeastern Arizona Indians, 
Noah Brimhall and Daniel Bagley. A ditch was surveyed 
by Major Ladd, who did most of such work for all the 
settlements, but the townsite, established in 1878, on the 
recommendation, in September, of Erastus Snow, was 
surveyed in December by a group of interested residents, 
led by Jos. S. Cardon, their "chain" being a rope. The 
irrigation troubles of the community appear to have been 
fewer than those of the Little Colorado towns, though in 
the great spring flood of 1890 the dams and bridges along 
Silver Creek were carried away. 

Shumway's Historic Founder 

Shumway, on Silver Creek, five miles above Taylor, has 
interest of historical sort in the fact that it was named 
after an early settler Charles Shumway, one of the most 
noted of the patriarchs of the Church. He was the first 
to cross the Mississippi, February 4, 1846, in the exodus 
from Nauvoo, and was one of the 143 Pioneers who entered 
Salt Lake with Brigham Young the following summer. 
In December, 1879, his son, Wilson G. Shumway, accepted 
a call to Arizona. Most of the winter was spent at Grand 

167 



Falls in a "shack" he built of cottonwood logs, roofed 
with sandstone slabs. In this he entertained Apostle Wood- 
ruff, who directed the chiseling of the name "Wilford 
Woodruff" upon a rock. Charles Shumway and N. P. Beebe 
bought the mill rights on Silver Creek, acquired through 
location the previous year by Nathan C. and Jesse Wanslee, 
brought machinery from the East and, within a year, 
started a grist mill that still is a local institution. The 
village of Shumway never has had more than a score of 
families. Charles Shumway died May 21, 1898. His record 
of self-sacrifice continued after his arrival in Arizona early 
in 1880, the first stop being at Concho. There, according 
to his son, Wilson G., the family for two years could have 
been rated as among "the poorest of poor pioneers," with 
a dugout for a home, this later succeeded by a log cabin of 
comparative luxury. For months the bread was of barley 
flour, the diet later having variety, changed to corn bread 
and molasses, with wheat flour bread as a treat on Sundays. 

Showlow Won in a Game of "Seven-Up" 

Showlow, one of the freak Arizona place names, applied 
to a creek and district, as well as to a thrifty little settle- 
ment, lies about south of Snowflake, twenty miles or more. 
The name antedates the Mormon settlement. The valley 
jointly was held by C. E. Cooley and Marion Clark, both 
devoted to the card game of "seven-up." At a critical 
period of one of their games, when about all possible prop- 
erty had been wagered, Clark exclaimed, "Show low and 
you take the ranch!" Cooley "showed low." This same 
property later was sold by him to W. J. Flake, for $13,000. 

The Showlow section embraces the mountain com- 
munities of Showlow, Reidhead (Lone Pine), Pinedale, 
Linden, Juniper, Adair (which once had unhappy designa- 
tion as "Fools' Hollow"), Ellsworth, Lakeside (also known 
as Fairview and Woodland), Pinetop and Cluff's Cienega. 
Cooley, in the Cienega (Sp., marsh) is the siteTof a large 
sawmill and is the terminus of a railroad from Holbrook. 

168 



But the noted scout Cooley, lived elsewhere, at Showlow 
and at Apache Springs. 

The first Mormons to come to Showlow were Alfred 
Cluff and David E. Adams, who were employed by Cooley 
in 1876. They were from Allen's Camp, almost driven 
away by necessity. Others soon came, including Moses and 
Orson Cluff, Edmund Ellsworth and Edson Whipple, a 
Salt Lake Pioneer. There was gradual settlement of the 
communities above listed, generally prior to 1880. While 
only one member of the faith was killed during the Indian 
troubles of the eighties, log and stone forts were erected in 
several of the villages for use in case of need. 

Mountain Communities 

Out in the woods, twenty miles southwest of Snowflake, 
is the village of Pinedale, settled in January, 1879, by Niels 
Mortensen and sons and Niels Peterson. The first location 
was at what now is called East Pinedale, also known at 
different times as Mortensen and Percheron. In the follow- 
ing winter, a small sawmill was brought in from Fort Apache 
and in 1882 came a larger mill, the original Mount Trum- 
bull mill. In that year a townsite had rough survey by 
James Huff and in 1885 a schoolhouse was built. The 
brethren had much trouble with desperados, horse and 
cattle thieves, but peace came after the Pleasant Valley 
war in Tonto Basin, in which thirty of the range riders were 
killed. 

Reidhead, also known at times as Woolf's Ranch, Lone 
Pine Crossing, Beaver Branch and Reidhead Crossing, is 
one of the deserted points of early settlement, historically 
important mainly in the fact that it was the home of Nathan 
B. Robinson, killed nearby by Apaches June 1, 1882. Fear 
of the Indians then drove away the other settlers and, 
though there was later return, in 1893 was final abandon- 
ment. Reidhead lay on Showlow Creek, ten miles above 
Taylor and ten miles from Cooley's ranch. It was one of 
the places of first white settlement in northeastern Arizona, 

169 



a Mexican having had his ranch there even before Cooley 
came into the country. Then came one Woolf, from whom 
squatter rights were bought in April, 1878, by John Reid- 
head, then lately from Utah. 

Pinetop, 35 miles south of Snowflake, dates back to 
March, 1888, when settled by Wm. L. Penrod and sons, 
including four families, all from Provo, Utah. Progress 
started with the transfer to Pinetop of the Mount Trum- 
bull mill in 1890. The name is said to have been given by 
soldiers, the first designation having been Penrod. A 
notable event in local history was a joint conference in 
Pinetop, July 4, 1892, with representatives from all Arizona 
Stakes and attended by President Woodruff's counselors, 
Geo. Q. Cannon and Jos. F. Smith. For this special occasion 
was built a pavilion, the largest in Arizona, a notable under- 
taking for a small community. The structure was destroyed 
by fire a few years ago. 

Forest Dale on the Reservation 

In the settlement of what now is southern Navajo 
County, the Mormon settlers a bit overran the present line 
of the Apache Indian reservation, where they located early 
in 1878 upon what now is known as Forest Dale Creek, a 
tributary of Carrizo Creek. The country is a beautiful one, 
well watered from abundant rains and well wooded, possibly 
a bit more favored than the present settlements of Showlow, 
Pinetop and Lakeside, which lie just north of the reservation 
line. There is reference in a letter of Llewellyn Harris, in 
July, 1878, to the settlement of Forest Dale, but the name 
is found in writings several months before. Harris and 
several others refer to the Little Colorado country as being 
in "Aravapai" County. This was in error. The county then 
was Yavapai, before the separation of Apache County. 

The valley was found by Oscar Cluff while hunting in 
the fall of 1877 and soon thereafter he moved there with his 
family. In February there followed his brother, Alfred 
Cluff, who suggested the name. The settlement was started 

170 



February 18, 1878, by Jos. H. Frisby, Merritt Staley, Oscar 
Mann, Orson and Alfred Cluff, Ebenezer Thayne, David 
E. Adams and a few others. 

The overruning referred to was not done blindly. Jos. 
H. Frisby and Alfred Cluff went to San Carlos. There they 
were assured by Agent Hart that Apache Springs and the 
creek referred to were not on the reservation, and that the 
government would protect them if they would settle there. 
It was understood that the reservation line lay about three 
miles south of the settlement. This information is con- 
tained in a letter signed by Agent Hart and addressed to 
Colonel Andrews, Eleventh Infantry, commanding Fort 
Apache. Mr. Hart stated that he would be "glad to have 
the settlers make permanent homes at Forest Dale, for the 
reason that the Indians strayed so far from their own lands 
that it was hard to keep track of them as conditions then 
were, and that the settlement of the country would have a 
tendency to hold the Indians on their own lands upon the 
reservation." 

Lieutenant Ray was sent with a detachment of troops 
and the Indians at Apache Springs were removed and the 
main body of the settlers, then temporarily located on the 
Showlow, moved over the ridge into the new valley. 

In March, 1878, the settlers included Merritt Staley, 
Oscar Mann, Ebenezer Thayne, David E. Adams, Jos. H. 
Frisby, Alfred Cluff, Isaac Follett, Orson Cluff and several 
unmarried men. In September, Erastus Snow found a very 
prosperous settlement. A ward organization was estab- 
lished. The first white child, Forest Dale Adams, is now 
the wife of Frank Webster, of Central, Arizona. Seven 
springs of good water, known as Apache Springs, formed 
the headwaters of Carrizo Creek. 

In 1879, Missionaries Harris and Thayne appear to 
have made a mistake similar to that of the Arab who 
allowed the camel to thrust his nose inside of the tent. 
They secured permission from the commanding officer of 

171 



Fort Apache to allow about a dozen Indian families on the 
creek. The missionary efforts appear to have failed, and 
the Indians simply demanded everything in sight. Reports 
came that the locality really was on the reservation and 
the white population therefore drifted away, mainly into 
the Gila Valley. In December, 1879, only three families 
were left, and the following year the last were gone. 

In 1881 rumors drifted down the Little Colorado that 
Forest Dale, after all, was not on the reservation. So 
William Crookston and three others resettled the place, 
some of them from the abandoned Brigham City. Then 
came the Indian troubles of 1881-82. When Fort Apache 
was attacked, the families consolidated at Cooley, where 
they built a fort. Some went north to Snowflake and 
Taylor. In December, 1881, President Jesse N. Smith of 
the Eastern Arizona Stake advised the Forest Dale settlers 
to satisfy the Indians for their claims on the place, and 
received assurance from Geneial Carr at Fort Apache, that 
the locality most likely was not on the reservation and that, 
in case it was not, he would be pleased to have the Mormon 
settlers there. A new ward was established and William 
Ellsworth and twenty more families moved in, mainly from 
Brigham City. In May, 1882, the Indians came again to 
plant corn and were wrathful to find the whites ahead of 
them. An officer was sent from Fort Apache and a treaty 
was made by which the Indians were given thirty acres 
of planted land. 

June 1, 1882, Apaches killed Nathan B. Robinson at 
the Reidhead place and shot Emer Plumb at Walnut 
Springs, during a period of general Indian unrest. Soon 
thereafter, President Smith advised the settlers that they 
had better look for other locations, as the ground was on 
the reservation. 

In December, Lieutenant Gatewood, under orders from 
Captain Crawford (names afterward famous in the Ger- 
onimo campaign to the southward) came from Fort Apache 

172 




A GROUP OF ST. JOSEPH PIONEERS AND 
HISTORIAN ANDREW JENSON 




:>liHH^Him^H 




SHUMWAY AND THE OLD MILL ON SILVER CREEK 



and advised the settlers they would be given until the spring 
to vacate. The crops were disposed of at Fort Apache and 
the spring of 1883 found Forest Dale deserted, houses, 
fences, corrals and every improvement left behind. The 
drift of the settlers was to the Gila Valley. 

This Forest Dale affair was made a national matter, 
January 24, 1916, when a bill was introduced by Senator 
Ashurst of Arizona for the relief of Alfred Cluff, Orson 
Cluff, Henry E. Norton, Wm. B. Ballard, Elijah Hancock, 
Susan R. Saline, Oscar Mann, Celia Thayne, William Cox, 
Theodore Farley, Adelaide Laxton, Clara L. Tenney, 
Geo. M. Adams, Charlotte Jensen and Sophia Huff. Later 
additions were David E. Adams and Peter H. McBride. 

The amounts claimed by each varied from $2000 to 
$15,000. A similar bill had been introduced by the Senator 
in a previous Congress. In his statement to the Indian 
Affairs Committee, the Senator stated that the settlements 
had been on unreserved and vacant Government lands and 
that the reservation had been extended to cover the tract 
some time in 1882. 

Appended were affidavits from each of the individuals 
claiming compensation. All told of moving during the 
winter, under conditions of great hardship, of cold and 
exposure and loss of property. 

David E. Adams, one of the few survivors of the 
Forest Dale settlement, lately advised the Author that the 
change in the reservation line undeniably was at the sug- 
gestion of C. E. Cooley, a noted Indian scout, who feared 
the Mormons would compete with him in supplying corn 
and forage to Fort Apache. 

Tonto Basin's Early Settlement 

Soon after location on the Little Colorado there was 
exploration to the southwest, with a view toward settle- 
ment extension. At the outset was encountered the very 
serious obstruction of the great Mogollon Rim, a precipice 
that averages more, than 1000 feet in height for several 

173 



hundred miles. Ways through this were found, however, 
into Tonto Basin, a great expanse, about 100 miles in length 
by 80 in width, lying south and southwest of the Rim, 
bounded on the west by the Mazatzal Mountains, and on the 
south and southeast by spurs of the Superstitions and 
Pinals. The Basin itself contains a sizable mountain range, 
the Sierra Ancha. 

The first exploration was made in July, 1876, by Wm. 
C. Allen, John Bushman, Pleasant Bradford and Peter Han- 
sen. Their report was unfavorable, in considering settle- 
ment. In the fall of the following year there was explora- 
tion by John W. Freeman, John H. Willis, Thomas Clark, 
Alfred J. Randall, Willis Fuller and others. They re- 
turned a more favorable report. In March, 1878, Willis 
drove stock into the upper Basin and also took the first 
wagon to the East Verde Valley. He was followed by 
Freeman and family and Riel Allen. Freeman located a 
road to the Rim, from Pine Springs to Baker's Butte, about 
forty miles. Price W. Nielson (or Nelson) settled on Rye 
Creek, in 1878. In the following year was started the Pine 
settlement, about twenty miles north of the East Verde 
settlement, with Riel Allen at its head. There is record 
that most of the settlers on the East Verde moved away in 
1879, mainly to Pine, and others back to the Little Colo- 
rado. However, the Author, in September of 1889, found a 
very prosperous little Mormon settlement on the East 
Verde, raising alfalfa, fruit and livestock. It was called 
Mazatzal City and lay within a few miles of the Natural 
Bridge, which is on the lower reaches of Pine Creek before 
that stream joins the East Verde. 

A settlement was in existence at least as late as 1889 
on upper Tonto Creek. The first resident was David 
Gowan, discoverer of the Natural Bridge, he and two 
others taking advantage of the presence of a beaver-built 
log dam, from which an irrigating canal was started. The 
first of the Mormon settlers at that point, in 1883, were 

174 



John and David W. Sanders, with their families, they 
followed by the Adams, Bagley and Gibson families. This 
location was a very lonely one, though less than ten miles, 
by rocky trail, from the town of Payson. It was not well 
populated, at any time, though soil, climate and water 
were good. 

Erastus Snow in 1878 made formal visit to the Tonto 
settlements. He found on Rye Creek the Price Nelson and 
Joseph Gibson families, less than a mile above where the 
stream entered Tonto Creek. Thereafter were visited the 
East Verde settlements, from which most of the men had 
gone to southern Utah after their families and stock, and 
Pine Creek and Strawberry Valley, where later was con- 
siderable settlement. 

According to Fish, the first settlement in Tonto Basin 
was by Al Rose, a Dane, in 1877, in Pleasant Valley, though 
he lived for only a few months in a stockade home which 
he erected. Then came G. S. Sixby and J. Church from 
California. There followed Ed. Rose, J. D. Tewksbury 
and sons, the Graham family and James Stinson, the last 
from Snowfiake. Sixby is renowned as the hero of a 
wonderful experience in the spring of 1882, when, his 
brother and an employe killed, he held the fort of his log 
home against more than 100 Indians, the same band later 
fought and captured by Capt. Adna R. Chaffee in the 
fight of the Big Dry Wash. 

There was good reason for the delayed settlement of 
Tonto Basin, for it was a region traversed continually by 
a number of Indian tribes. It was a sort of No Man's Land, 
in which wandered the Mohave-Apache and the Tonto, 
the Cibicu and White Mountain Apaches, not always at 
peace among themselves. Several times the Pleasant and 
Cherry Creek Valleys were highways for Indian raids of 
large dimensions. The Pleasant Valley war, between the 
Tewksbury and Graham factions cost thirty lives. No 
Mormon participated. 

175 



Most of the land holdings necessarily were small. The 
water supply is regular in only a few places. Hence it is 
natural that most of the Mormons who settled, moved on, 
to better agricultural conditions found farther southward. 
Abandonment of all Tonto Basin settlements was author- 
ized at a meeting of President Woodruff with the heads 
of the Arizona Stakes, held at Albuquerque August 14, 1890. 



176 



Chapter Sixteen 



Genesis of St. Johns 

One of the most remarkable of Arizona settlements is 
St. Johns, 58 miles southeast of Holbrook, its railroad 
station. Though its development has been almost entirely 
Mormon and though it is headquarters for the St. Johns 
Stake of the Church, its foundation dates back of the 
Mormon occupation of the valley of the Little Colorado. 

Very early in the seventies, New Mexican cattle and 
sheep men spread their ranges over the mountains into the 
Little Colorado Valley and there were occasional camps of 
the Spanish-speaking people. In 1872 a mail carrier, John 
Walker, had built a cabin on the river, five miles below the 
site of St. Johns. As early as 1864 the locality had been 
visited by Solomon Barth, a Jewish trader, who dealt with 
the Indians as far eastward as Zuni and who, on burros, 
packed salt from the Zuni salt lake to the mining camps 
of the Prescott section. Barth, oddly enough, for a while 
had been connected with the Mormons, at the age of 13, a 
new arrival from Posen, East Prussia, joining his uncle in 
a push-cart caravan to Salt Lake. Later he was in San 
Bernardino, there remaining after the 1857 exodus, to go 
to La Paz, Arizona, in 1862. In 1864 he carried mail on 
the route from Albuquerque to Prescott, as contractor. 
In November, 1868, he was captured by Apaches, but was 
liberated, with several Mexican associates, all almost naked, 
reaching the Zuni villages, on foot, four days later. For 
food they shared the carcass of a small dog. In 1870 he was 
post trader at Fort Apache, then known as Camp Ord, in 

177 



the year of its establishment. In 1873, a game of cards at 
El Badito (Little Crossing), a settlement on the Little 
Colorado, on the St. Johns site, determined his future 
terrestrial place of residence. From his adversaries, 
New Mexicans, he won several thousand head of sheep and 
several thousand dollars. Then he left the life of the road 
and settled down. 

A. F. Banta, a pioneer of Arizona pioneers, then known 
by his army name of Charlie Franklin, tells that he was at 
Badito (Vadito) in 1876, the place then on a mail route 
southward to Fort Apache and the military posts on the 
Gila. In the same connection, James D. Houck, in 1874, 
contracted to carry mail across the Little Colorado Valley, 
between Fort Wingate and Prescott. Another mail route 
was from Wingate to St. Johns and Apache. 

Sol Barth and his brothers, Morris and Nathan, settled 
at St. Johns in the fall of 1873, with a number of New Mex- 
ican laborers. At once was commenced construction of a 
dam across the Little Colorado and of ditches and there 
was farming of a few hundred acres adjoining the site of 
the present town. In all, Barth laid claim to 1200 acres 
of land, though it proved later he had only a squatter title. 
With him originated the name of St. Johns, at first San 
Juan, given in compliment to the first female resident, 
Senora Maria San Juan Baca de Padilla. With this conspic- 
uous exception, all saintly names in Arizona were bestowed 
by either Catholic missionaries or by Mormons. 

Ammon M. Tenney, a scout of Mormondom second only 
to Jacob Hamblin, in 1877 at Kanab received from Presi- 
dent Brigham Young instructions to go into Arizona and 
select places for colonization. He visited many points in 
western New Mexico and eastern Arizona, but his recom- 
mendation was confined to St. Johns, Concho, sixteen miles 
west of St. Johns, The Meadows, eight miles northwest, and 
Woodruff. 

With the Tenney report in mind, in January, 1879, St. 

178 



Johns was visited by Jesse N. Smith, just arrived in Arizona 
to be president of the Little Colorado Stake. But Smith 
was unable to make terms with Barth and his Mexican 
neighbors and turned back to Snowflake. 
Land Purchased by Mormons 

Under instructions from the Church, Ammon M. Ten- 
ney returned to St. Johns late in 1879 and, November 16, 
succeeded in effecting the purchase of the Barth interests, 
including three claims at The Meadows. The purchase 
price was 770 head of American cows, furnished by the 
Church, though 100 were loaned by W. J. Flake. The value 
of the livestock, estimated at $19,000, in later years was 
donated by the Church toward the erection of the St. 
Johns academy. Other land purchases later were made by 
arriving members. 

Tenney was the first head of the colony, which was 
started in December, by the arrival of Jos. H. Watkins and 
Wm. F. James, missionaries sent from Ogden, who came 
with their families. In December, Apostle Wilford Wood- 
ruff, later President of the Church, held the first religious 
meeting, this at the home of Donasiano Gurule, a New 
Mexican. The Church authorities were active in their 
settlement plans and at a quarterly Stake conference in 
Snowflake, March 27, 1880, 190 souls were reported from 
the St. Johns branch. 

A few days after the conference, Apostle Woodruff 
located a townsite one and a half miles below the center of 
the present site. This location, though surveyed and with a 
few houses, was abandoned the following September, on 
recommendation of Apostles Erastus Snow and Francis M. 
Lyman, for higher ground, west and north of the Mexican 
village. In the summer of 1880 the settlement, named 
Salem, was given a postoffice, but the Mormon postmaster 
appointed, Sixtus E. Johnson, failed to secure his keys from 
a non-Mormon, E. S. Stover, incumbent at San Juan. 

A notable arrival, October 9, 1890, was David K. Udall, 

179 



called from Kane County, Utah, to serve as bishop of St. 
Johns ward. With continuous ecclesiastical service, he now 
is president of St. Johns Stake, elevated in July, 1887. 

Occupation of the new townsite started early in Octo- 
ber, 1880, the public square designated by President Jesse 
N. Smith on the 9th. Twenty square-rod city lots were 
laid off in blocks 24 rods square, with streets six rods wide. 
In the spring of 1881 the farming land was surveyed into 
forty 40-acre blocks, these later subdivided. During the 
winter of 1881 was built a log schoolhouse, through private 
donations. The first teacher was Mrs. Anna Romney. The 
first church was a "bowery" of greasewood. 

That the years following hardly were ones of plenty 
is indicated by the fact that in the spring of 1885 President 
John Taylor issued a tithing office order for $1000 and $1187 
more was collected in Utah stakes, to aid the St. Johns 
settlers in the purchase of foodstuffs and seed grain. 

A. F. Banta started a weekly newspaper, "The Pioneer 
Press," soon after occupation of the townsite, this journal 
in January, 1883, bought by Mormons and edited by 
M. P. Romney. 

Wild Celebration of St. John's Day 

There was a wild time in St. Johns on the day of the 
Mexican population's patron saint, San Juan, June 24, 
1882, when Nat Greer and a band of Texas cowboys entered 
the Mexican town. The Greers had been unpopular with 
the Mexicans since they had marked a Mexican with an ear 
"underslope," as cattle are marked, this after a charge that 
their victim had been found in the act of stealing a Greer 
colt. The fight that followed the Greer entry had nothing 
at its initiation to do with the Mormon settlers. Assaulted 
by the Mexican police and populace, eight of the band rode 
away and four were penned into an uncompleted adobe 
house. Jim Vaughn of the raiders was killed and Harris 
Greer was wounded. On the attacking side was wounded 
Francisco Tafolla, whose son in later years was killed while 

180 




FIRST MORMON SCHOOL, CHURCH AND BOWERY AT 
ST. JOHNS 




DAVID K. UDALL AND HIS FIRST RESIDENCE 
AT ST. JOHNS 




ST. JOHNS IN 1887 
Sol Barth's House with the Tower 











Kiw'iFflHu. . *^ ^srt HH mri 




1 




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_*5»t . st. john& academy e 




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;'■■■•■ ■•-■,.-,;■ ;^ : - ■-. .■■-■-:>: 







THE STAKE ACADEMY AT ST. JOHNS 



serving in the Arizona Rangers. It was declared that 
several thousand shots had been fired, but there was a lull, 
in which the part of peacemaker was taken up by "Father" 
Nathan C. Tenney, a pioneer of Woodruff and father of 
Ammon M. Tenney. He walked to the house and induced 
the Greers to surrender. The Sheriff, E. S. Stover, was 
summoned and was in the act of taking the men to jail when 
a shot was fired from a loft of the Barth house, where a 
number of Mexicans had established themselves. The 
bullet, possibly intended for a Greer, passed through the 
patriarch's head and neck, killing him instantly. The 
Greers were threatened with lynching, but were saved by 
the sheriff's determination. Their case was taken to Pres- 
cott and they escaped with light punishment. 

In the fall of 1881 the community knew a summary 
execution of two men and there were other deeds of dis- 
order, but in no wise did they affect the Mormon people, 
save that the lawless actions unsettled the usual peaceful 
conditions. 

Disputes Over Land Titles 

It is not within the province of this work to deal in mat- 
ters of controversial sort, especially with those that may 
have affected the religious features of the Mormon settle- 
ment but there may be mention of a few of the difficulties 
that came to the people of St. Johns in their earlier days. 

The general subject of land titles in the Mormon settle- 
ments that came within the scope of railroad land grants 
has been referred to on other pages. In St. Johns there was 
added need for defense of the squatter titles secured from 
Barth and the Mexicans, while there was assault on the 
validity of the occupation of the townsite. On several 
occasions, especially in March, 1884, there was attempted 
"jumping" of the choicest lots and there was near approach 
to bloodshed, prevented only by the pacific determination 
of Bishop Udall. The opposition upset a house that had 
been placed upon one lot and riotous conditions prevailed 

181 



for hours. Reinforcements quickly came from outlying 
Mormon settlements and firearms were carried generally 
in self defense. A number of lawsuits had to be defended, at 
large expense. There was friction with the Mexican element, 
which lived compactly in the old town, just east of the Mor- 
mon settlement, and clashes were known with a non-Mor- 
mon American element that had political connection with 
the Mexicans. 

About May 18, 1884, was discovered a plot to waylay 
and harm Apostle Brigham Young, Jr., and Francis M. 
Lyman, on the road to Ramah, but a strong escort fended 
off the danger. In the Stake chronicles is told that the 
brethren for a time united in regular fasting and prayer, 
seeking protection from their enemies. 

Irrigation Difficulties and Disaster 

St. Johns had its irrigation troubles, just as did every 
other Little Colorado settlement, only on a larger scale. 
In the beginning of the Mormon settlement, claim was made 
by the Mexicans upon the larger part of the river flow. 
Later there was compromise on a basis of three-fifths of 
the flow to the Mormons and two-fifths to the Mexicans, 
and in 1886 a degree of stability was secured by formation 
of the St. Johns Irrigation Company. A large dam, six 
miles south of St. Johns, created what was called the Slough 
reservoir. However, this dam was washed out in 1903, 
after years of drouth. Then were several years of dis- 
couragement and of loss of population. 

Thereafter came the idea of building a larger dam at a 
point twelve miles upstream, creating a reservoir to be 
drained through a deep cut. The plan was approved by the 
Church, which appropriated $5000 toward construction. 
There was formation of an irrigation company, to which 
was attached the name of Apostle F. M. Lyman, who had 
taken a personal interest in the improvement. A Colorado 
company provided one-half the necessary capital and the 
community the balance, and plans were made for the rec- 

182 



lamation of 15,000 acres upon higher land than had been 
irrigated before. After expenditure of $200,000, the dam 
was completed and the reservoir filled. Construction was 
faulty and in April, 1915, the dam was washed away, with 
attendant loss of eight lives and with large damage to 
flooded farms below. There was reorganization of the Ly- 
man Company and about $200,000 more was spent, with 
the desired end of water storage still unreached. Then 
came appeal to the State, which, through the State Loan 
Board, advanced large sums, taking as security mortgages 
on the land and dam. State investment in the Lyman 
project today approximates $800,000. The dam now is 
about finished and is claimed to be a structure that will 
stand all flood conditions. 

Meager Rations at Concho 

Concho was a Mexican village, at least a dozen years 
established, when the first Mormon settlers arrived. The 
name probably is from the Spanish word "concha," a 
shell. The settlement lies sixteen miles west of St. Johns. 
There were two sections, the older, in which Spanish was 
spoken and in which stock raising was the main occupation, 
and the Mormon settlement, a mile up the valley, in which 
there was effort to exist by agriculture on what was called 
a "putty" soil, with lack of sufficient water supply. The 
first of the Mormons to come was Bateman H. Wilhelm, 
who arrived in March, 1879. Soon thereafter Wm. J. Flake 
and Jesse J. Brady purchased the main part of the valley, 
the former paying for his half interest eight cows, one mule, 
a set of harness and a set of blacksmith tools. Before the 
end of the year, about thirty Saints were resident in the 
locality, some of the later arrivals being David Pulsipher, 
a Mormon Battalion member, Geo. H. Killian and Chas. 
G. Curtis. A townsite was roughly surveyed by brethren 
who laid their stakes by the North Star. September 26, 
1880, there was organization of a Church ward and there 
was assumed the name of Erastus, in honor of Erastus 

183 



Snow, who then was presiding at a Snowflake conference. 
This name was abandoned for that of Concho at a Church 
meeting held in St. Johns December 6, 1895. In later years, 
the Mormon residents, after building a reservoir and ex- 
pending much effort toward irrigation, generally have 
turned from agriculture to stock raising. 

Hunt is an agricultural settlement seventeen miles down 
the stream from St. Johns and one mile below a former 
Mexican settlement, near San Antonio, above which at 
some time subsequent to 1876 there settled an army officer 
named Hunt, who left the service at Fort Apache and whose 
descendants live in the county. The first Mormon settler 
was Thomas L. Greer in 1879, the old Greer ranch still 
maintained, a mile east of the present postoffice. Thereafter, 
the location was known as Greer Valley. In 1901, D. K. 
Udall became a resident and in that year his wife, appointed 
postmaster, was instrumental in naming the office and 
locality after her father, John Hunt, of the Mormon Bat- 
talion, who had a farm in the locality a year or so there- 
after, though not actually resident. 

The Meadows purchase, eight miles northwest of St. 
Johns, was occupied November 28, 1879. Among the set- 
tlers was the famous Indian missionary, Ira Hatch. 

Walnut Grove, twenty miles south of St. Johns, was 
settled early in 1882 by Jas. W. Wilkins and son, who bought 
Mexican claims. There was trouble over water priorities 
on the flow of the Little Colorado and the place now has 
small population, much of it Spanish-speaking. 

Springerville and Eagar 

Valle Redondo (Round Valley), 32 miles southeast of 
St. Johns, was the original name of the Springerville section. 
The first settler was Wm. R. Milligan, a Tennessean, who 
established a fort in the valley in 1871. The name was 
given in honor of Harry Springer, an Albuquerque mer- 
chant, who had a branch store in the valley. A. F. Banta 
states that the first town was across the Little Colorado 

184 



from the present townsite. Banta was the first postmaster, 
in Becker's store. 

The first Mormons on the ground, in February, 1879, 
were Jens Skousen, Peter J. Christofferson and Jas. L. 
Robertson, from St. Joseph. Soon thereafter came Wm. J. 
Flake, with more cows available for trade, giving forty of 
them to one York, for a planted grain field. Flake did not 
remain. In March came John T. Eager, who located four 
miles south of the present Springerville, in Water Canyon, 
and about the same time arrived Jacob Hamblin, the scout 
missionary. The latter took up residence in the Milligan 
fort and was appointed to preside over the Saints of the 
vicinity, but remained only till winter. 

In 1882, President Jesse N. Smith divided Round Valley 
into two wards, the upper to be known as Amity and the 
lower as Omer. In 1888 the people of these wards estab- 
lished a townsite, two miles above and south of Springer- 
ville, which was a Spanish-speaking community. The new 
town, at first known as Union, later was named Eagar, 
after the three Eagar brothers. 

A Land of Beaver and Bear 

Nutrioso, sixteen miles southeast of Springerville, is 
very near the dividing ridge of the Gila and Little Colo- 
rado watersheds. The name is a combination of nutria 
(Sp., otter) and oso (Sp., bear). "Nutria" was applied 
to the beaver, of which there were many. The first English- 
speaking settler was Jas. G. H. Colter, a lumberman from 
Wisconsin, who came to Round Valley in July, 1875, driving 
three wagons from Atchison, Kansas, losing a half year's 
provision of food to Navajos, as toll for crossing the reserva- 
tion. He grew barley for Fort Apache, getting $9 per 100 
pounds. In 1879, at Nutrioso, he sold his farm, for 300 head 
of cattle, to Wm. J. Flake. The Colter family for years had 
its home four miles above Springerville, at Colter, but the 
founder is in the Pioneers' Home at Prescott. One of the 
sons, Fred, was a candidate for Governor of Arizona in 1918. 

185 



Flake parcelled out the land to John W., Thos. J., Jas. 
M. and Hyrum B. Clark, John W., J. Y., and David J. 
Lee, Geo. W. Adair, Albert Minerly, Adam Greenwood, 
George Peck and W. W. Pace, the last a citizen of later 
prominence in the Gila Valley. The grain they raised the 
first season, 1700 bushels, chiefly barley, was sent as a 
"loan" to the Little Colorado settlers, who were very near 
starvation. 

In 1880 was built a fort, for there was fear of Apaches, 
who had been wiping out whole villages in New Mexico. 
There was concentration in Nutrioso of outlying settlers, 
but the Indians failed to give any direct trouble. A sawmill 
was started in 1881 and a schoolhouse was built the follow- 
ing year. A postoffice was established in 1883. 

In Lee's Valley, sixteen miles southwest of Springer- 
ville, is Greer, established by the Saints in 1879. The first 
to come were Peter J. Jensen, Lehi Smithson, James Hale, 
Heber Dalton and James Lee. In 1895, was added a saw- 
mill, built by Ellis W. Wiltbank and John M. Black. The 
name Greer was not applied till 1896. The postoffice dates 
from 1898. 
Altitudinous Agriculture at Alpine 

Alpine, in Bush Valley, near the southern edge of Apache 
County, four miles from the New Mexican line, has alti- 
tude approximating 8000 feet and has fame as probably 
being the highest locality in the United States where farm- 
ing is successfully prosecuted. Greer is about the same 
altitude. The principal crop is oats, produced at the rate 
of 1000 bushels for every adult male in the community. 
Crop failures are unknown, save when the grasshoppers 
come, as they have come in devouring clouds in a number 
of years. The location is a healthful and a beautiful one, 
in a valley surrounded by pines. Anderson Bush, not a 
Mormon, was the first settler, in 1876. March 27, 1879, 
came Fred Hamblin and Abraham Winsor, with their 
families. For years there were the wildest of frontier con- 

186 



ditions, between outlaws and Indians. The latter stole 
horses and cattle, but spared Mormon lives. This was 
the more notable in that many villages of Spanish-speaking 
people were raided by the redskins in New Mexico. Natural- 
ly, the settlers huddled together, for better defense. In 
1880 the log homes were moved into a square, forming a 
very effective sort of fort, nearly a mile southeast of the 
present townsite. Until that time the community had 
kept the name of Frisco, given because of the nearby head- 
waters of the San Francisco River. In 1881 most of the 
settlers moved over to Nutrioso for protection, but only 
for a few weeks. Alpine is the resting place of the bones of 
Jacob Hamblin, most noted of southwestern missionaries of 
his faith. 

In 1920 the County Agricultural Agent reported that 
only two farmers in the United States were growing the 
Moshannock potato, Frederick Hamblin at Alpine and 
Wallace H. Larson at Lakeside. 

In Western New Mexico 

Luna, in New Mexico, twelve miles east of Alpine, 
Arizona, was on the sheep range of the Luna brothers, who 
did not welcome the advent of the first Mormon families, 
those of the Swapp brothers and Lorenzo Watson, February 
28, 1883. Two prospectors had to be bought out, to clear 
a squatter's title. In the summer came "Parson" Geo. C. 
Williams, also a pioneer of Pleasanton. The first name 
adopted was Grant, in honor of Apostle Heber J. Grant, 
this later changed to Heber, as there was an older New 
Mexican settlement named Grant's. But even this con- 
flicted with Heber, Arizona (named after Heber C. Kim- 
ball), and so the original name endures, made official in 
1895. The first house was a log fort. A notable present 
resident is Frederick Hamblin, brother of Jacob and of the 
same frontier type. There is local pride over how he fought, 
single-handed, with a broken and unloaded rifle, the largest 
grizzly bear ever known in the surrounding Mogollon 

187 



Mountains. This was in November, 1888. The bear fought 
standing and was taller than Hamblin, a giant of a man, 
two inches over six feet in height. The rifle barrel was 
thrust down the bear's throat after the stock had been 
torn away, and upon the steel still are shown the marks of 
the brute's teeth. The same teeth were knocked out by 
the flailing blows of the desperate pioneer, who finally 
escaped when Bruin tired of the fight. Then Hamblin dis- 
covered himself badly hurt, one hand, especially, chewed 
by the bear. The animal later was killed by a neighbor and 
was identified by broken teeth and wounds. 

New Mexican Locations 

As before noted in this work, the Mormon Church 
sought little in New Mexico in the pioneering days, for 
little opportunity existed for settlement in the agricultural 
valleys. In western New Mexico, however, the country 
was more open and there was opportunity for missionary 
effort. Missionaries were in the Navajo and Zuni country 
in very early days and at the time of the great Mormon 
immigration of 1876 already there had been Indian con- 
versions. 

In that year, by direct assignment from President 
Brigham Young, then at Kanab, Lorenzo Hatch, later 
joined by John Maughn, settled in the Zuni country, at 
Fish Springs and San Lorenzo. Thereafter, on arrival of 
other missionaries, were locations at Savoia and Savoietta. 
It should be explained that these names, pronounced as 
they stand, are rough-hewn renditions of the Spanish words 
cebolla, "onion," and cebolleta, "little onion." Nathan 
C. Tenney and sons were among the colonists of 1878. 

In 1880 were Indian troubles that caused abandonment 
of the locations, but a new start was made in 1882, when a 
number of families came from the deserted Brigham City 
and Sunset. A new village was started, about 25 miles 
east of the Arizona line, at first known as Navajo, but later 
as Ramah. The public square was on the ruins of an ancient 

188 




FOUNDERS OF NORTHERN ARIZONA TOWNS 

I— Henry W. Miller 2— Win. C. Allen 

3— George Lake 4— Win. J. Flake 5— Charles Shumway 

6— Geo. H. Crosby, Sr. 7— J. V. Bushman 




A FEW MORE PIONEERS 



I — Almeda McClellan 
2— Mrs. A. S. Gibbons 
3 — Mary Richards 
4 — Joseph Foutz 
5 — Virginia Curtis 



6 — Benj. F. Johnson 
7 — Martha Curtis 
8 — Josephine Curtis 
9— Wm. N. Fife 
10— J. D. Fife 



Indian pueblo. Ira Hatch came in the fall. A large degree 
of missionary success appears to have been achieved among 
the Zuni, with 165 baptisms by Ammon M. Tenney, but at 
times there was friction with Mexican residents. The land 
on which the town stood later had to be bought from a 
cattle company, which had secured title from the Atlantic 
and Pacific Railroad Company. 

Bluewater, near the Santa Fe railroad, about thirty 
miles northeast of Ramah, is a Church outpost, established 
in 1894 by Ernst A. Trietjen and Friehoff G. Nielson from 
Ramah. For a while, from 1905, it was the home of C. R. 
Hakes, former president of the Maricopa Stake. Blue- 
water now is a prosperous agricultural settlement, with 
assured stored water supply and an excellent market avail- 
able for its products. 

Most southerly of the early New Mexican Church 
settlements was Pleasanton, on the San Francisco River, in 
Williams Valley, and sixty miles northwest of Silver City. 
The first settler was Geo. C. Williams, who came in 1879. 
At no time was there much population. Jacob Hamblin 
here spent the few last years of his life, dying August 31, 
1886. His family was the last to quit the locality, departing 
in 1889. 



189 



Chapter Seventeen 



Jamamic (ttonMtums 



Nature and Man Both Were Difficult 

To the struggle with the elements, to the difficulties 
that attended the breaking of a stubborn soil and to the 
agricultural utilization of a widely-varying water supply, 
to the burdens of drouth and flood and disease was added 
the intermittent hostility of stock interests that would have 
stopped all farming encroachment upon the open range. 
Concerning this phase of frontier life in Arizona, the follow- 
ing is from the pen of B. H. Roberts: 

The settlers in the St. Johns and Snowflake Stakes have met with 
great difficulties, first on account of the nature of the country itself, 
its variable periods of drouth, sometimes long-continued, when the 
parched earth yields little on the ranges for the stock, and makes the 
supply of water for irrigation purposes uncertain; then came flood 
periods, that time and again destroyed reservoir dams and washed out 
miles of irrigating canals. This was also the region of great cattle 
and sheep companies, occupying the public domain with their herds, 
sometimes by lease from the government, sometimes by mere usurpa- 
tion. The cattle and sheep companies and their employees waged 
fierce war upon each other for possession of the range, and both were 
opposed to the incoming of the settlers, as trespassers upon their 
preserves. The stock companies often infringed upon the settlers' 
rights, disturbed their peace, ran off their stock and resorted to occa- 
sional violence to discourage their settling in the country. Being 
"Mormons," the outlaw element of the community felt that they 
could trespass upon their rights with impunity, and the civil officers 
gave them none too warm a welcome into the Territory. The colo- 
nists, however, persisted in their efforts to form and maintain settle- 
ments in the face of all these discouraging circumstances. The fighting 
of the great cattle and sheep companies for possession of range privi- 
leges is now practically ended; the building of more substantial reser- 

190 



voirs is mastering the flood problems and the drouth periods at the 
same time, and the Saints, by the uprightness of their lives, their 
industry, perseverance, and enterprise, have proven their value as 
citizens in the commonwealth, until the prejudices of the past, which 
gave them a cold reception on their advent into Arizona, and slight 
courtesy from the older settlers, have given way to more enlightened 
policies of friendship; and today peace and confidence and respect are 
accorded to the Latter-day Saints of Arizona. 

A view of early-day range conditions along the Little 
Colorado lately was given by David E. Adams: 

When we came to Arizona in 1876, the hills and plains were 
covered with high grass and the country was not cut up with ravines 
and gullies as it is now. This has been brought about through over- 
s tocking the ranges. On the Little Colorado we could cut hay for miles 
and miles in every direction. The Aztec Cattle Company brought 
tens of thousands of cattle into the country, claimed every other sec- 
tion, overstocked the range and fed out all the grass. Then the water, 
not being held back, followed the cattle trails and cut the country up. 
Later, tens of thousands of cattle died because of drouth and lack of 
feed and disease. The river banks were covered with dead carcasses. 

Breaking the ground in Arizona was found a very serious 
task, even on the plains or where Nature had provided 
ample rains. Where industry created an oasis, to it ever 
swarmed the wild life of the surrounding hills or deserts. 
Prairie dogs, rabbits and coyotes took toll from the pioneer 
farmer, sometimes robbing him of the whole of the meager 
store of foodstuffs so necessary to maintain his family and 
to secure his residence. From 1884 to 1891 there were 
occasional visitations, in the Little Colorado Valley, of 
grasshoppers. For several years the settlement of Alpine 
was reported "devastated" and for a couple of years at 
Ramah the crops were so taken by grasshoppers that the 
men had to go elsewhere for work to secure sustenance for 
their families. St. Johns, Erastus and Luna all suffered 
severely at times from insect devastation. Winters were of 
unusual severity. 

Railroad Work Brought Bread 

Just as the Saints of Utah benefited by the construction 

191 



of the Central and Union Pacific railroads, so there was 
benefit in northeastern Arizona through the work of build- 
ing the Atlantic and Pacific railroad in 1880-82. John W. 
Young and Jesse N. Smith, joined by Ammon M. Tenney, 
in the spring of 1880 took a contract for grading five miles, 
simply to secure bread for the people of the Little Colorado 
Valley. During the previous winter there had been a large 
immigration from Utah, where, erroneously, it had been 
reported the Arizonans had raised good crops, so com- 
paratively little food was brought in. The limited crop 
of 1879 soon was consumed and the spring found the 
settlers almost starving. Lot Smith had loaned the people 
a quantity of wheat the previous season and much of the 
crop was due him. 

Young and Smith went as far as Pueblo, where they se- 
cured their contract and on their return made arrangements 
with merchants at Albuquerque for supplies. The first 
contract was for a section about 24 miles east of Fort 
Wingate, N. M., and to that point in July went all the men 
who could possibly leave home. The first company was 
from Snowflake, Jesse N. Smith taking about forty men. 
Soon thereafter, flour was sent back to the settlements and 
there was grateful relief. After a while, Smith drew out of 
the railroad work. Tenney returned to the railroad the 
following year to assist Young in filling a contract for the 
grading of 100 miles and the furnishing of 50,000 ties. 

The work on the railroad, while securing food in a 
critical period, still caused neglect of agriculture at home, 
where the few men remaining, together with the women 
and children, had to labor hard. 

Burden of a Railroad Land Grant 

The settlers on the Little Colorado appear to have had 
something more than their share of land trouble. Not only 
were hardships in their journeyings thither, with following 
privations in the breaking of the wilderness for the use of 
mankind, but there came an additional and serious blow 

192 



when even title to their hard-earned lands was disputed, 
apparently upon adequate legal ground. The best story at 
hand concerning this feature of early life on the Little 
Colorado is found in the Fish manuscript, told by one who 
was on the ground at the time and who participated in the 
final settlement: 

In March, 1872, the General Government gave a railroad land 
grant of every alternate section of land bordering the proposed Atlantic 
and Pacific railroad, extending out for forty miles each side of said road, 
through the public lands of the United States in the Territories of 
New Mexico and Arizona. The rule was that any lands settled upon, 
prior to the date of the grant, should be guaranteed to the settler, and 
the railroad be indemnified with as much land as was thus taken up 
on an additional grant of ten miles each side, called lieu lands, just 
outside the forty-mile limits of the main grant. In the fall of 1878 
and the winter of 1879, when the settlers arrived on the ground where 
Snowfiake and Taylor now stand, they supposed the railroad grant 
would doubtless lapse, as there was then no indication that the road 
would be built. They bought the Stinson ranch, paying an enor- 
mous price for it. The Government had not then surveyed the land 
and the government sections were not then open for entry at the land 
office. But early in 1880 the railroad company began building its 
road west from Albuquerque. In May of said year, Jesse N. Smith, 
on behalf of the settlers of Snowfiake, applied to the railroad company 
for the railroad lands they occupied, and received the assurance that 
they, the settlers, should have the first right to their land, and the first 
refusal thereof, and that the price would not be raised on account 
of their improvements. The railroad company even furnished blank 
applications, which a number of the settlers made out and filed with the 
company, which were afterwards ignored. About this time capitalists 
and moneyed men, many of them foreigners, began turning their at- 
tention to cattle raising in our Territory. Among others, a company 
known as the Aztec Land and Cattle Company was organized, com- 
posed mostly of capitalists from the east. This company bought a 
very large block of the railroad lands, including Snowfiake and Taylor, 
and all in that vicinity. The new owners immediately served notice 
on the settlers that they must buy or lease the railroad portion, the odd- 
numbered sections of the land they occupied. The settlers appointed 
Jesse N. Smith and Joseph Fish a committee to represent their claims, 
but no definite understanding could be obtained from the local officers 
of the company, all such business being referred to the central office 
in New York City. The railroad company not having sold the land 

193 



at Woodruff, it served a similar notice on the settlers there, and it 
seemed that they would all be compelled to abandon their improve- 
ments and move away. In this emergency, the settlers, who were of 
the Mormon faith, applied to the Presidency of the Church for relief . 
An estimate of the value of the improvements of the settlers was 
made and the amount was found to so far exceed the probable cost of 
the land that the Presidency of the Church appropriated $500 for the 
expenses and sent Brigham Young, Jr., and Jesse N. Smith east to 
negotiate a purchase. They started on their mission in the latter 
part of February, 1889. They finally, on April 2, 1889, closed a 
contract in New York City for seven full sections of land at $4.50 
per acre, one-fifth of the price being paid down, and Jesse N. Smith 
giving his note for the remainder, to run four years at 6 per cent 
interest; one-fourth the amount to be paid at the end of each year, 
and the interest to be added and paid every half year. 

While in New York they also bargained with J. A. Williamson, 
the railroad land commissioner, for one section of land at Woodruff 
at $8 per acre, one-half at the expiration of each year, with 6 per cent 
interest to be added each half year. Payment was made for the last 
purchase in Albuquerque, the contract being closed May 3, 1889. 
The Mormon Church furnished much of that money for these pur- 
chases, receiving back a small portion, as individuals were able to 
pay the same, and appropriating the remainder for the benefit of 
schools and reservoirs in the vicinity of said towns. 

Little Trouble With Indians 

It is notable that the settlers on the Little Colorado had 
very little actual trouble with the Indians, with the Navajo 
of the north or the Apache of the south. The Indians were 
frequent visitors to the settlements and were treated with 
usual Mormon hospitality. There were no depredations 
upon the livestock, and when the peace of the settlements 
was disturbed it was by the white man and not by the red 
brother. During the time of the building of the Atlantic 
and Pacific railroad, there was an Indian scare. This 
originated in the outbreak of Nockedaklinny, a medicine 
man of the Coyoteros, who, August 30, 1881, was killed in 
the Cibicu country, a day's travel from Fort Apache, by 
troops led by Col. E. A. Carr, Fifth Cavalry. Two days 
later the Indians attacked Camp Apache itself, after killing 
eight men on the road, and the post probably was saved 



194 



from capture by the hurried return of its commander, with 
his troops. He left behind seven of his men, having been 
treacherously fired upon by 23 Indian scouts, whom he 
had taken with him. A number of murders were committed 
by the Indians in northern Tonto Basin, but the insurrec- 
tion extended no farther northward than Camp Apache. 
Still it created great uneasiness within the comparatively 
unprotected settlements of the river valley. June 1, 1882, 
was the killing of Nathan B. Robinson, this the only 
Indian murder of a Mormon in this section. 

Church Administrative Features 

While this work in no wise seeks to carry through any 
records of Church authority, it happens that the leader in 
each of the southwestern migrations and settlements was 
a man appointed for that purpose by the Church Presi- 
dency and the greater number of the settlers came by 
direct Church "call." In the case of the Little Colorado 
settlements, this "call" was not released till January, 1900, 
in a letter of President Lorenzo Snow, borne to St. Johns 
by Apostle (now President) Heber J. Grant. The several 
organizations of the northeastern districts are set forth, 
with official exactness, by Historian Roberts, as follows: 

On January 27, 1878, the Latter-day Saints who had settled on the 
Little Colorado, in Navajo (then Yavapai) County, under the leader- 
ship of Major Lot Smith, by that time grouped into four settlements, 
were organized into a Stake of Zion, with Lot Smith as president and 
Jacob Hamblin and Lorenzo H. Hatch as counselors. Three of the 
settlements were organized into wards, a bishop being appointed in 
each; the fourth was made a" branch" with a presiding elder. This 
was the first stake organization effected in Arizona. Before the 
expiration of the year, viz., 27th December, President John Taylor 
directed that the settlements forming further up the Little Colorado 
in Apache County, be organized into a Stake. A line running south- 
ward from Berardo's (now Holbrook, on the Santa Fe railroad), was 
to be the dividing line between the two Stakes thus proposed. The 
western division was to be the Little Colorado Stake, and the eastern 
division, Eastern Arizona Stake of Zion. The division of the Stakes 
on these lines was not carried out at that time; the Little Colorado 



195 



Stake, constituted of the wards already mentioned at its organization, 
continued for several years, while the Eastern Arizona Stake had 
within its jurisdiction, for a number of years, the settlements on 
Silver Creek, in the southeast corner of Navajo County, and also the 
settlement of St. Johns near the headwaters of the Little Colorado, 
and other minor settlements in Apache County. In 1887, however, 
the directions of President Taylor, with reference to the division of 
these settlements into two Stakes, were carried into effect. The name 
of the Eastern Arizona Stake, however, was changed at the time of 
the reorganization, July 23, 1887, to St. Johns Stake, David K. Udall, 
bishop of St. Johns, being chosen President, with Elijah Freeman and 
Wm. H. Gibbons as counselors. Later, viz., December 18, the settle- 
ments on the west side of the line running south from Holbrook, on 
upper Silver Creek, Woodruff Ward, and the fragments of settlements 
formerly constituting the Little Colorado Stake, by now discontinued, 
were organized under the name of the Snownake Stake of Zion, Jesse 
N. Smith, formerly of the Eastern Arizona Stake, being made President. 

Here there may be notation that David K. Udall, still 
president at St. Johns, is one of the very oldest in seniority 
in such office within the Church. At Snowflake today the 
president is Samuel F. Smith, son of Jesse N. Smith, who 
died in his home town June 5, 1906. 



196 




STAKE PRESIDENTS 

I — Lot Smith, Little Colorado 2— Jesse N. Smith, E. Ariz, and Snowflake 

3 — Samuel F. Smith, Snowflake 4 — David K. Udnll, St. Johns 

5 — Christopher Layton, St. Joseph 6 — Andrew Kimball, St. Joseph 




SNOWFLAKE ACADEMY 
Destroyed by Fire Thanksgiving Day, 1910 




PRESENT SNOWFLAKE ACADEMY 
Dedicated Thanksgiving Day, 1913— Cost $35,000 



Chapter Eighteen 



Dan W. Jones' Great Exploring Trip 

The honor of leading Mormon pioneering in south- 
central Arizona lies with Daniel W. Jones, a sturdy charac- 
ter, strong in the faith. He had been in the Mexican war, 
in 1847, as a Missouri volunteer, and had remained in Mex- 
ico till 1850. In the latter year he started for California, 
from Santa Fe, and, in the Provo country of Utah, em- 
braced Mormonism within a settlement that had treated 
him kindly after he had accidentally wounded himself. 
About that time he dedicated himself to life work among 
the Indians, the Lamanites of the Book of Mormon. He 
appeared to be successful thereafter in gaining the confi- 
dence of the red men and in carrying out the policy so 
literally expressed by Brigham Young, "It is cheaper to 
feed the Indians than to fight them." Speaking Spanish, he 
helped in translation by Meliton G. Trejo, of a part of the 
Book of Mormon. 

The printing done, a missionary party was started south- 
ward September 10, 1875, from Nephi, Utah, its members 
being, besides Jones, J. Z. Stewart, Helaman Pratt, Wiley 
C. Jones, a son of the leader, R. H. Smith, Ammon M. 
Tenney and A. W. Ivins. The journey was on horseback, 
by way of Lee's Ferry and the Hopi Indian villages and 
thence to the southwest. At Pine Springs, in the Mogollons, 
were met Dr. J. W. Wharton and W. F. McNulty, who 
told them something of Phoenix and the Salt River Valley 
and who advised settlement in the upper valley. 

Jones' personal story of his impressions of the future 

197 



metropolis of the State and of the Salt River Valley pos- 
sibly should be given in his own language : 

We were much surprised on entering Salt River Valley. We had 
traveled through deserts and mountains (with the exception of the 
Little Colorado Valley, a place which we did not particularly admire) 
for a long ways. Now there opened before us a sight truly lovely. 
A fertile looking soil and miles of level plain. In the distance the 
green cotton wood trees; and, what made the country look more real, 
was the thrifty little settlement of Phoenix, with its streets planted 
with shade trees for miles. Strange as it may seem, at the time we 
started, in September, 1875, the valley of Salt River was not known 
eyen to Brigham Young. 

Our animals were beginning to fail, as they had lived on grass 
since leaving Kanab. We bought corn at 4 cents a pound and com- 
menced feeding them a little. Although Salt River Valley is naturally 
fertile, owing to the dryness of the climate, there is no grass except a 
little coarse stuff called "sacaton." 

We camped on the north side of the river. On making inquiry, 
we learned that Tempe, or Hayden's Mill, seven miles further up the 
river, would be a better place to stop for a few days than Phoenix. 
C. T. Hayden, being one of the oldest and most enterprising settlers 
of the country, had built a grist mill, started ranches, opened a store, 
blacksmith shop, wagon shop, etc. 

On arriving at Hayden's place, we found the owner an agreeable, 
intelligent gentleman, who was much interested in the settlement and 
development of the country, he being a pioneer in reality, having 
been for many years in the west, and could sympathize with the 
Mormon people in settling the deserts. He gave us much true and 
useful information about the country and natives. Here we traded 
off some of our pack mules and surplus provisions. We had already 
traded for a light spring wagon, finding that the country before 
could be traveled with wagons. ; We remained here a few days, camp- 
ing at the ranch of Mr. Winchester Miller. His barley was up several 
inches high, but he allowed us to turn our animals into his fields and 
treated us in a kind, hospitable manner. The friendly acquaintance 
made at this time has always been kept up. Mr. Miller was an energetic 
man, and manifested a great desire to have the Mormons come there 
and settle. He had already noticed the place where the Jonesville 
ditch is now located. He told me about it, saying it was the best 
ditch site on the river. What he said has proved true. We wrote 
to President Young, describing the country. 

The party tried some proselyting among the Pimas and 

198 



Papagos. At Tucson they met Governor Safford who offered 
welcome to Mormon colonists. Sonora was in the throes of 
revolution, so they passed on to El Paso, on the way talk- 
ing to a camp of Apaches, given permission by the agent, 
Thos. T. Jeffords. The San Pedro Valley was looked over 
for possible settlement. 

In January, 1876, the party passed the international 
line at Paso del Norte. Jones claimed this to have been the 
first missionary expedition that ever entered Mexico. The 
party found it a good land and started back in May with 
a rather favorable impression of the country for future 
settlement. Return was by way of Bowie, Camp Grant and 
the Little Colorado. At Allen's Camp were met Daniel 
H. Wells, Brigham Young, Jr., and Erastus Snow, with 
whom return to Utah was made. President Young was met 
late in June, at Kanab, there expressing appreciation of the 
determination that had brought Jones through every diffi- 
culty in the ten months of journeying. 

The Pratt-Stewart-Trejo Expedition 

Of notable interest is the fact that certain members of 
the Jones expedition were so deeply interested in what they 
saw that they made request for immediate return. So, 
October 18, 1876, there started southward, from Salt Lake, 
at the direction of the Church Presidency, another expedi- 
tion, in character missionary, rather than for exploration. 
It embraced Helaman Pratt, Jas. Z. Stewart, Isaac J. 
Stewart, Louis Garff and George Terry. Meliton G. Trejo 
joined at Richfield. Phoenix was reached December 23, 
there being found several families of the Church who had 
come the previous year. The day the missionaries arrived 
happened to be exactly thirty years after the date on which 
the Mormon Battalion passed the Pima villages on the 
Gila River, just south of Phoenix. The members of the 
party worked all over southern Arizona, especially among 
the Mexicans and Indians. 

In February of 1877 headquarters were at Tubac. In 

199 



April, after a Mexican trip, a letter was received from 
President Brigham Young asking that Sonora be explored 
as a country for possible settlement. Later in May the 
Stewarts started eastward, in continuing danger from hos- 
tile Apaches after they had crossed the San Pedro. On the 
road, while the missionaries were passing, a mail rider was 
killed. At Camp Bowie the Apaches were found beleaguer- 
ing the post. East of that point the Stewarts had to replace 
a wagon tire just as they were passing a point of Apache 
ambush. Return to Utah was in December, 1877. It 
was concluded that border settlements better had wait on 
Indian pacification. 

Trejo was a remarkable character. He was of aristo- 
cratic Castilian birth and had been an officer in the Spanish 
army in the Philippines. It would appear that he became 
interested in the Mormon doctrine, which, in some manner, 
had reached that far around the earth, and that he resigned 
his commission and straightway went to Utah. There his 
knowledge of Spanish, backed by good general schooling, 
made him valuable as a translator, though his English was 
learned in the Jones family. His later work was in Arizona 
and Mexico, as a missionary, his home in 1878 moved to 
Saint David on the San Pedro, where he died a few years 
ago. He was a fluent writer and sent many interesting 
letters to the Deseret News. In January, 1878, he wrote 
from Hayden's Ferry: 

We are now between the Salt and Gila Rivers, on a very extensive 
rich plain, covered with trees and small brush, watered in some places 
by means of canals from the two rivers named. The river dams 
and canals are very easy made, on account of the solid bottoms of the 
rivers and pure farming clay of the plain. In fact, the people who are 
now living here find it very easy to get good farms in one or two years 
without much hard labor. They unite as we do in making canals. 
The climate is one of the most delightful in the world and until a few 
years ago, one of the most healthy too, but lately the people have 
been troubled with fevers, which nobody seems to know the cause. 
The water is good and the sky is clear, there being no stagnant pools; 
the ground is dry and the winds blow freely in every direction. I 

200 



don't believe these fevers are naturally in the country, but are caused 
by the people not taking proper care of themselves. 

An interesting letter has been found, dated at Tubac, 
March 4, 1877, addressed to President Brigham Young and 
written by Elder Jas. Z. Stewart. It told that the country 
is "better than the north part of the Territory, from the 
fact that the land is as good, if not better, the water is good 
and regular and the climate more pleasant." He referred 
to the ruins of whole towns, to the rich mines, to the 
abundance of game and to the drawback of Apache raids. 
He described the southern Arizona Mexicans as "all very 
poor, having no cows, horses, houses nor lands and but 
very little to live on. Though they live for days on parched 
corn, they are willing to divide their last meal with a 
stranger. They are industrious, but ignorant, it being 
seldom you can find one who can write." 

Start of the Lehi Community 

The reports from the south gave ample encouragement 
to expansion ideas within the First Presidency. So, after 
due deliberation, was organized another Jones expedition 
for the settlement of the land. 

As letters of the time are read and instructions found, 
it becomes the more evident that President Brigham Young 
and his counselors had in view a great plan of occupation 
of the intermountain valleys, reaching down into Mexico, 
or beyond. It was a time when the Church was growing 
very rapidly and when new lands were needed for converts 
who were streaming in from Europe or from the eastern 
States. Logically, the expansion would be southward, 
though there was disadvantage of very serious sort in the 
breaking of continuity of settlement by the Grand Canyon 
of the Colorado River and by the deserts that had to be 
passed to reach the feitile valleys of the southland. 

When the second Jones party started, according to an 
official account, "President Young sat with a large map of 
America before him, while saying that the company of mis- 

201 



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so 






T 



l*UOllCJV<-t*Jtt 



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:::: : ::^:««ffKg«e.-.-.-."7UCf/A/'.'"JX""-"v::: ^ 






ROAD 



Wafer Ditch 



GROUND PLAN OF LEHI 



202 



sionaries called were to push ahead as far as possible toward 
the Yaqui country in Mexico, which would finally be the 
objective point; but if they could not reach that country 
they might locate on the San Pedro or Salt River in south- 
ern Arizona." 

In either case there would be a station on the road, or 
a stepping stone to those who later would go on to the far 
south. President Young also said to the brethren on that 
occasion that if they would do what was right and be 
guided by the spirit of inspiration, they would know the 
country as they passed through, and would know where to 
locate, the same as did the Pioneers when they first reached 
the valley of the Great Salt Lake. 

The pioneering expedition was organized in St. George, 
in southwestern Utah. In the party were 83 individuals, 
the family heads being Jones, Philemon C. Merrill, Dudley 
J. Merrill, Thomas Merrill, Adelbert Merrill, Henry C. 
Rogers, George Steele, Thomas Biggs, Ross R. Rogers, 
John D. Brady, Joseph McRae, Isaac Turley and Austin 
O. Williams. 

Start was made January 17, 1877. The way was through 
Beaver Dams to the mouth of the Virgin. That profiteer- 
ing was not unknown in those early days is shown by the 
fact that the expedition, at Stone's Ferry on the Colorado, 
had to pay ferriage of $10 per wagon. Much of this cost 
was borne by Joseph McRae, who turned over one wagon, 
some horses and a little money to the ferryman. 

To the southward was found a road, well-traveled in 
those days, that led from the Fort Mohave ferry to Pres- 
cott. But Prescott, then the capital, was left to one side and 
a direct route was taken from Chino Valley, through Peeples 
Valley and Wickenburg, to Phoenix. At the latter point 
there was agreement that the travelers had about reached 
the limit of their resources and of the strength of their 
horses. There was remembrance of the valley section of 
which Winchester Miller had told. So determination to 



203 



stop was reached in a council of the leaders. There was fear, 
apparently well grounded, that claim jumpers would cause 
trouble if the destination of the party became known. On 
this account, departure from Phoenix was not by way of 
Hayden's Ferry, but by the McDowell road, as far as 
Maryville, an abandoned military subpost and station on 
Salt River, at the Maricopa Wells-McDowell road ford. 
Here the river was crossed, and the weary immigrants were 
at their journey's end. The day was March 6, 1877. The 
camp was at the site of the canal head, the settlement later 
placed a few miles below. 

Henry C. Rogers took charge of the construction of the 
ditch, started the day after arrival. Ross R. Rogers was the 
engineer. His only instruments were a straight edge and a 
spirit level. This still is known as the Utah ditch. Its first 
cost was $4500. There was the planting of a nursery by 
George Steele, the trees kept alive by hauling water to 
them. Jones wrote to Salt Lake that Salt River was at 
least four times as big as the Provo and had to be tapped 
through deep cuts, as the channel was "too expensive to 
dam." 

Sunday, May 20, 1877, Jones baptized his first Indians 
in Salt River, four of the "Lamanites" being immersed. 
In July, 1877, Fort Utah was located as a place of protec- 
tion. It was built upon the cross line of four quarter- 
sections of land, enclosed with an adobe wall, and with a 
well, on the inside, 25 feet deep. The families lived there 
while the men went out to work. 

President Young soon wrote Jones in a vein indicating 
that the stop on Salt River was considered merely a camp 
on the way still farther southward, saying: 

We should also like to know what your intentions are with regard 
to settling the region for which you originally started. We do not 
deem it prudent for you to break up your present location, but, pos- 
sibly next fall, you will find it consistent to continue your journey 
with a portion of those who are now with you, while others will come 
and occupy the places vacated by you. We do not, however, wish 

204 




THE FIRST EXPEDITION INTO MEXICO 



Wiley C. Jones 
Heleman Pratt 



D. W. Jones 



A. W. Ivins 

Jas. Z. Stewait 




THE SECOND PARTY SENT TO MEXICO 

1— Jas. Z. Stewart 2— Meliton G. Trejo 

3 — George Terry 4 — Isaac J. Stewart 5 — Heleman Pratt 



you to get the idea from the above remarks that we desire to hurry 
you away from where you are now, or to enforce a settlement in the 
district to which you refer, until it is safe to do so and free from the 
dangers of Indian difficulties; but we regard it as one of the spots 
where the Saints will, sooner or later, gather to build up Zion, and 
we feel the sooner the better. 

Transformation Wrought at Camp Utah 

The newcomers found pioneering conditions very harsh 
indeed, for it is a full man's task to clear away mesquite and 
brush and to dig a deep canal. Joseph A. McRae made 
special reference to the heat, to which the Utah settlers 
were unaccustomed. He wrote, "as summer advanced, I 
often saturated my clothing with water before starting to 
hoe a row of corn forty rods long, and before reaching the 
end my clothes were entirely dry." But there was raised 
an abundance of corn, sugar cane, melons and vegetables, 
and, in spite of the heat, the health of the people was 
excellent. 

Concerning the early Jones ville, a conespondent of the 
Prescott Miner wrote: 

The work done by these people is simply astounding, and the 
alacrity and vim with which they go at it is decidedly in favor of co- 
operation or communism. Irrespective of capital invested, all share 
equally in the returns. The main canal is two and a half miles long, 
eight feet deep, and eight feet wide. Two miles of small ditch are 
completed and four more are required. Their diagram of the settle- 
ment, as it is to be, represents a mile square enclosed by an adobe 
wall about seven feet high. In the center is a square, or plaza, around 
which are buildings fronting outward. The middle of the plaza 
represents the back yards, in which eleven families, or eighty-five 
persons are to commingle. They are intelligent, and all Americans. 

The settlers, with their missionary turn of mind, were 
pleased to find the Indians of southern Arizona friendly and 
even inclined to be helpful. One chief offered to loan the 
settlers seed corn and wheat. The Indians gathered around 
to listen to whatever discourse the Saints should offer, the 
latter, at the same time energetically wielding shovels on 
a canal that "simply had" to be built in a given time. 

205 



An appreciated feature was that Salt River abounded 
in fish, supplementing very acceptably the plain diet on 
which the pioneers had been subsisting. Possibly it was as 
well that the Saints had rules against the use of table 
luxuries. One pioneer of the Lehi settlement told how his 
family had lived for weeks almost entirely upon wheat, 
which had been ground in a coffee mill and then cooked 
into mush, to be eaten with milk. "We thought ourselves 
mighty fortunate to have the milk," he said. 

Soon after the settlement of Camp Utah, Jones' 
methods of administration excited keen opposition among 
the brethren. There was special objection to his plan that 
the settlement should receive Indians on a footing of 
equality, this being defended as a method that assuredly 
would tend toward the conversion of the Lamanites speedily 
and effectively. 

Jones was fair in his statement of the matter, and hence 
special interest attaches to his own story of the earliest days 
of the settlement: 

We commenced on the ditch March 7, 1877. All hands worked 
with a will. Part of the company moved down on to lands located 
for settlements. Most of the able-bodied men formed a working camp 
near the head of the ditch, where a deep cut had to be made. 

We hired considerable help when we could procure it, for such 
pay as we could command, as scrub ponies, "Hayden scrip," etc. Among 
those employed were a number of Indians, Pimas, Maricopas, Paga- 
gos, Yumas, Yaquis and one or two Apache-Mohaves. The most 
of them were good workers. 

Some of the Indians expressed a desire to come and settle with 
us. This was the most interesting part of the mission to me, and 
I naturally supposed that all the company felt the same spirit, but 
I soon found my mistake, for, on making this desire of the Indians 
known to the company, many objected, some saying that they did not 
want their families brought into association with these dirty Indians. 
So little interest was manifested by the company that I made the 
mistake of jumping at the conclusion that I would have to go ahead 
whether I was backed up or not. I learned afterward that if I had 
been more patient and faithful, I would have had more help, but 
at the time I acted according to the best light I had and determined 
to stick to the Indians. 

206 



This spirit manifested to the company showing a preference to 
the natives, naturally created a prejudice against me. Soon dis- 
satisfaction commenced to show. The result was that most of the 
company left and went on to the San Pedro, in southern Arizona, led 
by P. C. Merrill. After this move, there being but four families left, 
and one of these soon leaving, our little colony was quite weak. 

Departure of the Merrill Party 

It was a sad blow to the settlement when the Merrill 
company departed, in August, 1877, leaving only the Jones, 
Biggs, Rogers and Turley families. Nearly all the teams 
available went with the Merrills, thus delaying comple- 
tion of the canal, which at that time had reached the 
settlement. The fort also was left in an incomplete state. 
The few left behind mainly were employed by Chas. T. 
Hayden of Tempe, who was described as, "so very kind to 
the brethren and their families, giving them work and 
furnishing them with means in advance, on credit, so that 
they might subsist." 

A very interesting item in a letter written by Jones is: 

This country is so productive and easy of cultivation, but, not- 
withstanding, this colony was too poor at seed time to buy a common 
plow. From present prospects, we hope to be able to save up and have 
enough for seed and plow the coming season. You speak of the ancient 
Egyptians using a crooked stick for plowing; if you will call down 
here soon, we can show you some 300 acres of good wheat patch plowed 
by our colony with a crooked stick plow, without so much as a ram's 
horn point. 

Probably Jones included a part of the holdings of his 
Indian wards in this demonstration of primeval agriculture. 
For years following the advent of the white man, the Pima 
Indians habitually plowed by means of a crooked mesquite 
stick, connected by a rope to a pole, tied firmly across the 
horns of a couple of oxen. 

Whatever the dissension between Jones and the other 
pioneers, he appeared at all times to have been popular with 
his Indian wards. This is evidenced by the fact that to the 
north of Lehi is a thriving Pima-Papago Mormon settle- 
ment, known as Papago ward. Dan P. Jones followed his 

207 



father in its administration. A few years ago it had a 
population of 590 Indians, mainly Pimas, and of four white 
families, headed by Geo. F. Tiffany, with an Indian coun- 
selor, Incarnacion Valenzuela. This counselor has been 
described by Historian Jenson as "one of the most intelli- 
gent Indians I have ever met. He speaks Spanish fluently, 
as well as the Papago and Pima language; he also under- 
stands English, but does not like to speak it." Henry C. 
Rogers also was a successful Indian missionary. Tiffany's 
son now is in charge of the Lebi Indians. 

Besides the Indians directly belonging to the ward, is 
a record of 1500 baptized Mormon Indians, mainly Papago, 
in the desert region to the southward, as far as the Mexican 
line. 

Sunday schools and meetings are held in the Papago 
ward schoolhouse, built a few years ago. The Indians farm 
and raise stock; some of them live in good houses and all 
are learning the habits and ways of their neighbors, who 
have been their friends from the beginning. 

Jones was charged by the people of Phoenix and Tempe 
with protection of Indians who had trespassed upon crops. 
He was warned by the Indian agent at Sacaton that he must 
cease his proselyting, a warning he calmly ignored. He 
seemed to have had assistance generally from the military 
authorities at Camp McDowell, about fifteen miles north- 
ward, for a time commanded by Capt. Adna R. Chaffee, 
Sixth Cavalry. Trouble was known with Pima Indians, 
who lived across the river, where they had been placed a 
few years before by Tempe settlers, as a possible buffer 
against Apache raids. This reservation's extension cost Lehi 
several sections of land. 

Altogether, Jones' life in the Salt River Valley was not 
an easy one. Finally he joined a community in northern 
Tonto Basin, where his wife and youngest child were killed 
by accident. After that he moved to Tempe. Thereafter 
he went to Mexico, where he had mining experience. In 

208 



the winter of 1884, he helped Erastus Snow and Samuel H. 
Hill to cross the border at El Paso. His latter days mainly 
were spent in Utah and California. Early in 1915 he re- 
turned to Arizona. His death occurred April 20 of that 
year, at the Mesa home of a son. His life work is well set 
out in a book written by himself and published in 1890. 
The descendants of the sturdy old pioneer are many in 
southern Arizona and numbers of them have occupied 
responsible office with credit. A son, Dan. P. Jones of Mesa, 
is a member of the current Legislature. Other sons and 
grandsons have been prominent especially in educational 
work. 

Lehi's Later Development 

Lehi now is a thriving settlement in bottom lands along 
Salt River, where growth necessarily is limited. Its school- 
house is about three miles north of Mesa, which has made 
by far the greater growth. First known as Camp Utah, or 
Utahville, for years it was called Jonesville, but finally the 
postoffice name of Lehi, suggested by Apostle Brigham 
Young, Jr., has firmly attached. 

The first Mormon marriage in the Salt River Valley was 
at Lehi, that of Daniel P. Jones and Mary E. Merrill, 
August 26, 1877. The first birth was of their son. The first 
permanent separate house, of adobe, at Lehi, was built by 
Thomas Biggs, in the spring of 1878. There was a public 
school as early as 1878, taught by Miss Zula Pomeroy. In 
1880 an adobe schoolhouse was built at a cost of $142, the 
ground donated by Henry C. Rogers, with David Kimball 
its main supporter. The following year was built a much 
better schoolhouse. 

The settlement has a townsite of six blocks, each 26 
rods square, with streets four rods wide, surveyed in 
November, 1880, by Henry C. Rogers. 

Lehi was badly damaged February 19, 1891, when Salt 
River reached a height never known before or since. The 
stream flooded the lower parts of Phoenix and inundated a 

209 



large part of the farming land at Lehi. A second flood, a 
few days later, was three feet higher than the first. Five 
Lehi Indians were drowned and several hundred of them 
lost their possessions. 



210 



Chapter Nineteen 



Wc\t |3bmitttg of ffiem 

Transformation of a Desert Plain 

Though by no means with exclusive population of the 
faith, Mesa, sixteen miles east of Phoenix and in the Salt 
River Valley, today includes the largest organization of the 
Saints within Arizona and is the center of one of the most 
prosperous Stakes of the Church. It is beautifully located 
on a broad tableland, from which its Spanish name is 
derived, and is the center of one of the richest of farming 
communities. In general, the soil is of the best, without 
alkali, and its products cover almost anything that can be 
grown in the temperate or semi-tropic zones. 

At all times since its settlement, Mesa has prospered, 
but its prosperity has been especially notable since the 
development, a few years ago, of the Pima long-staple 
cotton. Nearly every landowner, and Mesa is a settlement 
of landowners, has prospered through this industry, though 
it has been affected by the post-war depression. The region 
is one of comfortable, spacious homes and of well-tilled 
farms, with less acreage to each holding than known else- 
where in the valley. 

Mesa is second only to Phoenix in size and importance 
within Maricopa County. There are fine business blocks 
and all evidences of mercantile activity. The farming area 
is being extended immensely. The community was one of 
the first to enter the association that secured storage of 
water at Roosevelt. Thereafter, to the southward came 
extension of the farming area by means of pumping, this 
continuing nearly to the Gila River, out upon the Pima 

211 



reservation. Now there is further extension eastward, and 
the great plain that stretches as far as Florence is being 
settled by population very generally tributary to Mesa. 
It would be idle to speculate upon the future of the city, 
but its tributary farming country is fully as great as that 
which surrounds Phoenix. 

Mesa was founded by Latter-day Saints from Bear Lake 
County, Idaho, and Salt Lake County, Utah. The former 
left Paris, Idaho, September 14, 1877, were joined at Salt 
Lake City by the others and traveled the entire distance 
by wagon, using the Lee's Ferry route, and coming over 
the forested country to Camp Verde. 

The immigrants included, with their families, Chas. I. 
Robson, Charles Crismon (of the San Bernardino colony) 
of Salt Lake, Geo. W. Sirrine (of the Brooklyn ship party), 
Francis M. Pomeroy (a '47 pioneer), John H. Pomeroy, 
Warren L. Sirrine, Elijah Pomeroy, Parley P, Sirrine, all 
of Paris, Idaho, Wm. M. Newell, Wm. M. Schwartz, Job 
H. Smith, Jesse D. Hobson and J. H. Blair of Salt Lake. 
Altogether were 83 individuals. 

The valley of the Verde proved a pleasant one, after 
the cold and hardship known on the plateau, though Christ- 
mas was spent in a snowstorm. Both humanity and the 
horses needed rest. So camp was made at Beaver Head, a 
few miles from the river, while a scouting party went far- 
ther to spy out the land. This party, which went by wagon, 
included Robson, F. M. Pomeroy, Charles Crismon and 
G. W. Sirrine. 

The scouts, within a few days, had covered about 125 
miles that lay between Beaver Head and Camp Utah. 
Their New Year dinner was taken with Jones, who extended 
them all welcome. It was proposed that the newcomers 
settle upon land adjoining that of the first party, but there 
was a likelihood of crowding in the relatively narrow river 
valley, and there were attractive possibilities lying along 
the remains of an ancient canal shown them by Jones. 



212 




ORIGINAL LEHI LOCATORS 



1 — Daniel W. Jones 
3 — Thomas Biggs 



2 — Philemon C. Merrill 
4 — Henry C. Rogers 



Legal appropriation of the head of this old water way was 
made and Crismon was left behind, with a couple of the 
Camp Utah men as helpers, to start work on the new 
irrigation project. Incidentally, Crismon made location of 
land near the heading and thus separated his interests from 
those of the main party. Later, he started a water-power 
grist mill on the Grand canal, east of Phoenix. He had 
rights to a large share in the canal, as well as to lands on 
the mesa. These he later sold. 

Robson, Pomeroy and Sirrine returned to the Verde 
Valley, to pilot the rested travelers southward. The journey 
was by way of the rocky Black Canyon road, with difficulty 
encountered in descending the steep Arastra Creek pass. 
Fording Salt River at Hayden's Ferry, Camp Utah was 
reached February 14, 1878. The journey had been a slow 
one, for cattle had to be driven. 

A few days were spent at Camp Utah and then the new 
arrivals moved upstream five miles, where tents were 
pitched on a pleasant flat, a couple of miles below the canal 
heading. There had been conclusion to settle upon the table- 
land to the southwest. Pomeroy and Sirrine made a rough, 
though sufficient, survey with straight-edge and spirit level, 
along what then was named the "Montezuma Canal," 
eleven miles to a point where a townsite was selected. 

Use of a Prehistoric Canal 

Nothing short of Providential was considered the find- 
ing of the canal, dug by a prehistoric people into the edge of 
the mesa, which it gradually surmounted. This canal, in 
all probability, had been cut more than 1000 years before. 
It could be traced from the river for twenty miles, main- 
taining an even gradient, possibly as good as could have been 
laid out with a modern level, and with a number of laterals 
that spread over a country about as extensively cultivated 
as at present. A lateral served the Lehi section and other 
ditches conducted water to the southwest, past the famous 
ancient city of Los Muertos (later explored by Frank H. 

213 



Cushing) and then around the southeastern foothills of the 
Salt River Mountains to points not far distant from the 
Gila River. The main canal cut through the tableland for 
two miles, with a top width of even fifty feet and a depth 
of twelve feet, chopped out in places, with stone axes, 
through a difficult formation of hardpan, "caliche." The 
old canal was cleaned out for the necessities of the pioneers, 
at a cost of about $48,000, including the head, and after- 
ward was enlarged. At the time, there was an estimate that 
its utilization saved at least $20,000 in cost of excavation. 
There were 123 miles of these ancient canals. 

This canal undertaking was a tremendous one, especial- 
ly in consideration of the fact that for the first five months 
the Mesa settlers available for work were only eighteen 
able-bodied men and boys. The brethren were hardly 
strong enough in man power to have dug the canal had it 
not been for the old channel. A small stream was led to 
the townsite in October, 1878, and in the same month 
building construction was begun. An early settler wrote : 

We were about nine months in getting a small stream of water 
out at an expense of $43,000 in money and labor, so that we could 
plant gardens and set out some fruit trees. A man was allowed $1.50 
and a man and team $3 per day for labor. Our ditch ran through some 
formation that would slack up like lime; and as whole sections of it 
would slide, it kept us busy nearly all the time the following year 
enlarging and repairing the canal. Our labors only lessened as our 
numbers increased, and the banks became more solid, so that today 
(1894) we have a good canal carrying about 7000 inches of water. 

It would appear that a tremendous amount of optimism, 
energy and self-reliance lay in the leaders of the small com- 
munity, in digging through the bank of a stubborn cliff, in 
throwing a rude dam across a great flood stream and in 
planting their homes far out on a plain that bore little 
evidence of agricultural possibilities, beyond a growth of 
creosote bush, the Larrea Mexicana. There were easier 
places where settlements might have been made, at Lehi or 
Tempe, or upon the smaller streams, but there must have 

214 



been a vision rather broader than that of the original 
immigrant, a vision that later has merged into reality far 
larger and richer than had been the dream. 

Within this prosperity are included hundreds of Mor- 
mon pioneers and their children. It often is said that the 
development of a country is by the "breaking" of from three 
to four sets of immigrants. It is not true of Mesa, for there 
the original settlers and their stock generally still hold to 
the land. 

Moving Upon the Mesa Townsite 

The honor of erection of the first home upon the mesa 
lies with the Pomeroy family, though it was hardly con- 
sidered as a house. Logs and timbers were hauled from the 
abandoned Maryville, an outpost of Fort McDowell, at the 
river crossing northeast of Fort Utah. It was erected 
Mexican fashion, the roof supported on stout poles, and 
then mudded walls were built up on arrowweed latticing. 
This Pomeroy residence later was used as the first meeting- 
house, as the first schoolhouse and as the first dance hall, 
though its floor was of packed earth. It might be added 
that there were many dances, for the settlers were a light- 
hearted lot. Most of the settlers re-erected their tents, 
each family upon the lot that had been assigned. 

The first families on the mesa were those of John H. 
Pomeroy, Theodore Sirrine and Chas. H. Mallory. The 
Mallory and Sirrine homes quickly were started. Mallory's, 
the first adobe, was torn down early in 1921. 

By the end of November, 1878, all the families had 
moved from the river camp upon the new townsite. 

Early arrivals included a strong party from Montpelier, 
Bear Lake County, Idaho, the family heads John Hibbert, 
Hyrum S. Phelps, Charles C. Dana, John T. Lesueur, 
William Lesueur, John Davis, Geo. C. Dana and Charles 
Warner. Others, with their families, were Charles Crismon, 
Jr., Joseph Cain and William Brim from the Salt Lake 
section. Nearly all of the settlers who came in the earlier 

215 



days to Mesa were fairly well-to-do, considered in a 
frontier way, and were people of education. Soon, by in- 
telligence and industry, they made the desert bloom. 
Canals were extended all over the mesa. In 1879 was 
gathered the first crop of cereals and vegetables and that 
spring were planted many fruit trees, which grew wonder- 
fully well in the rich, light soil. 

An Irrigation Clash That Did Not Gome 

The summer of 1879 was one of the dryest ever re- 
corded. Though less than 20,000 acres were cultivated in 
the entire valley, the crops around Phoenix suffered for lack 
of water. Salt River was a dry sand expanse for five miles 
below the Mesa, Utah and Tempe canal headings. The 
Mormon water appropriation was blamed for this. So in 
Phoenix was organized an armed expedition of at least 
twenty farmers, who rode eastward, prepared to fight for 
their irrigation priority rights. But there was no battle. 
Instead, they were met in all mildness by Jones and others, 
who agreed that priority rights should prevail. There was 
inspection of the two Mormon ditches, in which less than 
1000 miners' inches were flowing and then was agreement 
that the two canal headgates should be closed for three 
days, to see what effect this action would have on the lower 
water supply. But the added water merely was wasted. 
The sand expanse drank it up and the lower ditches were 
not benefited. There was no more trouble over water 
rights. Indeed, this is the only recorded approach to a clash 
known between the Mormon settlers and their neighbors. 

Mesa's Civic Administration 

In May, 1878, T. C. Sirrine located in his own name 
the section of land upon which Mesa City now stands, 
thereafter deeding it to Trustees C. I. Robson, G. W. Sir- 
rine and F. M. Pomeroy, who named it and who platted 
it into blocks of ten acres each, with eight lots, and with 
streets 130 feet wide, the survey being made by A. M. 

216 



Jones. Each settler for each share worked out in the Mesa 
canal, received four lots, or five acres. Two plazas were 
provided. 

For many years there was a general feeling that the 
streets of Mesa were entirely too wide, though it had been 
laid out in loving remembrance of Salt Lake City, and the 
question of ever paving (or even of crossing on a hot sum- 
mer day) was serious. It appears from latter-day develop- 
ment that the old-timers builded wisely, for probably Mesa 
is alone in all of Arizona in having plenty of room for the 
parking of automobiles. The main streets have been paved 
at large expense. In several has been left very attractive 
center parking, for either grass or standing machines. 

Mesa was incorporated July 15, 1883. The first elec- 
tion chose A. F. Macdonald as Mayor, E. Pomeroy, G. W. 
Sirrine, W. Passey and A. F. Stewart as Councilmen, C. 
I. Robson as Recorder, J. H. Carter as Treasurer, H. C. 
Longmoie as Assessor, W. Richins as Marshal, and H. S. 
Phelps as Poundkeeper. All were members of the faith, 
for others were very few in Mesa at that time. 

Growth was slow for a number of years, for in a city 
census, taken January 4, 1894, there was found population 
of only 648, with an assessment valuation of $106,000. The 
1920 census found 3036. 

Mail at first was received at Hayden's Ferry. Soon 
thereafter was petition for a postoffice. The federal author- 
ities refused the name of "Mesa" on the ground that it 
might be confused with Mesaville, a small office in Pinal 
County. So, in honor of their friend at the Ferry, there was 
acceptance of the name Hayden. Though the Ferry had 
the postoffice name of Tempe, there ensued much mixture 
of mail matter. In 1887, there followed a change in the 
postoffice name to Zenos, after a prophet of the Book of 
Mormon. In the order of things, Mesaville passed away 
and then the settlement quickly availed itself of the 
privilege opened, to restore the commonly accepted designa- 
tion of Mesa. 

217 



Foundation of Alma 

Alma is a prosperous western extension of Mesa, of 
which it is a fourth ward. The locality at first, and even 
unto this day, has borne the local name of Stringtown, 
for the houses are set along a beautiful country road, 
cottonwood-bordered for miles. The first settlers of the 
locality were Henry Standage (a veteran of the Mormon 
Battalion), Hyrum W. Pugh, Chauncey F. Rogers and 
Wm. N. Standage, with their families. These settlers 
constituted a party from Lewiston and Richmond, Cache 
County, Utah, and arrived at Mesa, January 19, 1880. 
In that same month they started work on an extension of 
the Mesa canal, soon thereafter aided by neighbors, who 
arrived eaily in 1881. There were good crops. Early in 
1882 houses were erected. 

Highways Into the Mountains 

In 1880, the Mesa authorities took steps to provide a 
better highway to Globe, this with the active cooperation of 
their friend, Chas. T. Hayden. Globe was a rich market 
for agricultural products, yet could be reached only by way 
of Florence and the Cane Springs and Pioneer road, over 
the summit of the Pinal Mountains, or by way of the almost 
impassable Reno Mountain road from McDowell into Tonto 
Basin, a road that was ridden in pain, but philosophically, 
by the members of the Erastus Snow party that passed in 
1878. The idea of 1880 was to get through the Pinal 
Mountains, near Silver King. A new part of this route 
now is being taken by a State road that starts at Superior, 
cutting a shelf along the canyon side of Queen Creek, to 
establish the shortest possible road between Mesa and 
Globe. The first adequate highway ever had from Mesa 
eastward was the Roosevelt road, later known as the 
Apache Trail, built in 1905 by the Reclamation Service, to 
connect the valley with Roosevelt, which lies at the 
southern point of Tonto Basin. 

218 



Hayden's Ferry, Latterly Tempe 

Tempe, eight miles east of Phoenix on Salt River, was 
first known as Hayden's Ferry. Its founder was Chas. 
Trumbull Hayden, a pioneer merchant who early saw the 
possibilities of development within the Salt River Valley 
and who built a flour mill that still is known by his name. 
Arizona's Congressman, Carl Hayden, is a son of the 
pioneer merchant, miller and ferryman. The name of Tempe 
(from a valley of ancient Greece) is credited to Darrell 
Duppa, a cultured Englishman, who is also understood to 
have named Phoenix. It was applied to Hayden's Ferry 
and also to a Mexican settlement, something over a half- 
mile distant, locally known as San Pablo. 

Hayden welcomed the advent of the Mormons, led to 
the country by Daniel W. Jones in 1877, and befriended 
those who followed, *thus materially assisting in the up- 
building of the Lehi and Mesa settlements. 

Tempe, as a Mormon settlement, started July 23, 1882, 
in the purchase by Benjamin Franklin Johnson, Jos. E. 
Johnson and relatives, from Hayden, of eighty acres of 
land that lay between the ferry and the Mexican town. 
For this tract there was paid $3000. The Johnson party 
left Spring Lake, Utah, in April and traveled via Lee's 
Ferry. There was survey of the property into lots and 
blocks, and the Johnsons at once started upon the building 
of homes. There was included also a small cooperative 
store. The foundation was laid for a meeting house, but 
religious services usually were held in a bowery or in the 
district schoolhouse that had been built before the Saints 
came. 

In the fall of 1882 there arrived a number of families, 
most of them Johnsons or relatives. When the Maricopa 
Stake was organized December 10, 1882, David T. LeBaron 
was presiding at Tempe. June 15, 1884, Tempe was organ- 
ized as a ward, successively headed by Samuel Openshaw 
and Jas. F. Johnson. 



219 



In August, 1887, most of Tempe's Mormon residents 
moved to Nephi, west of Mesa, mainly upon land acquired 
by Benj. F. Johnson, the settlement popularly known as 
Johnsonville. The departure hinged upon the building of 
a branch railroad of the Southern Pacific from Maricopa, 
through Tempe, to Phoenix. An offer was made by a newly- 
organized corporation for the land that had been taken by 
the Johnsons, who sold on terms then considered advan- 
tageous. Upon this land now is located a large part of the 
prosperous town of Tempe, within which is a considerable 
scattering of Mormon families, though without local 
organization. 

Patriarch B. F. Johnson died in Mesa, November 18, 
1905, at the age of 87. At that time it was told that his 
descendants and those married into the family numbered 
1500, probably constituting the largest family within the 
Church membership. 

Organization of the Maricopa Stake 

The Church history of Mesa started October 14, 1878, 
when Apostle Erastus Snow, on his memorable trip through 
the Southwest, at Fort Utah, appointed a late arrival, 
Jesse N. Perkins, as presiding elder and H. C. Rogers and 
G. W. Sirrine as counselors. Perkins died of smallpox in 
northeastern Arizona. In 1880, President John Taylor at 
St. George, Utah, appointed Alexander F. Macdonald to 
preside over the new stake. He arrived and took office 
in February of that year. Macdonald was a sturdy, lengthy 
Scotchman, a preacher of the rough and ready sort and of 
tremendous effectiveness, converted in Perth, in June, 
1846, and a Salt Lake arrival by ox team in 1854. In 1882, 
on permanent organization of the Stake, Chas. I. Robson 
succeeded Sirrine as counselor. Robson December 4, 
1887, succeeded to the presidency, with H. C. Rogers and 
Collins R. Hakes as counselors, Macdonald taking up 
leadership in the northern Mexican Stakes, pioneering work 
of difficulty for which he was especially well suited. In 

220 




MARICOPA STAKE PRESIDENTS 

1— Alexander F. Macdonald 3— Collins R. Hakes 

2— Chas. I. Robson 
4— Jno. T. Lesueur 5— Jas. W. Lesueur 



December, 1884, he headed an expedition and surveying 
party into Chihuahua, Mexico, looking for settlement 
locations, and secured large landed interests. He became ill 
at El Paso, on his way back to his home at Colonia Juarez. 
He died at Colonia Dublan, thirty miles short of his 
destination, March 21, 1903. 

Chas. I. Robson served as President to the day of his 
death, February 24, 1894. He was of English ancestry, 
born February 20, 1837, in Northumberland. He was 
specially distinguished in the early days of Utah through 
his success in starting the first paper factory known in 
western America. As a boy, he had worked in a paper fac- 
tory in England. In 1870, he was warden of the Utah 
penitentiary. 

May 10, 1894, Collins R. Hakes (of the San Bernardino 
colony) succeeded to the presidency of Maricopa Stake, 
with Henry C. Rogers and Jas. F. Johnson as counselors. 
At that time were five organized wards, with 2446 souls, 
including 1219 Indians in the Papago ward, and to the 
southward toward Mexico. Mesa then was credited with 
648 people of the faith, Lehi 200, Alma 282 and Nephi 104. 

In 1905, President Hakes transferred his activities to 
the development of a new colony of his people at Blue- 
water, N. M., near Fort Wingate. His death was in Mesa, 
August 27, 1916. 

To the Maricopa Stake Presidency, November 26, 1905, 
succeeded Jno. T. Lesueur, transferred from St. Johns, 
where, from Mesa, he settled in 1880. He is still a resident 
of Mesa. He resigned as president in 1912, the position 
taken, on March 10 of that year, by his son, Jas. W. 
Lesueur, who still is in office. 

December 20, 1898, first was occupied the Stake taber- 
nacle, 75x45 feet in size, built of brick and costing $11,000. 
At its dedication were Apostle Brigham Young, Jr., and a 
number of other Church dignitaries. 



221 



A Great Temple to Rise in Mesa 

For more than a year plans have been in the making 
for erection at Mesa of a great temple of the Church, to 
cost about $500,000. It is to be the ninth of such struc- 
tures. The others, in the order of their dedication, are (or 
were): at Kirtland, Ohio, of date 1836; at Nauvoo, Illinois, 
1846; at St. George, Logan, Manti and Salt Lake, Utah, 
and at Laie, Hawaiian Islands. Another is being built at 
Cardston, Alberta, Canada. The Kirtland edifice was 
abandoned. That at Nauvoo was wrecked by incen- 
diaries in 1848. The great Temple at Salt Lake, its site 
located by Brigham Young four days after his arrival, 
in July, 1847, was forty years in building and its dedica- 
tion was not till 1893. 

Merely in the way of explanation, it may be noted that 
a Mormon temple is not a house of public worship. It is, 
as was the Temple of Solomon, more of a sanctuary, a 
place wherein ecclesiastical ordinances may have ad- 
ministration. It has many lecture rooms, wherein to be 
seated the classes under instruction, and there is provision 
of places for the performance of the ordinances of baptism, 
marriage, confirmation, etc. 

Especially important are considered the baptism and 
blessings (endowments) bestowed vicariously on the living 
for the benefit of the dead. There also is added solemnity 
in a temple marriage, for it is for eternity and not merely 
for time. Due to this is the unusual activity of the Church 
members in genealogical research. It is believed that the 
Mormon Church is the only denomination that marries 
for eternity, this marriage also binding in the eternal family 
relation the children of the contracting individuals. 

The temple administration is separate from that of the 
Stake in which it may be situated and its doors, after dedi- 
cation, are closed save to its officers and to those who 
come to receive its benefits. In the past years these ordi- 
nances have been received outside of Arizona, at large 

222 



expense for travel from this State. Naturally, there has 
been a wish for location of a temple more readily to be 
reached by the devout. 

The temple idea in Arizona appears to date back to an 
assurance given about 1870 in St. George by Brigham 
Young. A prediction was made by Jesse N. Smith about 
1882, to the effect that a temple, at some future day, would 
be reared on the site of Pima in Graham County. The 
first donation toward such an end was recorded January 
24, 1887, in the name of Mrs. Helena Roseberry, a poor 
widow of Pima, who gave $5 toward the building of a temple 
in Arizona, handing the money to Apostle Moses Thatcher. 
This widow's mite ever since has been held by the Church 
in Salt Lake. Possibly it has drawn good interest, for 
through the Church Presidency has come a donation of 
$200,000 to assure the end the widow had wished for. 

Another "nest egg," the first contribution received 
directly for the Mesa edifice, came from another widow, 
Mrs. Amanda Hastings of Mesa, who, on behalf of herself 
and children, three years ago, gave the Stake presidency 
$15. 

The new temple, of which there is reproduction here- 
with of an artist's sketch, is to rise in the eastern part of 
Mesa upon a tract of forty acres, which is to be a veritable 
park, its edges occupied by homes. The architects are Don 
C. Young and Ramm Hansen of Salt Lake. The temple 
will rise 66 feet, showing as a vast monument upon a 
foundation base that will be 180x195 feet. This base will 
contain the offices and preparation rooms. While the 
structure will be sightly from all sides, on its north will be 
a great entrance. Between the dividing staircase will be 
a corridor entry to the baptismal room. The staircase, 
joined at the second story, will stretch 100 feet in a great 
flight, its landings successively taking the initiates to the 
higher planes of instruction. In this respect, the plan is 
said by Church authorities to be the best of any temple 

223 



of the faith. The rooms will be ample in size for the in- 
struction of classes of over 100. 

The building of the Mesa temple was the primary sub- 
ject at all meetings of congregations of the faith on Sep- 
tember 12, 1920, and from voluntary donations on that 
day there was added to the temple fund $112,000. 



224 



Chapter Twenty 



(Jftrst ^anttitsg of Arizona 

Pueblo Dwellers of Ancient Times 

In considering the development features of the settle- 
ment of central Arizona, the Author feels it might be in- 
teresting to note that the immigrants saw in the Salt River 
Valley many evidences of the truth of the Book of Mormon, 
covering the passage northward of the Nephites of old. 
There was found a broad valley that had lain untouched 
for a thousand years, unoccupied by Indian or Spaniard 
till Jack Swilling and his miners dug the first canal on the 
north side of the river a few years before the coming of the 
Saints to Jonesville. The valley had lain between the red- 
skinned agriculturists of the Gila and the Apache Ishmael- 
ites of the hills. There had been no intrusion of Spanish or 
Mexican grants. The ground had been preserved for 
utilization of the highest sort by American intelligence. 

Yet this same intelligence found much to admire in 
the works of the people who had passed on. From the river 
had been taken out great canals of good gradient, and it 
was clear that they had been dug by a people of homely 
thrift and of skill in the tilling of the soil. There still were 
to be seen piles of earth that marked where at least seven 
great communal houses had formed nuclei for a numerous 
people. These were served by 123 miles of canals. 

These people were not Aztec. According to accepted 
tradition, the Aztecs passed southward along the western 
coast, reaching Culiacan, in northwestern Mexico, about 
700 A. D., and there named themselves the Mextli. The 
ancient people of the Salt River Valley probably had 

225 




_ (H 



226 



moved, or were moving, about that same time. They appear 
to have been of Toltecan stock and undoubtedly came from 
the southward, from a land where was known the building 
of houses and wherein had been established religious cults 
of notable completeness and assuredly of tenacious hold. 
Just why they left the Salt River Valley is as incomprehen- 
sible as why they entered it, and how long they stayed is 
purely a matter of conjecture. Probably occupation of the 
valley was not simultaneous. Probably the leaving was 
by families or clans, extending over a period of many years. 
Probably they left on the ending of a cycle of peace, on the 
coming to the Southwest of the first of the Apache, or of 
similar marauders, who preyed upon the peaceful dwellers 
of the plains. That they were people of peace cannot be 
doubted, people who in the end had to defend their towns, 
yet sought no aggression. 
Evidences of Well- Developed Culture 

Possibly a great epidemic, of the sort known to have 
swept Mexico before the coming of the Spaniard, gravely 
cut down the numbers of the ancient valley settlers. Near 
every communal castle is to be found a cemetery, filled with 
burial urns, their tops usually less than a foot below the 
surface. These urns (ollas) are filled with calcined human 
bones. By them are to be found the broken pottery, of 
which the spirits were to accompany the late lamented on 
their journey to the happy hunting grounds. These dishes 
once contained food, intended for the spirit travelers' 
nourishment. When there was a child, oftimes now is found 
the clay image of a dog, for a dog always knows the way 
home. The dog is believed to have been the only domestic 
animal of the time. 

In some cases, in the greater houses, walled into crypts 
that might have served as family lounging places, have been 
found the skeletons of those who were of esoteric standing, 
considered able, by the force of will, to separate spirit from 
body. In other cases the cleansing and disintegrating 

227 



effects of fire secured the necessary separation of the spirit 
from the body. 

With these mortuary evidences also are found domestic 
implements, stone clubs, arrow points and, particularly 
valuable, prayer sticks and religious implements that 
clearly show the archaeologist a connection with the pueblo- 
dwelling peoples who still live, under similar communal 
conditions, to the northward. 

Northward Trend of the Ancient People 

That these ancient peoples went north there can be no 
doubt. North of the valley, nearly fifty miles, on the Verde, 
is a great stone ruin and beyond it are cavate dwellings of 
remarkable sort. In Tonto Creek Valley, a dozen miles 
north of the Roosevelt dam, is an immense ruin built of 
gypsum blocks. To the eastward, Casa Grande, most famed 
of all Arizona prehistoric remains, still stands, iron-roofed 
by a careful government, probably of a later time of 
abandonment, but still a ruin when first seen by Father 
Eusebio Kino in 1694. All the way up the Gila, and with 
a notable southern stem through the Mimbres Valley, are 
found these same evidences of ancient occupation. Chi- 
chilticalli, "the Red House," mentioned by Marco de Niza 
and by Coronado's historians in 1539-40, lay somewhere 
near where another group of Mormons again reclaimed the 
desert soil by irrigation in the upper Gila Valley. Ruins 
extended from Pueblo Viejo ("Old Town"), above Solo- 
monville, down to San Carlos. 

Into the valleys of the Salt and of the Gila, from the 
north come many waterways. In none of these tributary 
valleys can there be failure to find evidences of the north- 
ward march of the Indians who lived in houses. In this 
intermediate region, the houses usually, for protection, were 
placed in the cliffs. Particularly notable are the cave 
dwellings of the upper Verde and in Tonto Basin, near 
Roosevelt, and in the Sierra Anchas and near Flagstaff. 

Again there was debouchment upon a river valley, that 

228 







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JONATHAN HEATON OF MOCCASIN AND HIS 
FIFTEEN SONS— page 98 




1 — Ira Hatch, Indian Missionary — page 107 

2 — Thales Haskell, Indian Missionary — page 107 

?> — Wm. C. Frows, Battalion Member — page 37 

4 — Nathan B. Robinson, killed by Indians — page 172 



of the Little Colorado. Possibly some of the tribes worked 
eastward into the valley of the Rio Grande. Another sec- 
tion, and for this there is no less evidence than that of 
Frank Hamilton Cushing, formed at least a part of the 
forefathers of the Zuni. Swinging to the northwest, the 
Water House and other clans formed the southern branch 
of the three from which the Moqui, or Hopi, people are 
descended. This last is history. The early Mormons re- 
marked upon the pueblo ruins that lay near their first 
Little Colorado towns, above St. Joseph. These ruins are 
known to the Hopi as "Homolobi," and much is the in- 
formation concerning them to be had from the historians 
of the present hilltop tribes. 

Reports of similarity have been so many, there can be 
no surprise that the earlier settlers from Utah wrote home 
joyously, telling that proofs had been found of the 
northern migration so definitely outlined in their ecclesias- 
tical writings, according to the Book of Mormon. 

The Great Reavis Land Grant Fraud 

For about ten years from 1885 all the lands of the Salt 
and Gila valleys of Arizona lay under a serious cloud of 
title. There had been elimination of the Texas-Pacific land- 
grant, which unsuccessfully had been claimed by the 
Southern Pacific. Then came the Reavis grant, one of the 
most monumental of attempted swindles ever known. 
James Addison Reavis, a newspaper solicitor, claimed a 
tract 78 miles wide from a point at the junction of the Gila 
and Salt Rivers, eastward to beyond Silver City, N. M., 
on the basis of an alleged grant, of date December 20, 
1748, by Fernando VI, King of Spain, to Senor Don Miguel 
de Peralta y Cordoba, who then was made Baron of the 
Colorados and granted 300 square leagues in the northern 
portion of the viceroyalty of New Spain. The grant was 
said to have been appropriated in 1757. Reavis had first 
claimed by virtue of a deed from one Willing, of date 1867, 
but there was switching later, Reavis thereafter claiming 

229 



as agent for his wife, said to have been the last of the 
Peralta line, but in reality a half-breed Indian woman, 
found on an Indian reservation in northern California, and 
one who had no Mexican history whatever. Reavis re- 
named himself "Peralta-Reavis," and for a while had head- 
quarters for his "barony" at Arizola, a short distance east 
of Casa Grande, where he maintained his family in state, 
with his children in royal purple velvet, with monogrammed 
coronets upon their Russian caps. He arrogated to himself 
ownership of all the water and the mines and sold quit- 
claim deeds to the land's owners. It is said that the South- 
ern Pacific bought its right of way from him and that the 
Silver King and other mines similarly contributed to his 
exchequer. He claimed Phoenix, Mesa, Florence, Globe, 
Silver King, Safford and Silver City. 

He planned a storage basin on Salt River and another 
above Florence on the Gila, and advertised that he in- 
tended to reclaim 6,000,000 acres on the Casa Grande and 
Maricopa plains, "thereafter returning to the Gila any 
surplus water." Just how accurate his figures were may be 
judged by the fact that government engineers have found 
that the waters of the Gila, above Florence, are sufficient 
for the inigation of not more than 90,000 acres. He 
viewed things on a big scale, however. At Tonto Basin 
he was to build a dam 450 feet high and the water was to 
be taken from the river channel by means of a 44,000-foot 
tunnel. 

Whenever one of his prospective customers failed to 
contribute, he often deeded the land to a third party. Some 
of these deeds are to be seen on the records of Maricopa 
County. His case had been so well prepared that many 
were deceived, even the lawyeis who served him as counsel, 
including Robert G. Ingersoll. Naturally something ap- 
proximating a panic for a while was known by the farmers 
of the valleys affected. 

Meanwhile, very largely from moneys obtained as above 

230 



noted, Reavis was spending royally at many points. At 
Madrid, Spain, he had a gorgeous establishment, whereat 
he even entertained the American Legation. At many 
points in Mexico, he scattered coin lavishly and accumu- 
lated cords of alleged original records and he even found 
paintings of his wife's alleged ancestors. The grant was 
taken into politics and was an issue in the congressional 
campaign of 1887. 

About 1898 there was establishment of the United States 
Court of Private Land Claims, especially for adjudication 
of many such claims in the Southwest. Reavis' elabor- 
ately prepared case tumbled almost from the day it was 
brought into court. Government agents found bribery, 
corruption and fraud all along his trail. He had interpolated 
pages in old record books and had even changed and re- 
written royal documents, including one on which the grant 
was based. Some of his "ancient " documents were found 
to have been executed on very modern milled paper. On 
one of them appeared the water mark of a Wisconsin paper 
mill. Others had type that had been invented only a few 
years before. The claim was unanimously rejected by the 
land court and on the same day Reavis was arrested on 
five indictments for conspiracy. He was convicted in 
January, 1895, and sentenced to six years in the peniten- 
tiary. After serving his sentence, he made a brief confession, 
telling that he had been "playing a game which to win 
meant greater wealth than that of Gould or Vanderbilt." 
The district covered by his claim today has property 
valued at at least one billion dollars. 

When Mesa first was settled, every alternate section 
was called "railroad land," claimed by the Southern Pacific, 
under virtue of the old Tom Scott-Texas & Pacific land 
grant. Early in the eighties, this claim vanished, it being 
decided that the Southern Pacific had no right to the grant. 



231 



Chapter Twenty-one 



Location on the San Pedro River 

Much historical value attaches to the settlement of 
the Saints upon the San Pedro River, even though pros- 
perity there has not yet come in as large a degree as has 
been known elsewhere within the State. It is not improb- 
able that within the next few years an advance in material 
riches will be known in large degree, through water storage, 
saving both water and the cutting away of lands through 
flood, and that permanent diversion works will save the 
heart-breaking tasks of frequent rebuilding of the tempo- 
rary dams heretofore washed out in almost every freshet. 

Elsewhere has been told the story of the Daniel W. 
Jones party that settled at Lehi and of the dissension that 
followed objections on the part of the majority to the rul- 
ings of the stout old elder, whose mind especially dwelt 
upon the welfare of red-skinned brethren. 

There had been general authorization to the Jones- 
Merrill expedition to go as far southward as it wished. 
Under this, though not till there had been consultation 
with the Church Presidency, the greater number of the Lehi 
settlers left Salt River early in August, 1877. There was 
expectation that they were to settle on the headwaters of 
the Gila or on the San Pedro. There must have been a 
deal of faith within the company, for the departure from 
camp was with provisions only enough to last two days 
and there was appreciation that much wild country would 
need to be passed. But there was loan of the wages of A. 
O. Williams, a member of the party who had been employed 

232 



by C. T. Hayden at Tempe, and with this money added 
provisions were secured. 

Necessarily, the journey was indirect. At Tucson em- 
ployment was offered for men and teams by Thomas Gard- 
ner, who owned a sawmill in the Santa Rita Mountains. 
Much of the money thus earned was saved, for the party 
lived under the rules of the United Order, and very economi- 
cally. So, in the fall, with the large joint capital of $400 in 
cash, added to teams and wagons and to industry and 
health, there was fresh start, from the Santa Ritas, for the 
San Pedro, 45 miles distant. The river was reached No- 
vember 29, 1877. 

These first settlers comprised Philemon C, Dudley T., 
Thomas, Seth and Orrin D. Merrill, George E. Steele, 
Joseph McRae and A. O. Williams. All but Williams and 
0. D. Merrill had families. 

Ground was broken at a point on the west side of the 
river, on land that had been visited and located October 
14, by P. C. Merrill on an exploring trip. The first camp 
was about a half mile south of the present St. David and 
soon was given permanency by the erection of a small 
stone fort of eight rooms. That winter, for the common 
interest, was planting of 75 acres of wheat and barley, 
irrigated from springs and realizing very well. 

Malaria Overcomes a Community 

As was usual in early settlement of Arizona valleys, 
malarial fever appeared very soon. At one time, in the fall 
of 1878, nearly all the settlers were prostrated with the 
malady, probably carried by mosquitoes from stagnant 
water. That year also it was soberly told that fever and 
ague even spread to the domestic animals. At times, the 
sick had to wait on the sick and there was none to greet 
Apostle Erastus Snow when he made visitation October 
6, 1878. His first address was to an assembly of 38 individ- 
uals, of whom many had been carried to the meeting on 
their beds. It is chronicled by Elder McRae that, "not- 

233 



withstanding these conditions, the Apostle blessed the 
place, prophesying that the day would come when the San 
Pedro Valley would be settled from one end to the other 
with Saints and that we had experienced the worst of our 
sickness. When he left, all felt better in body and in 
spirit." It was a decidedly hot season. "Vegetation grew 
so rank that a horseman mounted on a tall horse could 
hardly be seen at a distance of a quarter of a mile. Hay 
could be cut a stone's throw from our door." 

The first death was on October 2, 1878, of the same A. 
O. Williams whose money had brought the people to the 
new land. 

Possibly the settlement needed the mental and spiritual 
encouragement of Apostle Snow, for more than a year had 
passed of hardships and of labor, and, including the Lehi 
experience, there had been no recompense, unless it might 
have been in the way of mental and moral discipline. 

The early malaria of the Arizona valleys nearly all has 
disappeared, with the draining of swampy places, the eradi- 
cation of beaver dams and mosquitoes and the knowledge 
of better living conditions. Elsewhere has been told of the 
abandonment of Obed and other early Little Colorado 
settlements, because of chills and fever. Something of the 
same sort was known on the upper Gila, from 1882 to 1890, 
around Pima, Curtis and Bryce. In this same upper Gila 
Valley, Fort Goodwin had to be abandoned on account of 
malarial conditions. The same is true of old Fort Grant, 
across the divide, on the lower San Pedro. The upper 
Verde, the Santa Cruz and nearly all similar valleys knew 
malaria at the time of settlement. 

According to Merrill, on March 26, 1879, the sick and 
sorry settlers went into the Huachuca Mountains to sum- 
mer, but, "the wind blew so much that we moved back to 
the river, near where Hereford now is, rented some land 
and put in some crops." This location is just about where 
the members of the Mormon Battalion, in 1846, had their 

234 



memorable fight with the wild bulls. A Merrill report, 
rendered March 16, 1881, was far from hopeful and asked 
that the writer be relieved of his responsibilities. 

On the Route of the Mormon Battalion 

This office has been unable to find any reference con- 
necting Merrill's later experiences in the San Pedro Valley 
with the time when he was an officer of the Mormon 
Battalion, though it can be imagined that his later asso- 
ciates had the benefit of many reminiscences of that 
period of the march just prior to the taking of Tucson. 

The San Pedro Valley is a historic locality. Down it 
passed Friar Marco de Niza, in 1539, and the Coronado 
expedition of the following year. The waters of the stream 
were a joyous sight to the Mormon Battalion, when it 
passed that way during the Mexican War. The country 
then had been occupied to some extent by Spaniards or 
Mexicans, who had established large ranches, with many 
cattle, from which they had been driven by the Apaches, 
years before the Battalion came. The country once had 
been the ranging ground of the friendly Sobaipuri Indians, 
but they too had been driven away by the hillmen and had 
established a village on the Santa Cruz, near their kinsmen, 
the Papago, almost on the site where Tucson was founded 
as a Spanish presidio in 1776. 

The river, when the Merrill party came, was found 
usually in a deep gully, in places twenty feet below the 
surface of the silty ground. Naturally, difficulty has 
attended the attempts to dam the stream. 

Chronicles of a Quiet Neighborhood 

St. David was named by Alexander F. Macdonald in 
honor of David W. Patten, a martyr of the Church, who 
died at the hands of the same mob that killed Joseph Smith. 
Its first mail was received at Tres Alamos, sixteen miles 
down the river. A postoffice was established in 1882, 
Joseph McRae in charge. When the Southern Pacific came 

235 



through, Benson was established, nine miles to the north- 
ward. Tombstone lies sixteen miles to the southeast. 

In May, 1880, the present St. David townsite was laid 
out. John Smith Merrill built the first house. The follow- 
ing j^ear an adobe schoolhouse was built, this used for public 
gatherings until shaken down by an earthquake, May 3, 
1887, happily while the children were at recess. Much 
damage was done in the town. 

The settlement had little or no trouble with Indians, 
though for nine years Apache bands scouted and murdered 
in the nearby mountains and committed depredations 
within the San Pedro Valley, both to the northward and 
southward. 

Early in 1879 John Campbell, a new member, from 
Texas, built a sawmill, in the Huachuca Mountains, that 
furnished a diversity of industry, from it much lumber being 
shipped to Tombstone. 

Macdcnald was a southern extension of the St. David 
community on the San Pedro, established in 1882 by Henry 
J. Home, Jonathan Hoopes and others, and named in 
honor of Alexander F. Macdonald, then president of the 
Maricopa Stake. It was of slow growth, owing to claims 
upon the lands as constituting a part of the San Juan de 
las Boquillas y Nogales grant, later rejected. In 1913, 
nine miles west of St. David, was established the com- 
munity of Miramonte. 

Looking Toward Homes in Mexico 

While the Saints were establishing themselves upon the 
San Pedro and Gila, the Church authorities by no means 
had lost sight of the primary object of the southern mi- 
gration. January 4, 1883, Apostle Moses Thatcher, with 
Elders D. P. Kimball, Teeples, Fuller, Curtis, Trejo and 
Martineau, left St. David for an exploring trip into Mexico. 

September 13, 1884, another party left St. David to 
explore the country lying south of the line, along the 
Babispe River, returning October 7, by way of the San 

236 



Bernardino ranch, though without finding any locations 
considered favorable. 

In November, 1884, Apostles Brigham Young, Jr., and 
Heber J. Grant, with a company from St. Joseph Stake, 
with thirty wagons, went into Sonora, where they were 
given a hearty welcome by the Yaqui Indians, who ex- 
pressed hope of a settlement among them. 

St. David was the scene of one of the most notable 
councils of the Church, held in January, 1885, and presided 
over by none other than President John Taylor, who left 
Salt Lake City, January 3, and whose party at St. David 
included also Apostles Joseph F. Smith, Erastus Snow, 
Brigham Young, Jr., Moses Thatcher and Francis M. 
Lyman, with other dignitaries of the Church. At St. David 
were met Jesse N. Smith, Christopher Layton, Alex. F. 
Macdonald and Lot Smith, presidents of the four Stakes of 
Arizona. The discussion at this conference appeared to 
have been mainly upon the Church prosecution, then in 
full sway, a matter not included within the purview of 
this work. There was determination to extend the Church 
settlements farther to the southward. According to Orson 
F. Whitney: 

In order to provide a place of refuge for such as were being hunted 
and hounded, President Taylor sent parties into Mexico to arrange 
for the purchase of land in that country, upon which the fugitive Saints 
might settle. One of the first sites selected for this purpose was just 
across the line in the State of Sonora. Elder Christopher Layton 
made choice of this locality. Other lands were secured in the State 
of Chihuahua. President Taylor and his party called upon Governor 
Torres at Hermosillo, the capital of Sonora, and were received by 
that official with marked courtesy. 

Historian Whitney states that the Taylor party then 
went westward by way of the Salt River Valley settle- 
ments to the Pacific Coast. And this office has a record to 
the effect that, in January, President Taylor visited also 
the settlements of the Little Colorado section and counseled 
concerning the disposition of several of the early towns of 
that locality. 

237 



Of Arizona interest is the fact that for two and a half 
years thereafter, the President of the Mormon Church was 
in exile, till the date of his death, July 25, 1887, in Kaysville, 
Utah. Much of the intervening time was spent in Arizona 
and a part of it in Mexico, in the settlements that had been 
established as places of refuge. His declining months, 
however, were spent in Utah, even entire communities 
guarding well the secret of the presence of their spiritual 
head. 

Arizona's First Artesian Well 

Possibly the first artesian well known in Arizona was 
developed in the St. David settlement. In 1885 a bounty 
of $1500 was offered for the development of artesian water. 
The reward was claimed by the McRae brothers, who 
developed a flow of about thirty gallons a minute, but who 
failed to receive any reward. Five years ago, J. S. Merrill 
of St. David reported that within the San Pedro Valley 
were about 200 flowing wells, furnishing from five to 150 
gallons a minute. The deepest valley well was about 600 
feet. At that time about 2000 acres were irrigated by the 
St. David canal and by the wells, sustaining a population of 
about 600 souls. 

Development of a Market at Tombstone 

It happened on the San Pedro, just as in many other 
places, that the Mormons were just a little ahead of some 
great development. September 3, 1877, at Tucson, Ed. 
Schieffelin recorded the first of his mining claims in Tomb- 
stone District, which then lay in Pima County. 

Schiefifelin's first discovery was several miles from the 
later site of Tombstone and about four miles from the San 
Pedro. Later, with Dick Gird and Al Schiffelin, the 
original discoverer located the lower group of mines in 
the camp of Tombstone, then established. A number of 
other settlements sprang up, including the nearby Rich- 
mond, Watervale and the mill towns of Charleston and 

238 



Contention City, both on the San Pedro , where water could 
be secured. 

Several miles west of Tombstone, just where Ed. 
Schieffelin camped at the time of the discovery of his 
Tombstone claim, is a large monument of cemented rock, 
under which lie his remains, brought back from the North- 
west for interment in the land he loved. His death was on 
May 12, 1897. 

The Tombstone Gold & Silver Milling & Mining Com- 
pany, of which former Gov. A. P. K. Safford was president, 
in 1880 owned the original group of Schieffelin claims, of 
which the Tough Nut was the main property. A stamp 
mill was built on the San Pedro and a contract entered into 
with the Mormons to build a dam and ditch, from which 
it was hoped to secure motive power. Concerning this job, 
estimated to cost $6000, Merrill later wrote that the con- 
tractors found themselves fined $300 for six days' overtime 
on completion of the job. Joseph McRae's record tells 
that, in 1879, some of the brethren went up the river, 
twenty miles above St. David, and put in a rip-rap dam 
and a mile and a half of ditch at Charleston for the Boston 
Mining Company. This may have been the Boston & 
Arizona Smelting & Reduction Company, a Massachusetts 
corporation which had a twenty-stamp mill and a roasting 
furnace on the San Pedro, between Charleston and Con- 
tention, ten miles from Tombstone. This job returned 
$6000 in cash. 

The mines brought a relative degree of prosperity to the 
San Pedro settlement, furnishing a ready and profitable 
market for agricultural products, but especially calling 
upon all transportation facilities that could be afforded. 
Teams were busy hauling from the terminus of the railroad 
at Tucson and at Benson, until, in October, 1882, there was 
completion of the New Mexico and Arizona railroad, then 
a Santa Fe corporation, from Benson to Nogales, much 
of the way through the San Pedro Valley, past St. David 

239 



and the milling towns. The mines paid $30 a cord for fuel 
wood and even $40 a ton for hay. 

Lean days descended upon the community, however, 
in the early summer of 1886, when the great pumps of the 
Grand Central mine were stopped by fire. The following 
year Tombstone practically was abandoned and the market 
it had afforded was lost. Not till 1901 did the camp revive. 
It closed again in June, 1903, by the drowning of the 
pumps. Latterly the old mines, consolidated, have been 
worked to some extent by the Phelps-Dodge Corporation, 
but again have been closed, early in April, 1921. 



240 



Chapter Twenty-two 



©tt tip jplppsr (Stla 



Ancient Dwellers and Military Travelers 

Possibly as representative a region as is known in the 
settlement area of the Mormon people lies for about 25 miles 
along the Gila River in eastern Arizona, in Graham County, 
and within St. Joseph Stake. Over a dozen communities 
are contained within this section and all are distinctly 
Mormon in settlement and local operation, save Solo- 
monville, at the upper end, and Safford, the county seat 
and principal town. Most of the land is owned by the Saints, 
who control, as well, a dozen small canals. Within the 
Stake have been included Mormon settlements of the San 
Pedro Valley and those upon the upper Gila, in Greenlee 
County, extending over into New Mexico and El Paso. 

The settlement of the Graham County section of the 
Gila Valley did not start with the Mormons. Far from it. 
In the upper end of the cultivated region is one of the most 
notable groups of ruins in the Southwest. This group, 
since the coming of the Spaniard, appears to have borne 
the name of Pueblo Viejo (Sp., "Old Town"). Somewhere 
farther down the stream is assumed to have been "Chi- 
chilticalli," the "red house" mentioned in the chronicles 
of Marco de Niza and the Coronado expedition. 

The valley was traversed, from east to west, by Gen. 
S. W. Kearny, on his way, with a dragoon escort, in 1846, 
to take California from the Mexicans, this command, from 
the Pima villages westward, forming the advance guard for 
the Mormon Battalion. Much interesting data of the Gila 
Valley trip was written by Lieutenant Emory, who later 

241 



was chief of the Boundary Survey. It is notable that in 
1846 Mount Graham already was known by that name. 

Early Days Around Safford 

A few Mexicans were in the valley as early as 1871, 
farming in the vicinity of Pueblo Viejo, immediately below 
which later arose the town of Solomonville. In 1872 was 
the first Anglo-Saxon settlement, a group of farmers coming 
from Gila Bend, upon the Gila River, where they had 
attempted farming and had failed because the wandering 
river had washed away their dams and headgates. These 
farmers, financed in Tucson for the building of the Monte- 
zuma canal, settled in the vicinity of Safford, where about 
that time, was established a townsite, named in honor of 
Gov. A. P. K. Safford who, from Tucson, then was making 
a tour of that part of Arizona Territory. 

One of the very earliest valley residents was D. W. 
Wickersham, who wrote the Author lately, covering his 
early experiences. To later serve as the first teacher, he 
arrived in Safford the summer of 1876, there finding Joshua 
E. Bailey and Hiram Kennedy, who had come from Gila 
Bend. Bailey he considers the founder of Safford and 
believes it was he who named the settlement. Both Bailey 
and Kennedy came with California troops during the 
Civil War. The former died in Michigan and Kennedy 
was murdered in Safford in 1877. Others of the early 
settlers were Wm. A. Gillespie, John Glasby, John Conley, 
A. F. Perigo, Edw. E. Tuttle and E. T. Ijams. 

In 1876 appeared Isador E. Solomon, who for many 
years occupied a leading position. He came primarily to 
burn charcoal for the rude adobe furnaces that had been 
erected by the Lesynzskys to smelt the free ores of the 
famous Longfellow mine in Chase Creek Canyon, a few 
miles above Clifton. For charcoal Solomon found abundant 
material in an almost unbroken mesquite forest that 
stretched for many miles along the river. Solomon pur- 
chased a road house and small store that had been estab- 

242 




Jhownq the Morn 
z alien rrfovement fro 
River Volley to the Jan 
on to the G'ila Valley. 

Also the fine of the Mormon 
Aatfalron march thru southern 
Arizona. 



/r EPUBLIC 



SOUTHEASTERN ARIZONA 
The Salt, San Pedro and Gila Valleys and Routes of travel 



243 



lished near Pueblo Vie jo by one Munson, and the place 
soon became a trading post for a large extent of country, 
its importance increasing with the development of the great 
mining region around Globe. I. E. Solomon still is living, 
an honored resident of Tucson, his children prominent in 
the business affairs of the State. Solomonville was so 
named, in 1878, by none other than Bill Kirkland, who 
raised the American flag in Tucson in 1856 and who, for a 
while, carried mail from Fort Thomas to Clifton. 

Apostle Erastus Snow appears to have been the first of 
the Mormon faith to cross this Gila Valley region. His party 
arrived on the San Pedro River, October 6, 1878. The most 
easterly point reached in the Gila Valley was at old Camp 
Goodwin, not far from the present railroad station of Fort 
Thomas and at the extreme western or lower end of the 
present farmed area. It would require a separate volume 
to follow Apostle Erastus Snow on his journeyings through 
the Southwest, where he appears to have served as a veri- 
table inspector- general for his Church. ' 

On the 1878 trip, L. John Nuttall of Snow's company, 
writes of passing into the Gila Valley through a rocky 
canyon, "a terrible place, almost impassable, the dread of 
all who travel this way." The same road is very little 
better to this day. 

At one point was passed a ridge known as Postoffice 
Hill, where was found the grave of a white man, killed 
several years before by Apaches. Every time an Apache 
passed, he put a rock on the grave mound, at that time 
about twenty feet square at the base and four feet high. 
The travelers added another rock, on the principle of, 
"When in Rome^ do as the Romans do." 

Mormon Location at Smith ville 

The Mormon settlement of the Gila Valley was one of 
the few made without particular and direct instruction from 
the general Church authorities. It was caused, primarily, 
by trouble over the land tenure at Forest Dale, in the 

244 



mountains to the northward, where settlers, at first per- 
mitted, even encouraged by the reservation authorities, 
finally were advised that they were on Indian land and 
would have to move. The first question before the colo- 
nists immediately became where they should find a new 
abiding place. All of them had come from the northward, 
seeking a better location than afforded along the Little 
Colorado River or in the mountain settlements. So there 
was determination to see what could be found in the way 
of farming land on the Gila, to the southward. 

In February, 1879, an expedition started over the hills 
to view the valley of the Gila. It included W. R. Teeples, 
John Wm. Tanner, Ben Pierce and Hyrum Weech. The 
last-named told that the party looked over the country 
and finally selected a location for a town. He wrote, "We 
traveled from one end of the valley to the other on both 
sides of the river, looking for the best place to take out a 
ditch, because we had very little means and could not go 
to large expense. This (near the location of Smithville, 
later known as Pima) seemed to be about the easiest place 
on the river to take out water, so we decided on making 
the location here." 

The Smithville ditch was on the basis of prior location 
by Gillespie and was extended to cover the Mormon land 
in 1880. Somewhat higher was the Central ditch, which 
had been built several years before as far down as the later 
site of Thatcher and which was extended above Pima in 
1882. 

Somewhat of a Samaritan was found on the ground in 
one Markham, from Oregon, from whom were hired a team 
and wagon and who refused to take any pay. With a pocket 
compass, Smithville was laid out. The settlement could 
not be scattered, because Indians and outlaws threatened. 
Foundations were laid on sixteen corners, each under the 
name of one of the families expected to come from the north. 

The pioneer party then made close investigation of the 

245 



valley, traveling up the Gila into New Mexico, and viewed 
the country around Clifton and along the Blue and Black 
Rivers. The whole trip took about a month. 

The report was, "that the country looked good for stock 
raising and farming." On March 16, at Moses Cluff's camp, 
the proposed migration was approved by Stake President 
Jesse N. Smith, who appointed Jos. K. Rogers to lead it. 
In the first company were Rogers, Teeples, Weech, Henry 
D. Dall, William Thompson and the families of all except 
Weech and Dall. To these were added John and Thomas 
Sessions and Earlton Haws, making 28 in all. Arrival was 
on April 8, 1879. The Cluffs (three families) came very 
soon after the first party. In a later migration came Samuel 
Curtis, Heber Reed, Edgar Sessions and William Asay. 

E. G. Curtis, one Of the earliest of the settlers, told that 
in passing Fort Thomas in March, "the country is found 
entirely covered with poppies, one of the most beautiful 
sights I ever expect to see. The grass was high and when 
the wind would blow it down in great waves, you could 
see great bunches of antelope." 

A Second Party Locates at Graham 

In the Church history of Graham Ward is found ad- 
ditional data concerning the early Gila Valley settlement. 
It is told that, "the settlers of Brigham City on the Little 
Colorado, getting discouraged because of frequent failures 
of crops and poor prospects, sent explorers out to look for 
new locations. Two went to the San Juan country in Utah, 
two to the Salt River Valley and three, George Lake, 
Andrew Anderson and George Skinner, to the Gila River." 
The journey was via Fort Apache, the arrival at Smith- 
ville being in the latter part of November, 1880. At the 
Graham settlement there was purchase of a water ditch 
and a quit-claim deed to four quarter-sections of land that 
had been farmed by non-Mormons. The record recites, 
"it was merely a rustlers' ranch, possessed by horsethieves 

246 



and speculators who had a small house on it, for which the 
brethren paid about $1800, in cows valued at $35 per head." 

Lake remained in the valley. Anderson and Skinner re- 
turned in December to Brigham City, where the authorities 
of the United Order accepted the purchase. Anderson and 
Skinner started again for the Gila, accompanied by their 
families, by Moses M. Curtis and William Hawkins and 
their families and a number of unmarried men, taking with 
them seed grain, farming implements, cows, sheep and other 
animals. Transportation was by ox teams. Christmas Day 
was spent at St. Joseph on the Little Colorado and New 
Year at Showlow, arrival on the Gila being in January. 
Lake, in the meantime, had been joined by Jorgen Jorgen- 
sen and Jerome J. Adams, the two who had been sent to 
the Salt River Valley. 

The new arrivals at once set at work, clearing their 
lands and putting in grain, raising good crops. The manual 
labor, of the hardest sort, was performed under the con- 
ditions of the United Order and on a diet principally of 
bread and beans. The sheep band was turned over to the 
Church, as profits of the Order, and the wheat and other 
products were divided according to the number of families 
and the number of persons. A stockade fort was built, but 
the homes for months consisted of sheds or tents and even 
of the wagons. In 1884, on the newly-surveyed townsite 
of Graham, was built a meeting house, called the "factory 
house," with mesquite posts and dirt roof and with walls 
only of heavy unbleached muslin, which appears to have 
been called "factory." 

One of the early settlements of the Gila Valley is Mat- 
thews (successively Matthewsville, Fair view and Glenbar), 
founded in December, 1880, by Joseph Matthews and fam- 
ily, from Round Valley, and Wm. R. Waddill. In 1881 they 
built a stockade and though no local Indian depredations 
were known, in that year the Matthews settlers moved 
to Pima for better protection. A townsite was selected 

247 



by the Stake President September 17, 1886, but was not 
occupied. A resident of note was the first district school 
teacher, John F. Nash, who came with his father to Ari- 
zona in 1874, first settling in Williamson Valley near Pres- 
cott. He arrived in the valley in 1881, the progress of the 
family toward Texas stopped on the Gila by the stealing 
of a band of Nash horses by "rustlers." 

Vicissitudes of Pioneering 

Eden, first known as Curtis, lies on the northern side 
of the Gila, nine miles northwest of Pima. It dates from 
early in 1881, when there was arrival from Brigham City, 
Arizona, of a party of United Order settlers, headed by 
Moses M. Curtis. Though other immigrants occupied hold- 
ings nearby, M. M. Curtis and Wm. R. Hawkins were the 
only residents of the present Eden townsite in 1881. The 
men first turned their attention toward the construction of 
a ditch from the river, this completed the following year. 
For a while the young community was on very short 
rations. At times there could be only one meal a day, that 
a meager one of beans, served at noon to the workers, who 
scarcely could summon strength for more than a half day's 
labor. 

Some of the early settlers built boweries of brush under 
which they rolled their covered wagons, to secure better 
protection from the pitiless Arizona summer sun, and with 
no other home for weeks. There were Indian "scares," as 
elsewhere told, and life was far from comfortable, with 
occasional crossing of the Gila at flood to secure protection 
at the more populous Pima. In January, 1882, was a moving 
back to five log houses that had been built on the Curtis 
townsite, but even after that was flight to Pima when word 
came of an Indian raid. In the fall of 1882 eight families 
were living in a little stockade fort that enclosed a half 
acre of ground, near the river. The present townsite was 
located May 10, 1883. 

248 



Gila Communities of the Faith 

Thatcher, present Stake headquarters, derives its name 
from Apostle Moses Thatcher, who was a Christmas visitor 
in 1882, in company with Apostle Erastus Snow. The 
first settler was John M. Moody, who came with his family 
from Utah, arriving when Nature had warm welcome 
indeed, on July 4, 1881. In 1882 he was joined by the Cluff 
and Zufelt families and by James Pace of the Mormon 
Battalion, who built a stockade, and a little later by Hyrum 
Brinkerhoff and wife Margaret, "Aunt Maggie," who 
bought and occupied the Moody place. They were promi- 
nent among the Southern Utah and Muddy pioneers. 

The Thatcher townsite was selected by President Lay- 
ton May 13, 1883, a school district being established the 
following month. Among the arrivals of the following year 
was Samuel Claridge, one of the pioneers of the Muddy 
section. October 19, 1885, the presidency located anew 
townsite about one-half mile to the southward and on 
higher land. Much of the old Moody ranch since the Brin- 
kerhoff purchase has disappeared, from the encroachments 
of the Gila River. 

Bryce, across the river from Pima, dates from January, 
1883, when Ebenezer Bryce, Sr., and sons commenced con- 
struction of a ditch, completed the next year. The first 
house was that of Ebenezer P. Bryce, occupied in Decem- 
ber, 1884. 

Central, between Thatcher and Pima, took its name 
from the Central canal, which irrigates part of the settle- 
ment. Its first settlers were Orson and Joseph Cluff of 
Forest Dale, from which they came southward in the spring 
of 1882. 

The Hubbard settlement is an outgrowth of the Graham 
and Bryce wards and is of comparatively late occupation. 
It is named after Elisha F. Hubbard, Sr., the first ward 
bishop. 

The Layton settlement, named for the first stake presi- 



249 



dent, is one of the most prosperous, and is the third in 
order of population of the St. Joseph Stake wards. The 
first settler was Hyrum H. Tippets, who came January 
13, 1883, direct from Brigham City, Utah. 

The Franklin settlement, above Duncan on the Gila, is 
about seven miles in length, most of it in Arizona, though 
lapping over into New Mexico. Its first Mormon settler 
was Thomas J. Nations, in 1895. He joined, with others 
of the brethren, in taking out a canal. Thomas A. McGrath 
is understood to have been the first settler of the locality. 
The name was given in 1898, at the time of the visit of 
Apostles John Henry Smith and John W. Taylor, and is in 
honor of Franklin D. Richards, an apostle of the Church, 
who in no wise had been associated with Arizona 
affairs. In the same vicinity, wholly in New Mexico, is 
the settlement of Virden, mainly populated by refugees from 
Mexico. In these upper Gila communities the Mormons 
have created a veritable garden, where careless cultivation 
had been known. 

Graham County was created by the Arizona Legislature 
in the spring of 1881, the settlement south of the Gila 
theretofore having been in Pima County. The first county 
seat was Safford, but county government was transferred 
to Solomonville by an act of the Legislature in 1883. In 
1915, after the setting off of Greenlee County, the court- 
house went back to Safford. 

Considering the Lamanites 

In the entertaining flood of reminiscence that comes 
from almost any of the devout pioneers, there often is found 
expression of abiding belief of personal protection extended 
by Omnipotence. Possibly, save in the development of 
character by trials and by tribulation, the average pioneer 
of the faith, from a present viewpoint, would appear to 
have been little favored, yet thankful devotion ever was 
present. 

One story that indicated celestial intervention in time 

250 



of danger, has been told by Orson Cluff. He and several 
brothers and their families were on the road south from 
Forest Dale to the Gila, and had camped at a point twenty 
miles south of Fort Apache. In the morning there was the 
usual prayer, from which the company arose, refreshed in 
spirit, for another hard day's journey. A short time later, 
an Indian told how he was a member of a band of redskins 
that lay in ambush about the Mormon camp that very 
morning. The work of massacre was about to begin when 
the intended victims were seen to drop upon their knees 
and to lift their hands aloft in supplication. The startled 
Indians were overcome by some mysterious power and 
stole away. Possibly they feared that potent "medicine" 
was being made against them, but the Cluffs are sure that 
the Holy Spirit had descended to save them for further 
earthly experience. 

The Gila Valley saw much of Indian rapine in its earlier 
days. The section considered in this chapter lies just east 
of the San Carlos Apache reservation and is flanked on 
the northward by the White Mountain reservation. When 
the California Column, under General Carleton, was estab- 
lished in Arizona in 1863, after beating the Confederates 
back beyond the Rio Grande, it was found necessary to 
establish military stations in that locality. Camp Goodwin, 
named after the first Governor of the Territory, was at 
the lower end of the valley. A number of years after its 
abandonment, there was established, five miles to the east- 
ward, Camp Thomas, maintained until after the final 
subjugation of the hostile Indians. Thomas was a veritable 
guard post for the Mormon settlers. To the southwest 
was Camp Grant, in the northern extension of the Sulphur 
Springs Valley, this post a successor to old Camp Grant, 
which was at the mouth of Aravaipa Creek, at the junction 
of that stream with the San Pedro River. To the north- 
ward was Fort Apache and to the southward Fort 
Bowie. 



251 



The Hostile Chiricahuas 

The native Pinaleno Indians of the San Carlos region, 
while inclined toward spasmodic outbreaks, were not as 
hostile as their western neighbors, the Mohave and Yuma 
Apaches. A very dangerous element was added when, in 
1876, under direction of the army, Agent John P. Clum 
moved to San Carlos 325 Indians of the Chiricahua-Apache 
strain from a reservation in southeastern Arizona. Within 
a few years, 4500 Indians were concentrated at San Carlos. 
The Chiricahuas, unsettled and forever yearning to get 
back to the scene of their marauding along the emigrant 
road to the southward and in Mexico, constantly were 
slipping away from the reservation by individuals and by 
bands, and their highway usually was up the river. In the 
early eighties the settlers along the Gila lived forever in 
terror of the savage foe. The military was efficient. Hard- 
riding troopers would dash forth from one or all of the 
guardian posts whenever danger threatened, and to these 
same troops undoubtedly is due the fact that general 
massacres were not known in and around the Gila Valley 
towns. 

Often the Author finds in the manuscripts of personal 
experiences that have been accumulated by the score in his 
office, a note indicating the conditions under which the land 
was settled. There have been attempts in other parts of 
this work to make clear the fact that the Mormons always 
tried to be friendly with the Indians and suffered without 
protest treatment from the aborigines that would have led 
to the shedding of blood by others. One interesting little 
item of this sort is in a record contributed by Mrs. W. R. 
Teeples. She found the Indians on the Gila River in 1879 
were friendly, possibly too much so. She wrote, "When 
I was cooking pancakes over the fire in our camp, the In- 
dians would sit around watching, and they would grab the 
cakes out of the pan before they were done, so I had to 
cover the pancakes up to keep them for ourselves." 

252 



Mrs. J. N. Stratton wrote of the same period: 

Besides the fear of getting out of food was the greater fear of the 
Indians. They were on the San Carlos reservation and were supposed 
to be peaceful, but bands often went out on the warpath and spread 
terror throughout the country, so the people never knew what to 
expect from them. The mesquite and sage brush were so thick where 
Safford's streets and houses are now, that one could only see a little 
distance, and it was no uncommon occurrence for an Indian to slip 
out from behind the brush and come walking in at the cabin door, 
or put his face up against the window and peer in, if the door happened 
to be closed. One settler who had two doors had her husband nail 
one up so that when the Indians did come to call on them, she could 
stand in the other door and keep them from coming in. The mothers 
never let their children get out of their sight, for fear they would be 
stolen. 

I. E. Solomon and his family had many experiences with 
the Indians, and in several cases narrowly escaped death. 
A number of Solomon's employes were killed in the open 
country toward Clifton. 

An interesting chronicle is from Mrs. Elizabeth Hanks 
Curtis, who came with her family in April, 1881. Inci- 
dentally, she is a descendant of the Hanks family, tracing 
relationship to Abraham Lincoln. A mile above Eden 
they built a log fort. In September this had to be aban- 
doned, word brought by a friendly Indian of the coming 
of a large band of Indians and of imminent danger. Will 
Ransom from Pima provided a raft to cross the river upon 
and the settlers concentrated at Pima. The settlers were 
driven into Pima again in April of the following year, after 
huddling for days in Moses Curtis' cabin. Protection 
came from Fort Thomas. 

Murders by Indian Raiders 

July 19, 1882, Jacob S. Ferrin of Pima was killed under 
circumstances of treachery. A freighting camp, of which 
he was a member, was entered by a number of Apaches, led 
by "Dutchy," escaped from custody at San Carlos. Pre- 
tending amity, they seized the teamsters' guns and fired 

253 



upon their hosts. Ferrin was shot down, one man was 
wounded and the others escaped. 

On the morning of December 1, 1885, Lorenzo and Seth 
Wright were killed by Indians who had been combing the 
valley for horses. The Wrights had started, with members 
of a posse, from Layton, and were joined at Solomonville 
by Sheriff Stevens and two other men, after there had 
been recovered a number of the stolen horses, for the 
pursuers rode harder and faster than the fleeing thieves. 
There had been assumption that the thieves were Mexicans 
and so there was an element of recklessness in the pursuit 
that would have been missing had the truth been known, 
that they were Apaches. The four leading men of the posse 
were ambushed by the redskins, who had halted by the 
roadside. Seth Wright was shot from his horse. His 
brother immediately dismounted and opened fire upon the 
Indians. Lorenzo's right arm was broken by a bullet, and 
then, while he was running, he was shot in the back. 

This same band had killed a man and a boy at Black 
Rock and a herdsman at Bear Springs Flat. 

May 23, 1886, Frank Thurston of Pima, while start- 
ing a lime kiln, six miles from the town, was surprised by 
eight Apaches and killed. This band passed by the Curtis 
settlement, driving off a number of horses. 

Concerning the Indian situation, James H. Martineau, 
on June 1, 1886, wrote that the Apaches then were riding 
in many small bands, but were kept on the move con- 
stantly by the vigorous measures of General Miles, and he 
assumes that the Apache question would have been settled 
had his predecessor, General Crook, been less dilatory. 
The writer expressed his conclusion that in military skill, 
strategy and ability the Indians far excelled their op- 
ponents, and details that fifty or sixty Apaches the year 
before had killed more than 75 white settlers, all the while 
pursued by seventeen companies of United States troops, 
without losing a single Indian. 

254 



Outlawry Along the Gila 

The Mormons of the Gila Valley maintained most 
amicable relations with their neighbors, but occasionally 
had to participate in some of the ordinary frontier episodes. 
James R. Welker, an arrival in Safford in 1883, tells that, 
"The cowboys had things about their own way for a few 
years. They would ride right into a town, go straight to 
the saloon and commence shooting the place up. They 
were expert with the pistol too. I have seen~some very 
wonderful shots among those cowboys. They did not do 
much killing around here, but they were pretty wild and 
did about as they pleased." W. T. Barney wrote, "The 
rustlers gave us quite a bit of trouble, perhaps even more 
than the Indians." 

The peaceful Saints in the Gila Valley undoubtedly 
found much that was foreign to their habits of life. A tale 
of the frolicsome cowboy is told by Isaac P. Robinson of 
Thatcher, who was in Safford in 1884: 

There were but very few houses in Safford then. About the only 
business house was the Glasby building, which had a saloon and also 
a store. The cowboys had things about their own way. They would 
come into the store and take possession. Mr. Glasby would go out 
and leave it to them. . They would shoot up the store, help them- 
selves to what they wanted, pay for everything they had taken, shoot 
up the town and go on. But I don't want to see any more of it. 
You haven't the remotest idea what a lot of trouble they made. This 
was the main route from the north into Mexico and the principal 
rendezvous for a lot of those rough characters. 

In the way of outlawry, the valley had unwelcome no- 
toriety, when from its rougher element was constituted a 
band which, May 11, 1889, ambushed Paymaster J. W. 
Wham of the United States army, on the road between 
Fort Grant and Fort Thomas, and stole about $28,000 in 
gold and silver, intended for the pay of the troops at the 
latter post. An escort of eleven colored infantrymen, led 
by a sergeant, apparently deserted by the Major, fought 
well, but was driven away after five of the soldiers had been 

255 



wounded. Thirteen bandits were understood to have been 
implicated. Eight individuals were arrested. There was 
trial at Tucson, where Wham and the soldiers were notably 
poor witnesses and where the defendants were acquitted. 

A Gray Highway of Danger 

Just as the Mormon settlements on the Little Colorado 
providentially were given assistance by the building of the 
Atlantic and Pacific railroad, just so the struggling pioneers 
on the Gila found benefit in the opening of the silver and 
copper mines at Globe. Freight teams were in demand 
for hauling coke and supplies from the railroad at Willcox 
and Bowie and for hauling back from the mines the copper 
bullion. Much of this freighting was done with great 
teams of mules and horses, veritable caravans, owned by 
firms such as Tully & Ochoa or M. G. Samaniego of Tucson, 
but enough was left for the two and four-horse teams of 
the Mormons, who thus were enabled from the hauling 
of a few tons of coke to provide provisions for their families 
and implements for the tilling of their fields. 

The road from the railroad to Globe ofttimes was a gray 
highway of danger. After leaving the Gila towns, it led 
through the length of the Apache Indian reservation. 
Usually the teams went in sort of military order. The 
larger "outfits" had strict rules for defense, each driver 
with his pistol and rifle and each "swamper" similarly 
armed. Every night the wagons were drawn into a circle, 
within which the horses were corralled or tied to the 
wagon poles, where they were fed. Pickets were kept 
out and care was incessant day and night. 

But, sometimes, a freighter, eager to earn extra pay for 
a quick trip, or wishing to drive ahead of the cloud of dust 
that enveloped each large convoy, would push along by 
himself. Possibly the next day, the train would come to 
the embers of what had been wagons and their contents. 
Nearby would be the bodies of the tortured and murdered 
teamsters. So the careful ones united, remaining at the 

256 



railroad until at least a score of wagons had accumulated, 
and then made their way northward, relatively safe 
through united vigilance. 

In 1899 the Gila Valley, Globe & Northern railroad was 
completed from Bowie, through the Gila Valley towns, to 
Globe, a distance of 124 miles, though the loss to the 
freighters was more than balanced by the general good 
to the community of bettered transportation facilities. 
Right-of-way through the reservation was accorded by the 
Indians after a diplomatic distribution to them by a 
railroad agent of $8000, all in silver coin. 



257 



Chapter Twenty-three 



(Etfrtc anfr (ttfyurclf ^features 

Troublesome River Conditions 

In the memory of Americans still living, the Gila River 
through the Safford region, was a relatively narrow stream, 
over which in places a stone could be tossed. There were 
occasional lagoons, some of them created by beaver dams — 
picturesque, but breeding places for mosquitoes and sources 
of malaria. Camp Goodwin was abandoned because of 
malarial conditions in 1869-70, troops being transferred to 
the new post of Camp Ord (Apache). 

The river situation of later years has been very differ- 
ent indeed from that known to the pioneers. The lagoons 
drained and the underbrush, grass and trees cut away, the 
river floods have had full sweep and, as a result, there has 
been tremendous loss in the washing away of the lower 
lying land. The farms have been pushed back toward the 
mesas. Now under consideration is a comprehensive 
irrigation system that will cost several millions of dollars, 
with a great concrete diversion dam above Solomonville 
and with two head canals that economically will serve both 
sides of the river. 

But in the early days the colonists did what they could, 
not what economically was advisable. They did not have 
such trouble as was known along the Little Colorado and 
their water supply was much larger and somewhat more 
regular. They took out little canals at different points, 
with headworks that were easily replaced when washed 
away. 

For a few years around 1910, there appeared a prospect 

258 



that the Gila Valley farms would have to be abandoned 
unless something could be done to stop the flow of tailings 
from the concentrating mills of the Clifton-Morenci country, 
on the San Francisco River, a tributary of the Gila. The 
finely pulverized rock was brought down in the irrigation 
water and spread out upon the fields in a thick layer, 
almost impervious to the growth of vegetation. Mit 
Simms, then a farmer near Safford, tells that the dried 
tailings upon his farm spread out in a smooth sheet, that 
could be broken like glass, with a blow from a hammer. 
The mining companies refused to heed demand to im- 
pound their tailings flow, and so the matter was taken 
into the courts. Decisions uniformly were with the set- 
tlers, the matter finally being disposed of in their favor in 
the United States Supreme Court. Then the companies, 
using the tailings material for the making of dams, created 
great tailings reservoirs in the hills near their plants, and 
filled up valley after valley with the rejected material. 
Incidentally, they spent in this work enormous sums, 
believed to have been sufficient to have bought all the 
farms of the Gila Valley, at the price put upon them ten 
years ago. This expended money, however, may yet be 
returned, for plans have been set afoot for leaching copper 
treasure out of the tailings banks. 

Artesian water was struck in the Gila Valley in 1887, 
according to John A. Lee, understood to have been the first 
well borer in the artesian district, within which are the 
present towns of Algodon (otherwise Lebanon) and Artesia. 
The first water was struck at a depth of 330 feet and better 
flows were secured with deeper borings down to 1000 feet. 

The first few years of the Gila Valley settlement, every 
alternate section was assumed to be the property of the 
Texas Pacific Railroad Company, a land grant claimed by 
the Southern Pacific. This claim was decided against by 
the United States authorities early in 1885, and the lands 
thus were thrown open to entry by the settlers. Pima was 

259 



on railroad land and filing of its townsite formally was 
accomplished by Mayor W. W. Crockett. 

Basic Law in a Mormon Community 

Interest attaches to the Church commission, dated 
February 20, 1883, received by Christopher Layton on his 
appointment as head of the San Pedro and Gila Valley 
settlers. It was signed by John Taylor and Jos. F. Smith 
of the First Presidency and contains instructions and 
admonitions that might well have served as a basic law 
of any God-fearing community. 

President Layton was instructed to see that the settlers 
did not scatter themselves promiscuously throughout the 
land, that surveys be made for townsites, that the people 
settle in these localities, with facilities for public schools 
and meeting houses, and that due provision be made to 
protect the settlers against depredations of the lawless and 
unprincipled combinations of brigands and other hostile 
marauders. 

A notably interesting paragraph recites, "You will 
understand that our object in the organization of the Stake 
of St. Joseph is to introduce the Gospel into the Mexican 
nation, or that part of it which lies contiguous to your 
present settlement, and also, when prudence shall dictate 
and proper arrangements are entered into, that a settle- 
ment may commence to be made in that country." 

It was recommended, in forming cities either in Arizona 
or Mexico, "care should be had to place them in proper 
localities, convenient to land and water, with careful 
examination of the sanitary conditions. It is the general 
opinion that it is more healthy and salubrious on the 
plateaus or mesas than on the low land, the latter of which 
in your district of country are more or less subject to 
malarial diseases, which ought, always, when practicable, 
to be avoided." 

The streets should be wide and commodious,with public 
squares for church, county, school and ornamental purposes. 

260 




OILA VALLEY" PIONEEBS 

1 — Wm. R. Teeples 2— -Tohn M. Moody 

3 — Jos. K. Rogers 4 — Ebenezer Bryce 5 — Hyrum Brinkerhoff 

ti — Samuel H. Claridge 7 — Frank N. Tyler 




PIONEER WOMEN OF THE GILA VALLEY 

1 — Elizabeth Hanks Curtis 2 — Mrs W. R. Teeples 

3 — Elizabeth Moody 4 — Margaret Brinkerhoff 5 — Elizabeth Layton 
6 — Josephine Wall Rogers 7 — Rebecca Claridge 



School and church affairs should be kept separate. There 
was warning against favoritism in the allotment of town 
lands and a recommendation that the principles of the 
United Order be approached, without the placing of the 
communities under rigid rules. 

Another interesting paragraph recites, "The order of 
Zion when carried out, will be that all men should act in 
the interest of and for the welfare of Zion, and individual- 
ism, private speculation and covetousness will be avoided, 
and that all act in the interest of all and for the welfare 
of the whole community. We may not, at present, be 
able to carry out these ideas in full, but without any 
special formality or rule, we may be approaching these 
principles as fast as circumstances will admit of it. We 
profess to be acting and operating for God, and for His 
Kingdom, and we are desirous that our acts should be in 
consonance with our professions." 

In the selection of elders, care was enjoined that all 
such persons should be honorable, free from any per- 
nicious or degrading habits, "for if men cannot control 
themselves, they are not fit to be rulers or leaders in the 
Kingdom of God." 

There was special injunction that the Lamanites, the 
Indians, be treated with all consideration and shown that 
the Mormons do not teach one thing and practice another. 
The Indians should be taught to be "friendly with the 
government of the United States or Mexico and to live at 
peace with one another, to be chaste, sober and honest 
and subject to the law of God." 

Tithing of one-tenth was stipulated as in the interest of 
the people. The new leader was advised that, "God has 
placed you as a watchman on the walls of Zion and He will 
hold you accountable for your acts," and he was directed 
to see that the laws of God were carried out in his com- 
munity, irrespective of persons or families. 

261 



Layton Soldier and Pioneer 

Christopher Layton was a rough diamond, almost 
illiterate, yet possessed of much energy and a keen, practical 
judgment that served him and his people well through the 
course of a long life. He was an Englishman, born in 
Bedfordshire, March 8, 1821. His first practical expe- 
rience was at 7 years of age, when he kept crows from the 
wheatfields for the large salary of 56 cents a week, boarding 
himself. In 1843 he crossed the ocean. Elsewhere is 
noted his experience with the Mormon Battalion. Follow- 
ing discharge, for a few years he lived in California, finally 
taking ship from San Francisco back to Liverpool, where he 
arrived in March, 1850. On the same ship's return, James 
Pennell led 250 converts to America, landing at New 
Orleans proceeding by river to St. Louis, and then Utah. 

In September, 1852, Layton first saw Salt Lake, arriv- 
ing at the head of an expedition of 52 wagons, including 
the first threshing outfit in Utah. In 1856 he was in the 
Carson Valley of Nevada, where he proceeded toward the 
very notable undertaking of building a wagon road across 
the Sierra Nevadas to Hangtown, early Placerville. With 
the rest of the Utah Saints, he was recalled to Salt Lake in 
the fall of 1857. 

Layton arrived at St. David February 24, 1883. In 
May he organized wards on the Gila, at Pima, Thatcher, 
Graham and Curtis, under Jos. K. Rogers, John M. Moody, 
Jorgen Jorgensen and Moses Curtis. In March of the next 
year, he organized Layton branch near Safford. 

President Layton's own story of his advent in the Gila 
Valley includes: 

The Saints were wanting to settle close together, so I bought a 
600-acre tract of land of a syndicate living in Tucson. Then I bought 
out the squatters' rights and improvements by taking quit-claim 
deeds of them. Thus I was in a position to help the Saints to get 
homes. In July I bought 320 acres of Peter Anderson (adjoining the 
other tract) and laid it out in a townsite which we named Thatcher. 
I built a three-roomed adobe house in Thatcher ward (it being the 

262 



second house built on the townsite) and we moved into it. I gave 
a lot for a schoolhouse and the few Saints who were settling here then 
built an adobe building on it. The mesquite was so thick that when 
we tried to go any place we were very fortunate if we did not get 
lost. I gave the Seventies a lot, but they never made any use of it; 
also gave the bishop a lot for tithing purposes. The Academy was 
afterward built on it. 

Layton, aided by his many sons, was active in business, 
as well as in the faith, operating stores, a flour mill, an ice 
factory and a number of stage lines, one of which stretched 
all the way from Bowie Station through the Gila Valley, 
to Globe, and, through the Tonto Basin, to Pine and Fort 
Verde, the longest stage mail line in the Southwest at the 
time. 

The transfer of headquarters of St. Joseph Stake ap- 
pears to have been determined upon very soon after the 
arrival of Layton at St. David. One of his counselors, 
David P. Kimball, visited Smithville March 10, 1883, and 
in May Layton himself was on the ground, visiting Smith- 
ville (Pima) and Safford. There was approval of the new 
settlement of Curtis on May 10 and on the 13th was 
location of the townsite of Thatcher. 

At this time there appears to have been determination 
to move headquarters of the Stake from St. David to Smith- 
ville, where the first formal quarterly conference of the 
Stake was held June 3. No record can be found of this 
transfer nor of the subsequent change to Thatcher. 

A New Leader on the Gila 

In 1897 President Layton's health declined and on 
January 27, 1898, he was released from his spiritual office, 
to which was appointed Andrew Kimball, this with a letter 
from President Wilford Woodruff, expressing the highest 
appreciation of Layton's labors. Christopher Layton left 
Arizona June 13, 1898, for his old home in Kaysville, Utah, 
where he died August 7. At a reunion, about six years 
ago, of the Layton descendants and their families, were 
present 594 individuals. 

263 



Andrew Kimball, successor to the presidency of St. 
Joseph Stake, had formal installation January 30, 1898, at 
the hands of Apostles John Henry Smith and John W. 
Taylor, at the same time there being general reorganization 
of the Church subdivision. President Kimball, who still 
most actively is in office, is a son of the noted Apostle 
Heber C. Kimball, First Counselor to President Brigham 
Young. President Kimball from the very first showed keen 
enthusiasm in the work of upbuilding his community. In 
October of the year of his installation he returned to Utah, 
like the spies returned from the land of Canaan, bringing 
equally large stories of the fertility of the new land. In- 
stead of bearing a huge bunch of grapes, he had to take 
with him photographs, in order to secure reception of his 
stories of corn that was sixteen feet tall, Johnson grass 
eight feet high, a sweet potato that weighed 36 pounds, of 
peaches too big to go into the mouth of a preserving jar, 
sunflower stalks that were used for fence poles, weeds that 
had to be cut with an ax and sugar cane that grew four 
years from one planting. On the strength of his en- 
thusiasm, very material additions were made to the popula- 
tion of the Gila Valley, and the President even yet keeps 
busy in missionary work, not only of his Church, but work 
calculated to assist in the upbuilding of the Southwest 
along irrigated agricultural lines. 

Church Academies of Learning 

Every Mormon community gives especial attention to 
its schools, for education in the regard of the people follows 
closely after their consideration of spiritual affairs. The 
normal schools of the State always have had a very large 
percentage of the youth of the faith, training to be teachers. 

Three of the four Arizona Stakes maintain academies, 
wherein the curriculum also carries religious instruction. 
The largest of the three Church schools, at Thatcher, 
lately was renamed the Gila Normal College. It was 
established in January, 1891, under instruction that had 

264 



been received over two years before from the genera 
Church Board of Education. Its first sessions were in 
the meetinghouse at Central, with Joy Dunion as principal. 
The second year's work was at Thatcher, where the old 
adobe meetinghouse was occupied. Thereafter a tithing 
house was used and was expanded for the growing neces- 
sities of the school, which has been in continuous operation 
ever since, with the exception of two years following 1896, 
when the finances of the Stake were at low ebb. The acad- 
emy was revived on assumption of Andrew Kimball to the 
Stake Presidency, under Principal Emil Maeser, he a son 
of one of Utah's most noted educators. Andrew C. Peter- 
son has been in charge of the school most of the time since 
1906. In 1909 was occupied a new building, erected and 
furnished at a cost of about $35,000. Leland H. Creer now 
is principal. 

At St. Johns the St. Johns Stake Academy was founded 
January 14, 1889, with John W. Brown as its first principal. 
The present building was dedicated December 16, 1900. 
Howard Blazzard now is in active charge, while Stake 
President David K. Udall, first president of the Academy's 
Board, still occupies the same position, after 27 years of 
service. 

The Snowflake Stake Academy was founded, with E. 
M. Webb in charge, only a week later than that of St. 
Johns. The two institutions for many years were the only 
means provided for local education, beyond the grammar 
grades. At Snowflake industrial and agricultural courses 
are given prominence in the curriculum. Thanksgiving 
Day, 1910, fire destroyed the large school building, which 
was replaced by a more modern structure, that cost 
$35,000 and that was dedicated Thanksgiving Day, 1913. 
For years the school was directed by Joseph Peterson. 

At Mesa, Chandler and Gilbert are maintained semi- 
naries, mainly for advanced instruction in Church doctrine. 



265 



Chapter Twenty-four 



Looking Over the Land 

The Mormon settlement of Mexico, as elsewhere told, 
was a cherished plan of Brigham Young, who saw to the 
southward a land wherein his Church, its doctrines and 
influence could find room for expansion. He died while 
the southern migration started by him still was far short 
of a Mexican destination, though that country had been 
explored to an extent by several missionary parties. 

The first Mormons to enter Mexico were the soldiers of 
the Mormon Battalion who, in 1846, passed south of the 
Gila in Mexican territory, and then entered the present 
Mexico by a swing of the column southward from the San 
Bernardino ranch around to the valley of the San Pedro. 
The D. W. Jones party was the first missionary expedition 
into Mexico, crossing the Rio Grande at Paso del Norte, 
the present Juarez, January 7, 1876. The Pratt-Stewart 
party, including Meliton G. Trejo, was in northern Mexico 
early in '77, and small missionary parties followed there- 
after from time to time. 

November 15, 1879, Apostle Moses Thatcher was in 
Mexico City with J. Z. Stewart and Trejo, there founding 
the first organization of the Church within the Republic. 

Decided impetus was given the southward movement 
when it became evident that the national prosecution 
against plural marriage was to be pushed to the extreme. 
January 4, 1883, with the idea of finding an asylum for the 
Saints in Mexico, Apostle Thatcher traveled from St. 
David on the San Pedro, to the southeast as far as Corrali- 

266 



tos, where some arrangement was made for lands. In the 
following September, another party from St. David ex- 
plored the country along the Babispe River. Still more 
important, November 2, 1884, Apostles Brigham Young, 
Jr., and Heber J. Grant investigated the Yaqui River 
section of Sonora, this with three companies of prospective 
settlers from the Salt River, Gila and San Pedro Valleys, 
together with some additions from Salt Lake. 

In January, 1885, migration was under personal charge 
of President John Taylor, who, after a notable conference 
at St. David, as noted in the history of that section, led a 
party southward into Sonora and held a satisfactory con- 
ference with Governor Torres, yet made no settlement. 
In the same month, however, notation has been found 
that Alexander F. Macdonald was at Corralitos, Chihua- 
hua, from Mesa. A few parties were in that locality in 
February, 1885, one expedition of seventy having come 
from Arizona, under Captain Noble. Something of a set- 
back was known when, on April 9, 1885, the Governor of 
Chihuahua ordered departure of all Mormon settlers 
within his State. Apostles Young and Thatcher, May 18, 
visited the City of Mexico and secured from the federal 
government permission for the immigrants to remain. 

Colonization in Chihuahua 

It was in 1886 that the main Mormon exodus traveled 
across the border. The way had been prepared by the 
organization of a Colorado corporation, the Mexican 
Colonization & Agricultural Company, this under the 
management of Anthony W. Ivins, a northern Arizona 
pioneer. This company had been granted the usual 
colonists' privileges, including the introduction, without 
duty, of livestock, agricultural implements and household 
effects, but had no special concessions. It was given the 
usual exemption from taxation for ten years. Through 
this company, land was acquired at Colonia Juarez and 
Colonia Diaz, by purchase from Ignacio Gomez del Campo 

267 



and others. Payment was made with money that had been 
donated in Utah and from Church funds. 

Colonies were established, in which were consolidated 
the Mormons already south of the line and the newcomers. 
Diaz was on the Janos River, near the Mexican town of 
Ascension, and Colonia Juarez was 75 miles upstream on a 
branch of the Janos river, the Piedras Verdes. At the 
former place about 100,000 acres were acquired and at the 
latter 25,000. A prior settlement at Corralitos had been 
established in the fall of 1884. Juarez had the first meeting- 
house, built January 31, 1886, but the town had to be 
moved two miles, in January, 1887, on discovery that the 
site was outside of the lands that had been purchased. 

Largely from data secured from Mr. Ivins is found 
much of detail concerning northern Mexican settlement. 
One important step was the acquirement in 1886, of 
100,000 acres of Mexican government timber land in the 
Sierra Madre Mountains, near Colonia Juarez, and on this 
tract was established Colonia Pacheco, wherein the main 
industry was lumbering. Then two other mountain tracts 
were acquired, of 6000 acres each, upon which were estab- 
lished Colonia Garcia and Colonia Chuichupa, sixteen 
miles to the southwest of Colonia Juarez. In 1889 was 
established Colonia Dublan, upon a 60,000-acre tract that 
was most valuable of all, considered agriculturally. Natural- 
ly this became the strongest of all the settlements of the 
colonist company. 

There had been exploration, however, to the westward, 
in the State of Sonora, and in 1896, a tract of 110,000 acres 
was acquired on the Babispe River. There was estab- 
lished Colonia Oaxaca. The land was mainly valuable for 
grazing, but some good farming land was along the river. 
Twenty-five miles below Oaxaca, three years later was 
acquired a tract of 25,000 acres, whereon Colonia Morelos 
was established, to be the center of an agricultural section, 
with attached grazing land. 

268 



Prosperity in an Alien Land 

As colonization generally was directed from a central 
agency, each of the colonies had somewhat the same method 
of establishment and of operation, this founded upon the 
experience of the people in Utah and Arizona. There 
would be laid out a townsite, near which would be small 
tracts of garden land, and farther away larger tracts of 
agricultural and grazing land, sold to the colonists at cost 
with ample time for payment, title remaining in the com- 
pany until all the purchase price had been paid. In each 
colony one of the very first public works was erection of a 
schoolhouse, used as a house of worship and for public 
hall, as well. Graduates from the colony grammar schools 
could be sent to an academy at Colonia Juarez, where 
four years' high school work was given. Skilled teachers 
were secured wherever possible. Instruction was free, 
both to the children of the colonists and to the Mexicans. 
Wherever sufficient school maintenance could not be pro- 
vided, the deficiency was made up by the Church. 

In each colony the rough homes of adobe or rock later 
were replaced by houses of lumber or brick, until, it is told, 
these Mexican towns were among the best built known in 
the Southwest. 

Agriculture was notably successful. There were fine 
orchards, vegetables were abundant and good crops of 
grain and potatoes were known. The best breeds of cattle 
and horses were imported and improved agricultural 
machinery was brought in. Hundreds of miles of roads 
were constructed by the colonists, turned over to the 
government without cost, and taxation was cheerfully paid 
on the same basis as known by neighboring Mexican settle- 
ments. 

Wherever water could be developed were well-surveyed 
ditches, heading on the Casas Grandes, Janos and Babispe 
Rivers and their tributaries, though, without reservoirs, 
there often was shortage of water. Water power was used 

269 



for the operation of grist and lumber mills and even for 
electric lighting. By 1912 there were five lumber and 
shingle mills, three grist mills, three tanneries, a shoe 
factory and other manufacturing industries and there was 
added a telephone system, reaching all Chihuahua colonies. 

In general, relations with the Mexican government and 
with the neighboring Mexicans appear to have been cor- 
dial. Possibly the best instance of this lies in an anecdote 
concerning the visit to the Chihuahua State Fair of Presi- 
dent Porfirio Diaz. There he saw a remarkable exhibit of 
industry and frugality presented by the Mormon colonies, 
including saddles and harness, fruit, fresh and preserved, 
and examples of the work of the schools. Then it was the 
General fervently exclaimed, "What could I not do with 
my beloved Mexico if I only had more citizens and settlers 
like the Mormons." 

The colonists took no part in the politics of the country. 
Only a few became Mexican citizens. Junius S. Romney 
stated that in each settlement pride was taken in main- 
taining the best ideals of American government. Occa- 
sionally there was irritation, mainly founded upon the dif- 
ference between the American and Mexican judicial 
systems. According to Ammon M. Tenney, in all the years 
of Mormon occupation, not a single colonist was convicted 
of a crime of any sort whatever. In 1912 the colonists 
numbered 4225. 

Abandonment of the Mountain Colonies 

At the break-up of the Diaz government, May 25, 1911, 
fear and disorder succeeded peaceful conditions that had 
been known in the mountain settlements. Sections of 
Chihuahua were dominated by Villa, Salazar, Lopez, 
Gomez and other revolutionary leaders. A volume might 
be written upon the experiences of the colonists on the 
eastern side of the mountains. There would appear to have 
been little prejudice against them and little actual an- 
tagonism, but they had amassed a wealth that was needed 

270 



by the revolutionary forces, and there were recurring de- 
mands upon them for horses, wagons, supplies, ammunition 
and finally for all weapons. Patience and diplomacy were 
needed in the largest degree in the conferences with the 
Mexican military leaders. Soon it was evident, however, 
that nothing remained but flight to the United States. 
July 29, 1912, most of the settlers were hurried aboard a 
train, almost without time in which to change their cloth- 
ing. The stores and public buildings were closed. The 
colonists were huddled, with small personal property, into 
boxcars or cattle cars and hauled from Colonia Dublan to 
El Paso. There, there was immediate assistance by the City 
of El Paso and the United States government, soon re- 
inforced by friends and relatives in Arizona and Utah. 
At one time 1500 Mormon refugees were encamped in El 
Paso. 

A. W. Ivins tells: 

As soon as the colonists were gone, a campaign of looting and 
destruction was commenced by the Mexican revolutionist? and local 
Mexicans near the colonies. The stores were broken into and looted 
of hundreds of thousands of dollars worth of merchandise. Private 
homes were treated in the same manner. Livestock was appropriated, 
until almost every available thing was carried away or destroyed. 
There was little wanton destruction of property except at Colonia 
Diaz, where the better part of the residences and public buildings 
was burned. The homes and farm buildings were not destroyed. 

Some of the colonists returned as soon as a degree of 
safety was assured, to check up the property remaining and 
to plan for the eventual return of their people. But again 
there had to be an exodus, this late in December, 1915. 
At that time it is told that Villa was only a few miles away, 
preparing to march upon the Mormon settlements, with 
all orders given to that end. But in the morning the plans 
were changed, apparently by celestial intervention, and he 
marched his men in another direction, into the Galiana 
Valley. 

On one of the flights, after all but the most vigorous 
of the men had departed, there came peremptory demand 

271 



for surrender of all arms and ammunition. Some guns were 
surrendered, but the best had been deposited at a moun- 
tain rendezvous. To that point the men hurried and, well- 
armed and well-mounted, made their way by mountain 
trails to the border, avoiding conflict with Mexican bands 
that sought to bar the way. 
Sad Days for the Sonora Colonists 

In 1905 was known a disastrous flood, which at Oaxaca 
swept away forty brick houses, though without loss of life. 
At Morelos a number of houses were swept away and about 
1000 acres of choice farming land was rendered worthless. 
Then Morelos and Oaxaca colonists in the Batepito Valley, 
nine miles north of Morelos, founded Colonia San Jose, 
with new canals, in addition to those of the Babispe. In 
1912, Colonia Morelos had in granary over 50,000 bushels 
of wheat, while the orchards, gardens and alfalfa fields had 
produced an abundance. These Sonora colonists had 4000 
acres of cultivated and fenced lands. 

A flour mill was operated, succeeding one that had been 
destroyed by fire of incendiary origin. The Morelos canal 
had cost $12,000. Many local industries had been estab- 
lished, a good schoolhouse was in each settlement and no 
saloons were tolerated. In general, there was good treat- 
ment from the national Mexican government, though 
"local authorities had demands called very oppressive and 
overbearing." 

War came to the western colonies in November, 1911, 
on the arrival of a band of seventy men under Isidro 
Escobosa, repulsed at El Tigre and fleeing to Morelos, 
followed by federal cavalry, who are reported to have been 
at least as destructive as the bandits. Thereafter was con- 
tinuous grief for the colonists. In June, 1500 federals were 
quartered on the streets and in the school buildings at 
Morelos, with open depredations upon the settlers' personal 
property, and scandalous conditions from which no appeal 
was effective. There then was demand for wagons and team- 

272 



sters to accompany the federals. The settlers sent their 
horses into secret places in the mountains and thus saved 
most of them. Much the same conditions were known at 
Oaxaca. 

When it became evident that Mexican conditions were 
unendurable, the sick and the older people were sent into 
the United States. August 30, 1912, following news that 
the rebel Salazar, was marching into Sonora, a large num- 
ber of women and children were sent northward. Sixty- 
wagons constituted the expedition, carrying 450 people. 
The journey was through a rough country, in which there 
was one fatal accident, and in the rainy season, with atten- 
dant hardship. At Douglas was cordial reception, with 
assistance by the United States and by citizens. September 
3, still more of the women and children went northward, 
leaving about 25 men in the colonies, as guards. 

Occasional parties kept up connection between the bor- 
der and the colonies for some time thereafter. A few of the 
expeditions were captured by the Mexicans and robbed. 

The colonies had been entirely abandoned for some 
time when a Mormon party from Douglas returned on a 
scouting trip. According to a chronicler of the period: 

On arriving at the colonies they found that every house had been 
looted and everything of value taken, sewing machines and furniture 
ruthlessly smashed up and lying around as debris, while house organs, 
which were to be found in nearly every Mormon home, were heaps of 
kindling wood. The carcasses of dead animals lay about the streets, 
doors and windows were smashed in, stores gutted and the contents 
strewn everywhere about, while here and there a cash register or 
some other modern appliance gave evidence of the hand of prejudice- 
destroying ignorance. 

In October, Consul Dye of Douglas made a formal 
inspection. 

Some of the colonists returned when conditions appar- 
ently had bettered, and there is at hand a record of what 
may be considered to have been the final abandonment. 
In the first days of May, 1914, at Douglas, 92 Americans 

273 



from the three Sonora colonies, arrived in 21 wagons, 
being the last of the colonists. They practically had been 
ordered out, after having been notified by the American 
Secretary of State that the protection of their country 
would not be extended to them. Most of their property 
was left behind, at the mercy of the Mexican authorities. 

Congressional Inquiry 

In September, 1912, at El Paso, was an investigation 
under the terms of a Senate resolution, which sought to find 
whether the Mexican troubles had been incited by American 
citizens or corporations. Senator Smith of Michigan was 
chairman of the committee. At the hearings there was 
repeated inquiry apparently seeking to demonstrate that 
the Standard Oil Company, to a degree, was responsible 
for the Madera revolution. There also was considerable 
inquiry, apparently hostile, seeking to define ulterior rea- 
sons why the Mormons should have chosen Mexico as an 
abiding place. The investigation covered all parts of 
Mexico where American interests had suffered, and only 
incidentally touched the Mormon settlements. There was 
ample evidence to the effect that the Mormons retained 
their American citizenship and American customs, that 
they had lived in amity with the former stable Mexican 
government, that any troubles they may have had were 
not due to any actions of their own, but to the desire fo 
loot on the part of the roaming national and revolutionary 
soldiery and that their departure was forced and necessary. 
No especial definition seems to have been given to the exact 
amount of the loss suffered, but there was agreement that 
the damage done to these American citizens was very large. 
At the outbreak of the revolution, according to evidence 
presented, guarantees had been received by the Mormons 
from both of the major Mexican factions, but, when these 
guarantees were referred to, General Salazar sententiously 
observed, "They are but words." 

274 



Repopulat ion of the Mexican Colonies 

A few valiant souls returned to the colonies and re- 
mained as best they could, forming nuclei for others who 
have drifted back from time to time, though neither their 
going nor coming was under direct Church instruction. 

Early in 1920, President J. C. Bentley of the Juarez 
Stake told of the revival of the Mexican missions, and in 
the latter part of the same year, A. W. Ivins, returning 
from the Chihuahua colonies, told that 779 colonists were 
found, approximately one-fifth of the total number of 
refugees. To a degree their property had been maintained 
and their orchards kept alive by the few who had remained 
over the troublous period. The academy at Colonia Juarez 
had been running some time, with 100 students. He told 
of the great work of reconstruction that would have to be 
done, in restoration of fences and homes, and expressed 
confidence that all now would be well under the more stable 
government that has been provided in the southern repub- 
lic. 

There was restoration of order in Mexico in 1920 and 
assumption of an apparently stable political government 
under President Alvaro Obregon, a Sonora citizen, with 
whom is associated P. Elias Calles, who had somewhat to 
do with the Morelos-Oaxaca troubles. Assurances have 
been given that protection will be extended to all immi- 
grants, the Mormon land titles have been accepted and a 
fresh movement southward has been started across the 
border. But there are many, possibly a half of those who 
fled, who will not return. They have established them- 
selves, mainly in Arizona, under conditions they do not 
care to leave. So, it is probable, further extension south- 
ward of the Church plans of agricultural settlement will be 
a task that will lie upon the shoulders of a younger gen- 
eration. 



275 



Chapter TwerUy-five 



Oases Have Grown in the Desert 

The Mormons of Arizona today are not to be considered 
in the same manner as have been their forebears. The 
older generation came in pilgrimages, wholly within the 
faith, sent to break the wilderness for generations to come. 
These pioneers must be considered in connection with their 
faith, for through that faith and its supporting Church were 
they sent on their southward journeyings. Thus it happens 
that "Mormon settlement" was something apart and dis- 
tinctive in the general development of Arizona and of the 
other southwestern sections into which Mormon influ- 
ences were taken. It has not been sought in this work 
even to infer that Mormons in anywise had loftier aspira- 
tions than were possessed by any other pioneer people of 
religious and law-abiding sort. However, there must be 
statement that the Mormons were alone in their idea of 
extension in concrete agricultural communities. Such 
communities were founded on well-developed ideals, that 
had nothing in common with the usual frontier spirit. They 
contained no drinking places or disorderly resorts and in 
them rarely were breaches of the peace. Without argu- 
ment, this could have been accomplished by any other 
religious organization. Something of the sort has been 
done by other churches elsewhere in America. But in the 
Southwest such work of development on a basis of religion 
was done only by the Mormons. 

There was need for the sustaining power of Celestial 
Grace upon the average desert homestead, where the 
fervent sun lighted an expanse of dry and unpromising 

276 



land. The task of reclamation in the earlier days would 
have been beyond the ability and resources of any colonists 
not welded into some sort of mutual organization. This 
welding had been accomplished among the Mormons even 
before the wagon trains started southward. Thereafter 
all that was needed was industry, as directed by American 
intelligence. 

Prosperity Has Succeeded Privation 

Today the Mormon population of Arizona does not 
exceed 25,000, within a total population of over 300,000. 
The relative percentage of strength, however, is larger than 
the figures indicate, this due, somewhat, to the fact that 
the trend of Mormon progress still is by way of cultivation 
of the soil. Of a verity, a family head upon a farm, 
productive and independent, is of larger value to the com- 
munity and of more importance therein than is the average 
city dweller. 

The immigrant from Utah who came between 1876 and 
1886 no longer has the old ox-bowed wagon. His travel 
nowadays is by automobile. His log or adobe hut has been 
replaced by a handsome modern home. His children have 
had education and have been reared in comfort that never 
knew lack of food. Most of the Mormon settlements no 
longer are exclusively Mormon. There has come a time 
when immigration, by rail, has surrounded and enveloped 
the foundations established by the pioneers. 

To the newer generation this work is addressed es- 
pecially, though its dedication, of right, is to the men and 
women who broke the trails and whose vision of the future 
has been proven true. Many of the pioneers remain and 
share with their children in the benefits of the civilization 
that here they helped to plant. The desert wilderness has 
been broken and in its stead oases are expanding, oases 
filled with a population proud of its Americanism, pros- 
perous through varied industry and blessed with con- 
sideration for the rights of the neighbor. 

277 



BIBLIOGRAPHY 



Bancroft, Hubert Howe, 

Bartlett, John R., 
Beadle, S. H., 

Church Chronology, 
Church Historian'sjOffice, 
Cooke, Col. P. St. George, 

Dellenbaugh, F. S., 



Donaldson, Thomas, 

Englehardt, Rev. Zephyrin, 

Farish, Thos. E., 

Fish, Joseph, 
Gregory, Herbert, 
Hamblin, Jacob, 

Hinton, R. J., 

Hodge, F. W., 

James, Dr. Geo. Wharton, 

Jenson, Andrew, 

Jones, D. W., 

Layton, Christopher, 

McClintock, Jas. H., 



History of Arizona and New Mexico, His- 
tory of Nevada, History of California: 
San Francisco, 1889. 

Personal Narrative: Appleton, 1854. 

Western Wilds: Jones Bros., Cincinnati. 
1878. 

Deseret News, Salt Lake. 

Mss. data of Arizona Stakes and Wards. 

Conquest of New Mexico and California: 
Putnam's Sons, New York, 1878. 

Breaking the Wilderness: Putnam's Sons, 
1908. The Romance of the Colorado 
River: 1909. A Canyon Voyage, New 
York, 1908. 

Moqui Pueblo Indians: Census Bureau, 
1893. 

Missions of California: 4 vols., Barry Co., 
San Francisco, 1905-15. 

History of Arizona: 8 vols., Filmer Co., 
San Francisco, 1915-18. 

Mss. History of Arizona. 

The Navajo Country: Interior Dept., 1916. 

Personal Narrative, by Little: Deseret 
News, 1909. 

Handbook to Arizona: Payot-Upham, San 
Francisco, 1878. 

Handbook of the American Indians: Bu- 
reau of American Ethnology. 

In and Around the Grand Canyon : Little- 
Brown Co., Boston, 1900. 

Biographical Encyclopedia: 3 vols. Des- 
eret News, 1900, 1910, 1920. 

Forty Years Among the Indians: Salt Lake, 
1890. 

Autobiography (Mrs. Selina L. Phillips, 
John Q. Cannon) : Deseret News, 1911. 

History of Arizona: 2 vols., Clarke Co., 
Chicago, 1916. 



279 



Munk, Dr. J. A., Arizona Sketches: Grafton Press, N. Y., 

1905. 
Powell, J. W., Canyons of the Colorado: Flood- Vincent, 

Meadville, Penn., 1895. 
Roberts, B. H., History of the Mormon Church: Salt Lake. 

Standage, Henry, Mss. Story of Mormon Battalion. 

Twitchell, Ralph W., Leading Facts of New Mexican History: 

Torch Press, Cedar Rapids, la., 1911. 
Tyler, Daniel, Mormon Battalion: Salt Lake, 1881. 

Whitney, Orson F., History of Utah: 3 vols., Geo. Q. Cannon 

Co., Salt Lake, 1892. 



280 



MORMON SETTLEMENT PLACE 
NAMES 



(Capital letters indicate present settlement names) 
See map of Arizona, page 309 

ADAIR, Fools Hollow— 2 J^ m. w. of Showlow 

ALGODON, Lebanon— 7 m. se. of Thatcher 

ALMA, Stringtown — about 1 m. w. of Mesa 

Allen City, Allen Camp, Cumorah, ST. JOSEPH— Little7 Colorado 

settlement 
ALPINE, Frisco, Bush Valley— 60 m. se. of St. Johns 
Apache Springs — at Forest Dale 
Apache Springs — sw. of Pinetop, Cooley's last ranch 
Amity and Omer, Union, EAGAR — upper Round Valley 
Arivaipa Canyon — western route Gila Valley to San Pedro 
ARTESIA— in Gila Valley, about 18 m. se. of Thatcher 
ASHURST, Redlands, Cork— about 15 m. nw. of Thatcher 

Badger Creek — on Mormon wagon road 10 m. w. of Lee's Ferry 

Bagley, Walker, TAYLOR— 3 m. s. of Snowflake 

Baflenger, Brigham City — was Little Colorado town 

Beaver Dams, LITTLEFIELD, Millersburg— nw. corner of State 

Beaver Ranch, Woolf Ranch, Lone Pine Crossing, Reidhead — 12 

m. s. of Snowflake 
Berardo, Horsehead Crossing, HOLBROOK — on Little Colorado 
Binghampton — 6 m. n. of Tucson, near Ft. Lowell 
Bisbee — in se. Arizona, near Mexican border 
Bitter Springs — on Mormon road, 18 m. s. of Lee's Ferry 
Black Falls — on Little Colorado, 56 m. s. of Moen Copie 
BLUEWATER — in New Mexico on rr. 107 m. w. of Albuquerque 
Bonelli's, STONE'S FERRY— near mouth of Virgin r. 
Brigham City, Ballenger — was Little Colorado r. settlement 
Buckskin Mountains — between Kanab and Colorado r. 
BUNKER VILLE— Muddy settlement, 45 m. sw. of St. George 
Burke Tanks — On road Pleasant Valley to Grand Falls 
BRYCE— in Gila Valley, 2 m. n. of Pima 
Bush Valley, Frisco, ALPINE— 60 m. se. of St. Johns 

CALLVILLE, Call's Landing — 16 m. w. of mouth of Virgin r. 
CEDAR RIDGE — on Mormon road, 33 m. s. of Lee's Ferry 
Cedar Ridge — 10 m. ne. of Pleasant Valley 

Cedar Springs — Barney & Norton Double "N" ranch, 30 m. sw. of 
Thatcher 



281 



CENTRAL— 3 m. w. of Thatcher, in Gila Valley 

CHANDLER— 8 m. s. of Mesa 

Clark's Ranch — Just off Ft. Apache road, near Showlow 

Clay Springs — Snowflake Stake 

Cluff's Cienega — 6 m. e. of Piaetop, embraces new town of Cooley 

COLTER— 17 m. se. of Springerville 

Columbine — near top of Mt. Graham, Graham Co. 

COOLEY — at lumber camp near Pinetop, rr. terminus 

Cooley's ranch — At Showlow — C. E. Cooley's first ranch 

Cooley's ranch — where C. E. Cooley died, sw. of Pinetop 

Cumorah, Allen's Camp, ST. JOSEPH — Little Colorado settlement 

CONCHO, Erastus — about half way between Snowflake and St. Johns 

Cork, Redlands, ASHURST— 15 m. nw. of Thatcher 

Crossing of the Fathers, Vado de los Padres, El Vado, Ute Crossing, 

Ute Ford — Colorado river crossing just n. of Utah line 
Curtis, EDEN — about 15 m. nw. of Thatcher, in Gila Valley 

DOUGLAS — near Mexican border, se. Arizona 

EAGAR, Round Valley — 2 m. s. of Springerville 

Eagle Valley — upper end of Muddy Valley 

Eastern Arizona Stake — 1878. Included wards e. of Holbrook in 

ne. Arizona 
East Pinedale, PINEDALE— 15 m. sw. of Snowflake 
East Verde — Mazatzal City — was near Payson, in n. Tonto Basin 
EDEN, Curtis — about 15 m. nw. of Thatcher in Gila Valley 
Ellsworth — was \% m. s. of Showlow 
Emery — w. of Fort Thomas in Gila Valley 
Enterprise — was near San Jose, 15 m. e. of Thatcher 
Erastus, CONCHO — about half way between Snowflake and St. Johns 
Eureka Springs — in Arivaipa Valley about 25 m. sw. of Thatcher 

Fairview, LAKESIDE, Woodland— about 30 m. s. of Snowflake 
Fairview, Matthews, GLENBAR — 10 m. nw. of Thatcher in Gila 

Valley 
Fools Hollow, ADAIR — in ravine 2J^ m. w. of Showlow 
Forest Dale — 8 m. sw. of Showlow 

FORT DEFIANCE— near N. M. line 30 m. n. of Santa Fe rr. 
Fort Milligan — was 1 m. w. of present Eagar 

Fort Moroni, Fort Rickerson — 7 m. nw. of Flagstaff in LeRoux Flat 
Fort Thomas — in Gila Valley, 22 m. nw. of Thatcher 
Fort Utah, Utahville, Jonesville, LEHI — 3 m. ne. of Mesa 
FRANKLIN— near N. M. line 50 m. e. of Thatcher 
FREDONIA, Hardscrabble — 3 m. s. of Utah line, 8 m. s. of Kanab 
Frisco, ALPINE, Bush Valley— near N. M. line 60 m. se. of St. Johns 

Gila Valley — in Graham Co., in se. Arizona 

GILBERT— 6 m. se. of Mesa 

GLENBAR, Fairview, Matthews— 10 m. w. of Thatcher in Gila Valley 

GLOBE— 80 m. nw. of Thatcher 

GRAHAM — across the Gila river n. of Thatcher 

Grand Falls — on Little Colorado, 5 m. below ford and 47 m. below 

Winslow 
Grand Wash — leads s. of St. George into Colorado r. 
Grant, Heber, LUNA — across N. M. line, 40 m. se. of Springerville 
GREER— 15 m. sw. of Eagar 

282 



HARDYVILLE— landing on Colorado, about 90 m. s. of Callville 
Hayden, Zenos, Mesaville, MESA — Headquarters of Maricopa Stake, 

16 m. e. of Phoenix 
HAYDEN— 35 m. s. of Globe 

Hayden's Ferry, San Pablo, TEMPE— 9 m. e. of Phoenix 
Heber, Grant, LUNA — across N. M. line, 40 m. se. of Springerville 
HEBER— near Wilford, 50 m. sw. of Holbrook 
HEREFORD— on San Pedro, 33 m. s. of St. David 
HOLBROOK, Horsehead Crossing, Berardo — on Little Colorado 
Horsehead Crossing, Berardo, HOLBROOK — on Little Colorado 
House Rock Springs — on Mormon road, 38 m. sw. of Lee's Ferry 
HUBBARD— 6 m. nw. of Thatcher 
HUNT— on Little Colorado, 17 m. nw. of St. Johns 

Jacob's Pools — on Mormon road, 27 m. sw. of Lee's Ferry 

JOHNSON'S — on Mormon road, 14 m. ne. of Kanab, n. of Utah line 

Johnsonville, Nephi — was successor of Tempe ward, 3 m. w. of Mesa 

Jonesville, Utahville, Ft. Utah, LEHI — 3 m. ne. of Mesa 

Joppa — in Snowflake Stake 

Junction (City), RIOVILLE — at junction of Muddy r. with Virgin r. 

Juniper, LINDEN — 8 m. w. of Showlow 

KANAB — just n. of Utah line, about 65 m. e. of St. George 

LAKESIDE, Fairview, Woodland— ward 30 m. s. of Snowflake 

LA VEEN— on Salt River, 12 m. sw. of Phoenix 

LAYTON— 3 m. e. of Thatcher 

Lebanon, ALGODON — in cotton district, 7 m. se. of Thatcher 

Lee Valley — 15 m. sw. of Eagar 

LEE'S FERRY, Lonely Dell— on Colorado r., 18 m. s. of Utah line 

LEHI, Jonesville, Utahville, Ft. Utah — ward 3 m. ne. of Mesa 

LeRoux Springs and Flat — about 7 m. nw. of Flagstaff, location of 
Ft. Moroni 

Limestone Tanks — on Mormon road, 27 m. s. of Lee's Ferry 

LINDEN, Juniper — 8 m. w. of Showlow 

Little Colorado Stake — first Arizona Stake, embraced Little Colorado 
settlements 

LITTLEFIELD, Beaver Dams, Millersburg — on Virgin r., 3 m. e. 
of Nevada line 

LOGAN, West Point — s. of Muddy r., 15 m. w. of St. Joseph 

Lonely Dell, LEE'S FERRY— crossing on Colorado r., 18 m. s. of 
Utah line 

Lone Pine, Beaver ranch, Woolf ranch, Reidhead — 12 m. s. of Snow- 
flake 

LUNA (Valley), Grant, Heber — across N. M. line, 40 m. se. of Springer- 
ville 

Macdonald — on San Pedro, 5 m. s. of St. David 

MARICOPA STAKE— Headquarters at Mesa 

Matthews, Fairview, GLENBAR — 10 m. nw. of Thatcher in Gila 

Valley 
Mazatzal City — in Tonto Basin, on East Verde r. 
McClellan Tanks — on Mormon road, about 35 m. s. of Lee's Ferry 
Meadows — on Little Colorado r., 8 m. nw. of St. Johns 
MESA, Hayden, Zenos, Mesaville — Maricopa Stake Headquarters, 

16 m. e. of Phoenix 



283 



MESQUITE — on n. side of Virgin r., 1 m. w. of Nevada line 

MIAMI— 6 m. w. of Globe, 86 m. nw. of Thatcher 

Milligan Fort — was 1 m. w. of present Eagar 

Millersburg, Beaver Dams, LITTLEFIELD — on Virgin r., nw. corner 

of Arizona 
Millville — was on Mogollon plateau, 35 m. s. of Flagstaff 
Mill Point — 6 m. nw. of St. Thomas on Muddy r. 
Miramonte — 9 m. w. of Benson 
Moaby, Moa Ave, Moen Abi, Moanabby — 7 m. sw. of Tuba, 60 m. 

s. of Lee's Ferry 
MOCCASIN SPRINGS— 3 m. n. of Pipe Springs 
MOEN COPIE — was mission headquarters, 2 m. s. of Tuba 
Mohave Spring — in Moen Copie wash, s. of Tuba 
Mormon Dairy — near Mormon Lake, belonged to Sunset and Brigham 

City 
Mormon Lake — about 28 m. se. of Flagstaff, 50 m. w. of Sunset 
Mormon Road — west extension of Spanish Trail, St. George to Los 

Angeles 
Mormon Road — wagon road from Lee's Ferry to Little Colorado r. 
Mormon Range — at head of Muddy Valley, now se. Nevada 
Mormon Flat — on Apache Trail, Phoenix to Globe, 20 m. ne. of Mesa 
Mormon Fort — n. of Las Vegas, in Nevada 

Mortensen, Percheron, East Pinedale — Just e. of Pinedale settlement 
Mt. Carmel, Winsor — United Order ward in Long Valley n. of Kanab, 

Utah 
Mt. Trumbull — in Uinkarat Mnts., 30 m. w. of mouth of Kanab Wash 
Mt. Turnbull — 37 m. nw. of Thatcher 

Muddy, river and valley, in present Nevada, near nw. corner of Arizona 
Musha Springs — just s. of Tuba, townsite of Tuba City, n. of Moen 

Copie 

Navajo, Savoia, RAMAH — in N. M., 22 m. n. of Zuni, 80 m. ne. of 

St. Johns 
Navajo, Spring — on Mormon road, 8 m. s. of Lee's Ferry 
Navajo Wells — 16 m. e. of Kanab, in Utah, foot of Buckskin mts. 
Nephi, Johnsonville — was successor of Tempe ward, 3 m. w. of Mesa 
NUTRIOSO— 17 m. se. of Springerville 

Obed — was on Little Colorado r., 3 m. sw., across river, from St. Joseph 
Omer and Amitv, Union, EAGAR— in lower Round Valley, Apache Co. 
OVERTON, Patterson's Ranch— 8 m. nw. of St. Thomas, Nevada 
ORAIBI — Indian village, about 40 m. se. of Moen Copie 
Orderville — was United Order ward in Long Valley, n. of Kanab, in 
Utah 

PAP AGO — Indian ward on both sides of Salt r., just nw. of Mesa. 
Paria River — enters Colorado r. from n., just above Lee's Ferry 
Patterson's Ranch, OVERTON— 8 m. nw. of St. Thomas, Nevada 
PAYSON — in upper Tonto Basin, 75 m. w. of Showlow 
Peach Springs — 10 m. ne. of station of same name on Santa Fe, 58 

m. w. of Ash Fork 
Pearce's Ferry — Colorado r. crossing at mouth of Grand Wash 
Penrod, PINETOP— 12 m. se. of Showlow 
Percheron, Mortensen, PINEDALE — 15^m. w. of Showlow 
PHOENIX — Capital of Arizona, in Salt River Valley 

284 



PIMA, Smithville— in Gila Valley, 6 m. nw. of Thatcher 

PINE — on Pine Creek, Tonto Basin, 70 m. w. of n. of Roosevelt dam 

PINED ALE, Percheron, Mortensen — 15 J4 m. w. of Showlow 

Pine Springs — near Pine Creek in Tonto Basin 

PINETOP, Penrod— 12 m. se. of Showlow 

PIPE SPRINGS, Winsor Castle— on Mormon road, 20 m. sw. of 

Kanab 
PLEASANTON— in Williams Valley, N. M., 36 m. s. of Luna Valley 
PLEASANT VALLEY— location of sawmill and dairy, 25 m. se. of 

Flagstaff 
POMERENE— 4 m. n. and e. of Benson 

RAMAH, Navajo, Savoia — in N. M., 80 m. ne. of St. Johns 
RAY— 25 m. sw. of Globe 

Redlands, ASHURST, Cork— about 15 m. nw. of Thatcher 
REIDHEAD, Beaver Ranch, Woolf Crossing, Lone Pine Crossing — 

10 m. s. of Taylor 
RICHVILLE, Walnut Grove, 18 m. s. of St. Johns 
RIOVILLE, Junction (City) — junction of Muddy r. with Virgin r. 
Round Valley, EAGAR— 35 m. s. of St. Johns 

ST. JOHNS, Salem— St. Johns Stake hdqrs., 60 m. se. of Holbrook 
ST. JOHNS STAKE — Embraces eastern Arizona, n. of Graham Co. 
ST. DAVID — on San Pedro r., 7 m. se. of Benson in se. Arizona 
ST. JOSEPH — 5 m. n. of Overton, n. side of Muddy r., now in Nevada 
ST. JOSEPH, Allen Camp, Cumorah— on Little Colorado r., 10 m. 

w. of Holbrook 
ST. JOSEPH STAKE— embraces se. Arizona, hdqrs. at Thatcher 
ST. THOMAS— w. side of Muddy, l^m. above junction with Virginr. 
SAFFORD— 3 m. e. of Thatcher 

Salem, ST. JOHNS— St. Johns Stake hdqrs., 60 m. se. of Holbrook 
Salt Lake — 33 m. e. of St. Johns; is in New Mexico 
Salt Mountains — Salt deposits on Virgin r., below St. Thomas 
San Francisco Mountains — n. of Flagstaff 
SAN BERNARDINO, Cal— about 50 m. e. of Los Angeles 
San Bernardino Ranch — in extreme se. corner of Arizona 
San Pablo, Hayden's Ferry, TEMPE— 9 m. e. of Phoenix 
San Pedro — river and valley in se. Arizona 

Savoia. Navajo, RAMAH — Savoia was 6 m. e. of present Ramah 
SHOWLOW— 22 m. s. of Snowflake 
SHUMWAY — ward on Silver creek, 7 m. s. of Snowflake 
Simonsville — was mill location, 6 m. nw. of St. Thomas 
Smithville, PIMA— 6 m. nw. of Thatcher, once St. Joseph Stake hdqrs. 
SNOWFLAKE— Snowflake Stake hdqrs., 30 m. s. of Holbrook 
SNOWFLAKE STAKE— embraces practically Navajo County 
Soap Creek (Springs) — on Mormon road, 16 m. sw. of Lee's Ferry 
SOLOMONVILLE— e. end of Gila Valley 
SPRINGER VILLE— 35 m. se. of St. Johns 

Stinson Valley — former name of valley in which Snowflake is located 
STONE'S FERRY, Bonelli's— Colorado r. crossing, w. of mouth of 

Virgin r. 
Strawberry Valley — in n. Tonto Basin 
Sulphur Springs Valley — in se. Arizona 
Sunset, Sunset Crossing — Little Colorado r. settlement, 25 m. w. of 

St. Joseph 

285 



Sunset Sawmill — was 7 m. s. of Mormon Dairy 

Surprise Valley — 10 m. nw. of Hunt, along Surprise Creek, 27 m. nw. 

of St. Johns 
Surprise Valley — near mouth of Kanab Canyon 

Taylor — was settlement across Colorado r., 3 m. w. of St. Joseph 
TAYLOR, Bagley, Walker— on Silver Creek, 3 m. s. of Snowflake 
TEMPE, San Pablo, Hayden's Ferry— 9 m. e. of Phoenix 
Tenney's Camp, WOODRUFF— on Little Colorado r., 12 m. ne. of 

Holbrook 
THATCHER— St. Joseph Stake hdqrs., in Gila Valley 
Tonto Basin — in central Arizona 

TUBA (CITY)— on Mormon road, 60 m. se. of Lee's Ferry 
TUBAC— on Santa Cruz r., 42 m. s. of Tucson 
Turkey Tanks— about 10 m. ne. of Flagstaff 

Union, Omer, Amity, EAGAR — ward embraced Round Valley settle- 
ments 
Utahville, Fort Utah, LEHI, Jonesville — 3 m. ne. of Mesa 
Ute Ford, Vado de los Padres, CROSSING OF THE FATHERS— 
on Colorado r., just n. of Arizona line 

Vermilion Cliffs — w. of Colorado r., extending into both Arizona and 

Utah 
VERNON — ward includes Concho and Hunt branches 
VIRDEN — just over New Mexico line on Gila r., 8 m. ne. of Franklin 

Walker, Bagley, TAYLOR— on Silver Creek, 3 m. s. of Snowflake 
Walnut Grove, RICHVILLE— 18 m. s. of St. Johns on Little Col- 
orado r. 
West Point, LOGAN — s. of Muddy r., 15 m. w. of St. Joseph, Nevada 
Whitewater — 22 m. e. of Tombstone. 
Wilford — 6 m. sw. of Heber, 56 m. sw. of Holbrook 
Williams Valley — in New Mexico, 36 m. s. of Luna Valley 
Willow Springs — on Mormon road, 7 m. nw. of Tuba 
Winsor, Mt. Carmel — was United Order ward in Long Valley n. of 

Kanab 
Winsor Castle, PIPE SPRINGS— on Mormon road, 20 m. sw. of 

Kanab 
WOODRUFF, Tenney's Camp— ward on Little Colorado r., 12 m. 

se. of Holbrook 
Woolf Crossing, ranch, Beaver ranch, Lone Pine, Reidhead — 10 m. 

s. of Taylor 
Woodland, Fairview, LAKESIDE — 3 m. nw. of Pinetop 

Zenos, Hayden, Mesaville, MESA — 16 m. e. of Phoenix 



286 



CHRONOLOGY OF LEADING 
EVENTS 



1846 — Feb. 4, Chas. Shumway first to cross Mississippi in exodus 
from Nauvoo; Feb. 4, "Brooklyn" sailed from New York, with 
235 L. D. S.; July 29, arr. San Francisco; July 20, Mormon 
Battalion left Council Bluffs; Aug. 1, arr. Ft. Leavenworth; 
12, left Leavenworth; 23, Col. Allen died; Oct. 9, 1st detach- 
ment at Santa Fe; 13, Cooke in command; Sept. 16, families 
sent to Pueblo; Oct. 19, left Sant Fe; Nov. 21, turned to west; 

28, at summit Rockies; Dec. 18, at Tucson; 22, arr. Pima 
villages. 

1847 — Jan. 8, Battalion at mouth of Gila; 10, crossed Colorado r.; 

29, arr. near San Diego; July 16, discharged; 24, Pres. Young 
and Utah pioneers reached Salt Lake Valley. 

1848 — Jan. 24, gold discovered at Sutter's Fort, Cal. 

1851 — June, Lyman and Rich and about 500 from Utah located San 
Bernardino, Cal.; fall, Mormons located at Tubac. 

1853 — First missionaries in Las Vegas district. 

1855 — May 10, 30 missionaries left Salt Lake for Las Vegas. 

1857 — Ira Hatch and Dudley Leavitt among Paiutes; Hamblin sees 
Ives steamer "Explorer;" Sept. 11, Mountain Meadows mas- 
sacre. 

1858 — Jan., Ira Hatch sent to Muddy; Feb., Col. Kane treaty with 
Paiutes; San Bernardino vacated; spring, Hamblin to Colorado 
r.; first trip across Colorado r. 

1859— Oct., Hamblin to Hopi. 

1860— Oct., Hamblin to Hopi; Nov. 2, Geo. A. Smith, Jr., killed by 
Indians near Tuba. 

1862— Nov., Hamblin to Hopi. 

1863 — Feb. 24, Arizona Territory organized from New Mexico; Mar. 
18, Hamblin to Hopi; Pipe Springs located by Dr. J. M. 
Whitmore. 

1864 — Mar., Hamblin party parleys with Navajos; Moccasin Springs 
settled; United Order established in Brigham City, Utah, by 
Lorenzo Snow; Oct., Anson Call directed to establish Colo- 
rado r. port, Beaver Dams settled by Henry W. Miller; Dec. 
2, Call party at site of Call's landing; 18, work begun at 
Call's Landing. 

1865 — Jan. 8, first settlers at St. Thomas on Muddy r., settlement 
of St. Joseph on Muddy r.; settlement on Paria Creek; Dec, 
Muddy section organized as Pah-ute County, Arizona. 

287 



1866 — Jan. 8, Whitmore and Mclntire killed by Indians near Pipe 
Springs; June 4, conference with Indians on Muddy r.; 
Moccasin vacated through Indian troubles; Nov., steamer 
"Esmeralda" on upper Colorado r. 

1867 — Jan. 18, Pah-ute county claimed by Nevada; spring, floods 
caused abandonment of Beaver Dams; Oct. 1, county seat of 
Pah-ute moved from Callville to St. Thomas. 

1868 — Feb. 10, trouble with Paiutes on Muddy r. ; August 18, destruc- 
tive fire at St. Joseph; Nov. 1, Andrew S. Gibbons and O. D. 
Gass started from Callville to Ft. Yuma by boat. 

1869— Feb. 8, Junction City (Rioville) established; Feb. 15, Utah 
organized Rio Virgen County, including Muddy settlements; 
May 29, Powell started first trip down Canyon; June 12, David- 
son family died of thirst on desert near Muddy r.; June 16, 
Callville abandoned; August, 3 of Powell's men killed by 
Indians; 29, Powell ended trip below Canyon; Oct., Hamblin 
at Hopi. 

1870 — Mar., Brigham Young party visited Muddy settlements; June 
14, settlement on Kanab Creek; Sept., Hamblin to Mt. Trum- 
bull with J. W. Powell; Nov. 5, Hamblin peace talk with 
Navajos at Ft. Defiance; took Chief Tuba to Utah; Dec, de- 
termination to abandon Muddy settlements 

1871 — Spring, abandonment Muddy district; Pah-ute County abol- 
ished by Arizona Territory; Aug., Hamblin, with Powell, on 
second Colorado r. trip; Moccasin Springs re-settled; Moen 
Copie made mission post; 

1872 — John D.Lee located at mouth of Paria; June 28, J. H. Beadle 
at Lee's Ferry. 

1873 — Mar. 8, Brigham Young instructed Arizona colonists in Salt 
Lake; spring, L. W. Roundy and Hamblin at Moen Copie; 
May 1, H. D. Haight party left Utah for Little Colorado 
"Valley; May 22, Haight party on Little Colorado r.; June 30, 
Haight party turned back. 

1874 — Jan., Hamblin to Hopi to prevent war; Aug., Hamblin to Ft. 
Defiance on peace mission. 

1875— Feb. 20, Orderville established; Sept. 16, D. W. Jones explora- 
tion party left Salt Lake; Oct. 27, Jones party crossed Colo- 
rado r.; 30, Jas. S. Brown exploring party left Salt Lake; Dec. 
4, Brown party at Moen Copie; 14, Jones party at Tucson. 

1876 — Jan., Jones party in Mexico; Feb. 3, Little Colorado settlers 
left Salt Lake; Mar. 23, advance company at Sunset; 24-31, 
locations of Allen City, Obed, Sunset, Ballenger ; 28, work 
commenced on St. Joseph dam; Apr., location of Tenney's 
(Woodruff) Camp, on Little Colorado r.; 17, United Order 
established on Little Colorado r.; Daniel H. Wells and party 
on Little Colorado r.; May, Boston party passed Little Colo- 
rado settlements; June 24, L. W. Roundy drowned in Colo- 
rado r.; 27, Obed moved to new location; June, D. W. Jones 
party returns to Utah; first L. D. S. settlers on Showlow Creek; 
July 17, exploration of Tonto Basin; 17, first child born in Allen 
City; 19, Allen City dam washed away; Aug., Lorenzo H. Hatch 

288 



located at Savoia; Oct. 18, Pratt-Stewart party left Utah for 
Arizona; Nov. 7, Mt. Trumbull sawmill re-established near 
Mormon Lake; Dec. 23, Pratt party reached Phoenix; Dec, 
Harrison Pearce established ferry at mouth of Grand Wash; 
Hamblin located new route to Sunset, via Grand Wash. 

1877 — Jan. 6, Jones settlement party organized at St. George by 
Brigham Young, Bunkerville located, first L. D. S. school 
in Arizona, at Obed; 17, Jones party left St. George; Mar. 6, 
arr. Salt River, founded Lehi; Mar. 23, J. D. Lee executed; 
May 20, first Indian baptism on Salt r.; Aug., Merrill com- 
pany left Lehi; 29, death of Brigham Young,| Hamblin at 
Hopi; Sept. 14, start of Idaho-Salt Lake party that founded 
Mesa; 14, Merrill company on San Pedro r.; Nov. 12, Arkansas 
L. D. S. arr. on Little Colorado r. ; 29, Merrill party location 
on San Pedro r. 

1878 — Jan., C. I. Robson and others selected Mesa location; 20, Colo- 
rado r. frozen over at Lee's Ferry; 22, location of Taylor on 
Little Colorado r. ; 23, James Pearce first L. D. S. settler on 
Silver Creek; 27, Little Colorado Stake organized, name of 
Ballenger changed to Brigham City, name of Allen changed to 
St. Joseph; Feb. 5, Robson party at Fort Utah; 9, naming of 
Woodruff; 18, settlers at Forest Dale; May 15, first L. D. S. 
locations in Tonto Basin; July 21, Flake and Kartchner moved 
the site of Snowflake; Sept.-Dec, Erastus Snow and party 
travel in Arizona; Sept. 27, Erastus Snow party located and 
named Snowflake, selected Jesse N. Smith as President Eastern 
Arizona Stake; Oct. 26, first settlers on Mesa townsite; Dec, 
re-settlement of Beaver Dams. 

1879— Jan. 16, arr. at Snowflake of Jesse N. Smith; Feb., L. D. S. 
explorers at Smithville on Gila r.; Mar., L. D. S. settlement in 
Concho; Apr. 8, Showlow company located at Smithville; 
Completion of J. W. Young woolen factory at Moen Copie; 
settlement at Shumway ; first session of court in Apache County; 
Nov. 16, purchase of Barth claims at St. Johns. 

1880— Mar. 29, St. Johns townsite selected by Wilford Woodruff; 
Sept. 19, re-location of St. Johns townsite; Sept. 26, naming 
of Alpine; fall, re-settlement of Overton; Oct. 6, arr. at St. 
Johns of D. K. Udall; Nov., land at Graham on Gila r. bought 
by Brigham City settlers; Dec, settlement of Matthews on 
Gila r. 

1881 — Jan., location at Graham; Mar., settlement at Curtis (Eden), 
trouble with Indians; location of Holbrook; name of Smith- 
ville changed to Pima. 

1882 — Jan. 28, re-location of Holbrook townsite; June 1, N. B. Robin- 
son killed by Indians, Indian troubles in mountain settle- 
ments; June 24, N. C. Tenney killed at St. Johns; July, estab- 
lishment of first paper in Apache County; July 19, L. D. S. 
settlement at Tempe; Dec. 10, Maricopa Stake organized; 
Dec. 25, naming of Thatcher. 

1883 — Jan. 4, location party in Mexico from St. David; 13, settlement 
of Layton; Feb. 25, establishment of St. Joseph Stake at St. 



289 



David; spring, Forest Dale abandoned; Aug. 25, Wilford and 

Heber organized; Nov., naming of Lehi. 
1884 — Mar., land jumping in St. Johns; Nov., Young and Grant party 

visit Yaqui Indian country. 
1885 — Feb. 9, departure of first L. D. S. Mexican colony; Nov.-Dec, 

Indian depredations in Gila Valley; Dec. 1, killing of Lorenzo 

and Seth Wright on Gila r.; Wilford abandoned. 
1886 — Feb. 9, Andrew S. Gibbons died at St. Johns; Aug. 31, death 

of Jacob Hamblin at Pleasanton; Sept. 8, Isaac C. Haight 

died at Thatcher. 
1887 — Jan. 24, first donation to Arizona temple; May 3, earthquake 

at St. David; Fredonia settled; July 24, St. Johns Stake organ- 
ized; Dec. 4, C. I. Robson president of Maricopa Stake; Dec. 

18, Snowflake Stake organized. 
1889 — Jan. 14, St. Johns Stake Academy established; 21, Snowflake 

Academy established; Apr. 2, Brigham Young Jr., and Jesse 

N. Smith purchased Little Colorado Valley lands in New York; 

May 11, Wham robbery, near Ft. Grant. 
1890 — Feb., Great floods on Little Colorado r. and Silver Creek. 
1891 — Feb., large damage done by Salt r. floods. 
1892 — June 20, Lot Smith killed by Indians near Tuba City; July 

3-4, general conference of Arizona Stakes at Pinetop; Dec. 8, 

Chas. L. Flake killed at Snowflake. 
1893 — Feb. 19, artesian flow struck at St. David. 
1894— Feb. 24, C. I. Robson died at Mesa; May 10, C. R. Hakes 

president of Maricopa Stake. 
1898 — Jan. 29, St. Joseph Stake reorganized under Andrew Kimball; 

May 21, death of Chas. Shumway; Sept. 1, St. Joseph Stake 

Academy opened at Thatcher. 
1903 — Feb., Tuba settlers sell to Indian Bureau. 
1904— Sept. 15, death of P. C. Merrill. 
1905 — May 1, breaking of St. Johns reservoir. 
1906 — June 5, death of Jesse N. Smith. 



290 



TRAGEDIES OF THE FRONTIER 



It is notable that few were the Mormons who have met 
untimely death by violence in the Southwest. It is believed 
that the following brief record is, very nearly, complete : 

George A. Smith, Jr. — Nov. 2, 1860. Killed by Navajos near 
Tuba City. See p. 66. 

Dr. J. M. Whitmore and Robert Mclntire — Jan. 8, 1866. Killed 
by Navajos near Pipe Springs. See p. 72. 

Elijah Averett — Jan. 1866. Killed by Navajos near Paria Creek. 
Averett had been with the Capt. James Andrus expedition (see p. 72) 
after the Whitmore-Mclntire murderers and had been sent back, with 
a companion, with dispatches from about the Crossing of the Fathers. 
He was killed on this return journey and his companion wounded. 

Joseph Berry, Robert Berry and the latter's wife, Isabella — April 
2, 1866. Killed by Paiutes at Cedar Knoll near Short Creek, west of 
Pipe Springs. The three were in a wagon and had attempted to escape 
by running their horses across country, but the Indians cut them off. 
They fought for their lives and one dead Indian was found near their 
bodies. In the woman's body was a circle of arrows. 

Joseph Davidson, wife and son — June 12, 1869. Perished of thirst 
on Southern Nevada desert, in Muddy Valley section. See p. 119-20. 

Lorenzo W. Roundy — May 24, 1876. Drowned in Colorado 
River. See p. 87. 

Nathan B. Robinson — June 1, 1882. Killed by Apaches near 
Reidhead. See p. 172. Photo., p. 229. 

Nathan C. Tenney — June 24, 1882. Unintentionally shot by 
Mexicans in course of riot at St. Johns. See p. 181. 

Jacob S. Ferrin — July 19, 1882. Killed by Apaches 12 miles east 
of San Carlos. See p. 253. 

Mrs. W. N. Fife— Sept. 11, 1884. Murdered at her home in the 
Sulphur Springs Valley. She had given a Mexican dinner and was 
rewarded by a shot in the back. A 13-year-old daughter was saved 
by the timely arrival of a Mexican employe. The murderer, only 
known as Jesus, was captured the following day by a posse of settlers 
and, after full determination of guilt, was hanged to a tree. The 
murderer's skull now is in possession of Dr. Ezra Rich of Ogden, Utah. 

Lorenzo and Seth Wright — Dec. 1, 1885. Ambushed by Apaches 
in Gila Valley. See p. 254. 

Frank Thurston — May 23, 1886. Killed by Apaches six miles 
west of Pima. See p. 254. 

291 



Lot Smith— JunepO, 1892. Killed by Navajos near Tuba. See 
p. 159-60. 

Chas. L. Flake — Dec. 8, 1892. Killed by fugitive criminal at 
Snowflake. See p. 165. 

Horatio Merrill and 14-year-old daughter, Eliza — Dec. 3, 1895. 
Killed by Apaches at Ash Springs, 30 miles east of Pima. This crime 
has been charged to the infamous Apache Kid. 

Isaac Benj. Jones — May 12, 1897. Killed at El Dorado Canyon, 
near the Colorado River. While freighting ore to a mill, he was 
ambushed and shot from his wagon by a Paiute, Avote, who murdered 
several other whites before being run down and killed by Indians on 
Cottonwood Island, where he had taken refuge. 

John Bleak — Jan. 26, 1899. Killed by Mexicans, near Hackberry, 
Mohave County. The body was found with many knife thrusts/^with 
indications of a desperate resistance of two assailants. 

Frank Lesueur and Augustus Andrew Gibbons — Mar. 27, 1900. 
Killed by outlaws near Navajo, eastern Apache County. They had 
been deserted by six Mexican members of a posse trailing American 
cattle thieves, who were fleeing northward from near St. Johns, and 
were ambushed in a mountain canyon. Lesueur was killed instantly 
by a shot in the forehead and Gibbons, already shot through the body, 
was killed by a shot in the head at very short range. The murderers 
were not apprehended. 

Wm. T. Maxwell — 1901. Killed by outlaws near Nutrioso. He 
was the son of a Mormon Battalion member. 

Wm. W. Berry— Dec. 22, 1903. Murdered in Tonto Basin. John 
and Zach Booth, goat owners, were arrested for the crime. The latter 
was hanged and the former released after disagreement of the jury. 
The crime also embraced the murder of a 16-year-old boy, Juan Vigil, 
son of a herder. Berry at the time was in charge of a band of sheep. 

Hyrum Smith Peterson — Nov. 12, 1913. Killed near Mesa. 
Peterson, city marshal, was shot down by thieves whom he was trying 
to arrest. 

Frank McBride and Martin Kempton— Feb. 10, 1918. Killed 
60 miles west of Pima. McBride was sheriff of Graham County and 
Kempton was deputy. The two sought arrest of the Powers brothers 
and Sisson, draft evaders, who were ia a cabin in the Galiuro Moun- 
tains. With them was killed another deputy, Kane Wootan. In a 
following special session of the Legislature, the families of the three 
were given $17,500, to be invested for their benefit. 



292 




KILLED BY INDIANS 

1— Geo. A. Smith, Jr. 2— Dr. Jas. M. Whitmore 

3— Seth Wright 4— Jacob Ferrin 5— Eliza Mer;iU 

6 — Diana Davis Fife 7 — Lorenzo Wright 




KILLED BY OUTLAWS 

I— Nathan C. Tenney 2— Chas. L. Flake 3— Frank Lesueur 

4— Augustus Andrew Gibbons 5— Wm. Wiley Berry 

6— Hyrum S. Peterson 7— R. Franklin McBride 8— Martin Ivempton 



INDEX 

See Chronology 287-90, Mormon Settlement Place Names 281-86 



Adair — Named for early resident 36 

Adair, Samuel N. — Photo. 84 

Adair, Wesley — Battalion member 36, photo. 21 

Agriculture — Mormon pioneers in 2, first in N. Ariz. 117 

Allen, Lt.-Col. Jas.— Commander Battalion 10, died 11 

Allen, Rufus C— Battalion member 36, to S. America 55, in Las Vegas 

section 106 
Allen, W. C— Heads L. Colorado party 138, photo. 188 
Alma— Est. 218 ,. , no . j on 

Allred, Mrs. R. W. — With husband on Battalion march 36, photo. At 
Allredj Reuben W .— Battalion member 36, photo. 29 
Alpine — Burial place of Jacob Hamblin 88, 187, est. 186 
Ancient Races— Canal at Mesa 213-14, in Arizona 224-28, canals of, 

213-14, 225-28, in Gila Valley 241 
Andrus, Capt. Jas.— Led party against Indians 72 
Apaches— Encroachments on Forest Dale 170-171, attack on Col. Carr s 

command 172, attack on Camp Apache 194-95, experiences with in 

Gila Valley 250-56, Chiricahua outbreaks 250-53, murders m Gila 

Valley 252-53 
Arkansas Immigrants— At Taylor 148, on L. Colorado 151-52 
Artesian Water— At St. David 238, wells in Gila Valley 259 
Asay, Joseph— Aids Powell exp. 128-29 
Atlantic & Pacific R. R.— Land grant 193-94 

B 

Ballenger, Jesse O. — Heads L. Colorado settlement 138 
Ballenger's Camp (Brigham City)— Est. 140 
Banta, A. F — Arizona pioneer 178, 180, 184-85 
Barbenceta — Navajo Chief 77-79 

Barrus, Lt. Ruel — Battalion officer at San Luis Rey 28 
Barth, Sol— On L. Colorado 177-79 
Bartlett, John R— At Tubac 56-57, in Texas 57-58 
Bass, Willis W— Grand Canyon guide 75 
Beadle, J. H— Visit to Lonely Dell and J. D. Lee 91-2 
Beale, E. F— At San Pascual 26, camel survey, carried dispatches east, 
advised Washington of discovery of gold 33 

293 



Beaver Dams — Early occupation 6, 101, settlement 117-18 

Beebe, Nelson P. — Leader of Arkansas party 151 

Bees — First in Utah 47 

Bellamy, Edward — Study of United Order 131 

Bennett, Capt. Frank F. — In great Navajo council 76-78 

Berardo — At Horsehead Crossing 163 

Berry, Mrs. Rachael — State legislator 106 

Berry, Wm. Wiley — Killed by outlaws, photo. 291 

Bibliography 279-80 

Biggs, Thos — Lehi settler 203, photo. 212 

Bigler, Henry W. — At gold discovery 43-44, photo. 20 

Bluewater, N. M.— Settlement 189 

Blythe, John L. — Launched boat at Lee's Ferry 92, 94, at Moen Copie 
137, at Le Roux Spring 152, photo. 132 

Bonelli, Daniel — Early ferryman 97-121, photo. 132 

Boston Party — In L. Colorado Valley 149-51 

Boyle, Henry G. — Battalion member 27, 36, outlined Mormon road 29, 
first president S. States Mission 36, photo. 29 

Brannan, Samuel — Head of "Brooklyn" exp. 38-42, Wyoming confer- 
ence with Brigham Young, died in Mexico 42 

Brigham City, Ariz. — Est. 140, naming 145, abandonment 147, photo, 
of old fort 140 

Brigham City, Utah — Experiences in United Order 130 

Brinkerhoff, Hyrum — Muddy r. and Gila v. pioneer 249, photo. 260 

Brinkerhoff, Margaret — Muddy r. and Gila v. pioneer 249, photo. 261 

Brizzee, H. W. — Battalion member 27, in Arizona 36, photo. 28 

"Brooklyn" — Mormon immigrant ship 4, 38 

Brown, Capt. Jas. — Led at Pueblo, Colo. 5, battalion officer 11-12, 
arr. Salt Lake, to Cal. for pay 29-30 

Brown, Jas. S. — On Muddy r. 36, at Cal. gold discovery 44, head of 
1875 scouting party 137, battalion member 138, photo. 20 

Bryce— Est. 249 

Bryce, Ebenezer — Early Gila settler 249, photo. 260 

Bushman, John V.— N. E. Ariz, settler 140, 144-45, 155, photo. 188 



Call, Anson— Founded CallviUe 2, 113, photo. 132 

CallviUe — Port on Colorado r. 44, est. 113-114, abandonment 116, 

county seat of Pah-ute Co. 123 
Camels — Brought by Beale survey 33 
Campbell, Gov. T. E. — Assistance in work iii, circumtoured Grand 

Canyon 69, Prest. League of the Southwest 110 
Cannon, Angus M. — At CallviUe 72, on Colorado r. 114 
Cannon, David H. — Baptism of Shivwits at St. George 67, photo. 117 
Carson, Kit — Guide of Kearny exp. 25-26, carried dispatches east 33, 

campaign against Navajo 76 
Carson Valley, Nev. — Settled by Mormons 5 
Casa Grande — Ancient ruin 227 
Cataract Canyon — Home of Hava-supai 69, entered by Hamblin 69, 

by Garces 69, by Ives 111 
Central— Est. 249 

Chemehuevis Indians — War band in Muddy r. district 109 
Chronology 287-90 



294 



Chuichupa, Colonia — Mexican settlement 268 

Claridge, Rebecca — Photo 261 

Claridge, Samuel H. — Muddy and Gila r. pioneer 249, photo. 260 

Cluff, Benjamin — At Las Vegas 105 

Coal — Dug at San Diego by G. W. Sirrine 47 

Cocheron, Augusta Joyce — Description of Yerba Buena 39 

Cocopah Indians — Colorado r. deck hands 112 

Colorado City — Est. on site of Yuma 111 

Colorado River — Reached by Battalion 17, watershed embraced within 

State of Deseret 50, ferries of 89-97, frozen over 95, transportation 

110-116, efforts to utilize water and power, drainage area, flow, 

water storage, navigation, watershed now barred for navigation 

110-14 
Colter, J. G. H.— At Round Valley 185 
Concho — Hard living conditions 168, est. 183, naming 184 
Cooke, Lt.-Col. P. St. George — Commander Mormon Battalion 11-12, 

congratulatory order 15, story of march 18-19, left Santa Fe 25, 

crossed Colorado r. 26, led Johnston's cavalry to Utah, resignation 

32, photo. 20 
Cooley, C. E. — Won Showlow in card game, sold 168 
Cooperative Stores — Est. in many communities 133 
Co-quap — Paiute killed at St. Thomas 108 
Cotton — Raised by Maricopas 18, Pima long-staple 211 
Crismon, Chas. — At San Bernardino 46, took first bees to Utah 47, at 

founding of Mesa 212, photo. 213 
Crosby, Geo. H. Sr — Photo. 188 
Crosby, Jesse W. — In re-settlement of Muddy 127 
Crosby, Taylor— At Hopi 65 
Crossing of the Fathers — Passed by Escalante and Dominguez 59, 

Hamblin's was first crossing by white men since Spanish days 64, 

early use of 89, photo., frontispiece 
Curtis— Est. 248 

Curtis, Elizabeth Hanks — Photo. 261, in Gila Valley 253 
Curtis, Josephine — Photo. 189, in Gila Valley 
Curtis, Martha— Photo. 189, in Gila Valley 
Curtis, Moses M. — Gila Valley pioneer 247, at Eden 248 
Curtis, Virginia — Photo. 189, in Gila Valley 
Cushing, Frank H. — Southwestern ethnologist 213-14 
Cutler, R. J. — Muddy settler 119, Rep. Pah-ute Co. in Ariz. 3d and 4th 

legislatures 124, clerk Rio Virgen Co. 126 

D 

Davidson, Jas. — Death of family of thirst 119-120 

Davis, Capt. Daniel C. — Battalion officer 28 

Davis, Durias — Visit to Hopi 63 

Day, Henry — In charge at Moen Copie 136 

Defiance, Fort — Est. 5, great council with Navajo 76, settlement by 

Hamblin of Indian troubles 86 
Dellenbaugh, F. S. — Estimate of Mormon settlements 6, 128, wrote of 

Navajo council 76 
Deseret— State of, 48-52, map 51, origin of name 48, boundaries 49, 

organization, legislature 52 
Diaz, Colonia — Mexican settlement 267-68 

295 



Dixie, Utah's — Brigham Young in 81, ref. to 104 

Dobson, Thos. F. — First settler at Fredonia 99 

Dodge, Enoch — Fight with Navajos 71 

Dominguez and Escalante — On Spanish Trail 53 

Dublan, Colonia — Mexican settlement 268 

Dykes, Geo. P.— Battalion officer 11, 21, 37, photo. 20, death 33 

E 

Eagar— Est. 185 

Earthquake— At St. David 236 

Eastern Arizona Stake — Est. 195-96 

Eden— Est. 248 

Ehrenberg — Military depot 111 

El Dorado Canyon — At Cottonwood Island 114 

Ellsworth, Edmund — Salt Lake Pioneer 106 

Emory, W. H— With Kearny exp. 25-26 

Engelhardt, Father Z. — Estimate of Battalion members 31 

Escalante-Dominguez — On Spanish Trail 53-54, at Crossing'of the 

Fathers 89 
"Explorer" — Ives' steamboat on Colorado r. 62, 111, photo. 68 



Farish, Thos. E. — Former Arizona Historian iv 

Ferrin, Jacob S. — Killed by Apaches 253, photo. 292 

Fife, Diana Davis — Killed by Indians 291, photo. 292 

Fife, J. D. — Sulphur Springs Valley pioneer, photo. 189 

Fife, Wm. N. — Sulphur Springs Valley pioneer, photo. 189 

Fish, Joseph — Early historian 166, photo. 172 

Flagstaff — Naming of 151 

Flake, Chas. L— Killed by outlaw 165, photo. 293 

Flake, Wm. J. — Land purchases at Snowflake 164, at Showlow 168, 

at Concho 183, at Springerville 185, at Nutrioso 185-86, photo. 188 ' 
Follett, Wm. A. — Battalion member 37, to Arizona 106, photo.; 28 
Foote, Jos. Warren— At St. Joseph, Nevada 118 
Forest Dale — Est. 170-71, Indian encroachments, abandonment, claims 

for damages 170-73 
Foreword iii-iv 
Foutz, Joseph — Photo. 189 
Franklin— Est. 250 
Fredonia — Visited by Gov. Campbell 69, est., naming, description^ 

99-100, view 108 
Fremont, John C. — Dissension in American forces 9, arrest and trial 32, 

on Spanish Trail 54 



Garces, Father Francisco — Early Spanish priest 53, at Hopi 64 

Garcia, Colonia — Mexican settlement 268 

Gass, Octavius D. — Represented Mohave Co. in 2d legislature and 

Pah-ute Co. in 3d and 4th Legislatures 124, in 5th Legislature 125, 

floated down Colorado r. 125 

296 



Genoa — First American settlement in Nevada 5 

Gibbons, Andrew S. — Investigated Welsh legend 64, r took Hopi visitors 
home 69, shown sacred stone of Hopi 81, Salt Lake Pioneer 106, 
interpreter on Muddy 108-18, trip down Colorado r., in Ariz. Legis- 
lature from Pah-ute Co. 125, photo. 84 

Gibbons, Mrs. A. S— Photo. 189 

Gibbons, Augustus A. — Killed by Indians 292, photo. 293 

Gibbons, Richard — At Hopi village 82 

Gibbons, Wm. H— At Hopi village 82 

Gila River — Barge made by Battalion 14, route of Battalion 17, land 
erosion 258, trouble with mill tailings 259 

Gold — Battalion party present at discovery 43 

Goodwin, Camp — In Gila Valley 251, abandonment 258 

Graham— Est. 246 

Graham County — Est. 250 

Grand Canyon — Visited by Escalante-Dominguez 53-54, circumtoured 
by Hamblin 68, by Gov. Campbell 69, expl. by Powell.; 74-76, 90, 92, 
to be bridged 96 

Grand Falls — Haight party at 92, view 156 

Grand Wash — Ferry site 68, crossed by Hamblin 96 

Grant — Early name of Luna 187 

Grant Camp — Old and new, south of Gila 251 

Grant, Heber J. — Church President iii, photo. 61, visit to St.' Johns 195 
Mexican trips 237, 267 

Greeley, Lewis— With 1863 Hamblin party 69 

Greer— Est. 186 

H 

Haight, Horton D. — Crossed river at Paria 92, first attempt at Arizona 
colonization 135-136, photo. 204 

Hakes, Collins R. — At San Bernardino 45, President Maricopa Stake, 
at Bluewater, death 189, 221, photo. 220 

Hall, Miss S. M— Description of Lee's Ferry 93, of Fredonia 99, 100 

Hamblin, Frederick — At Hopi 64, at Alpine 186, fight with bear 188, 
photo. 84 

Hamblin, Jacob — Frontier guide 55, missionary to Indians, entry in 
Muddy section 59, Mountain Meadows massacre, saves wagon 
trains, photo. 60, at Las Vegas lead mines, encounter with Ives 
party 61-2, at Colorado r. 62, 114, trips to Hopi 63, 65-67, 70, 72, 
took Hopi visitors home 69, with Powell at Shivwits council 74-5, 
guide for Powell, council with Navajo 76-77, 91, error in date of 
great Navajo council 80, took provisions to second Powell exp., 
visited Fort Defiance 81, 1871-2-3 trips 82, ambassador to Navajo, 
in danger of death 83-86, located Grand Wash road, wagon route to 
Sunset, guide for D. H. Wells 1876 party, ordained Apostle to the 
Lamanites 86-87, moved to Arizona, death, monument inscription 
87-88, 185, 187, first Colorado r. crossing at Ute ford, 1858, crossed 
at Paria on raft 90, located road to San Francisco mountains 92, in 
1862 crossed river at Ute ford, in 1863 crossed at Grand Wash 96 

Hamblin, Wm. — At Hopi 64, at naming of Pipe Springs 98 

Hancock, Levi — Battalion poet 12 

Hardy's Landing— Visited by Call 97, Callville visited by Hardy 114 

Harris, Llewellyn — Welsh legend 64-65 

297 



Haskell, Thales — Investigated steamer on Colorado r. 62, at Hopi 65, 
66, 68, 69, left Hopi 70, in Muddy district 107, with Paiutes 116, 
photo. 229 

Hatch, Ira— With Paiutes 106-7, with Hopi 64, 70, at Meadows 184, 
photo. 229 

Hatch, Lorenzo — Escape from drowning 87, at Taylor 167 

Hava-supai Indians — See Cataract Canyon 

Hawkins, Wm. R. — With Powell exp. 75 

Hayden, C. T. — Visited by Jones party 198, assistance to settlers 207, 
est. Hayden's Ferry 219 

Head, W. S.— Post trader at Verde 87 

Heaton, Jonathan — Resident of Moccasin 98, photo, with sons 229 

Heber — In Mogollons 155, in New Mexico 187 

Holbrook — Naming 163 

Holmes, Henry — Description of L. Colorado valley 136 

Hopi — Visited by Father Garces 53, 64, by Escalante 54, by Jacob 
Hamblin 63-72, Welsh legend, composite language 63-64, snake dance, 
tribesmen taken to Salt Lake 68, threw Navajos from cliff 79, Tuba 
taken to Utah 80, sacred stone 81-82, southern origin 228 

Hortt, Henry J. — Fredonia settler 99 

Hubbard— Est. 249 

Hubbell, J. L. — Investigated Utah Indian troubles 84 

Hulett, Schuyler — Battalion member 37, photo. 28 

Hunt— Est. 184 

Hunt, Capt. Jefferson — Battalion officer 11, 24, 37 

Hunt, John — Battalion member 37, Mormon road mail carrier 55, at 
Snowflake 164, photo. 21 

Hunt, Marshall — Battalion member 37 

Hunter, Capt. Jesse B. — Battalion officer 11 



Idaho — Agricultural settlement 5 
Index— To book 293 
Irritaba — Mohave chief 62 
Iverson, Alma — At LeRoux Spring 152 
Ives, J. C. — Colorado r. exploration 62, 111 

Ivins, Anthony W. — Indian warfare 72, crossed Colorado r. on the 
ice 95, agent for Mexican lands 267-68, 275, photo. 165 



Jenson, Andrew — Assistant Church Historian iii, data on Callville 113, 

in Muddy Valley 127, in L. Colorado Valley 142-43, at Tuba City 

158, photo. 173 
Johnson, B. F — At Tempe 219, at Nephi, death 220, photo. 189 
Johnson, Warren M. — Escape from drowning 187, photo, of Lee's 

Ferry home 109 
Johnson, W. H. — In charge of Virgin salt mines 127 
Johnston, Capt. A. R. — Killed at San Pascual 25 
Johnston, Gen. A. S. — Exp. to Utah 32 
Johnston, Capt. Geo. A. — Ferried Beale camel exp. across river 97, 

111, 112, offered to handle Salt Lake freight 115 



298 



Johnston, W. J. — Batt. member 37, gold disc. 44, photo. 20 

Jones, D. W. — First exp. to Mexico 197-99, foundation of Lehi 201, 

203-4, death 209, photos. 205, 212 
Jones, Nathaniel V. — Battalion member 37, photo. 21 
Jonesville — See Lehi 

Jones, Wiley C. — With Jones party 197, photo. 205 
Juarez, Colonia — Mexican settlement 267-68 
Judd, Hyrum — Battalion member 37, photo. 28 
Judd, Zadok K. — Battalion member 37, photo. 29 
Junction City — On Colorado r. 118 



Kaibab Plateau — Visited by Powell 91, view 101 

Kanab — Passed in 1920 by Gov. Campbell 69, Powell exploration at 91, 

est. 97, 120 
Kane, Col. Thos. L. — Introduction to Tyler history 19-20, conference 

with Paiutes 107 
Kapurats — Paiute name for Maj. Powell 75 

Kearny, Gen. S. W. — In command California invasion 9, 10,;25, r 26 
Kempton, Martin — Killed by outlaws 292, photo. 293 
Kimball, Andrew — Prest. St. Joseph Stake 263, photo. 196 
Kimball, Heber C. — Chief Justice of Deseret 52 
Klineman, Conrad — Salt Lake Pioneer 106 



Laguna Dam — Bars Colorado navigation 112-13 

Lake, George — Leader on L. Colorado 136, 146, to Gila Valley 147, 
photo. 188 

Land Grants — Atlantic & Pacific 192, 194, Reavis fraud 228-31, Texas- 
Pacific claim 229, 231, 259 

Las Vegas, Nev. — Visited by P. P. Pratt 55, station on Mormon road 
101, detail of missionaries 105, visited by Call 114 

Las Vegas County — Creation asked 122 

"Latter-day Saints" — Designation of 1 

LaytOn— Est. 249-50 

Layton, Christ. — Battalion member 24-5, 36-7, instructions to 260, 
biography 262-63, photo. 196 

Layton, Elizabeth — Photo. 261 

Lead mines — In Nevada 104 

League of the Southwest — Water storage plans 110 

Leavitt, Dudley — Smelted lead ore in Nevada 61, at Hopi 64, at 
naming of Pipe Springs 98 

LeBaron, David T. — Tempe settler 219 

Lee, John D. — Location on Paria 91-93, messenger for Battalion 92, 
residence on Canyon 93, capture, in Utah, execution 93, experience 
of wife with Indians 94, photo, of home at Moen Avi 149 

Lee's Ferry — Visited by Gov. Campbell 69, passage of Roundy party 82, 
early crossings by Hamblin 90, Powell at 91-92, John D. Lee's resi- 
dence at 91-93, ferry bought by Church 93, description of 93-94, 
river frozen 95, Stanton exp., main route into Arizona 94 

Lehi— Map 202, est. 204-10, floods 210, arr. of Mesa party 213 

299 



Leithead, Jas. — In charge of Muddy settlements 12-21, built boat 125, 

supplied Powell exp. 129 
Lemhi, Fort — Early settlement in Idaho 5 
LeRoux, Antoine — Guide to Battalion 16, Arizona places named for 34, 

guide for Bartlett party 57 
LeRoux Springs — History 150-51 
Lesueur, Frank — Killed by outlaws 292, photo. 293 
Lesueur, Jas. W. — President Maricopa Stake 221, photo. 220 
Lesueur, John T. — President Maricopa Stake 221, photo. 220 
Lewis, Samuel — Battalion member 37, photo. 21 
List of Illustrations xi, xii 
Little Colorado River — Irrigation difficulties 141-42, floods 143, view of 

crossing 140 
Little Colorado Stake— Org. 195 

Little Colorado Valley — Haight exp. 135, settlement 138, Arizona ex- 
periences 138-63, drought 190-91 
Littlefield — Northwestern Arizona settlement 6, 101, 117-18, visited by 

Gov. Campbell 69 
Lonely Dell — Lee's name for mouth of Paria 91 
Los Angeles — Battalion experiences 22, Standage's description of, name 

23-24, muster-out of Battalion 27 
Los Muertos — Ancient city 213-214 
Luna— Est. 187 

Lund, A. H. — Church Historian iii 
Lund, A. Wm. — Church Librarian iii 
Lyman, Amasa M. — San Bernardino experiences 45, in Arizona 106, 

with Col. Kane on Muddy r. 107 
Lyman, Francis M. — Exp. near St. Johns 182, at St. David 237 

M 

Macdonald— Est. 236 

Macdonald, A. F. — Director of cattle company at Pipe Springs 98, 

President Maricopa Stake 98, 220, transfer to Mexico, death 221, 

named St. David 235, in Mexico 267, photo. 220 
Malaria— At Obed 147, on San Pedro and Gila 233-34 
Maps— State of Deseret 51, Pah-ute County 103, Northeastern Arizona 

139, Plat of Lehi 202, Prehistoric canals 226, Southeastern Arizona 

243, Arizona and Roads 309 
Maricopa Indians — 18 
Maricopa Stake— Org. 220-21 
Matthews— Est. 247 
Maxwell, Wm. B. — Battalion member 37, at Moccasin Springs 97, 

photo. 29 
Mazatzal City — Tonto Basin settlement 174 
McBride, R. Franklin— Killed by outlaws 292, photo. 293 
McClellan, Almeda— Photo. 189 

McClellan, Wm. C. — Battalion member 37, photo. 21 
Mclntire, Robert — Killed by Indians 72 
Mclntyre, Wm. — -Battalion surgeon 11 
McConnell, Jehiel— At Hopi 66, 68-70 
McMurrin, Jos. W. — At LeRoux Spring 152, photo. 165 
Meadows — Purchase 179, occupied 184 
Meeden, C. V. — Early Colorado r. pilot 112 

300 



Merrill, Eliza— Killed by Indians 292, photo. 292 

Merrill, Philemon C. — Adjutant Battalion 21, 36-7, custodian of Utah 
stone, pioneer on San Pedro 33, 36, photos. 20, 212, in Lehi party 203, 
separation from Jones 207, est. of St. David 235 

Mesa — Org. of "The Mesa Union" 133, est. 211, canal digging 213, 
building of first house 215, civic est., naming 216-17 

Mesquite— Settlement on Virgin 119, 127 

Mexico — Jones party trip 199, exploration for settlement 236, explora- 
tion 266, est. of colonies 267-270, flight from 270-274, repopulation 
275 

Mill Point— Est. on Muddy r. 118 

Miller, Henry W. — At Beaver Dams 117, photo. 188 

Miller, Jacob — Sec'y to Haight exp. 136, photo. 204 

Milligan, Fort— Est. 88 

Moabi — Near Moen Copie 137 

Moccasin Springs — Occupation of 97, view 101 

Moen Copie — Visited by Hamblin 82-3, Blythe location 137, mission 
post, Indian experiences 157, land bought by government 161, view 85 

Mohave County — Embraced Nevada point 123 

Mohave, Fort — Est. 5 

Moody, Elizabeth— Photo. 261 

Moody, John M— First settler of Thatcher 249, photo. 260 

Morelos, Colonia — Sonora settlement 268 

Mormon Battalion — Reason for formation 7-8, muster at Council Bluffs 
11, at San Bernardino ranch 13, 16, arr. Tucson 13, arr. Pima villages 
14, left San Bernardino 18, experiences 24-25, muster-out 27, gold 
discovery 43 

Mormon Battalion Monument — Arizona contributes 34-35, photo. 36 

Mormon Dairy — Est. 154 

Mormon Road — Broken by Boyle party 29, early travel 44, mail service 
55, stations on 101 

Moroni, Fort— Est. 152-53, use by John W. Young 153, named Fort 
Rickerson 154, photos. 157 

Mountain Meadows — Massacre 45, Hamblin resident in 60 

Mount Trumbull — Powell and Hamblin at Indian council 74, sawmill 
155 

Mosvrey, Harley — Last Battalion survivor 34 

Muddy Valley — Settlement 6, 117-129, population 122, Arizona Legis- 
lature protested separation 123, return of settlers 127 

Munk, Dr. J. A. — Library of Arizoniana 166 

N 

Naraguts — Paiute guide 64 

Navajo Indians— Fight near Pipe Springs 71, stole stock in Utah, 
great council with Powell and Hamblin 76, captured by Hopi, agree- 
ment to remain south of river 79, killing of three tribesmen in Utah 84 

Nephi— Est. 220 

Nevada — First American settlement by Mormons 5-6, jurisdiction over 
Muddy district 101, old mapping 102, Muddy abandoned 121-24, 
protest against separation from Arizona 123-24 

New Hope — Early California colony 41 

Northeastern Arizona — Map 139 

Nutrioso— Est. 185-86 

Nuttall, L. John — Exper. in crossing Colorado r. 87 

301 



o 

Oaxaca, Colonia — Sonora settlement 268 
Obed — Est. 140, abandonment 147 
Ogden — Site bought with Battalion pay 31 
Onate, Juan de — First New Mexican governor 53 
Orderville — United Order settlement 132 
Osborn's Cave — In Muddy section 107 
Overton— Muddy settlement 118, 127, 128 



Pace, Lt. Jas. — Photo. 21, Battalion officer 28, 37, brought wheat to 

Utah 29, at Thatcher 36 
Pace, Wilson D. — Battalion member 37, photo. 21 
Pace, W. W.— At Nutrioso 186 
Pacheco, Colonia — Mexican settlement 268 
Pah-ute — Early Arizona county 101, map 103, created by Arizona 

Legislature, boundaries, county seat 123, abandoned by Arizona 124, 

representation in Legislature 124-26 
Paiutes — Danger from 53, missionary efforts 106, threatened Muddy 

settlers 108-09 
Paria — Visited by Escalante exp. 54, settlement near mouth 90, photo. 

109, view of ranch and ferry 148 
Parke, Lt. A. J.— Survey party 32 
Patrick, H. R. — Map of ancient canals 226 
Pearce, Harrison — Photo. 132 
Pearce, James — At Hopi 66, brought Indians to be baptized 67, at 

Taylor 96, 167, photo. 84 
Pearce's Ferry — Crossed by Hamblin 69, at Grand Wash 96 
Perkins, Jesse N. — Head of Mesa colony 220 
Peterson, Hyrum S — Killed by outlaws 292, photo. 293 
Pettegrew, "Father" David — Advice to Battalion 23, 27 
Phoenix — Visited by Jones party 198, by Pratt-Trejo exp. 199, by 

Lehi settlers 203 
Pima— Est. 244 

Pima Indians — Visited by Battalion 22 
Pinedale— Est. 169 

Pinetop — Est. 170, Church conference 170, view 221 
Pipe Springs — Settlement and naming, first telegraph office in Arizona 

98-99, view 100 
Place Names of the South wesi^28 1-86 
Pleasanton, N. M. — Settlement, death of Hamblin 88, 189 
Pleasant Valley— War 175 
Polhamus, Isaac — Early Colorado r. pilot 112 
Pomeroy, Francis M. — Salt Lake Pioneer 106, at founding of Mesa 212, 

215, photo. 213 
Population — Latter-day Saints in Arizona 277 
Porter, Sanford — Battalion member 37, photo. 21 
Powell, Maj. J. W. — Visited Paiutes, met Hamblin 74, in council with 

Navajo 86, first exp. reached mouth of Paria 90, to Moqui towns, to 

Salt Lake, explorations from Paria 91, at Kanab Wash 92, Mormon 

assistance at end of first voyage 128-29 

302 



Pratt, Helaman — Capt. of Muddy militia 109, in second southern exp. 

199, photos 205 
Prescott — Founded 5 

Prows, Wm. C. — Battalion member 37, photo. 229 
Pueblo — First Anglo-Saxon settlement in Colorado 5, Company ordered 

to winter at 12, Battalion sick sent to 21, departure of detachment 

29-30 
Pulsipher, David — Battalion member 37, photo. 28 



Railroads — Construction northern Arizona 191-92, Atlantic & Pacific 

grant 193-94, construction through Gila Valley 256-57 
Ramah, N. M— Settlement 188-89 
Ramsey, Ralph — Utah artist, moved to Ariz. 166 
Reidhead— Est. 169 
Reidhead, John — Woodruff settler 162 

Richards, Joseph H. — L. Colorado settler 141, photos. 172, 173 
Richards, Mary— Photos. 173, 189 
Rioville — At mouth of Virgin 118 

Roberts, B. H. — Story of Battalion 24-25, Utah historian 34 
Robinson, Nathan B. — Killed by Apaches 172, photo. 229 
Robson, Chas. I. — At founding of Mesa 211-12, President Maricopa 

Stake 220, death 221, photo. 220 
Rogers, Henry C— In Lehi party 203, 209, Church officer 220-21, 

photo. 212 
Rogers, J. K. — Leader in Gila settlement 246, photo. 260 
Rogers, Josephine Wall — Photo. 261 
Rogers, Samuel H. — Battalion member 37, photo. 28 
Roundy, Lorenzo W. — Led party across Colorado r. 82, drowned 87, 

photo. 204 
Rusling, Gen. J. F. — Recommended use of Colorado r. as waterway 110 



Safford — Est. 242, outlawry 255-56, first school house photo. 245 

Safford, Gov. A. P. K — At Tombstone 239, on Gila 242 

Salt — From Virgin r. mines 111, description of deposit 127, Zuni salt 
lake, Hopi source of supply 156, central Arizona deposits 156-57 

Salt Lake Pioneers — Later Arizonans 106 

Salt River Valley — Visited by Jones party 198, Trejo description 200 

San Bernardino (Cal.) — Settlement 5, est. 44-5, abandonment 46, 
Bartlett account of purchase 57 

San Bernardino Ranch — Reached by Battalion 13, 16, Standage refer- 
ence 21 

San Diego — On route of Battalion, Standage reference to 22 ; arr. 
Kearny exp. 26, post of Battalion company 28, Battalion experiences 
29 

San Francisco — Arr. "Brooklyn" party 4, 38-41 

San Jose, Colonia — Sonora settlement 272 

San Pedro Valley — Battalion march 17-18, Standage description 21, 
settlement 231-35 

Santa Cruz Valley — Earliest Spanish settlement 5 

Santa Fe — On Battalion route 9, 10, 12 

303 



San Xavier — Early mission in southern Arizona 5 

Savoia (N. M.)— Est. 188 

Savoietta (N. M.)— Est. 188 

Scanlon's Ferry — View 133 

Schools— Gila Normal College, Thatcher 264-65, photo. 245, St. Johns 

Academy, St. Johns 265, photo. 181, Snowflake Academy 265, photos. 

(old and new) 197, Academy at Colonia Juarez 269 
Shivwits Indians — Whole tribe baptized 67, in council with Powell and 

Hamblin 74, photo. 117 
Showlow — Won in a card game 168, settlement 169 
Shumway— Est. 167-68, view 173 
Shumway, Chas. — Salt Lake Pioneer 106, leader in Nauvoo exodus, 

resident of Shumway, death 167-68, photo. 188 
Simonsville — Muddy settlement 108, 118 
Sirrine, Geo. W. — Brooklyn pioneer 40, at San Bernardino, carriedfgold 

payment 46, developed coal 47, at founding of Mesa 212, Church 

officer 220, photo. 213 
Skinner, G. W. — Gila River pioneer 147, 246 
Smallpox — Brought to L. Colorado 152 
Smith, Lt. A. J. — Battalion officer 11-12, 15, army record 32 
Smith, Azariah — Gold discoverer 44, photo. 20 
Smith, Geo. A. — Account of Tuba's visit 81, in Arizona 106, on the 

Muddy 120 
Smith, Geo. A. Jr.— Killed by Navajos 66, photo. 292 
Smith, J. E. — With Hamblin to Navajo 84 
Smith, Jedediah — Early trapper 54 
Smith, Jesse N. — Location at Snowflake 165, President of Eastern 

Arizona and Snowflake Stakes 196, railroad contracts 192-4, photo. 

196 
Smith, Joseph — Assassination of 19, photo. 61 
Smith, Joseph F.— At St. David 236, photo. 61 
Smith, Lot— Battalion member 25, 37, remained in California 27, head 

of Sunset party 138, killed by Indians 159-60, President of L. Colorado 

Stake 195, photos. 21, 196 
Smith, Samuel F. — President Snowflake Stake 196, photo. 196 
Smith, Thos. S. — In charge of first Muddy migration 118 
Smithville— Est. 244-45 

Smoot, W. C. A. — Salt Lake and Las Vegas Pioneer 105-06 
Snow, Erastus— Visited Arizona settlements 87, 106, 175, 199, 209, 220, 

236, 244, named Fredonia 99, conference with Paiutes 108-09, pro- 
moted cotton factory at St. George 120, selected site of Snowflake 

164, photo. 164 
Snow, Erastus B. — Description of ice bridge at Lee's Ferry 95 
Snow, LeRoi C. — Assistance in this work iii 
Snow, Lorenzo — Reference to Brannan 42-3, founded United Order at 

Brigham City, Utah, 130-31, photo. 61 
Snowflake — Cooperative store 134, est., naming, early experiences 

164-65, photos, of Academy 197 
Snowflake Stake— Est. 196 
Solomon, I. E.— In Gila Valley 242-44, 253 
Solomon, W. H — Clerk of 1874 Blythe exp. 137 
Southeastern Arizona — Map 243 
Spaneshanks — Navajo Chief 72 
Spanish Trail — Route of 53-54, map 51, use of eastern end 140 

304 



Springerville — Est. 184-85 

Standage, Henry— Journal of Battalion march 20-21, 36, Battalion 
experiences 37, settler at Alma 218, photo. 28 

Stanislaus City — Early California colony 41 

Stanton Expedition — Down Colorado r. 94 

Steele, Geo. — Battalion member 37, photo. 28 

Steele, John — Battalion member 37, in Arizona 106, photo. 29 

Stephens, Alexander — Gold discoverer 44 

Stewart, Isaac J. — Photo. 205 

Stewart, Jas. Z. — In southern Arizona 197-201, photos. 205 

Stewart, Levi — At Moccasin Springs 97 

Stoneman, Lt. Geo. — Battalion quartermaster 12, recognition of service 
15, record of 32-3 

Stone's Ferry — On Colorado r. 97, 203 

St. David— Est. 235 

St. George — Cotton factory 120, claimed by Arizona 124 

St. Johns— Made county seat of Apache Co. 165, est. 177, Barth 
ownership 178, sold to Mormons 179, townsite est., first newspaper 
180, street battle, killing of Nathan C. Tenney 180-81, land title 
dispute 181, irrigation difficulties 182, state aids dam construction 
182, grasshopper plague 191, photo, first school 180, photo. Stake 
Academy 181, early view 181 

St. Johns Stake— Est. 196 

St. Joseph (Nev.) — Mormon settlement 118, damaged by fire 119 

St Joseph (Ariz.)— Formerly Allen's Camp, naming, est. 140, view of 
dam 141, photo, of pioneer group 173 

St. Joseph Stake— Creation 260-61, 263 

St. Thomas (Nev.)— Est. 118, 123 

Summary of Subjects — v-ix 

Sunset— Est. 138, 140, 142, 145, abandonment 142-43 

Sutter's Fort— Gold disc. 5, Batt. members at 28, 43 



Taylor — On L. Colorado, est., abandoned 148 

Taylor— On Silver Creek, est. 166-67 

Taylor, President John— Introduction to Tyler's Battalion history 19 

directed est. of Arizona Stakes 195, visited Arizona 237, death 238' 

Mexican trip 267, photo. 61 
Teeples, Wm. R— Photo. 260, photo, of home 244 
Teeples, Mrs. W. R.— Frontier experiences 252, photo. 261 
Telegraph — First in Arizona 98-99 
Tempe — Johnson party arr., removal to Nephi 219 
Temple— Arizona, at Mesa, other Temples of the Church 222, photo. 

Tenney, Ammon M.— First visit to Hopi 63, fight with Navajos 71, in 
Powell party 76, account of great council with Indians 76-77, with 
Hambhn to Oraibi 86, at Las Vegas 108, on site of Woodruff 161, 
purchase of St. Johns 179, at Zuni 189, railroad contracts 192, with 
first Jones exp. 197-99, photo. 69 

Tenney, Nathan C— Fight with Navajos 71, killed at St. Johns 181, 
photo. 293 

Terry, George— In second Mexican exp. 199, photo. 205 

Thatcher, Moses — In Mexico 266 

305 



Thatcher— Est. 249, 262, photo, normal college 245 

Thomas, Camp — In Gila Valley 251 

Thompson, Samuel — Battalion member 37, photo. 28 

Thurston, Frank — Killed by Apaches 254 

To-ish-obe— Paiute Chief 108 

Tombstone — Mining history 238-40 

Tonto Basin — Settlement 173-74, abandonment authorized 176 

Tragedies of the Frontier — List of Latter-day Saints killed by Indians 

or outlaws 291-92 
Trejo, M. G.— Spanish missionary 197-201, photo. 205 
Trueworthy, Thos. E. — Early Colorado r. pilot 111-12, steamboat trip 

up Colorado r. 115 
Trumbull, Mount — Indian council 74, sawmill to Arizona 155 
Tuba— Oraibi chief, with Hamblin to Utah 80, shows sacred stone 

81, 82, returns to Oraibi 87, at Tuba City 159 
Tuba City— Est. 158, woolen factory 159, killing of Lot Smith 159-60, 

sold to government 161 
Tubac — Map 37, Mormon colony 5-6, 56-7, visited by second Mexican 

exp. 199 
Tucson — Settlement 5, taking of by Battalion 10, Standage reference 21 
Tumacacori — Est. of mission 5 
Tyler, Daniel— Battalion history 18-19, 28 
Tyler, Frank N— Photo. 260 

U 

Udall, D. K.— Arr. at St. Johns 179-80, President St. Johns Stake 196, 

photo, first home 180, photo. 196 
United Order — Est. in Muddy settlements 119, development 130-34, 

not a general Church movement 132, in Lehi 133, on L. Colorado r. 

144-46, at Woodruff 162 
Utah — Creation of Territory 52, seeks land north of Colorado r. 100 
Utah, Camp — See Lehi 
Utahville— See Lehi 
Ute Ford — See Crossing of the Fathers 



Vado de los Padres — See Crossing of the Fathers 

Virden— Est. 250 

Virgin River — Settlements on 6, 117, 129 

W 

Wallapai Indians — Visited Muddy Valley 110 

Walnut Grove— Settled 184 

Walpi — Hopi village, view 108 

Weaver, Pauline — Principal guide to Battalion, gold discoveries, death 

34 
Wells, Daniel H— Visited Arizona settlements 86-87, on L. Colorado 

r. 141, photo. 204 
Welsh — Legend of the Hopi 63-65 
West Point— Muddy settlement 101, 118 
Wham robbery — Near Gila settlements 255 

306 



Whipple — Expedition 104 

Whitmore, Dr. Jas. M. — At founding of Callville, killed by Indians 72, 

at Pipe Springs 98, with Anson Call on Colorado r. 114, photo. 292 
Wilford — Mountain settlement 155 
Winsor, A. P. — At Pipe Springs 98 
Winsor Castle — Pipe Springs 98, photo. 100 
Woodruff — Est. 161, irrigation 162, view 141 
Woodruff, Wilford — In Arizona 106, in northeastern Arizona 162-3, 

photo. 61 
Woods, J. A. — Early teacher 146 
Woolen Factory— At Tuba City 159, photo. 149 
Wright Brothers — Killed by Apaches 254, photos. 292 
Wyoming — First Mormon settlement 5 



Yerba Buena — Early Spanish name of San Francisco 38 

Young, Brigham — Arr. Salt Lake 4, authorized "Brooklyn" exp. 38, 
extended Church influence southward, San Bernardino colonization 
44-5, conception of Deseret, first governor of Deseret 52, photo. 61, 
sent party to investigate Welsh legend 63, sent Hamblin to Indians 65, 
death 87, ordained Hamblin as Apostle to the Lamanites 87, bought 
Whitmore estate 98, detailed missionaries to Las Vegas 105, visit in 
1870 to Muddy section and Paria 120, directed first L. Colorado exp. 
135, order for Blythe 1874 exp. 137, photo, with party 116, received 
report of Jones party 199, directed exploration of Sonora 200, plans 
for Mexican settlement 201-203, Arizona Temple idea 223 

Young, John R. — Sent to rescue missionaries 86 

Young, John W. — Led party of southern settlers 95, at Holbrook 133-34, 
directed occupation of LeRoux Spring 152, Tuba City woolen factory 
159, railroad contracts 192 

Young, John Wm. — At Hopi 65 

Young, Joseph W. — Estimate of Paiutes 109 

Yuma Indians — Colorado r. deck hands 112 



Zodiac — Settlement in Texas 58 
Zuni Indians — Welsh legend 64-65 



307 



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